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GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 











A Garden of Perennials 











































Copyrights 19 3 2 
Mrs. Gross R. Scruggs 









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* * 


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©CIA 58554 

deg 27 1932 


To that 

group of loyal friends 
whose generous sharing of 
valuable truths has brought 
into being these practical 
suggestions for 'Better 
(gardening 






































































































































































































































































































































































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CONTENTS 


Page 

Acknowledgments ---------- - ix 

The Conflict of the Winds - -- -- -- -- 1 

Editors 

Consider the Soil - -- -- -- -- -- 3 

Information furnished by Beulah D. Hughes 
and Government and States’ Bulletins, Etc. 

Creating Beautiful Surroundings - -- -- -- 17 

Editors 

The Green Frame of the Garden - -- -- -- - 23 

Louise Belsterling 

Native Shrubs - -- -- -- -- - 33 

Anna Hearne Newbury 

Hosts of Gay Flowering Plants - -- -- -- - 39 

Valerie Schoellkopf Moore 

Chrysanthemums - -- -- -- -- - 48 

Minnie L. Marcus 

Acid-Loving Plants - -- -- -- -- 53 

Editors 

Annuals for a Season - -- -- -- -- 55 

Editors 

Vines and Trailing Plants - - - - - - - 59 

Editors 

Southwestern Native Plants - - - - - - - 65 

Editors 

Native Plants - -- -- -- -- - 7 0 

Anna Hearne Newbury 

Color—the Secret of Charm -------- - 75 

Margaret and Marian Price Scruggs 

Propagation - -- -- -- -- -- - 85 

Leda Stimson Doolittle and Marion Doolittle Potts 

Garden Secrets - -- -- -- -- - 95 

Editors 

vii 


















Vlll 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Effect of Light on Vegetation - 99 

Persis S. Crocker 

A Garden of Bulbs - -- -- -- -- - 105 

Editors 

Spring-flowering Bulbs - - - - - - - - - - 108 

Frost Roane Price 

The Lily — The Iris — The Rose.115 

Editors 

Lilly Culture - -- -- -- -- -- - 120 

Information furnished by Pearl Van Horn Stuart 

Some Old-fashioned Favorites - - - - - - - - 125 

Editors 

Iris.-.131 

Marian Price Scruggs 

Iris for Trial in the Southwest - - - - - - - - 141 

John C. Wister 

Roses - -- -- -- -- ---- - 149 

Virginia Shumate Loomis 

A Cycle of Continuous Bloom - - - - - - - - 176 

Stella Hutcheson Dabney 

Native Plants that Charm and Heal - - - - - - - 185 

Mary Daggett Lake 

Desert Plants - -- -- -- -- -- 189 

Editors 

The Semi-Dry Garden - -- -- -- -- -193 

Margaret Scruggs 

Hillside Gardens - -- -- -- -- -- 200 

Margaret Scruggs 

Where the Sun Rarely Shines - - - - - - - - 205 

Marian Price Scruggs 

Pools. ---- - 208 

Margaret Scruggs 

Combating Plant Enemies - - - - - - - - - 215 

Marian Price Scruggs 

Remedies - - - - - - - - - - 217 

Dorothy Doran Walker 

Formulas for Sprays—Selected - - - - - - - 219 

Editors 





















LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Frontispiece—A Garden of Perennials 

Design for a Perennial Garden ------ Facing 3 9 

Telling the Time with Flowers ------ Facing 104 

Detail from Frontispiece in Garden Book of 1656 - - - - 130 

Plan of a Rose Garden - -- -- -- - Facing 147 

A Spring Garden - -- -- -- -- Facing 176 

Illustrating planting for continuous bloom 

A Summer Garden -------- - Facing 184 

Illustrating planting for continuous bloom 

A Fall Garden --------- - Facing 193 

Illustrating planting for continuous bloom 


IX 






ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


it is surprising how few books or articles are available for 
j( reference and study on the propagation and cultivation of 
native , or foreign, plants in the Southwest. Recognizing this 
IP fact, a questionnaire was sent to a large number of Garden 
Hr Club members, and other experienced gardeners, who, by liv¬ 
ing with and learning the needs of their plants, were peculiarly 
qualified to share their knowledge. Because of the quantity of 
material received thru their generous response, it was found impos¬ 
sible to note and give credit for each specific bit of information, 
yet all have been incorporated into the composite whole. Each 
chapter contains a contribution from an experienced grower to¬ 
gether with some additional notes by the Editors. 

Special thanks are extended Hon. Hatton Sumner for enlisting 
the co-operation of the United States Department of Agriculture, 
from whom was received a quantity of valuable scientific data. 

The co-operation and assistance given, also, by the staff of the 
Texas Agricultural and Mechanical College; S. H. Yarnell, Chief of 
Division of Horticulture; A. B. Conner, Director of Texas Agri¬ 
cultural Experimental Station; N. M. McGinnis; C. 

E. Seicke, Director; R. F. Balthis, Assistant Texas 
Forestry Service; F. M. Hensel, Head of Landscape 
Department; J. J. Taubenhaus, Chief, Division of 
Plant Pathology; R. H. Stansel, Angleton; John J. 

Bayless, Balmorhea; H. F. Morris, Nacogdoches; D. 

L. Jones, Lubbock; E. Mortensen, Winterhaven; and 
those connected with the Oklahoma Agricultural and 
Mechanical College, Dr. H. J. Harper, Department of 
Soils; Prof. Frank B. Cross, Department of Horticul¬ 
ture; H. I. Featherly, Department of Botany; George ( 




XI 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


Merrill, Department of Horticulture; Sam Smith; Franklin J. 
Reudel, Superintendent of Greenhouses; Harry Coke; Mrs. L. A. 
Cleverdon; and to Prof. Adlai Feather of New Mexico State College 
(Mesila Valley), and Mrs. Gertrude Howells—has been invaluable 
They have not only given of their personal knowledge and encour¬ 
agement, but have granted us the privilege of quoting from their 
publications. 

The articles contributed by Mr. John C. Wister and Mrs. Wm. 
Crocker will be of special interest because of their accurate knowl¬ 
edge of all that is new in the plant world thru affiliations with 
experimental research. 

Attention is called to the unusual feature—distinctly unique, 
not found elsewhere—contributed by Mrs. Lee Newbury, that of 
discriminatingly selecting and describing those NATIVE plants of 
definite garden value, that are listed by Commercial Growers. 

“Gardening in the Southwest” is most fortunate, also, to include 
in its pages the graphic account of the cultivation of Lilies by 
Mrs. George M. Stuart, as her untimely death occurred soon after 
her notes were written. Her experience is of special value because 
her deep love of flowers engendered an intimate, intelligent obser¬ 
vation of their individual requirements. 

Thanks are extended to the following who so promptly answered 
the questionnaire: 

AMARILLO—Mrs. Tabor, Mrs. L. A. Wells, Lahay White, Mr. T. M. Robertson. 

ARLINGTON—Mrs. J. D. Faulkner, Mrs. C. B. Snyder. 

AUSTIN—Mrs. O. O. Norwood, Mrs. M. S. Dickerson, Mrs. J. Frank Dobie, Mr. 
J. M. Ramsey, Mr. B. C. Tharp, Mrs. S. F. Smith. 

BEAUMONT—Mr. W. Gunter. 

BRADY—Brady Garden Club Members, Mrs. S. W. Hughes, President. 

BROWN WOOD—Mrs. H. H. Negus, Mrs. R. M. Ramsey. 

BRYAN—C. N. Wyatt, J. W. Westbrook. 

CARTHAGE—Carthage Circulating Book Club, sent in by Mrs. V. D. Hooker, 
Mrs. W. W. Hester. 

CHILDRESS—Mrs. W. E. Davis, Mrs. O. S. Barnett, Mrs. John Czewski. 

CISCO—Cisco Garden Club. 

COMANCHE—Mrs. J. B. Chilton. 

COMMERCE—Mrs. W. B. Dejarnett, Mrs. B. P. Bingham, Mr. Rixhead, Agricul¬ 
tural Department, East Texas Teachers’ College. 

DALLAS—Mrs. J. H. Simpson. 


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 


Xll 


DENISON—Mrs. George O. Morgan. 

DENTON—Mr. Thos. B. Foster. 

EL PASO—Mr. H. H. Reeves, T. J. Vinson. 

FORT WORTH—Mrs. Kitty Barry Crawford, Mrs. B. C. Rhone, Jr., Mrs. Roy 
Vaughan, Mrs. James T. Taylor, Mrs. Willard Burton, Mrs. E. P. Van Zandt. 
GARLAND—Mrs. B. N. Freeman. 

LONGVIEW—Miss Dollie Northcutt, Mrs. J. T. Stickey. 

LUBBOCK—Mrs. A. B. Cunningham, Mr. Chas. S. Mahoney, Chief of Department 
of Horticulture, Texas Technological College ; Mr. Cyrus E. Russell. 
McKINNEY—Mrs. J. L. Lovejoy, Mrs. Joe W. Largent. 

PARIS—Mrs. J. C. Wooten, Mrs. Joe Gillespie, Mrs. Yost, Mrs. J. T. Simmons, 
Mrs. H. C. Armstrong, Mrs. Floyd, Mrs. Boyd, Mrs. Scott Galbreath, Mrs. 
Golden Alexander, Mrs. F. D. Mallory, Mrs. E. B. Lowery. 

STEPHENVILLE—Mr. H. M. Brundus, Professor of Horticulture, Tarleton College. 
TEMPLE—Mrs. S. E. Roddy, Mrs. Jackson, Mrs. J. E. Jackson, Mrs. J. E. Robert¬ 
son, Mrs. W. E. Hume, Mrs. C. Cox, Mrs. Geo. W. Owens, Mrs. Spencer. 
TYLER—Mrs. Walter Connally, Mrs. Elizabeth Potter, Mrs. W. S. Hanley, Mrs. 
A. L. Thompson. 

WACO—Mrs. W. M. Kelley, Mrs. E. B. Richie. 

WICHITA FALLS—Mrs. Orville Bullington, Mrs. S. P. Timberlake, Mrs. Horace 
Robbins, Mrs. E. B. Hayne, Mrs. T. O. Shappell, Mrs. Curtis Atkison, Mrs. 
Guy Rogers, Mrs. B. L. Fain, Mrs. C. J. Bardard, Mr. N. H. Downing, Mr. 
Edwin C. Bebb. 



The Conflict of the Winds 


Our Great Southwest —that section of this vast 
f country that extends down to the Gulf and to the very bor¬ 
ders of Old Mexico—possesses greater variety of climate and 
vegetation than has any similar area of this United States. From 


the lowlands of the semi-tropics to the foothills of the Rockies 


is little more than a day’s journey. The trail passes quickly from 


the land of the Oleander and the Orange trees—across the flower- 


studded prairies—thru the dry plains, covered with strange plants, 
and stunted trees—on to the mountainous districts where cacti and 
alpine plants all but mingle together. 

Here the winds play an important part. The soft moist breezes from 
the Gulf are counterbalanced by the icy blizzards from the Rockies, 
intermingled with the fierce heat-blasts from the arid desert regions. 
Each controls a special section, yet wields its influence over all. 

Extending northward from the Gulf and the Rio Grande, where 
semi-tropic plants predominate, every hundred mil^ 
a marked change in climate and vegetation is 
encountered. Noticeably distinct groups of 
plants grow in each well-defined belt. In addi¬ 
tion to climatic variabilities, definite character¬ 
istics have been developed by the effect of soil, a. 
tude, and general topography of the land. Spec 
families are to be found, also, in the various altituc 
for some demand mountain peaks or rocky hillsic 
while still others will grow only in woods or par 
shade, in swamps or on the banks of streams. Howe^s 
the greater majority of these garden plants, gv 
proper protection in location and exposure, wil 


1 





2 


THE CONFLICT OF THE WINDS 


thrive in any soil in the Southwest, that has been brought to the 
desired garden texture, since the predominant type of our soil 
is non-acid. 

As north-central Texas is more nearly the "Hub” of the area 
that the material in this book covers, the time for planting and 
for blooming is computed from that section. There seems to be 
from one to two weeks difference in plant development in every 
one hundred miles. Taking this as a guide, one can safely estimate 
and plan accordingly. 

Traveling eastward from our established center, there is a per¬ 
ceptible change in the soil, and consequently in the vegetation, 
the alkaline (limestone) soil shifting to neutral, then growing 
more acid in intensity as the Louisiana border is reached. Hence 
the plants that can be grown in Louisiana practically coincide with 
those advised for East Texas, for the temperature is about the same. 

The soil in Oklahoma and Arkansas is not, on the whole, as 
acid as Louisiana, being more nearly neutral, therefore in general 
the extreme acid-loving plants cannot be recommended. 

Parts of West Texas and Oklahoma, and most of New Mexico 
suffer from extremes of heat and cold—sudden changes—and very 
high winds. The extraordinary success of Gardeners in overcom¬ 
ing these difficulties in this region is practically unparalleled in the 
history of garden making. 


Consider the Soil 

secret of success in a garden lies in the soil. It must 
be loose enough not to crowd the small rootlets and to allow 
free circulation of water and air, yet firm enough to hold 
sufficient moisture for their nourishment—not soggy, but well- 
drained and containing in correct proportion those chemical ingre¬ 
dients required for plant growth—Nitrogen, Potash and Phos¬ 
phorus. 

I. TEXTURE AND STRUCTURE OF SOIL 

Geologists have divided soil into several classes identified by 
the size of the particles of decomposed mineral or vegetable mat¬ 
ter of which they are formed, sand, clay, adobe, calcareous or 
limestone and silt or alluvial soil, being of the mineral group, 
while peat and leaf mold (which embody strictly decomposed 
vegetation) represent the vegetable formation and humus is a 
combination of both decomposed vegetation and minerals, in 
which the former predominates, affected by the circulation of air 
through it, together with absorption of certain life-giving proper¬ 
ties derived from the elements. Every one of these classes may be 
found in some section of the great Southwest. 



SAND 

Sand, which is generally disintegrated quartz, is the coarsest of 
all soils. The looseness of its particles allows water to pass through 


Ideal Soil 


Classes 


3 





4 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


See Dots on 
Soil Map 
( Coast-Line 
Mostly) 


Value 


See Tiny 
Circles on 
Soil Map 
(East Texas, 
La., Ark., 
and Eastern 
Oklahoma) 


See Dashes 
on Soil 
Map 


them readily so that most of its plant food is thus carried away. It 
should be mixed with clay to bind its particles together and leaf- 
mold or humus to hold moisture and supply in soluble form the 
food qualities inherent in it, needing sometimes also a complete 
chemical fertilizer that is a well-balanced food ration. The finer 
the grains of the sand, the better is the garden loam that is formed 
from it. 

The chief value of sand is that its large particles hold that 
warmth so necessary both to plant germination and growth and 
enables the fertilizers to give up readily those ingredients required 
for plantfood. Care should be taken to add fertilizer and manures 
to sand only at the time they will be needed by the plant, other¬ 
wise much of their valuable contents may be lost. 

CLAY 

Clay, whose particles are fine and smooth to the touch and form 
a compact mass (sticky when wet) too close to admit free circu¬ 
lation of water and air, must have sufficient sand to separate its 
particles and humus to bring it to that texture needed for an ideal 
garden loam. 

In preparing a garden in clay soil, two points should be noted: 
first, that it should not be disturbed while wet, and second, that 
good underdrainage adds remarkably to its productivity, for clay 
contains a high degree of plant food, notably potash. When ferti¬ 
lizers are added to it, use those in which nitrogen and phosphorus 
predominate. 

SILT 

Silt is coarser in texture than clay and finer than sand. It is 
exceedingly rich in plant-food and mixes well with humus. It is 
also useful as a binder for sand and clay. Often it is what is also 
termed "Alluvial Soil”. Alluvial soil is that finely-ground deposit, 
or residue, which is transported by rivers and streams, many times 
to great distances. The widest belt in the Southwest is located along 
the Rio Grande Basin. 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


5 


ADOBE 


Adobe soil, being composed largely of alluvial or playa clay 
(accumulations by deposit on broad, level spots in arid or desert 
regions) and silt with some sand, the requirements for clay soil 
apply to this type also with the additional caution that though 
high in potential productivity, it needs careful handling. Irriga¬ 
tion has been found to be the best method of supplying moisture 
where sufficient quantities of humus and sand have been added 
to release the fertility within this very fine textured type of soil. 

The extreme compactness of its particles renders it very sticky 
when wet and hard enough when dry to be used as material for 
constructing buildings. 

Sifted coal ashes or wood ashes, together with straw and manure 
—sand, humus and sawdust—will render an adobe soil perfect in 
texture for garden loam, which texture may be maintained large¬ 
ly by deep tillage, good drainage and adequate moisture. 

A. Desert Soil is extremely rich in plant food and is more or 
less alkaline (generally lying on clay subsoils). It demands humus 
and irrigation to release its valuable content. By tillage or deep 
mulches the necessary moisture is conserved to make this vast semi- 
arid plains country yield its wealth in productivity. 

B. Rolling Plains Soil is similar to the desert soil in character, 
yet differs in that its fine sandy or clay loams are more friable 
and are deeper and darker in color. Both respond to tillage and the 
addition of humus and sufficient moisture during the plant’s grow¬ 
ing season. A distinct group of plants thrive in these regions. 

C. The Edwards Plateau contains little tillable soil because it 
is shallow, stoney land, yet the soil, where of sufficient depth to 
sustain vegetation is mostly dark and calcareous, resting on lime¬ 


See Tiny 
Arrowheads 
on Soil Map 
(West Texas, 
Western 
Oklahoma 
and Eastern 
New 
Mexico) 


See Crosses 
on Soil Map 


See 

Combination 
of Symbols 
on the Soil 
Map 



stone. 

D. Western New Mexico contains soil similar in character to 
Eastern Arizona — largely 
alkaline, adobe sands, while 
the mountainous regions dif¬ 
fer but slightly in soil-texture, 



6 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


See Tiny 
Squares on 
Soil Map 


Symbols c 
Soil Map 
Combine 


differentiation being mostly in the shifting extremes in tempera¬ 
ture every twenty-four hours. 

CALCAREOUS 

The calcareous, or disintegrated limestone, soils of the central 
section of the Southwest, have had very little written about them. 
They are extremely rich, having supported a series of crops year 
after year for many years, without the need of fertilization nor 
any reduction in productiveness. 

Being “derived through the disintegration of the underlying 
beds of highly calcareous rocks, these strata contain much lime 
carbonate. (P. 1323)*. The accumulation of decayed vegetable- 
matter under the prevailing humid conditions and in the pres¬ 
ence of lime carbonate has caused the surface soil of the greater 
part of these prairie lands to have a decidedly dark or black color. 
This type is locally called 'black, waxy land’.” (P. 1227.)* 

Often “large (P. 1227)* deep cracks form in this soil in very 
dry weather. ,, Another “characteristic is, this soil will crumble 
down on drying to a mass of small aggregates . . . Even clods 
turned up when wet crumble at the first rain and assume a desir¬ 
able tilth. Extending (P. 1231)* back from the stream valleys the 
depth of the soil increases and the quantity of rock fragments on 
the surface decreases. The surface soil of many acres is strewn 
with fragments of the parent rock.” These “weather rapidly into 
soil.” This soil varies in productivity according to the depth of 
material over the basic chalk or limestone rock.”* Being more or 
less clayey in texture, the addition of humus, leaf-mold and sand is 
necessary to render it more friable under all conditions. It will then 
grow any type of plant except those demanding a high degree 
of acidity (see page 53). 

A. Central Oklahoma contains black, heavy soil, calcareous 
in the main and yet not as rich nor as deep as the “black-waxy” 
lands. The chief deficiency of this soil is phosphorus. Sudden varia¬ 
tions in temperature in winter, coupled with the hot winds of sum¬ 
mer, are the chief problems to be met to secure successful garden- 

* "Soil Survey’’—Texas A. & M.—William Carter—1924. 



CONSIDER THE SOIL 


7 


ing. Choice of plants, therefore, that are adapted to these con¬ 
ditions obviates this difficulty. 


COMBINATIONS OF SOILS 


Where one does not find soil pure in type, it is usually inter¬ 
mingled in varying proportions, the name given to a specific mix¬ 
ture being designated by the name of the predominating class or 



A Combi¬ 
nation of the 
Symbols on 
Soil Map 


type—clayey-sand, sandy-clay, etc. For example, surrounding the 
“black, waxy belt” to the East, North and West is a sandy-clay 
belt, part of which rests in a limestone or other heavy subsoil, the 
other part on a clay subsoil. 


SUBSOIL VS. TOPSOIL 

Because of its lack of decomposed vegetation, the subsoil has 
only potential value for plant growth. It is, therefore, not as advis¬ 
able to use as topsoil. Topsoil is usually much darker in color than 
the subsoil that lies in varying depths beneath it. This coloring is 
caused by the accumulation of decayed vegetable matter (humus, 
which is more readily available to plants for food, being mostly 
decomposed leaves, roots and stalks). The darker the soil the 
richer it is in plant food, and because of this richness (being an 
ideal basis for a productive garden loam) in preparing a bed for a 
flower garden, the topsoil should be carefully separated from the 
paler subsoil and piled to one side that none of it may be lost. 
After a portion of the subsoil has been removed and the remainder 
well pulverized and brought to productive consistency (by mix¬ 
ing manures, sandy-loam or whatever other ingredient it lacks) 
then the topsoil may be added and forked well into the bed. 



8 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Moisture in 
Soil 


Capillary 
Movement 
from the 
Water Table 


Mulches 


HOW PLANTS EAT 

Since only a small percentage of a plant’s food is derived from 
the earth (approximately two per cent only) the major part 
being assimilated from the elements (water, heat, sun and air) it 
is very essential that correct soil conditions be maintained. An 
abundance of strength-giving properties may be present in the 
soil, yet not available for the plant’s use until they have been put 
into soluble form or released by the chemical action of organic 
matter. This latter is largely contributed by the use of barnyard 
manures, leguminous green manures, and commercially prepared 
fertilizers. 

MOISTURE 

The fertility of the soil is controlled to a great extent, also, by 
the amount of moisture it is capable of retaining, which, in turn, 
depends greatly on the composition and texture of the soil, itself, 
for each of its component grain-particles is, under usual circum¬ 
stances that support growth of vegetation, surrounded by a thin 
film of moisture. The larger these particles are, the less water they 
will retain, because the nature of loose soil does not admit of free¬ 
dom of capillary movement. 

Underlying almost all soils at varying depths is an accumulation 
of water, known as the "water-table”. From this reservoir an 
attraction of the film-water around the grain-particles of soil 
draws moisture up toward the surface, known as "capillary move¬ 
ment”. When the ground is left undisturbed, little tubes or "water- 
channels” are created, whereby moisture is the more rapidly 
brought to the surface and exhausted than when the soil is broken 
up by tillage (or frequent stirrings) which prevent these channels 
from forming. 

Chief among the other suggested methods for the conservation 
of moisture is mulching or surface covering with grass clippings 
that contain no grass-seed, straw, leaves, peat-moss, paper, saw¬ 
dust, etc., or in some cases, a surface-layer (from two to five 
inches) of very dry soil will act as a blanket to hold in the mois- 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


9 


ture. The depth of a mulch varies with the climatic conditions to 
be met. Yet, since it must be perfectly dry to be effective, usually 
the deeper it is, the greater will be its usefulness. In arid regions, 
mulching has been found to be most successful, although it is 
questioned whether mulches other than dry soil are advisable where 
the pill-bugs or sow-bugs are prevalent as it will afford a harbor 
for them. 


II. CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS 

CHEMICAL ANALYSIS 

No type of soil contains sufficient nourishment to continue to 
sustain a large group of plants. Therefore, additional nutriment 
must be supplied, for plants demand quantities of nitrogen, phos¬ 
phorus and potash for perfection of development. 

Nitrogen: 

Nitrogen is needed to produce color and brilliance in fruit 
and flowers, as well as aid in developing leaf and stem-growth, 
being taken up by the plant in its early stages of growth. Cotton¬ 
seed meal, dried blood, nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia 
help to supply sufficient nitrogen to plants. 

Phosphorus: 

Phosphorus (or phosphoric acid) supplies those qualities that 
assist in the maturing of seed, in the development of root-growth 
and in perfection of flower, giving to the plants power to counter¬ 
act that weakening tendency toward contracting disease which is 
caused by nitrogen, and being absorbed by the plants about uni¬ 
formly during the period of their active growth. Its natural source 
is to be formed in bonemeal and the other mineral phosphates. 

Potash: 

Potash helps phosphoric acid in making plants disease-resistant 
and supplies that which bring them to normal maturity, produc¬ 
ing larger, more vigorous plants. It can be supplied by hardwood 


10 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


ashes, or from various potassium salts, obtainable through com¬ 
mercial fertilizers. 

Sources: 

The chief sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash for plant 
food are to be found in the various kinds of manures and 
especially prepared chemical or commercial fertilizers. 

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 
I. Green Manures 

Books on soil deal largely with the use of green manures which 
consist of the growing of certain leguminous crops that, when 
plowed into the ground, furnish specific qualities to the soil. But 
the flower gardener has little opportunity of resorting to this 
means of fertilization, because of the desire to have the garden 
always beautiful, therefore objects to giving a whole season to 
replenishing the soil. 

II. Barnyard Manures 

In building up a soil to a desired condition, barnyard manure is 
of equal value in the garden as it is over large areas. It is considered 
of inestimable value because it contributes much more than just 
the chemicals it so generously supplies. Its decomposed vegetable 
matter adds all those good qualities desired from humus, making 
the soil mellow, helping it retain moisture and releasing those life- 
giving qualities that lie latent. 

1. Hot Manures: 

All barnyard manures are not alike in quality. Those that are 
classed as “hot manures”, which will burn the roots of young 
plants when fresh, must be used sparingly. It is best to allow them 
to decompose for at least six months befors using. 

a. Poultry: 

Of these, poultry manure is richest in nitrogen, but should be 
used with greatest care. Containing no straw or decomposed vege- 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


11 


table matter, wood ashes and sand added to it benefit the soil 
greatly when used judiciously. 

b. Horse: 

Horse manure is also hot. It is low in phosphorus, therefore 
commercial phosphates or bonemeal should be added, yet it ranks 
high in nitrogen. 

c. babbit: 

Rabbit manure is extremely high in all three chemicals neces¬ 
sary to plant growth. It is exceedingly hot, therefore demands the 
greatest care in using. 

2. Cool Manures: 

a. Cow and Pig Manures: 

Cow and pig manures are cool and are lower in nitrogen. They 
are especially desirable to use in sand, because their non-heating 
qualities are not detrimental to germinating seed. 

b. Sheep Manure: 

Sheep manure is one of the best barnyard manures to use be¬ 
cause it is cool and yet ranks next to poultry manure in its nitro¬ 
gen content. It, too, is low in phosphorus, therefore the addition 
of bonemeal makes it a more balanced plant food. 

3. Proportion to Use: 

Generally the required amount of barnyard manure to be 
forked into the garden soil may be estimated at one wheelbarrow 
load to every two square yards, or a three-inch depth forked in for 
three successive springs. 

III. Liquid Manure 

The most effective way of hastening and increasing a plant’s 
development is by the use of that concentrated plant-food known 
as "liquid manure”. This is made by suspending a sack of fresh 
or dried animal manure in a barrel or keg of water (which pref¬ 
erably has a spigot at the bottom). It is advisable to dilute this 
solution to the color of weak tea and apply it to the roots of the 
plants after they have been thoroughly watered. 


12 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Amount 
to Use 


Contents 


Formulas 


FERTILIZERS 

Many people advocate the use of commercial fertilizer because 
it does not introduce weeds, undesirable grasses, worms, etc., but in 
heavier soils it must have ground peat (or some similar loosening 
element) used in combination with it. However, where the soil has 
reached a desired tilth, commercial fertilizer can be of great value, 
although its benefits usually do not last more than a season. Gen¬ 
erally speaking, the amount to use is about one pound to every 
twenty square feet. 

All commercial fertilizers are composed of materials that con¬ 
tain varying portions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. To 
use them to the best advantage, the specific requirements of the 
soil to be enriched must be understood, that its deficiencies may 
be overcome. Treatises on soil give a number of interesting meth¬ 
ods of determining what is lacking, called "soil tests”, but a gen¬ 
eral knowledge of the character of the prevailing type of soil 
makes this rather difficult work usually unnecessary. 

Commercial fertilizers are sold under many trade names. The 
best grades state an analysis of the content formula on the out¬ 
side of the package, usually designated by a set of numerals thus, 
6:8:4 means there are six parts of nitrogen, eight parts of phos¬ 
phorus and four parts of potash (nitrogen, phosphorus and potash 
always being given in the order named) presenting at a glance 
the information desired. 

OKLAHOMA SOIL CONDITIONS 

"A very simple statement in re¬ 
gard to soil conditions in Oklaho¬ 
ma would be that in the east half 
of the state the major portion of 
the soils are deficient 
in phosphorus and this 
should be added to all 
soils in order to make 
conditions more favor- 




CONSIDER THE SOIL 


13 


able for the growth of plants. About thirty per cent of the soils in 
the eastern half of Oklahoma are very acid and if the plants which 
are being grown are lime-loving plants, success cannot be secured 
without the addition of lime to these acid soils. 

"If the phosphorus content of the soil is increased by fertiliza¬ 
tion, if lime is applied where it is needed, and if the organic mat¬ 
ter content of the soil is maintained by the use of cottonseed meal 
or well-rotted farm manures, the probability of plant-food becom¬ 
ing a limiting factor in the growth of plants is very unlikely to 
occur. A good complete fertilizer for plants in Oklahoma would 
be 4-8-6, or 4-12-4, which is commonly used on potatoes or truck 
crops. The rate of application of this material should be about one 
to two pounds per hundred square feet of soil. In case of shrubs 
where the area is usually irrigated, a handful for each plant will 
give very good results.” 

Horace J. Harper, 

Professor of Soils , Oklahoma A. M. College 
Stillwater, Oklahoma. 

IV. The Three Types of Soil 

All soils have been grouped under three large general classes, 
determined by whether the specific base is lime or its antithesis, 
acid, or a balance of the two. This latter is termed neutral soil and 
is best for most flowers and vegetables. The intensity of acidity or 
alkalinity (lime) depends on the character of the soil, from what 
kind of rock it is derived as well as its subsoil and its degree of 
friability. 

In order to determine exactly what is lacking, chemically, to 
insure productivity, a soil analysis by the litmus-paper test (see 
page 14), is often of great value. However, generally speaking, 
this is not necessary, except when one desires to grow a lime- 
loving plant in acid or neutral soil or vice versa (for in the classi- 


Neutral 

Soil 


Soil 

Analysis 


14 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Acid 

Localities 


Alkaline and 
Neutral 


fication of plant-life, there are many that demand a certain soil or 
will flourish only in one or the other of the three specific types). 

Acid soil is usually sandy loam, although the highest degree of 
acidity is to be found in those low lands that are often inundated. 
One of the chief agencies for overcoming this condition is the use 
of lime, the hydrated or burnt forms, obtainable at the building 
supply dealers, being the most convenient to use. 

In the major part of the Southwest there is little occasion to use 
lime, because the structural composition of most of the soil is large¬ 
ly decomposed limestone. Yet where drainage is poor and the soil 
soured, or on small areas where plants have been grown in pro¬ 
fusion and the soil made acid by the decomposed vegetation, lime 
can be used sparingly to correct this condition. 

Attention must be called to the fact that lime should never be 
used at the same time that intensive fertilizers or manures are 
employed. 


ACID SOIL BED-PREPARATION 

In heavily impregnated lime soil those plants that object to lime 
must have an area especially prepared for them. 

To prepare the ground and to prevent the seepage of water 
carrying lime from the surrounding earth into the acid-bed, line 
the bottom of the two-foot excavation with at least three inches 
of coal ashes and cinders and the walls with cement or bricks. Place 
over the cinders alternate layers of six inches of oak leaves and 
four inches of sand, leaving a layer of sand at the top. Over this 
scatter one-half pound of aluminum sulphate to each square yard. 
Keep wet until the leaves have rotted, stirring every two weeks, 
taking care not to disturb the cinders. After the mixture has re¬ 
mained several days, test the soil for acidity (by submerging a 
blue litmus paper in the bed for thirty minutes). If the paper 
turns red, it is the right degree for acid-loving plants. 

Another method is to place alternate layers of garden soil and 
hardwood sawdust and sand over the cinders, giving the same 
treatment as above. 


CONSIDER THE SOIL 


15 


The following proportion of fertilizers will be found correct for 


an acid bed: 

Cottonseed meal.10 pounds 

Rock phosphate, finely ground.4 pounds 

Sulphate of potash.2 pounds 

ACID WATER FORMULA 


Limestone water can be made acid by dissolving one heaping 
tablespoonful of aluminum sulphate or solution of tannic acid to 
one gallon of water, applying every two to three weeks, thoroughly 
saturating the ground. 

PREPARATION OF AREAS FOR PLANTING 

TRENCHING 

Many people have found that the preparation of a long border 
or other large space for planting is most easily accomplished by a 
method known as “trenching”. 

If underdrainage is necessary (as with clay and some of the 
heavier soils) the depth of the subsoil to be removed will be down 
to about five feet below the surface level and broken tile, brick, 
cinders or some such material be put in for drainage. However, if 
the area is well drained, the subsoil need only be excavated about 
two feet. 

The first step in trenching is to mark off the area to be prepared 
into sections—the most easily handled being two-foot sections— 
and remove the topsoil, placing it in a pile apart, because all of it 
is used in preparing a flower bed. 

If the subsoil thereby exposed is sand, remove some of it (about 
one-third) and add clay, humus or barnyard manure, forking all 
well into a loose texture. If it is clay (whether red, brown or 
black-waxy) it must be thoroughly broken up to a depth of 
three to five feet (dependent on drainage requirements), part re¬ 
moved and the remaining lightened with sand, sifted coal ashes and 
humus, forking the barnyard manure well into the mixture. If 


Fertilizer 
for Acid-Soil 
Bed 


Drainage 


Sections 


Treatment of 
Subsoil 




16 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


it is very stony, it must all be removed, and the correct mixture 
of sand, clay, humus and manure, so necessary to plant growth, 
be substituted. The amount of ingredients to be added varies with 
the texture of the subsoil, the desired tilth being comparable to 
the crumbly condition of a ball of earth, which if squeezed tightly 
while moist, will fall apart when released. 

When the subsoil has been thoroughly prepared, the next step' 
is carefully to pulverize the topsoil and enrich it by the addition 
of sufficient manure, sand, clay and humus to bring it to the stand- 
r 7p1oTt of arc j 0 £ good garden loam. As with the subsoil, this varies according 
to its general character and when correct will meet the require¬ 
ments for an ideal* soil. 


From Information Contributed by 


Beulah Hughes 


and 

Government and State Bidletins 
and Other Publications 


* See opening paragraph. 



Creating 


Surroundings 

as the careful selection of the proper design of 
setting displays to the fullest the peculiar 
charm of a gem, so harmonious planting creates ideal co-ordination 
between house and grounds. Our homes may be likened to jewels 
whose value is determined by perfection rather than by size, for 
some of the smallest are the dearest. There are a few whose outlines 
need only the simplest of design, while others will admit of more 
elaboration. Although each architectural style of house demands 
quite definite surroundings, yet all may be softened into an exqui¬ 
site picture when blended by greens and toned by splashes of col¬ 
orful flowers. 

Design in landscaping, presenting as it does both the simple and 
elaborate means for color expression, has been developed along two 
comprehensive, or general, lines—Formality and Informality—with 
particular reference to racial interpretations. These divisions are 
based largely on individual adaptation of life to climate and soil; 
falling readily into two main classes—those that are of geometrical 
precision, repetition, or design; or the simulation of a natural love¬ 
liness, which is apparently wholly unstudied. 

Just as each person differs from another, so does each race, or 
nation, and the gradual evolution of a typical architecture and 
treatment in the landscaping of their grounds, may be classified as 
racially decided and distinct. In past ages when law and order were 
non-existent, or lax, every man was forced to enclose against de¬ 
spoilers that which he treasured. Degrees of wealth determining the 




Selection 


Chief 
Divisions 
of Land¬ 
scaping 


Racial 

Interpre¬ 

tation 


17 



18 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Latin 


Anglo- 

Saxon 


America 


extent of his power to protect his possessions, the nature of his 
walled-in recreation spots varied in relative proportion. These 
earliest known gardens of Persia, China, and the Far East, were, 
of necessity, small plots of green, with a bit of shade (a fruit or 
nut-tree, or a vine-covered arbor) with a tiny pool or fountain; 
designed for meditation and relaxation. 

Adapting this idea from the Great Moguls of the East, Spain, 
Italy and France have elaborated on it, producing racial varia¬ 
tions of the theme. The Italian characteristic is few blossoms on 
their triple-terraced vistas which emphasize reflected beauty of 
many shades, together with diversity of texture and height, in 
dominant green, mirrored in still pools that are bordered with occa¬ 
sional statues and inviting walks to quiet nooks. France is more 
architecturally inclined, adding numerous rest, or summer houses, 
and a variety of arbors. Their plants are clipped and forced into 
unnatural shapes and their vistas are more studied; while the 
Spanish interpretation more nearly follows the Oriental, with 
potted, blooming plants about a pool within their walled enclos¬ 
ures. 

The Anglo-Saxon passion for freedom and intense feeling for 
color—born, possibly, of their reaction to the dreariness and strug¬ 
gle for brightness during long, cold, grey winters—is clearly dem¬ 
onstrated in their gardens. Theirs was not a need for the coolness of 
a shaded nook or relief for the eye from the intensity and bril¬ 
liance of copper-hot sky. So, the inclusion of gay flowers into the 
garden in quantity was introduced by them. With the gradual 
awakening of appreciation for the beauties of Nature’s garden, in 
comparatively modern times, the Oriental, conventional, or for¬ 
mal garden is being rivalled today by the naturalistic or informal 
garden. 

The underlying needs of individual temperament are being 
recognized, studied and met by adapting and combining ideas from 
East, West, North and South. In America a new type of garden is 
being evolved. It has been suggested that perhaps our contribution 
to the theme will be our interpretation of the hillside garden (a 


CREATING BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS 


19 


development which is distinctly ours) . . . down a gradual slope 
that has been planted to simulate Nature at her loveliest, one is 
lured to a pool, a sunken garden, or sometimes to a formal rose 
garden. 

In the strong yellow glow of our Southwestern sunlight, pour¬ 
ing over our rolling plains and hillsides in intensity for six to eight 
months of the year, the ideas of both the Orient and Europe must 
be altered and adapted to meet our needs. Our climatic range 
includes some of the features that both experience, which makes 
the designs of each peculiarly applicable to our requirements. We 
like the sense of geometric order which one gets from a formal 
design, yet the temper of our people—that all-pervading cordiality, 
hospitality and geniality—will not admit of stiffness. We merely 
insist on that appropriate arrangement of grounds to house which, 
like one’s clothes, must fit, be becoming and in style. 

To secure this there are several important factors that everyone 
must consider carefully. Certain physical conditions must be recog¬ 
nized to insure perfection of detail and successful results. Such 
vital though general questions as the range of the temperature 
(heat and cold); the amount of moisture (natural or artificial); 
the quality of the soil; the exposure of the location; and the con¬ 
tour of the land, must be known and intelligently studied. 

Everyone must cope with these essentials, yet each gardener’s 
problem is different, due to the fact that the combination of 
these five factors is infinitely varied. Therefore, no decided rules 
can be given, although certain specific directions may be stated, 
and attention be called to those established lines upon which the 
landscaping of a well-balanced, well-planned garden and grounds 
depend. 

Stress has too often been placed by landscape and garden ex¬ 
perts upon creating the garden itself an example of landscaping 
perfection, without enough thought having been paid to its specific 
place as merely a part of the whole picture of the buildings in 
relation to their surroundings. The design to be complete must 
present a pleasing effect when viewed on approaching the property, 


Southwest 


Physical 

Require¬ 

ments 


Information 

Needed 







20 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Appropriate 
Interpreta¬ 
tion of 
Buildings 
to Surround¬ 
ings 


Trees 


Shrubs 


Combina¬ 

tion 


yet offer small framed sketches from each of the various windows 
of the house. 

Much of the interrelationship of the house to the grounds and 
surroundings depends on the development of the natural lay of the 
land, and the utilization of whatever native growth there is on it. 
To this must be added those trees, shrubs and flowers which will 
satisfy its demands. Most enviable is that property which can boast 
large established trees, for these lend a charm nothing else can give. 
And yet even trees can be supplied, where desired, if one chooses 
wisely and has patience. 

Since a year lost in gardening can never be regained, it is wisest 
to follow a very definite plan of planting, taking care that in 
placing every tree and shrub, neither their shade nor their roots 
infringe on the flower garden; and choosing them for texture 
and color tone of leaf, in addition to variabilities in height and 
spread. 

Second in importance only to the trees are the shrubs. Of these 
a large increase in number and types has been contributed by the 
efforts of the late E. H. Wilson, famous horticulturalist, keeper of 
the Arnold Arboretum, who, during the last thirty years, has 
brought into the United States great quantities of valuable plants 
from foreign lands, many of which have proved especially adapt¬ 
able to the South. The variety and amazing range of choice offered 
by this large group of plants is most interesting. There are those 
which all during the spring and summer hold the admiration by 
their lovely flowers; yet most valuable indeed are those that keep 
their glossy green leaves during the winter or cheer with their 
brilliant berries and colorful stems. 

Shrubs are becoming more generally recognized, also, for the 
numerous uses to which they may be put. Together with running 
roses and perennials, they form a practically unchanging back¬ 
ground for a wide choice of colorful annuals, which may be 
varied each year in an unlimited number of combinations. Thus a 
cycle of blossoms paints ever new pictures against the sympathetic 
green of the background. 


CREATING BEAUTIFUL SURROUNDINGS 


21 


By judicious placing, shrubs may shut in a secluded nook of rare 
beauty and capture that elusive privacy so treasured, or they may 
create a vista. Besides being a decorative feature of a landscape 
plan, a vista, particularly a long vista, is one of the most restful 
things in nature. It is wise, however, to have some definite point of 
interest at the end of the view. This focal point is usually a trel- 
lised arbor, a gate, a seat, a wall fountain or some structural garden¬ 
furnishing, rustic or classic in design, the choice of which depends 
on whether formality or informality has been chosen to be stressed. 

If one has a Spanish hacienda, one’s grounds will generally be 
landscaped with a more or less geometrical precision of balance 
and counterbalance in accordance with the accepted Spanish 
method of treatment of grounds and gardens. But if one owns a 
cottage or bungalow, informality is often much the better taste, 
although it is not a requisite. Generally speaking, the plan of the 
flower garden should definitely conform to the architecture of 
the house, or be so screened from the buildings by plantings of 
hedges, as to present a complete picture within its own boundaries. 
The latter is especially true of an all-rose garden, which prac¬ 
tically demands formal design, irrespective of the treatment given 
the rest of the estate. 


Nooks and 
Vistas 


Balance 
and Good 
Taste 


Construct a miniature garden of your own premises, using tray of 
sand, and outlining the boundaries to scale with large or small sprigs 
of green to indicate shrubbery and trees. This will give a compre¬ 
hensive idea of the general landscape effect, and will help to visual¬ 
ize most effectively which plants and foliage, in combination, are 
relatively correct to the design as a whole. Try various spots for the 
little cardboard buildings, for their placing on the grounds is of 
vital importance in the choice of shrubs. However, if these build¬ 
ings have been located, it is gratifying to realize that there 
are plants adaptable to every location and for any expos¬ 
ure. While there are a large number of shrubs and 
plants which enjoy sun, there are others that must 
be placed where they receive protec¬ 
tion from both sun and wind. 


Miniature 

Garden 

Flan 




22 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Dependable 

Plants 


Selections 

Restricted 


Because of the many kinds of soil throughout the Southwest, 
and the varying degrees of moisture, heat, and wind in each sec¬ 
tion, certain plants will thrive in one location which will not 
flourish in another. Southwestern native plants that are surpris¬ 
ingly attractive and effective when cultivated, are most depend¬ 
able as a basis for planting. Many of these are being grown and 
prized in far-distant gardens. 

As it is always effective to confine the selection of plants to a 
limited number of varieties, choose only a few to be the basis of 
the scheme of planting, skillfully grouping, repeating, and com¬ 
bining those selected. Just as a few well-chosen smaller stones, 
repeated in a systematic way, give greater charm to the central 
gem, so appropriate planting emphasizes the architectural beauty 
of the building it encircles. 

Whether large or very tiny, a home may present the height of 
artistic expression. The garden and grounds can be as exquisite 
as a miniature on ivory, or as breath-takingly beautiful as Versailles 
or Hampton Court, for accomplishment of perfection depends 
largely on the skillful use of available materials, blended to a 
nicety of proportion, balance and symmetry. 


Editors. 


The Green Frame 

of the Gar den... Shrubs 

hen the home grounds have been plotted, the 
next step is the arrangement for skeleton 
planting, which should provide a balanced, 
properly-proportioned framework around which 
the remaining planting may be grouped for form, 
symmetry, color and accent. This skeleton of framework is essen¬ 
tially composed of shrubs and trees. As this structure is more or 
less permanent, it should be most carefully thought out. 

Gardeners learn much from experience, but much loss of time 
and material also may be saved by making a proper plan on paper 
first. It seems good advice to begin with a few things. Learn the 
soil requirements, whether lime, acid, neutral, sandy, moist or dry; 
whether in open sun or in semi-shade; and then see that the flower 
beds are properly made (according to the article on soils). When 
such a common-sense plan is carried out, the great enthusiasm of 
the first garden project will not end in disappointment, and the 
plants in premature death, for one will not plant Azaleas and 
Rhododendrons with Cacti and Yaupon with sickness and death as 
the final outcome. 

May we say here to those who are building on a new or vacant 
lot: study the future position of house, garage and any auxiliary 
buildings that they may be grouped for most convenient service, 
using the minimum of ground and, above all, to occupy the least 
and less desirable space for future planting. Also, take into con¬ 
sideration the outlook from living and dining rooms, that the 



A Landscape 
Plan Urged 


General 
Plan On 
Paper 


Place All 
Buildings 
Carefully 


23 


24 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Foundation 

Planting 


Flowering 

Shrubs 


growing garden may be a picture from these windows during the 
greater part of the year. Some have suffered from a north exposure 
with the south garden a part of the kitchen outlook; or a drive¬ 
way that fills a south and east side, when a north would have been 
more direct and released the better growing space to the south and 
east. Another hint: build the type house that will suit the lot or 
choose the ground for your favorite type of house, and then keep 
the plantings consistent. 

Consider first the more massed arrangement about the house. 
The broad and narrow-leafed evergreens and conifers are essential 
for the foundation planting, but beware of overdoing this branch 
of the scheme; using Mahonia, Nandina, Eleagnus fruitlandii, Co- 
toneaster, Pryacanthus, Photinia, Eleagnus, Pittisporums, Berberis, 
Myrtus communis, Viburnums, Rosemary, etc., with the Junipers, 
Yews, Cypress, Cedars and Arbor Vitaes for variation; at the same 
time preserving a special beauty for winter. Allow space between 
for expansion and keep all shrubs trimmed within bounds, even 
the conifers. The difference in color, texture, form and manner of 
growth all add variety to a seemingly sameness of plant. Imagine 
these soft greens as a foil for some of the blooming shrubs—Kerria, 
Kolkwitzia, Almond, etc. 

A portion of the garden should always be devoted to flowering 
shrubs of various kinds, leaving some space to be planted each year 
with new varieties (these spaces, in the interim, to be used for 
annuals, that no gaps be apparent). Robinias are more rare in this 
part of the country but apparently thrive when tried. Exochorda 
has splendid leaf and pure white bloom in early spring; Acacias* 
in variety; Anisacanthus* (native in South and Central Texas) 
with their lovely green leaves and small orange trumpets all sum¬ 
mer; Buddleia; Deutzia; Weigela (several varieties); Forsythia viri- 
dissima, all are especially recommended; and also Altheas; Kerria 
with its double and single yellow flowers and crinkled leaves; Bush 
Loniceras* (Honeysuckle); Philadelphus in variety; Coronarius, 
being fragrant, having four-petaled white flowers in April; Rhus* 


* Native. 



THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN—SHRUBS 25 


(Sumac); Spireas in various forms, colors and time of bloom; 
Syringa (Lilac); Tamarix*; Viburnum and Vitex. How fascinat¬ 
ing are the catalogues in array and description, providing absorbing 
reading for the hungry gardener! 

Several splendid nurseries in the Southwest carry shrubs that 
have been acclimated, and also native material grown from seeds 
and cuttings. Many of our native plants (see page 73) and shrubs 
are most valuable in our home grounds and should be used; but 
not to the detriment of the open country conservation. One of 
these, which thrives in our gardens, is Euonymus atropurpurea*, 
or Spindle Tree, which Mr. E. H. Wilson calls an "Aristocrat of 
the Garden.” 

Consider as accents, Prunus Pissardii (purple flowering-plum) 
with its mass of fresh white flowers very early, the foliage being 
a fine mass and coloring a foil for the dainty Spirea, Kerrias and 
Lilacs. Flowering Willow"' tipped with exquisite orchid-like blooms 
is good for cutting, and its finely divided leaves change the out¬ 
line and massing of the more common shrubs. Red-leafed Maple 
and the maidenhair-fern-like foliage of the Ginkgo-Tree, well 
placed, make splendid accents in the long border or above the house 
planting. Tamarix"' in May, resplendent with long waving plumes 
of deep or pale pink, whose foliage is like sparce pine-needles, grows 
loosely and to some size. Crape Myrtle of various hues is a splendid 
accent, as well as useful as a single lawn specimen (if sharply 
pruned, the flowers will attain great size, otherwise the bush will 
increase in proportion and be a veritable bouquet of smaller pan¬ 
icles) . 

Try accenting the formal Rose Garden with evergreens, low 
growing where needed, or the tall, erect Italian Cypress for the 
background. A Nandina placed near an Arbor Vitae or Arizona 
Cypress displays its magnificent color of leaf and berry. Robinia 
hispida, with its pink pea-like clusters, is a fine specimen. 

It is well to consider, however, some other uses, combinations 


Native 

Shrubs 


Flowering 
Shrubs 
as Accents 


Evergreens 
as Accents 


* Native. 



26 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Color Com¬ 
binations 
of Shrubs 
with Flowers 


Early 

Spring 


and accents for harmonious planting (merely as suggestions to 
be replaced by individual preferences). Pink-flowering Peach, 
Lilac, Redbud"' and Kerria japonica make a charming early spring 
grouping. Deutzia gracilis and Dwarf Flowering Cherry are a 
study in pink and white (low-growing). Bridal Wreath (Spirea) 
with the early blue Flags and Narcissus is a delight to the eye. 
Visualize Rosa Hugonis, the early-blooming yellow shrub Rose, 
with blue Cornflowers and deep purple Tulips; or Scotch Broom 
surrounded by Poppies. Deutzia and Weigela bloom at the same 
time and enjoy each other’s company. The various Crab apples, with 
a wealth of bloom from pale pink to red, make excellent accents, 
too. 


For later in the summer: Cassia floribunda (Senna), easily 
grown from seed, forms a compact shrub covered with clusters 
Summer of gorgeous yellow blooms and can be grown with the various 
Altheas. A native summer-blooming shrub is Anisacanthus* 
bearing its small orange trumpet-flowers with shiny foliage. Bud- 
dleia, or summer lilac, brings the lavender tone into the late gar¬ 
den. The Bush Honeysuckle, when trimmed to keep within bounds, 
is a joy forever, laden with its clusters of coral fragrant flowers. 
It is especially gorgeous as a single specimen. Parkinsonia*, grow¬ 
ing almost to tree proportions, makes a splendid corner accent with 
its plumey foliage and yellow flowers; also the Mimosa*, covered 
with dainty pink tufts, has similar foliage and Poinciana* is of the 
same type, only with scarlet and yellow flowers. Pomegranate 
makes a stunning spot in the garden, but must be planted where 
its very vivid blooms will not clash with surrounding colors. The 
Pussy Willow also deserves a place in every garden. Its furry blooms 
add much to the bouquets for home decoration when garden flow¬ 
ers are scarce. 


In the early fall Callicarpa purpurea* draws the eye by its 
wealth of purple berries bunched along a very green stem. Sophora 
Fall affinis* is almost as showy in the fall, carrying its strings of black 

seed pods, as it is in the spring with its pink panicles of bloom. For 


* Native. 



THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN—SHRUBS 27 



fall and winter Cotoneasters in variety 
supply color in fruit, and their grey- 
green leaves are persistent during ordi¬ 
nary winters. 

The rock or hillside gardens now so popular 
need low-growing shrubs, and the following are 
suggested for trial: Deutzia gracilis, Flowering 
Cherry, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Hypericum*, Teu- 
crium, Mugo-pine. Daphne Oneorum and Daphne 
Mezereum are greatly valued by those who can grow 
them successfully. Junipers and many of the Yuccas or 
Aloes can be used most effectively. 

Although "the American purchaser”, for the most part 
.*,«**- j s sa id to want a "finished product” when he decides on a 
home (usually buying it ready-made), Gardeners, never! Their joy 
is in the slower evolution of a beauty obtained from the individual 
expression of their own plans and in an ever widening interest and 
knowledge, especially if much of the material is grown from seeds 
and cuttings. 

There is no greater joy to the true gardener than that of watch¬ 
ing and tending his plants from the tiny seedlings to the full- 
grown plant, shrub or tree. How unfortunate that many amateurs 
imagine that the seeds of shrubs or trees are only for the profes¬ 
sional grower! Picture the joy of planting (see page 86) the seed 
of a gorgeous native shrub, Tecoma stans,* in a pot to discover in a 
week’s time the cotyledons out of the ground and to keep in touch 
with every stage of development until the crowning bouquet of 
gorgeous golden trumpets! The Conifers and broad-leafed ever¬ 
greens are slower and more difficult, but while the gardener is more 
interested in other, more rapid growers, the plodders are plodding 
along and before it can be realized, a fair sized bush is before one’s 
eyes! 

Much shrub and hardwood plant increase is obtained from cut¬ 
tings taken in the fall of the year before frost, from the current 


Shrubs 

from 

Cuttings 


From 

Seed 


* Native. 






28 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Shrubs 

Grown 

from 

Cuttings 


Method 


Tall - 
Growing 


Spring 

Flowering 


Boundary 
Markers and 
Special 
Screens 


Medium 

Height 


year’s growth of switch-like branches. Cut these into eight-inch 
pieces; strip off leaves, tie like a bundle of fagots, bury obliquely, 
tops up, in a trench deep enough to cover tops about two inches, 
surround and cover entirely with sand and be sure to mark the 
spot as well as the bundle. In February, dig up. At the base of each 
cutting you will find a callus (white rim). Place this cutting in the 
permanent growing position, about half its length above ground, 
and the greater percentage will grow. With Conifers, make cuttings 
similar to Geraniums, leaving most of the leaves on the stem. 
Plant in sand about October and leave ten or twelve months before 
planting in pots or permanent position, after the summer’s heat has 
waned (probably October). 

SCREENS AND HEDGES 

A suggested screen, where height is needed, might be Arizona 
Cypress, Arbor Vitae, Italian Cypress, Cotoneaster pannosa or 
Franchetti, and Juniperus virginiana*. The proper placing should 
give symmetry, fine contour, a “sky-line” and splendid blending of 
color. Add to this for more color occasional plants of flowering 
shrubs such as Red Bud"', Flowering Crab, Plum, Peach or Cherry. 
A screen of this sort might be followed out back of the perennial 
border. 

Hedges may be used also as boundary-markers and to form a 
frame for various special gardens , such as Rose, perennial, vegeta¬ 
ble, etc. They may be used as a screen from the street or a neigh¬ 
bor’s property, or a division line to separate terraces or various sec¬ 
tions, even of small property. For such purposes, let us venture 
into new fields, not discarding our tried and true Privets, Euony- 
mus and Ligustrums, but let us vary the frame to suit the picture. 


SHRUBS IN CALCAREOUS SOIL—"My information and experience is that only two 
of the Cotoneasters will support a soil containing much lime; that the Yews abominate 
the prairie regions; and the Viburnums seldom justify their space. Mahonia is very subject 
to sorosis in calcareous soil. Of the Syringas Philadelphus virginalis is best of all, unless 
it is pubesecens. Lonicera Maacki (Asiatic) is the best bush honeysuckle in commerce, fra¬ 
grant, and has myriads of scarlet fruit in the fall, remaining until consumed by hungry 


* Native. 




THE GREEN FRAME OF THE GARDEN—SHRUBS 29 


Can you imagine a low hedge of Polyantha Roses (La Marne, Gold - 
en Salmon, Edith Cavel, or Kirsten Poulson) all of whose beauty 
of tint changes with the season but whose bloom is constant? 

For a less formal hedge, not to be trimmed to even line, but to 
be cut back severely is the Crape Myrtle, making a lovely border 
with Verbenas, or some low-growing ground-cover. Crab apples are 
native to most of the United States and are not difficult of culti¬ 
vation, yet what could be more effective than a hedge of these 
exquisite deep pink to white clusters of fragrant blossoms? Abelia, 
with its glossy, deep-green leaves, evergreen in most portions of the 
Southwest, and capable of severe pruning, is glorious hedge and 
border material, covered all summer with flowers in form and 
fragrance like the Northern Trailing Arbutus. These shrubs should 
be pruned to four or five canes every four or five years, similar to 
Rose pruning. Mahonia Aquifolium, or Berberis nervosa (Oregon 
grape), though of slow growth, makes a thick mass of holly-like 
leaves that take the most exquisite coloring in fall and winter, 
sprays of which make beautiful house bouquets for a month or 
more, if the water is changed and the stems cut as with greenhouse 
blooms. 

Crataegus* (or Hawthorn) is also available for hedges, many 
varieties being native to the Southwest. Cydonia or Pyrus japo- 
nica* (Flowering Quince), which blooms early, makes a splendid 
hedge, but in trimming, to preserve flowers, leave last year’s wood. 
Citrus trifoliata,* (poncirus trifoliata), makes an impenetrable 
barrier, beautiful in spring with its fragrant white blossoms, to be 
followed in autumn with small decorative yellow orange-like fruits; 
and, during the winter months, the green branches and stems are 
not devoid of beauty. 

birds, of which they are partaken by more than twenty species. Also, when in bloom, 
swarms of butterflies are attracted by their fragrance and color. The name "Chaparral” is 
given (locally) without discrimination to the following quite different plants . . . Rham- 
nus Caroliniana; Zizyphus obtusifolia; Agarita; Algerita; Berberis trifoliolata; Lippia 
lycioides, or Bee brush; Castela nicholsonii, Goatbush, or “Amargosa;” and Acacia greggii, 
Catsclaw or Devil’s Claws.”—R. A. Gilliam, Dallas. 


Low 


Informal 


Native 

Hedges 


* Native. 




30 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Note on 
Pruning 


Privet, Ligustrum and Euonymus, if one wishes a low hedge, 
should be pruned to the ground every four or five years. Do not 
despair when the luxuriant growth is cut away, for the strong, 
established roots will send up a wealth of new lacy growth to de¬ 
light the eye and keep the bushes thick and healthy. In our part 
of the country, where growth is so abundant, frequent and severe 
pruning is necessary. 

The following lists have been compiled from answers sent in 
reply to the many questionnaires sent throughout this district to 
secure accurate information from each locality and may be an aid 
in selecting those shrubs known to be adapted to various specific 
sections. 

May this small contribution be the means of inspiring new 
gardeners with an adventure into the association of growing things 
and those experienced in the game, to reach out into new fields 
and greater joys, is the sincere wish of the writer. 

—Louise Belsterling. 


SHRUBS IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Listed from the Questionnaires 




Found in all sections 
and in all soils. 
Abelia F. 

’•'Acacia F. 

Althea (Rose of 
Sharon) F. 

’•'Apache Plume Fallugia 
paradoxa F. 

Arbor Vitae 

♦Bird-of-Paradise 
(Poinciana) F. 

Broom (Genista 
tinctoria) F. 

Buddleia (Butterfly 
Bush) F. 

♦Buckthorn (Rhamnus 
Caroliniana) F.B. 

♦Buckthorn (Chaparral) 
Zizyphus obtusifolia B. 
Bush Honeysuckle, early 
Lonicera fragrantissima 

’•'Coral Berry (Indian 
Currant) B. 
(Symphoricarpos 
vulgaris) 

Cape Jasmine 
(Gardenia) F. 

"■Chaparral (Castela 

nicholsonii, Goatbush, 
“Amargosa”) 

"■Chaparral (Acacia 
greggii) F. 

* Chaparral (Lippia 

lycioides, or Bee bush) 
Cherry Laurel 
(Laurocerasus 
caroliniana) F. 

"■Chaparral (Berberis 
trifoliolata) 

Cotoneasters F. 

"■Crataegus mackensenii 
and Crus-galli F.B. 
(Hawthorn or Red Haw) 
Cydonia japonica F. 
(Burning Bush 
Japanese Quince) 
Callicarpa Americana 
(French Mulberry) F.B. 

"■Callicarpa purpurea 
(Beauty berry) 
Euonymus B. 

♦Elder F.B. 


♦Eupatorium (Wild 
Ageratum) F. 
Thorowort, or Boneset 

Forsythia F. 

Flowering Almond F. 

Flowering Crab F. 

Flowering Peach F. 

Flowering Plum F. 

Flowering Willow F. 

(Desert Willow) 
♦Honeysuckles F. 

Italian Cypress 
♦Ilex (Holly) decidua, 
grey leafless B. 

♦Ilex vomitoria-Yaupon 
evergreen B. 

Jasmines in Variety F. 
♦Junipers 
♦Lantana F. 

Lilac—Syringa vulgaris 
(common lilac) F. 

Lilac—French hybrids F. 

Mahonia (Oregon 
Grape) B. 

Mesquite 

Nandina F.B. 

♦Poinciana aculeata (Bird 
of Paradise) F. 

Philadelphus (Syringa) F. 

Privet F.B. 

Photinia B. 

Pyracantha coccinea 
Laplandia F.B.f 
(Firethorn, Burning 
Bush) 

♦Red Bud (Cercis) F. 
♦Rhus (Sumac) F. 

♦Sumac 
♦Salvias F. 

♦Salvia (Greggii) F. 

Spireas in variety F. 
♦Tamarix (Salt Cedar) F. 

Vitex| 

Weigelia F. 

♦Yucca F. 

Yew 

Yellow Jasmine F. 


{Editorial Note: This Pyracantha 
and three other varieties do not 
require a special kind of soil or 
location. 

{Editorial Note: Vitex will grow 
in any soil} endures heat and 
drought. 


SUGGESTED FOR 
TRIAL 

Amelanchief canadensis 
(Shadbush) B. 
Azalias F. 

Barberries B. 
Broad-leafed Evergreens 
Caragana (Yellow 
Pea Tree) F. 
Caryopteris (Blue 
Spirea) F. 

Chionanthus (Fringe 
Tree) F. 

Clethra ainifolia (Sweet 
Pepper Shrub) F. 
Cornus (Dogwood) 
in variety F. 

Deutzias 
Daphne F. 

Exochordia (Pearl Bush) 
Ginkgo (Maiden-Hair 
Tree) F. 

Grevillea robusta 
(Silk Oak) 

♦Halesia tetraptera 
Japanese Yew 
Kerrias (in variety) F. 
Kolkwitzia (Beauty 
Bush) F. 

Laburnam (Golden 
Chain) F. 

Laurestinus (Viburnum 
Tinus) F.B. 

♦Mimosa F. 

♦Persimmon 
Prunus (in variety) F. 
Pussy Willow 
Rhododendrons 
Robinia hispida 
(Rose Acacia) F. 

♦Salvias (in variety) F. 

♦Sophora affinis B. 
Spindle Tree (Euonymus 
atropurpurea) F.B. 
Spireas (in varieties) F. 
Stephanandra 
Symphoricarpus 
(Snowberry) B. 
Symphoricarpus vulgaris 
(Coralberry) B. 
Viburnums 

(in variety) F.B. 



Legend: F. Flower or Foliage. B. Berrybearing. *Native. 



-< 6(31 











SHRUBS IN THE SOUTHWEST —Continued 


f 


Listed from the Questionnaires 




EAST TEXAS and 
LOUISIANA 
(Acid Soil) 

Bamboo Vine (Smilax 
renifolia) 

*Black Haw (Swamp) 

(Viburnum nudum) B. 
Crape Myrtle F. 

Deutzia F. 

Dogwood (Cornus) 
in variety F. 

Fringe Tree, white 
(Chionanthus 
virginica) F. 

Hydrangea F. 

Magnolia 
Pomegranate F.B. 

Palmetto 
Pussy Willow F. 

Snow Ball 

(Viburnum opulus) F. 
Swamp Myrtle F. 

Wild Rose 

*Yaupon (Holly) B. 

WEST and NORTH¬ 
WEST TEXAS 
(Semi-Acid, Acid, and 
Neutral Soil) 

* Acacias F. 

Arbor Vitae 

Bluebeard (Fringe Tree) 
(Chionanthus) 

*Buckeye F.B. 

Cypress in variety 
Caragana (Pea Tree) 
Cedrus deodara 
’''Dogwood (Amarillo) 
Halepensis Pine 
Kerria B. 

WACO, TEXAS, and 
VICINITY 

**Banana 
** Palmetto 
Pomegranate 
Jasmine, Grand Duke 
Hibiscus 
Lemon Verbena 


Vines — 

Mirandia 

Belgian Honeysuckle 
Star Jasmine 
Yellow Jasmine 

NEW MEXICOf 

Listed in order of 
excellence. 

Crape Myrtle F. 

Vitex F. 

Pomegranate (double 
flowering) F. 

Flowering Crab Apple F. 
Quince (flowering) F. 
Spirea F. 

Lilac F. 

Pyracanthus F. 
Cotoneaster F. 

Euonymus B. 

Japanese Privet B. 
Buddleia F. 

Box 

Santolina F. 

Mahonia F. 

Native 

Algerita or Arguta 
(Odostemon 
Haematocarpa) B. 

Red Bud (Cercis) F. 

Coral Berry B. 

Bush Honeysuckle F. 
Salvia Greggii F. 

CENTRAL and SOUTH 
TEXAS 

(Limestone Soil) 

Anisacanthus virgularis 
Deutzia 

*Feijoa (Pineapple Guava) 
Gardenia 
*Poinciana 
Pussy Willow 
Viburnum 
*Yaupon (Holly) 


OKLAHOMA^ 

Althea (Rose of 
Sharon) F. 

Butterfly Bush 
Crape Myrtle F. 
Deutzia F. 

Euonymus B. 

Flowering Almond F. 
Forsythia F. 

Hydrangea (hardy) F. 
Japanese Barberry B. 
Japanese Quince F. 
Kerria F. 

Lilac F. 

Mock Orange F.B. 
Plums or Prunus F.B. 
Snowberry F.B. 

Spirea F. 

Viburnum F.B. 

Weigelia F. 

Native 

Beauty Bush (Callicarpa 
Purpurea) F.B. 
Currant (Ribes) B. 
Buckbush F.B. 

Dogwood (Cornus) F. 
Indian Currant F.B. 
(Symphoricarpos 
Vulgaris) 
Honeysuckle 
(Lonicera) F. 

Plums (Prunus) F.B. 
Redbud (Cerces 
Caradeusis) F.B. 
Sumac (Rhus) F. 


tFrom information furnished by 
Prof. Adlai Feather of State Col¬ 
lege, Mesilla Valley, New Mexico. 
fThis information was furnished 
by Prof. Frank B. Cross, Okla¬ 
homa A. & M. College, Stillwater, 
Oklahoma. 

Editorial Note: Mr. Horace J. 
Harper of the faculty of the 
Agricultural College at Stillwater 
has sent the information that the 
greater part of Oklahoma (East¬ 
ern portion especially) is acid 
soil. As the greatly prized Azaleas 
and Rhododendrons require this 
soil, it is hoped an attempt will 
be made to grow them extensive¬ 
ly. Perhaps success might be se¬ 
cured by growing them in semi- 
shady spots. 




Legend: F. Flower or Foliage. B. Berrybearing. *Native. **Protection. 


■ 4 ( 32 
















TS{ative Shrubs 


-Lhere are innumerable native shrubs in the Southwest just 
as beautiful and much more adaptable (especially to those localities 
which have a limited supply of water) to the climatic conditions 
than many of those from other lands. Unless specially noted, the 
majority of these shrubs prefer the minimum of acidity in that 
soil in which they thrive—the major part of the Southwest being 
non-acid soil. 

With this idea in view, a large number of catalogues have been 
searched and the following list has been compiled of those that 
may be purchased. A surprising number are being carried by nur¬ 
serymen in other states, which could not be located in the lists of 
our own Southwestern commercial growers. 

Editor. 


Acacia farnesiana 

Huisache (pronounced wee-satch). Semi¬ 
hardy in the region as a whole. A 
rather small spreading tree with at¬ 
tractive fern-like foliage and fragrant 
yellow ball-shaped flowers, borne 
abundantly all spring. Demands rich 
soil and a great deal of moisture. 

Artemisia (Dusty Miller) 

Has feathery, silver-gray foliage. 

f Agarita (Berberis trifoliata) 

Native barbary; evergreen; semi-hardy. 
May be termed Western Holly. En¬ 
dures drought. Leaves are sharply 
pointed and are bright green, making 
a beautiful contrast for the red berries. 
In the early spring it has very fragrant 
rose-like blossoms. 


f Agarita (Berberia Swaseyi) 

Similar to above, having large white ber¬ 
ries and heavier foliage. 

f Agarita (Berberis repens) 

Oregon Grape. Purple berries. Resembles 
Holly. West Texas and New Mexico. 

f Aloe and Agave 

Desert plants. 

fAnisacanthus (Wrightii) 

Grows about five feet tall and bears 
through summer and fall, orange-red 
flowers. Should be cut back to eight 
inches in February. 

f Beauty Berry ( Callicarpa purpurea) 
This large-leafed shrub, growing about 
four feet, has graceful curving 


fDemands very little water. Is drought and heat-resistant. 

33 



34 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


branches. Feathery blue flowers in sum¬ 
mer, followed in the fall with clusters 
of purple berries on peduncles from the 
axils of the leaves. The birds are very 
fond of these berries. Should be trans¬ 
planted or divided early in the fall. 

f Bois d’arc—Osage Orange (Macbura 
pomifera) 

Forms an excellent, impenetrable, spiked 
hedge. The wood is bright orange color 
and the fruit large, green orange-like 
balls with milky white pulp, non¬ 
edible. The French name indicates the 
extensive use made of the wood for 
Indian bows. 

fBird-of-Paradise (Poinciana 
Gillies ii ) 

Mexican Spider Flower. Has lacy foliage 
and clusters of showy yellow flowers 
with bright red stamens longer than 
the petals. It blooms freely from spring 
until fall. 

fBlack Berries 

Valuable for hedges, flowers and fruit. 
Attracts the birds. 

Black Haw (Viburnum prunijolium) 
Rusty Nannyberry. Not a Hawthorn at 
all, but a member of the Honeysuckle 
family. A tall, sturdy shrub, showing 
many clusters of small white flowers 
in the spring. 

Burning Bush, or Wahoo 
(Euonymus atropurpureus) 

This shrub likes partial shade and is most 
attractive in the fall because of the 
abundant crimson fruit, dropping in 
long peduncles that are often mistaken 
for flowers. 

fBush Morning Glory 

(Ipomea leptophylla and fistulosa) 

Button-Bush 

(Cepbalanthus occidentals) 

Button Willow. A most ornamental shrub 
having fragrant snowy white or cream 
flowers which, like Magnolia blossoms, 
turn brown soon after being picked. 
It prefers moderately rich soil with 
plenty of moisture. 


Cactus in Variety. 

Castor Bean (Ricinus Communius) 

Tall growing, large leaves give tropical 
effect. Roots said to drive away moles. 

Coral Berry 

(Sympborcarpus vulgaris) 

Indian Currant. Low growing shrubs that 
may be used for borders or for natural¬ 
izing on hillsides. Its purplish red ber¬ 
ries are very ornamental. It grows well 
in the shade, but the berries are more 
highly colored in partial sun. 

fDewberries 

of same value as Blackberries, flowers and 
fruit larger. 

Dogwood (Cornus Florida) 

The Dogwood is one of the most popular 
native American shrubs. It is most dif¬ 
ficult to become established in soil 
where lime predominates. 

fDwarf Chestnut 
(Ae sc ides octandra) 

An attractive leafed shrub, bearing long 
racemes of rose-colored flowers. 

False Indigo (Amorpba fruticosa) 

A strong growing shrub with feathery 
foliage and deep purple flower spikes. 

Feijoa Sellowiana 

Pineapple guava. Hardy evergreen having 
reddish-purple and white flowers and 
delicious fruit. 

Hawthorn (Crataegus Crus-galli) 

Red Haw. Cockspur Thorn. This is a 
small tree but is listed among the 
shrubs. It has small shiny leaves and 
very long, sharp, almost red thorns, 
making the whole most attractive. The 
clusters of white flowers are most ex¬ 
quisite, and bright scarlet fruit takes 
their place in the autumn. 

Holly (Ilex vomitria) Evergreen 

Yaupon. So well known does not need 
describing, other than to state that it 
is another shrub that will not tolerate 
lime. There is a legend that the Indians 
made tea of the leaves of this Holly and 
when other ceremonials were over, 
drank it as a purification ceremony. It 
made them quite ill for days. 


fDemands very little water. Is drought and heat-resistant. 



NATIVE SHRUBS 


35 


Holly (Ilex decidua) 

Texas Holly. Winterberry. ’Possum Haw. 
Its grey, leafless branches, laden with 
bright red berries are exquisitely beau¬ 
tiful during the entire winter. This Ilex 
is slow-growing and most difficult to 
transplant. 

f Lantana (Camara) 

A low bush bearing a profusion of 
orange, yellow and red flowers that 
bloom until frost. Must have protec¬ 
tion to withstand freezing. 

f Lespedeza prairea 

Bush Clover. A low-growing shrub that 
is found in the dry soil of East and 
Central Texas. It has rosy-purple 
flowers in racemes in spring and fall. 
Will grow in semi-shade. 

Leucophyllum texanum. Barometer 
plant or bush 

Senisa, or Wild Lilac, is an evergreen with 
ashy, almost white small leaves and 
lovely lavender flowers. Semi-hardy, 
for will not survive severe freezing. It 
is claimed that it will forecast rain by 
blossoming even before it rains. 

Prunus Reverchon, Hog plum 

and other wild plums have edible fruit 
and fragrant flowers. 

fParkinsonia aculaeata 

Jerusalem Thorn. A very large shrub, or 
small tree, most attractive because of 
iti lacy drooping foliage. In the spring 
it is laden with clusters of vivid yel¬ 
low flowers, followed by edible fruit. 
It prefers moist situations. Tea made 
from leaves and branches has medi¬ 
cinal properties. Freezing temperature 
renders this evergreen deciduous. It will 
grow in any soil. 

Poinsettia havensisis 
has brilliant foliage in the fall, but frost 
kills. 


fRed Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) 

Red Cedar is distributed in some form 
over most of the continent. It is said 
that "it provides for landscape planting 
in the Eastern states that classical effect 
which the Italian Cypress gives to the 
landscape of Southern Europe.” It is 
an important commercial product, and 
receives its common name from the 
color of the wood of mature trees. 
Juniperus virginiana reptans is very low 
growing with wide-spread branches. 

fRed Bud (Cerc'ts occidentalis) 

Artistic free-branching shrub or small 
tree. Covered in early spring, before 
the leaves appear, with innumerable 
small flowers of varying shades of 
purplish-pink. It grows readily from 
seed and the small bushes bloom the 
second or third year. 

Rhus (Sumac) in variety 

fRose Mallow (Pavonia lasiopetala) 

A low shrub bearing bright rosy-pink 
flowers in profusion. It is adaptable to 
shade and hillside gardens. 

Sesbania-Coffeebean tree 

Feathery leaves and drooping yellow 
flowers. 

fWillow, Flowering 
(Chilopsis linearis) 

Desert Willow. A small tree rather angu¬ 
lar in growth, suitable as a background 
or single specimen. It has graceful foli¬ 
age and beautiful bell-shaped lavender 
flowers, borne most of the summer. It 
will grow easily from cuttings. A na¬ 
tive of West Texas and New Mexico. 

Umbrella tree 

There are two kinds of Chinaberry trees 
(Melia Azedarach) one being umbra- 
culiformis and the other more flo- 
riferous, called floribunda, the former 
being decidedly umbrella-shaped. 


Anna Hearne Newbury. 


tDemands very little water. Is drought and heat-resistant. 



GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 



Before and After 
Screening a Back Yard 



















USE ShyftRP 


> 



Pruning 


All new gardeners tend to allow shrubs and 
vigorous-growing plants to develop without re¬ 
straint. They fear that through lack of expert 
knowledge they may do injury to a treasured 
bush or flower. However, nothing is of value 
unless it serves the purpose for which it was intended, so a shrub 
must be forced to comply with those purposes for which it was 
selected and planted. 

Thus when and how to prune plants is one of the many valuable 
lessons to be learned from the old English gardeners. Their years 
of experience have enabled them to use and keep within bounds 
their plant-colors, as an artist handles his palette, so that each indi¬ 
vidual specimen is forced to take its relative place in the garden 
picture. How to use plants to advantage and so control them that 
they occupy only the space allotted them denotes a Master Gar¬ 
dener. 

To maintain grounds and foundations well balanced is always a 
vital consideration. 


Evergreens are selected primarily for backgrounds, against 
which to display splashes of color, for their softening green is as 
distinct a color factor as white, which serves to blend groups of 
brilliant-colored flowers, so the shades of green are always needed 
to create harmony. Since all evergreens may not be directed into 
desired shapes, symmetry 
can only be secured by 
choosing those varieties 
which will permit of 
training. Valuable years of 



Value 


Relative 

Place 


Evergreens 


37 



38 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Flowering 

Shrubs 


Time 


plant growth are lost when mistakes are made in the original 
selection. 

While evergreens are only pruned for form and restraint, flow¬ 
ering shrubs should be kept trimmed for excellence of bloom, 
development of strength and beauty of contour. Those flowering 
shrubs whose habit is to produce a number of canes, from the same 
root stock, should have the old and hardened canes as well as all 
dead wood removed and kept removed. In this way the less ma¬ 
tured branches will develop strength and vigor. In most cases these 
produce much more perfect blossoms. By allowing only enough 
canes to develop to give the bush symmetry without overcrowd¬ 
ing, beauty of form is obtained. 

When it becomes necessary to lower the top branches, never 
trim them all the same height. Cut them irregular lengths, though 
taking care not to be stubby, in order to give the shrub a more 
graceful, natural effect. 

Spirea, trimmed severely immediately after blooming, will give 
light and space to surrounding plants, as well as a greater wealth 
of bloom the succeeding season. This and several others of the 
early-flowering shrubs may be kept the desired shape and size by 
taking off those branches undesired when the buds begin to swell. 
These, put in water indoors, may be forced to flower before those 
out-of-doors by the heat of the house, and thus a double purpose 
is served. 

A simple key as to time of pruning flowering-shrubs is all those 
blossoming in the spring should be trimmed immediately after 
Powering , while those that bloom in late summer or fall should be 
cut back after they lose their leaves or during early winter. 


Editors. 


















. 









































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Hosts of 

Gay Flowering Plants 

%o garden, be it ever so samll, is complete with- 
V out its hardy border, its beds of perennials and 
/. annuals. 

Perennial plants are most satisfactory, for 
they start growth with the earliest hint of spring and from the 
time the first flowers come in March and April, there is a succes¬ 
sion of bloom until late fall. The garden-lover looks forward to 
these recurring seasons as joyously as the visit of an old friend is 
anticipated. 

Every garden, of course, needs a definite design and a back¬ 
ground of either a wall, or shrubs, mostly evergreens, with a few 
flowering shrubs interspersed here and there for color. This placed, 
you can begin with the planting of your perennials; and what a 
fascinating occupation, for keep in mind that you are creating 
a picture, and so a series of pictures must be planned for. 

Choose, therefore, your plants with regard to height, color and 
season of bloom, placing them in uneven groups of threes or fives. 
By all means avoid straight lines. Could anything, for instance, be 
lovelier than a mass grouping of lavender Phlox and tall yellow 
Snapdragons with clumps of orange California Poppies, and Pinks 
in front of them, serving as a low border to complete the picture? 
Monarda purpurea supplies an excellent lavender to bloom with 
the rose Loosestrife (Lythrum roseum). These two plants do well 
here and bloom during the hot days of late June and July. 

To have continuous bloom, place a grouping of summer or late 
fall-blooming plants in between or in back of spring-blooming 


Value of 

Perennials 

in 

Gardens 


Key to 
Choice of 
Perennials 


39 



40 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


For 

Continuous 

Bloom 


Tall 

Growing 

Perennials 


Correct 

Spacing 

and 

Planting 


Amount of 

Water 

Required 


Propagation 

by 

Division 


ones, so as the one is finished, the others will follow. This succes¬ 
sion of bloom creates a bright and changing pageant. 

Whether your herbaceous border has or has not a background 
of shrubs, place those tall-growing plants (such as Hollyhocks, 
hardy Asters, Helenium, Goldenglow, Helianthus and Larkspur) 
in the back of the bed; the medium-height plants, of course, in the 
center; and, as a border, the low-growing or edging plants of dif¬ 
ferent colors, to have a continuance of bloom. 

Do not make the mistake of planting your perennials too close 
to each other, for they must be left undisturbed for at least four 
years to acquire their full beauty, and need room to develop into 
large clumps. (A good rule to follow, I believe, is from one to two 
feet apart, according to height). For this reason, and the most im¬ 
portant one in planting perennials as well as annuals, prepare your 
beds thoroughly according to the foregoing article on soil. Even in 
a moderately mild climate, such as ours, almost all perennials or 
annuals can be grown if the beds are properly prepared, the soil 
enriched with the proper plant-food, and the plants (such as Del¬ 
phinium, Peonies, Phlox and Columbine) placed in a location 
(such as the east side of the house, garage or in front of a tall 
hedge) where they may be shielded from the burning afternoon 
sun. Good drainage is also very essential. Every fall and every 
spring put a mixture of bonemeal, dried sheep manure and wood- 
ashes around your perennials; lightly cultivate this in with a small 
hand-trowel, and then water thoroughly. 

Do not make the mistake of watering any plants every day, and 
never just sprinkle; but water thoroughly , letting the water soak 
down to the roots about twice a week in real dry weather. This 
causes the roots to go down and not to come to the top to be 
baked by the hot sun. Twice a week, soaked thoroughly , is enough 
and then only if they need it. 

Most perennials are propagated by root division, as the Peony, 
the Phlox, Delphinium, Daisies, Hardy Asters, Salvias, Achilleas, 
Chrysanthemums and others. A few, as some Pinks and all Carna¬ 
tions, are better "layered”. This is done by covering the woody 
stalk with dirt. Shortly it takes root, and then can be planted to 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


41 


itself. Those that can be propagated by seed are listed in the cata¬ 
logues. 

Always transplant or plant perennials in the fall in this climate 
about the end of October. If transplanted in the spring they do 
not get the proper root growth necessary to take them throughout 
hot summers. For this reason many people think that certain plants 
will not grow here, when, if planted in the fall, they would grow 
successfully. I have found that if seeds of perennials are started in 
August, in a partly shaded bed or cold frame, kept moist they will 
be large enough by the end of October to transplant to their per¬ 
manent place in the border. Thus they will become rooted enough 
before real cold weather starts to withstand the winter, and form 
large clumps by spring, blooming most of the summer. 

All of the plants listed in this article have been successfully 
grown in this climate in my garden (Dallas) and have grown 
more beautiful each year. 

Let us start with the early spring. As you go down the flag¬ 
stone path with what eager eyes you look over your beds to see the 
clumps of Peonies, Pyrethrum, Columbine, Cheiranthus Allionii, 
Glaucium (the Horned Poppy), Anchusa, Campanula (Bellflower), 
Trachelium, Adenophora (Ladybell), Physostegia virginiana (the 
early blooming Dragonhead) Cammassias, Valerian officinalis rubra, 
Pinks, Coreopsis, Baptisia australis, Thermopsis montana, Helen- 
ium Hoopesii, early Daisies and others springing up between the 
clumps of Tulips, giving them a soft carpet, as it were. Just about 
three weeks later, April 30th, in my garden, all of these perennials 
are a mass of bloom, forming a wonderful picture together with 
huge clumps of Iris ( Isoline, Magnified, Monseignor, Shekinah and 
others). 

Each day one exclaims, “Could anything be lovelier?” but as 
the days pass on and the later perennials burst into bloom, it is hard 
to decide which picture is really the loveliest. 

May and June bring forth more bloom, a miracle of beauty and 
color—Achillea filipendulina, Achillea Millifolium, Monarda didy- 
ma, Monarda purpurea, Lythrum roseum with its spikes of rose 
pink flowers, Hemerocallis (the double and single Day lilies) send 


Time to 
Plant or 
Transplant 
Perennials 


Early 

Flowering 


42 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Summer 
and Fall 
Flowering 
Perennials 


Annuals 


Planting 

Directions 


their tall spikes of bloom well above the purple Phlox-Deutzia 
that does so well here. This pageant lasts well into July, only to be 
replaced by Salvia leucantha, Salvia farinacea and Salvia azurea 
with their tall spikes of orchid and sky-blue that harmonize so 
beautifully with the Helenium autumnale and Riverton Gem. The 
stately Goldenglow, with its bright yellow clusters of flowers, is 
a background for Physostegia virginiana. On into September and 
October, with clumps of Ageratum, annual Klondyke Cosmos, and 
Michaelmas Daisies. As we reach late October and November, the 
garden retires in a blaze of glory, supplied by the wonderful Chry¬ 
santhemums in rose, pinks and crimsons, yellows and bronzes. 

Someone has said “There are rich rewards in a perennial garden 
and much quiet joy.” 

So much for the perennials so generous and colorful from early 
spring until autumn, but what of the annuals? These are neces¬ 
sary, too. We all love them and could not have a garden without 
them. (See page 55.) 

Skillful planning will enable you to use the same ground several 
times so that places occupied by Tulips or any spring bulbs may be 
a blaze of color in the later summer or fall with lovely annuals. A 
bed of Larkspur may be replaced by Zinnias or a bed of early Pop¬ 
pies replaced with Marigolds. These will, in a short time, present a 
mass of color necessary perhaps to complete a picture. Almost 
everyone is familiar with those annuals that grow in our extremely 
hot climate—Cornflowers, Zinnias, Pansies, annual Phlox, Mari¬ 
golds, Lantanas, Nasturtiums, Arctotis, Verbenas, Escholtzias, 
Alyssum, annual Ageratum, tall growing and dwarf Gaillardias, 
Candytuft, Centaureas, Cockscomb, and the biannual Hollyhocks. 

To have a beautiful effect early in the spring with annuals, cer¬ 
tain ones (namely Larkspur, Poppies, Candytuft, and the Cen¬ 
taureas) should be planted in the fall, in late October, in a bed 
that has been well-spaded and fertilized with equal parts of bone- 
meal and sheep manure, or with well-rotted cow manure. 

The following table gives a detailed account of those perennials 
that I have thoroughly tested and found a success in Dallas: 


'Perennials 

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 




Plant 

Color 

Height 

Time of Blooming 

Remarks 

’Achillea—Eupatorium . . 

Yellow 

3 to 4 ft. 

End of May and 

Showy perennial; valuable for cut 

filipendulina (Yarrow) 



June 

flowers; should be cut back after 
flowering. Needs full sun. 

’Achillea — Millefolium. . 

Rose 

3 to 4 ft. 

End of May and 

Showy; valuable for cut flowers; 

( Y arrow) 



June 

should be cut back after flower¬ 
ing. Full sun; spreads rapidly. 
Resembles Campanula; increases 

Adenophora — Ladybell.. . 

Blue Purple 

3 ft. 

End of May and 

(Potanini) 


thru summer 

rapidly. 

Anchusa — Alkanet. 

Blue 

4 ft. 

Early summer 

Tall spikes of sky blue flowers. 

(Dropmore) azurea 

Anchusa 

Blue 

12 in. 

Early spring 

Dwarf perennial; clusters of blue 

Myosotidiflora 
{ANEMONE . 

Mixed Colors 

2 to 3 ft. 

flowers resembling forget-me-nots 
Do better in partial shade. No after¬ 
noon sun; well drained location. 

Fall 

j aponica—W indflower 




Tender. 

Anthemis . 

Yellow 

1 to 2 ft. 

June and July 

Succeeds in poorest soil; finely cut 
foliage; large yellow daisy flowers 
on tall stems. 

tinctoria 




{Aquilegia — Columbine. . 

Various 

3 ft. 

May and June 

Partial shade; prefers oaks and 

Colors 



cedars; ordinary good garden soil; 
add a little peat moss, oak leaves 
or leaf-mold; prefers acid yet rich 
soil. (See page 53.) 

Sandy soil, full sun. Do not disturb 


’Asclepias — tuberosa. 

Orange 

i y 2 to 2 ft. 

July 

Butterfly Weed 


Fall 

after once planted. 

Asters — Michaelmas 

Various 

3 to 5 ft. 

Any good soil; full sun. 

Daisy 

’Baptisia — australis. 

Colors 

Dark Blue 

3 ft. 

May 

Lupine-like flowers; rich soil; sunny 
location. 

False-Indigo 


Rot.tonta— asfpmides 

Pinkish V/hite 


Aug. and Sept. 
May 

Aster-like; blooms in profusion. 
Semi-shade; requires protection, as 

Campanula — Medium.... 

Various 

3 to 4 ft. 

Canterbury Bells 

Colors 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

do delphinum. (See page 45.) 

Carnation Allwoodii. . . 

Various 

Half Carnation and half Pink. 


Colors 




Centaurea. 

Violet Blue 

2 ft. 

June to Sept. 

Good cut flower. 

montana 

Cheiranthus — (Siberian 

Orange 

1 to 2 ft. 

April, May and 

Similar to Wallflowers; splendid 

Wallflower — Allionii) 


June 

border plant; good drainage. 

Chrysanthemums. 

Various 

2 to 3 ft. 

Fall 

Culture given in article by Mrs. 


Colors 



Marcus. 

Chrysanthemum — 

White 

2 to 3 ft. 

Summer 

Deep rich soil; sunny position; 

(Maximum) 

(Shasta Daisy) 



End of May and 

divide alternate years. 

Sunny position; well drained soil. 

Coreopsis. 

Yellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

(Tick seed) 


June 

Sunny position; well drained soil. 

Dianthus — Pinks. 

Various 

2 ft. 

May and June 

{Delphinium. 

Colors 

Blue 

3 to 4 ft. 

May and June 

Very rich soil; specially prepared 

(Larkspur) 


(see page 45); likes lime; no 
afternoon sun; semi-shade. 
Biennial; neutral soil; prefers pro- 



{Digitalis. 

Rose and 

4 to 6 ft. 

May 

(Foxglove) 

White 


tection from afternoon sun; east 

’Eupatorium. 

Bluish 

2 ft. 

August and 

Any ordinary soil. 

Hardy Ageratum 

Lavender 

2 ft. 

September 

Full sun; prefers moist, peaty soil; 
needs protection in winter. (See 

{Gfrbera. 

Mixture 

May 








page 97.) 

{GA7ANIA. 

White, Yellow 

1 ft. 

April 

Borderplant; sunny position. 


Orange 




OvPSOPHIT.A. 

White “ 

2 to 3 ft. 

Summer 

Any well drained soil; prefers lime 

(Baby’s Breath) 

Hft fniiim. 



Aug. and Sept. 

and sunny position. 

Yellow 

3 to 4 ft. 

Any ordinary soil; full sun. 

*Hfi tanthus. 

Yellow 

3 ft. 

July 

Any ordinary rich soil; full sun. 

multifloius 

Hfi topsis. 

Yellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

July 

Any ordinary rich soil, full sun. 

HFMFROr'Al.I.IS. 

Yellow and 

3 ft. 

May, June and 

Spreads rapidly; full sun or shade. 

(Day Lilies) 

Hibiscus. 

Orange 
White, Pink 

3 to 4 ft. 

July 

All summer 

Full sun; forms large clumps. 


and Red 



Full sun. 

Hnn thocks. 

Various 

4 to 6 ft. 

Spring 

Hviiranc.ba. 

Various 

4 to 6 ft. 

Spring 

Semi-shade. 

Hypericum — St. John’s 
Wort . 

Yellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Semi-shade. 


tRequires special care. ’Native. {Grown extensively in El Paso. 

-■•§{ 43 fr™ 




































'Perennials 

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS— Continued, 




Plant 

Color 

Height 

Time of Blooming 

Remarks 

Lathyrus . 

Perennial Sweet Peas 

Pink and Rose 

Trailing 

Plants 

All summer 

Any ordinary soil. 

•Liatris. 

Gay Flower 

Rose and 
Purple 

3 ft. 

July 

Sunny location; grassy linear leaves; 
ordinary soil; spikes of rosy- 
lavender flowers. 

Lythrum Roseum. 

Loosestripe 

Rose 

3 to 4 ft. 

June and July 

Does well in any good rich soil; in 
any location. Forms huge clumps, 
so allow plenty of room; tall 
spikes of rose flowers. 

Matricaria. 

White 

2 ft. 

June 

Rather low growing for border. 

Feverfew 



•Monarda— Bee-Balm.... 
didyma rosea 

Rose-red 

4 to 5 ft. 

June and July 

Forms big clumps; any good garden 
soil; sun or partial shade. 

Monarda. 

purpurea 

Lavender 

4 to 5 ft. 

June and July 

Forms big clumps; any good garden 
soil; sun or partial shade. 

•Oenothera. 

(Evening Primrose) 

Y ellow 

2 to 3 ft. 

June to Septem¬ 
ber 

Sunny, rich soil, though will grow 
on limestone, rocky hills. 

Peonies. 

Various 

3 ft. 

May 

Shade from afternoon sun; rich 
soil. Do not plant too deep. 

Pentstemon. 

Any variety 

Bluish Laven¬ 
der &. Scarlet 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

Foxglove-like in shape; any good 
garden soil; full sun. 

Pinks. 

Mixed 

HA ft. 

May 

Easily grown; full sun. 

Pinks (Dianthus). 

Mixed 

HA ft. 

May 

Easily grown; full sun. 

•Phlox— Hardy. 

Various 

Shades 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Very rich soil; do not cultivate too 
close to plant; water freely; shade 
from afternoon sun. 

Phygelius Capinsis. 

Cape Fuchia 

Scarlet 

2 to 3 ft. 

June 

Pentstemon-like flowers on tall 
stems; sunny location matures; 
hot, dry weather. 

•Physostegia . 

virginiana 

Pinkish- 

Lavender 

3 to 4 ft. 

August 

Sunny location; tall spikes. 

Platycodon— Balloon 
flower (graniflora) 

Blue 

3 to 4 ft. 

July and August 

Well-drained location; leave in 
same location indefinitely. 

Pyrethrum. 

Mixed 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 

Any location; rich soil; plenty of 
water in dry weather. 

Rudbeckia— hortensia.... 
(Goldenglow) 

Y ellow 

5 to 6 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Free flowering; sunny location; ex¬ 
cellent cur flowers. 

•Rudbeckia— Coneflower. 

Purple 

3 ft. 

July 

Purple coneflower. (See page 73.) 

(purpurea) 

Blue 

Blue 

Blue 

Blue 

'Orchid 



•Salvia. 

1. azurea. 

2. farinacea. 

3. Pitcheri 

4. leucantha 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

3 to 4 ft. 

4 to 5 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Sunny location. 

Santolina. 

Y ellow 

8 to 12 in. 

May 

Sunny location. 

(Lavender Cotton) 

Mixed 


tScABIOSA. 

2 to 3 ft. 

June and July 

Well drained; sunny location; good 
rich soil. 

Sedum. 

Mixed 

1 to 2 ft. 

Aug. and Sept. 

Sunny location; well-drained soil. 

Statice. 

Purplish Blue 

1 Aft. 

June and July 

Sandy loam; sunny location. 

Stokesia. 

cyanea 

Blue 

18 in. 

July and August 

Well drained; sunny location; sandy 
loam; put ashes around crown 
in winter. 

Free flowering; sun or semi shade. 

Sweet William. 

Mixed 

14 in. 

April 

Thermo psis. 

Yellow. 

2 to 3 ft. 

End of May 

Lupine-like plant. 

caroliniana 



Valeriana. 

officinalis rubra 

Rose 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and most all 
summer. If faded 
flowers in Septem¬ 
ber, cut off. 

Dry summer border; prefers limy 
soil. 

Veronica. 

Blue 

2 to 3 ft. 

May and June 
most all summer. 

Good ordinary soil. 


fRequires Special Care. ’Native. 


PERENNIALS GROWN IN NEW MEXICO 


Achillea 

Ageratum 

Anthemis 

Campanula persicifolia 
Petunias 


PI aty codon 
Statice 

Shaster Daisy 

Valerian 

Veronica 


•Artemesia 

•Gaillardia 

•Physostegia 

•Phlox 

•Verbena 


This information was furnished by Professor Adlai Feather of State College, Mesilla Valley, New Mexico. 


-4 44 — 





































HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


45 


PEONY CULTURE 

Another perennial that we were taught would not grow in the 
South is now well established in many small, as well as large, gar¬ 
dens. It only requires a little added attention, and that very little, 
for the Peony, after once planted in the right location and in a 
thoroughly prepared bed, asks to be undisturbed (except for a 
little fertilizer added now and then) for years. Plant where it will 
be shaded from the hot afternoon sun, and always plant Peonies 
in the fall. 

Dig a hole about one and one-half to two feet deep."* Mix sand 
and leaf loam with your soil. If one prefers using stable manure, 
place it at the very bottom of the hole in which you plant your 
Peony. Cover the manure with some of the topsoil, so that it does 
not touch the large root of the plant. If Peonies are planted too 
deeply, they will form large bushes but will never bloom. Set them 
so that the dormant buds are covered with earth only to a depth of 
from one-half to one inch. This insures freezing of the roots in 
the winter time, a very essential requirement of the Peony. 

During the winter, water the beds well about once a month. 
This moisture takes the place of the winter snows of the East. 
Every fall and spring fertilize with bonemeal, worked into the soil 
with a little trowel, not too close to the plant. Once or twice a year 
sprinkle a little lime on the soil around each plant, and water in. 

DELPHINIUM 

Delphiniums, although most temperamental, can be raised even 
in our extreme climate. Some find that they are best treated as 
annuals and planted each fall. They must be planted in the fall in 
this climate, and in a very rich soil, for they are gross feeders. If 
manure is used, put it a foot or two under the soil in which they 
are planted,* for either cow or sheep manure causes root-rot if 
close to this plant. The best fertilizers to use are bonemeal or 
Vigoro. 

Dig soil about eighteen inches deep and spade under sand, peat¬ 
moss and tobacco dust. Then put in the plants, but do not plant 

♦Editorial Note:—Although most beautiful. Delphinium and Peonies are difficult to grow 
in the Southwest, while Dahlias are as great a problem in some sections. 


Choice of 
Location 
for 

Peonies 


Time to 
Plant 


Preparation 
of Beds 
for any 
Perennial 


How to 
Plant 


Moisture 

Needed 


How to 
Treat 

Delphinium 


Planting 

Directions 



46 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Where to 
Plant 


Soil 

Require¬ 
ments of 
Dahlias 


Division 
of Tubers 


How to 
Plant 


Water 

Required 


Stakes 

Needed 


too deep. Do not cover the crowns. Every spring and fall scatter a 
handful of lime around each plant and a week or so later a hand¬ 
ful of bonemeal and some hardwood ashes. Coal ashes put around 
the crowns in the fall help protect the plants during the winter 
months. Water thoroughly about twice a week in the summer. 
When summer heat comes, mulch the bed with several inches of 
sand. 

Delphiniums should be planted in a bed on the east side of the 
house, for they need to be protected from the afternoon sun. If you 
have plenty of room in your garden, a lath-covering, as used in 
California, is an effective protection from afternoon sun. 

DAHLIAS 

With Dahlias, as with all other plants, to have large beautiful 
blooms and healthy growth, the soil must be properly prepared. 
Cow manure or a well-balanced commercial fertilizer should be 
thoroughly worked into your soil a month or more before plant¬ 
ing. Then respade your bed and plant. Be sure that you have good 
drainage. 

In the spring when danger of frost is over, cut your clumps of 
tubers apart with a sharp knife (being careful not to break the 
neck of each and leaving a sprouting eye to each tuber). Plant 
these separately, leaving the topmost part of the sprout from one 
to two inches below the surface of the ground, the deeper planting 
being recommended for the northern sections of the Southwest. 

To plant the tuber, lay it on its side with the sprouting side 
up. Cover with a handful of sand and fill the hole with two inches 
of moist topsoil. Space your tubers about three or four feet apart. 

Do not water much, for this causes decay, but cultivate the soil 
slightly, so it cannot bake. The time to water or fertilize freely is 
when the flower-buds appear. 

When planting, always insert your stake slightly to one side, 
because a Dahlia stalk should be tied as it grows to protect it 
against winds. When the tuber has sent up several sprouts, cut 
away all but one stalk, forcing the strength of the plant into the 
one development. 


HOSTS OF GAY FLOWERING PLANTS 


47 


In order to produce large blooms, disbudding is resorted to. This 
consists of the removal of the two side-buds in each group of three. 
If commercial fertilizer is now used, place it six or eight inches 
away from the stalk and water it in. This will force maturity. 

To store Dahlia tubers, for the winter, cut the stalks to within 
a few inches of the ground in the fall after the first frost and leave 
this way for about ten days. Then dig up the tubers very carefully. 
Place them in the open, where it is dry, for a few days. Now place 
the entire clump in dry sand, in a dry basement, where it is neither 
too warm or too cool, and leave until spring. Dahlias may be grown 
from seed. (See page 96.) 


Disbud 

for 

Large 

Flowers 


Winter 
Care of 
Tubers 


Valerie Schoellkopf Moore. 


Origin 


Japan’s 

National 

Emblem 


Classi¬ 

fication 

and 

Name 


Early 
Intro¬ 
duction 
Into Europe 
and America 


Chrysanthemums 

o know the history of the origin of the Chry¬ 
santhemum i6 not at all necessary to its successful production. But, 
rich with age and legend, it holds a certain fascination, and stimu¬ 
lates the desire for a more intimate knowledge of a flower that 
survives, not only because of its history, but because of its beauty 
and charm. 

The Chrysanthemum originated in China, being mentioned as 
early as the time of Confucius (in his Li-Ki) and it was developed 
to its present state of beauty by both Chinese and Japanese flo¬ 
rists. Japan even adopted this flower as its national floral emblem. 
It was introduced into Europe about 1790, being sent to England 
by Mr. Cels, a French gardener. 

At the time that the first Chrysanthemums were being shown in 
Europe, the botanists had difficulty classifying this new bloom. 
Some said it belonged to the Anthemis family, while others con¬ 
tended it was surely of a Pyrethrum genus. Finally it was agreed 
to call it "Chrysanthemum” from "Chrysos” meaning golden and 
"Anthos” meaning flower. Well named, it is too, for of all flowers 
can you think of a more cheerful one than this "Queen of Au¬ 
tumn?” 

The pompom variety, one of the hardiest types, has sprung from 
the blending of two small flowering varieties of the "Chusan 
Daisy”, introduced by Mr. Fortune in 1846. The French gave them 
the name Pompom because the pompom on the soldiers* cap re¬ 
sembled the flower so closely. To Peter Henderson goes the dis¬ 
tinction of introducing the Japanese varieties into America, others 
following him in rapid succession. 

The types, varieties and colors have increased immeasurably, and 
success in their cultivation has become so certain that choice of 


48 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 


49 


variety becomes really a matter of one’s taste. It is wise, however, 
to remember that for exhibition purposes, of the three varieties— 
Early, Early Mid-season and Late—use only Early or Mid-season 
varieties for outside planting. For garden varieties, this rule does 
not apply, for any variety selected may be used there. 

It is most important to use nothing but the healthiest plants, as 
there are so many things to guard against, i. e., overforced, side 
shoot plants, over-fed, midge-infected and stem-rot. So the first 
recommendation is to be sure of your stock. 

As to soil, regardless of the location, acid soil, limestone soil or 
semi-acid soil, the Chrysanthemum will do well if the soil is prop¬ 
erly prepared before planting. ’Mums are gross feeders and must 
have fertile soil. The roots, too, are near the surface, hence require 
generous watering, but good drainage. Soil should be fairly heavy 
rather than too sandy, equally composed of two parts of black dirt 
(or topsoil), one part well-rotted cow fertilizer, one part sandy- 
clay loam, thoroughly blended. Where possible, beds should be 
raised six inches above grade to allow for drainage, as this helps 
to keep the ground from becoming sour. If one has very poor soil 
to deal with, just dig a little deeper so that your carefully prepared 
rich soil will be available in greater abundance to nourish these 
greedy feeders. In planting, it is advisable to have them twelve 
inches apart in each row and the rows at least twelve inches apart 
or more if possible, as ’Mums need good air circulation on all sides. 

Adequate means of support are necessary and should be pro¬ 
vided at the time of planting, as it is not a simple matter to do if 
delayed until they need supporting. Any number of ways is avail¬ 
able, such as wire (or frame) stakes, bamboo rods, etc. 

Liquid fertilizer, made from fresh cow manure is applied (see 
page 11) every ten days until the color begins to show, begin¬ 
ning only after the plants have attained twice their original height 
at time of planting.* In using liquid fertilizer, first water the 
plants thoroughly, wetting all the foliage and soak again imme¬ 
diately after fertilizing. If this plan of watering before and after 
is not followed, the liquid fertilizer is apt to burn the roots and 
foliage. 

♦Editorial Note:—If garden varieties are given heavy feeding, a dressing of cow manure, 
preferably in late August, though maybe as late as last of September, a wealth of bloom 
rewards. 


Many Types 
Have been 
Evolved 


Select 

Plants 

Carefully 


Soil 

Require¬ 

ments 


Location 


Support 


Fertilizer 



50 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Protection 


Disbud for 

Large 

Flowers 


Watering 


Pests 

Insects 


Stem Rot 


Old 

Fashioned 

Varieties 

Again 

Popular 


For garden purposes, protection is rarely provided; but, after 
the buds begin to show color, it is vital, for exhibition purposes, 
to keep dew and rain and frost off the beds. The plants can stand 
very low temperature, but the frost and dew, particularly, are 
injurious to the buds. 

Disbudding, tying, watering all come in for their share of atten¬ 
tion regularly and much depends on this regularity. Disbudding 
(or pinching off all buds on a stem except those designed for 
maturity) is regulated by the number of blooms desired on a 
plant. For bedding purposes, little disbudding is absolutely neces¬ 
sary, but for exhibition purposes, it is essential to confine the 
number of buds left on the plant to about two blooms. Disbudding 
must be done continuously to insure success. 

Watering must be done unstintingly. A thorough watering, 
using a pretty stiff pressure, is most beneficial and necessary to keep 
the leaves free from dust, to keep the plants healthy and to help 
control Aphis, Red Spider and Mealy Bug. Care should be used 
not to wet the buds that are showing color. 

There are several insect pests and diseases that must be guarded 
against, so that the foregoing hints on culture, if followed, leaves 
only two or three more dangers to combat. The hardest to control 
is Mealy Bug which attacks the leaves, and the Black Aphis which 
sucks the sap from the tender shoots. Both are controlled by two 
teaspoonful of Black Leaf 40, or "Nicotfume.” (See page 221). 

Midge, or Stem Rot, is not to be controlled by spraying or in¬ 
secticide. Pull up any plants affected and destroy by burning and 
applying a light application of hydrated lime to the soil where the 
plant was pulled. "Quasol”, diluted to specific directions is also 
helpful. Midge or Stem Rot is the Chrysanthemum’s worst disease. 
It shows itself only at blooming-time (by turning a sickly yellow 
and wilting overnight). 

The original Chrysanthemum, as it was introduced, was of the 
hardy type but for many years the florists’ variety has completely 
overshadowed the old-fashioned kind. The trend of taste is swing¬ 
ing back now to give the original single and pompom style an 
equal chance and many gardens will again be graced by the cheer- 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS 


51 


ful flowering of the “Pyrethrom Aureum” or Golden Feather, 
“Anthemis Coronorium ,, or summer Chrysanthemum, “Arctotis 
Grandis” or African Daisy and the many, many varieties of Pom¬ 
poms, besides other members of the Compositae. 

Japanese folklore lends to the “Queen of the Autumn” an inter¬ 
esting legend of its origin which surrounds it with an atmosphere 
of romance. One beautiful moonlight night a young girl, wander¬ 
ing in a garden, gathered a blossom and began to pull off the petals 
one by one to see whether her lover cared for her or not. Suddenly 
a little elf stood before her and, after assuring her that she was 
passionately adored, he added, “Your love will become your hus¬ 
band and will live as many years as the flower you may choose has 
petals.” He then disappeared and the maiden began her search for 
a flower which should have the greatest number of petals. At 
length she picked a Persian Carnation and with a gold hair pin she 
separated each petal into two or three parts. Soon her deft fingers 
had increased the number of folioles of the corolla to three times 
the original number and she wept with joy to think of the happi¬ 
ness she had been the means of assuring her future husband. And so 
the Ki-Ku, as the Japanese call it, was created hundreds of years 
ago in a garden with the moon shining over the flowers, the streams 
and the little bamboo bridges. 

Minnie L. Marcus. 


CASCADE CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

A most interesting effect can be gained by training a certain 
type of Chrysanthemum to grow downward, making a shower 
effect, and forming what is called Cascade Chrysanthemums. There 
are a number of varieties susceptible of being trained in this man¬ 
ner, particularly those with small daisy-like blossoms, for it is the 
multitude of blossoms that create the shower effect. 

Among these Takamakie, yellow; Shoji, red; Sakurogari, laven¬ 
der; Momo-Nonaka, pinky salmon; Mikageyema, white; make 


The 

Japanese 
Legend 
of the 
Chrys¬ 
anthemum 


Varieties 


52 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


medium-sized plants; while Kiho, yellow; Entei and others make 
larger specimens. 

When the plant is about twelve inches high, place beside it a 
wire stake, or light flexible bamboo rod, four or five feet long, at 
an angle of forty-five degrees. Tie the main shoots to this and 
keep the lateral growth pinched off, except the six or eight run¬ 
ner-branches that are to be allowed to mature. Gradually lower 
the rod until the buds appear, when the support must be removed, 
allowing the plant to fall downward in a shower, sometimes as 
much as six or eight feet, taking extreme care not to snap the brit¬ 
tle stems. 

To secure uniform development an even distribution of light 
over the plant should be controlled, by placing it beside a wall 
with the support pointing north. After the buds appear a southern 
exposure is needed to bring them to their proper maturity. 


Editors. 


Acid-Loving Plants 


he hardwood forests of the South and West are the habitat 



X of many plants that must be most carefully nurtured else¬ 
where. Among these are the Dogwood, Rhododendrons, Cypripe- 
diums or Lady Slippers, Azaleas, Camellias, Mountain Laurel, An¬ 
dromeda, Blueberry, Tar Flower, Pitcher Plants, Sundews, Sweet 
Bay, Bayberry, Ink or Gallberry, and many others, all of which 
will thrive in soil that is properly prepared. 

Azaleas are one of the most difficult plants to grow success¬ 
fully in all sections of the land, due to the fact that they demand 
the superlative degree of acidity in the soil in which they are to 
grow, and wherever lime, even in small quantities, is present the 
life of any, especially this, acid-loving plant is endangered. There¬ 
fore those precautions that are taken to exclude the seepage of 
lime into the acid-soil bed (see page 14) are particularly advised 
when one attempts to have Azaleas in calcareous soil. 

In sections where sand or clay is the predominant soil, the depth 
to which the hole that is to receive the acid-loving plant is to 
be dug varies from eighteen to twenty-four inches, dependent 
on the degree of compactness of the soil. Light sandy soil requires 
the removal of at least twenty inches more, a deeper hole. Break 
up the subsoil for about a foot in depth, and add to it acid, peaty 
soil, and some clay. Acid, peaty soil may be secured by various 
means, as natural muck (from marshes); peat-moss (in bales, 
usually); leaf-mold (from under hardwood trees such as Oak, 
Hemlock, Sweet Gum, Maple, Magnolia, Hickory, Cypress and 
some cedars); well-rotted wood, bark or sawdust of these trees, to 
which is added some peat-moss and cottonseed meal. Clay soil 
should be removed at least two feet in depth, forked well for at 
least ten inches deeper, and sand, together with the necessary acid, 


Some 

Acid-loving 

Plants 


Precaution 
Necessary 
in Lime 
Soil 


In. Sandy 
Soil 


In Clay 
Soil 


53 


54 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Special 

Soil 

Mixture 


Acidity 

Test 


Drainage 

and 

Protection 


peaty soil, as above, added to bring it to the consistency of good 
loam. Both sand and clay, therefore, require about the same treat¬ 
ment, the chief difference being in the depth to be removed, for the 
proportions of the mixture to be replaced is the same. 

This special soil mixture may be estimated as follows: one part 
cottonseed meal to three parts sand, to which is added ten parts 
peatmoss, or acid leaf mold, or muck; and six parts rotted hard¬ 
wood or bark of above named trees. Finely ground Sphagnum moss 
often is used without any mixture of soil. Or, another combination 
that is used, is one part clay, one part sand, and one part leaf- 
mold (acid) to two parts peatmoss. Aluminum sulphate also may 
be spread over the surface (one-half pound to each square yard, 
approximately) and raked into the ground; or hemlock extract 
or tannic acid are satisfactory. However, the aluminum sulphate is 
indispensable as a safe, quick means of supplying and maintaining 
acidity in the soil, the correct degree being determined by blue 
litmus paper turning red after being placed (covered) in the soil 
for thirty minutes. The soil is then acid enough. (See page 14). 

All acid-loving plants are exacting, also, in their requirements 
of adequate drainage. In some situations an elevated bed, some¬ 
times on a gentle slope, is needed to obtain the best results from 
the plant. Yet care should be taken not to locate them in a spot 
that is too well-drained and dry. It is suggested that, as their habi¬ 
tat is usually in woods, a certain amount of shade and protection 
is their preference. 


Editors. 


Annuals for a Season 



he ideal garden contains a balanced proportion 
^of the various kinds of plants suitable to its 
special location. Shrubs for backgrounds and in those 
spots where dignity and strength are needed; bulbs 
for early blooming and later to supply the beauty and 
elegance that only the Lilies can give; and perennials 
for constancy and dependability of bloom. Yet no garden can 
be independent of the Annuals. 

The gardener with forethought selects a sheltered but sunny 
spot where, early in the spring, the seeds are planted, or if space 
does not permit, prepares the seedpans or "flats”, knowing full well 
that when the bulbs die down or for some unforeseen reason the 
best-loved perennials wither and die, these cheerful, quick-growing 
little plants will brighten the bare places. Petunias, that can supply 
one with almost any color desired; the Chinese Forget-me-not 
(Cynoglossum) with its sprays of lovely blue flowers; Verbenas 
and the Eschscholtzia, best known as California Poppy (which 
can be transplanted with care) are a group of rather low-growing 
plants most dependable for the reserve supply. 

Annuals can be found to supply almost any need. An entire 
garden can be arranged using only this type of flower. But to do 
this, one must carefully plan the arrangement, and study the height 
and time of blooming of each variety to be used. 

The beds and borders must be prepared the fall preceding the 
year of bloom; for many seeds, such as Larkspur, with its double 
flowers of white and shades of blue and pink; Cornflower, or 
Batchelor Buttons, the newer of which includes a wide range of 
color; and all type of Poppies, and annual Phlox (Phlox Drummon- 
dii) should be planted in the fall, that they may make sufficient 


The Ideal 
Garden 


Reserve 

Seedlings 


Petunias 


Annual 

Forget- 

me-not 


Wide 
Variety 
of Choice 


Prepare 
Beds for 
Larkspur 

Poppies 

Phlox 


55 



56 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Save 

Special 

Seed 


Phlox 


Larkspur 


For 

Spring 

Planting 


Cosmos 


Fall 

Annuals 


root-growth to insure a long period of blooming. Once planted, 
most annuals will drop their own seeds, and will not need replant¬ 
ing for several years. After that, the flowers seem to deteriorate, 
and fresh, new seeds should be secured. Select only the largest and 
finest blossoms, mark them and allow them to mature for seeds. 
By keeping all other seedpods removed, the plant will bloom longer 
and more profusely, the season will be prolonged, and the undersir - 
able types will be eliminated. 

Phlox, one of the first of the annuals to blossom, continues to 
flower until early summer. It is most effective if a large area is 
provided where shades of but one color are used ... as the lightest 
tones of pinks shaded to red. Do not buy packets of mixed seeds. 
The selected colors give better results, larger blossoms and more 
true to shade. 

Larkspur in drifts of pink and shades of blue give a marvelous 
effect. The double varieties are almost as lovely as their cousins, 
the temperamental Delphinium. Red Poppies, and blue and white 
Larkspur are lovely growing together, but the Poppies must pre¬ 
dominate. 

There are a whole host of lovely flowers whose seeds may be 
(see page 90) planted in the spring in the place they are to 
occupy all season, although many of these do not resent being 
transplanted. Clarkia and annual Scabiosa are most interesting, but 
they are as yet not very well known. 

A number of the annuals are specially valuable because they can 
be made to flower at various times. Cosmos planted in the fall will 
bloom much earlier than if the seeds are sown in the spring. Calen¬ 
dula is equally adaptable. Other plants can be found that have a 
number of varieties that bloom at various seasons. Stocks, Coreop¬ 
sis and Asters exemplify this type. 

Snapdragons often live through the winter, so are in effect per¬ 
ennial, but are not really dependable as a garden flower, because 
they are very tender and subject to disease (and attractive food for 
bugs). 

Painted-leaf, or annual Poinsettia, and Kochi are good substitutes 
for shrubs, while Four o’Clocks, annual Hollyhocks, Bush Morn- 


ANNUALS FOR A SEASON 


57 


ing Glories, and a large spidery plant called Cleome, give height 
where desired. Cleome has a profusion of odd, rather pale, blossoms 
that need to have lavender and red-purple petunias beneath them 
to enhance their delicate beauty. 

It is difficult to recognize a number of the old garden favorites, 
for the new varieties are so much larger, their season of blooming 
is longer, and even the range of color has been enlarged. Candytuft 
and Sweet Alyssum divide honors with annual Ageratum and gar¬ 
den Pinks (Dianthus) as border plants. 

Nasturtiums continue to hold first place in the hearts of new 
gardeners; they give the greatest profusion of gay blossoms when 
planted in new, rather poor soil. The tall-growing varieties require 
more space, unless given a support over which they may be trained, 
yet their reward for the extra care is an abundance of much larger 
and more colorful blossoms than to be secured from the dwarf 
varieties. 

Marigolds are good to plant among them to carry the bloom¬ 
ing season into the fall, as they have the same coloring. The bril¬ 
liant tones of the autumn leaves are often reflected in the blossoms 
of the late blooming annuals. Noticeably among these are the vivid 
red Cockscomb (Celosia), the Zinnias and the orange Klondike 
Cosmos. 


ZINNIA CULTURE 

Just as every family boasts of one outstanding member, so the 
Zinnia must be the pride of the whole tribe of annuals. It is the 
one outstanding plant to be used for all purposes. It can be planted 
early, to be a part of the spring border, or the seeds may be sown 
in the reserve bed to fill in the bare spaces. In late May it can be 
planted among the Larkspur and Poppies to surprise one with 
blossoms soon after the other plants have been pulled out. Or the 
seeds may be placed where they have some shade, during July and 
August, for the late season’s flowering. 


Border 

Plants 


jf 


Vivid 

Nasturtiums 


Fall 

Colors 


Versatility 
of the 
Zinnia 


58 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


When to 
Feed 


Wide 
Choice 
of Colors 


Of Many 
Heights 


When Zinnias are several inches high, the ground may be loos¬ 
ened and a fertilizer added to nourish the plants, to encourage them 
to produce larger and better blossoms. 

The fact that the Zinnia, like the Gladiola, rarely fails to bloom 
six weeks after planting, makes it invaluable to the gardener. The 
blossoms that were merely tolerated in days gone by because of 
their harsh colors have been so cultivated until now the loveliest of 
shades can be secured to harmonize with every color scheme. 

There are varieties to supply every need; very tall bushes with 
enormous blossoms that rival the Dahlias, and even a low-growing 
type with exquisite miniature flowers! 

Yet, with all its good qualities, few people really love the Zinnia. 


Editors. 


Vines and Trailing Plants 

^T^estful corners, gay arbors and sheltered nooks, or the wel- 
V come shade of a lacy trellis—all suggest clambering green 
things, sometimes studded with flowers, sometimes rich with berries 
or fruit, often merely one of the soothing tones of green. One may 
choose from the host of possibilities a Climbing Rose instead of a 
Vine, or a Honeysuckle, that also must be trained, may appeal or 
be more suitable in coloring and fragrance for a special purpose 
than one of those plants that cling. The range of choice in the 
field of climbers is as varied as is that of any other classification of 
plants. 

If early bloom is desired, with accompanying deep shade in sum¬ 
mer and fall, the Wisteria’s delicate panicles of lavender or white, 
one of the first flowers to appear in the spring, come before the 
leaves are scarcely out. The Jasmines, in variety, range in color 
from white to yellow, while Clematis may be had in white, rosy- 
carmine, and deep, rich purple. These all are most successful when 
small plants are secured, rather than try to grow them from seed 
or cuttings. Moonvines that are tubers and the gorgeous Mexican 
Morning Glory, too, should be gotten from the nurserymen. An 
old-fashioned favorite, the delicate-flowered Madeira vine, with its 
showers of white stars, and the fall-blooming, rosy-carmine ra¬ 
cemes of the Queens Wreath (known also as Mexican Love-Vine, 
the Antigonon leptopus, Rosa de Montana, or Coral Vine) are 
tubers which require protection in the northern part of our sec¬ 
tion of the country. (See page 97.) 

Most of the Morning Glories (Ipomeas, in variety), the mem¬ 
bers of the Pea family that climb (Sweet Peas, etc.), the Runner 
Beans and the Kudsu Vine all grow from large seed that give best 
results if soaked in water over night before planting. They range 


Choice in 
Vines 


Securing 

Small 

Plants 

Advised 


Tubers 


Soak 

Large 

Seed 


59 


60 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


To Secure 
Small 
Plants 
Recom¬ 
mended 


Non- 

Flowering 

Vines 


in color almost the round of the color-wheel. Our native Passion 
Flower or Maypop, with its lovely blue flowers, is as easily grown 
from seed as the Mimosa or Sensitive Plant with its delicate puff 
balls of rose, or yellow. 

Balloon Vine (Love-in-a-puff, or Hearts-East), the native Coral 
Bean and the Dwarf white Morning Glory, thrive here in their 
native habitat, reseeding themselves. Everlasting or Perennial Peas, 
the Dolichios (Hyacinth or Jack Bean), Weeping or Trailing Lan- 
tana, Thunbergia and Dutchman’s Pipe are all grown easily from 
seed. 

The Silver Lace Vine is a vigorous grower that gives best results 
from small plants. Its showy sprays of white are as effective as the 
Cobaea (Cup and Saucer Vine, or Cathedral Bells), which, like 
the Balsam Apple, and the Balsam Pear, grow rapidly and well 
from seed. A curious fact about the Cobaea is that in planting the 
seed must be placed edgewise, and be merely covered with light 
soil. The Canary-Bird Vine with its sprays of yellow, unusual 
flowers that are so valuable as decorations for they keep so long 
after cutting, also grows rapidly from seed. Our native Woodbine, 
or as it is better known, Trumpet Vine, with its orange-scarlet or 
yellow flowers is of vigorous, though woody growth, and flourishes 
in almost all conditions, growing best, however, from small plants. 

Another native plant that is very ornamental, used often in 
decorating, is the small and shiny-leafed Smilax that climbs high, 
so can be secured in very long sprays. Gourds and grapes in variety 
are also decorative both in leaf and fruit, being especially effective 
on arbors and trellises. Boston Ivy and English Ivy have no fruit 
or flowers and are of slower growth; while the Virginia Creepers 
(Engelmanni, quinquefolia and heptaphylla), the latter the na¬ 
tive Texas variety, grow rapidly and differ from each other large¬ 
ly in size of leaf. All these grow best from small plants, not seed, 
and are valued for their foliage, and in the color range of tones, 
or in the fall-coloring of their fruit or berries. 


Margaret Scruggs. 


VINES AND TRAILING PLANTS 


61 


VINES 

(not native) 


Antigonon leptopus (Queerts Wreath 
or Mexican Love Vine) P. 
Rose-scarlet, pea-like sprays, blooms in 
the fall. 

Rosa de Montana, also Coral Vine. 

Balsam Apple (Momordica 
Balsamina) S. 

Fine green leaves; apple-like fruit. 
Balsam Pear (Momordica Charantia) S. 

Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis tricuspidata 
veitchi) P. 

Shiny leaves; no flowers. 

Butterfly Runner Bean S. 

Rose flowers. 

Canary bird Vine (Tropaeolum Canari- 
ensis) S. 

Yellow flowers. 

Cardinal Climber (Ipomea Quamoclit 
Hybrida) S. 

Star-shaped scarlet flowers. 

Cobaea splendens alba S. 

Bell-shaped purple flowers. 

Confederate Jasmine 
(Trachelospernum) P. 

Star-shaped white flowers. 

Clematis paniculata P. 

White flowers. 

Cypress climber 

(Ipomea Quamoclit) S. 

Star-shaped red and white flowers. 

Dutchman’s Pipe 

(Aristolcchia sipho) S. 

English Ivy 

(Hedera gracilis and hedera helix) P. 
Waxy leaves, no flowers. 

Gourds in variety S. 

Ornamental climbers. 

Grapes in variety P. 

Ground Ivy (Creeping Charlie) 

"Gill on the Ground” (Nepeta) 
Ground Myrtle (Vinca Minor) P. 
Ground cover; blue flowers. 


Honeysuckles in variety (Loneera) P. 
White and yellow, red and orange 
flowers. 

Jack Beans 

(Colichos or Hyacinth Bean) S. 
Clusters purple and white flowers. 
Jasmine nudiflorum P. 

Yellow flowers. 

Jasmines in variety P. 

Madeira ( Mignonette) 

(Boussingaultia basilloides) 

Tuber; delicate white flowers. 
Moonflower S. 

Large white flowers. 

Morning Glories in variety S. 

Rose, blue, white flowers. 

Morning Glories blue (Ipomea rubro- 
caerulea) and Mexican Blue S. 

Blue flowers. 

Perennial Pea (Lathyrus) P. 

Lavender-rose flowers. 

Petunia 

Semi-climber; many colors in flowers. 
Pueraria (Japanese Kudzn) S. 

Rosy purple flowers. 

Scarlet Runner Beans 

(Phaseolus multiflorus) S. 

Scarlet flowers. 

Silver Lace Vine 

(Poly go don Auberti) 

Small white flowers in clusters. 

Thunbergia S. 

Yellow-orange flowers. 

Weeping Lantana S. 

Semi-climber; lavender flowers. 

Winter Creeper (Euonymus 

radicans or Euonymus kewensis) P. 

Wisteria chinensis P. 

Sky-blue flowers. 

Wisteria magnifica P. 

Pale lavender blue flowers. 


Legend: S.—Grows from Seed; P.—Secure Small Plants. 



62 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


NATIVE VINES LISTED IN COMMERCIAL CATALOGS 


Legend: S.—Grows from Seed; P.—Secure Small Plants. 


Name 

Color 

Remarks 

Ampelopsis heptaphylla (Tex¬ 
as Virginia Creeper) quin- 
quefolia P. 

Flowers greenish and incon¬ 
spicuous; berries dark blue, 
in clusters. 

Very attractive to all the 
birds. 

Balloon Vine (Cardiosper- 
mum halicacabum), Love- 
in-a-puff or Heart’s Ease. 
S. 

Flowers white. 

Prefers moisture. 

Bignonia (Trumpet Vine) or 
Woodbine. P. 

Flowers orange-scarlet, vig¬ 
orous, woody growth. 

Flourishes under all condi¬ 
tions. 

Clematis coccinea (Viorna), 
“Red Leather Flower”. P. 

Flowers red, hidden in very 
thick foliage. Native. 

Grows in shade; limestone re¬ 
gions or riverbottoms. 

Coral Bean (Erythrina her- 
bacea). S. 

Flowers scarlet. 


Evovulus (White Trumpet 
Vine) Sericeus. S. 

Dwarf Morning Glory. Flow¬ 
ers solitary, grows in dry, 
open places. 

Poor soil. 

Mimosa (Sensitive Plant) 
fragrans. S. 

Borealis, Western variety; sti- 
gillosa, Gulf Coast. Flowers 
pink, fuzzy balls, similar 
to huisache and yellow 
balls. 

Grows on dry, gravelled 
limestone hills. 

Passion Flower (Passiflora) 
"Maypop”. S. 

Flowers dark blue. 

Will grow in arid regions. 

Portulaca (Flowering Moss) 
Ground cover trailer. S. 

Flowers rose, red, blue, yellow 
and lavender; leaves fleshy. 

Will grow in arid regions; 
does not climb. 

Rattan Vine. P. 

No flowers. 

Very prolific grower. 

Smilax. P. 

An evergreen with small, 
shiny leaves, used for deco- 

Climbs high. 


rating. 








VINES AND TRAILING PLANTS 


6 3 


NATIVE BULBS AND TUBERS 


Name 

Color 

Remarks 

Allium Helleri and Allium 
mutabile. 

Loose umbel of white and 
pink florets. 

Grassy foliage. 

Anemone decapetala (Wood 
Violets). 

Pale blue; grow under oaks 
and elms. 

Found in pockets of limestone 
rocks; good for rock gar¬ 
dens. 

Androstephium coerulurum 
(Wild Hyacinth). 

Light blue Daffodils; some¬ 
times pale violet; leaves 
longer than Camassias, but 
flowers taller-stemmed. 

A low plant; good for rock 
gardens. 

Betony (Pedicularis). 

Purplish-bronze flowers; deli¬ 
cate, fern-like foliage. 

Early Spring blooming; ex¬ 
cellent hillside plant. 

Callirhoe pedata (Poppy Mal¬ 
low). 

Cherry red or deep wine; 
poppy-like flowers; gay on 
hillsides. 

Prefers sunny location. 

Callirhoe Lineariloba. 

Pinkish Lilac or white. 

Trailing; withstands drought. 

Camassia Fraseri (False Hya¬ 
cinth). 

Pale violet or blue flowers; 
lovely in clumps. 

Found on well-drained slopes. 

Camassia hyacinthiana. 

Sky blue flowers. 


Clatonia virginica (Spring 
Beauty). 

Flowers in pink racemes. 

Found thriving where the 
Dogwood grows; Lady slip¬ 
pers might grow there too, 
if tried. 

Dodecantheon Meadia 

(Shooting Star) or Ameri¬ 
can Cyclamen. 

Rose white flowers. 

Grows with Spring Beauties. 

Dodecantheon albesceus. 

Lavender and rose flowers. 


Erythronium americana 
(Dogtoothed Violet). 

Yellow. 

Grows in shade. 

Erythronium albidium. 

White. 

Grows in shade. 

Erythronium coloratum. 

Rose-colored. 

Grows in shade. 

Liatris punctata (Blazing 
Star) or Gay Feather. 

Purple plumes on upright, 
tall spikes. 

Grows well in dry, poor lo¬ 
cations, in sun. 

Viola missouriensis. 

Tufted, large, pale blue 
flowers. 


Viola Rafinesque (Hearts¬ 
ease). 

Tufted, darker, pansy-like, 
blue flowers. 











64 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


LILIES NATIVE TO SOUTHWEST 


Atamosco (Copper Lily) 

Dainty, single blossom on one stem. 
Should be planted in colonies, two or 
three inches deep. 

Allium Palmeri 

Rose-colored flowers. 

Allium cernuum 

“Fairy pearls,” white. 

Allium Deserticola 

White with purple midrib. Chooses 
open places, often poor rocky soil. 

Cooperia Drummondi 

Similar to penduculata. Blossoms later 
in the fall and habitually after rains. 


Cooperia pedunculata (Rain Lily) 
or Fairy Lily 

White flowers on stems from six to 
twelve inches. 

Cooperia prairia or Field Lily 

Multiplies both by seed and bulbs. 

Nymphaea Microcarpa 

Native Water Lily or Yellow Pond 
Lily. 

White Lily (Zygadenus Nuttallii or 
Toxicoscordion Nuttallii) 

Grows from one to two feet high with 
numerous small white blossoms on 
branched stem. Prefers well drained 
hillsides, often rocky. 


NATIVE IRIS IN COMMERCE 


Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
varians ) 

Violet-blue flowers. Central Texas 
variety. 

Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
pruinosum) 

North Texas variety. Good for rock 
gardens. 

Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
exile ) 

Gulf variety. Sandy soil. 

Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
coluhrifernum ) 

East Texas variety. Sandy prairies. 

Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
longepedunculatum ) 

West Texas and Mountain variety. 


Blue-Eyed Grass (Tisyrinchium 
minus) (Dwarf) 

East Texas variety. Moist prairies. 

Celestials (Nemastylis acuta) 

Grass-like leaves, pale blue flowers, six 
to twelve inches. 

Celestials ( Nemastylis coelestina) 

Grass-like leaves, pale blue flowers, 
denizens of both the prairies and woods. 

Iris fulva 

Found in East Texas. Reddish brown 
flowers, variegated blue or green. 

Iris hexagona 

Violet blue flowers variegated with 
purple, yellow and white. 

Iris pumila 

An exotic. 



Southwestern 

Native Plants 


^ong has the colorful Southwest been noted 
for its wealth of beautiful wild flowers. 
This vast region presents a continuous pageant of bloom from 
early Spring until frost tinges the leaves many hues and the bril¬ 
liant Winter-berries gleam on the hillsides and prairies. 

One of the first explorers in the sixteenth century, writing home 
marveled at the natural beauty of the land and its abundance of 
plant growth. Tradition says these sixteenth century Spaniards and 
French Crusaders brought to this land, from the Holy Land, the 
lovely blue Lupine, our "Bluebonnet”. It has, since, carpeted the 
land, and, like the verdant hills of its native Syria, is freely inter¬ 
spersed with golden-yellow Daisies, Buttercups, Coreopsis, rich 
scarlet "Wine cups”, and brilliant red tree-cypress (Texas Plume). 

In many cases it is still rather difficult to determine the habitat 
of some of our most widely scattered plants. It has been argued 
that armies surging back and forth for the past four hundred 
years have scattered the seed in transporting food for their cavalry. 
Freight-trains, too, traveling the length and breadth of our prairies, 
have transported seed in the grain, and packing, in their strings 
of boxcars. 

Later, in the first part of the nineteenth century, thousands of 
seed and plants, native to the Southwest, were collected, mounted 
and shipped to the great botanical centers of the world by Berlan- 
dier, Drummond, Charles Wright, Lindheimer, Lincceum, Fendler, 
von Roemer, Prince Paul of Wiirtemberg, Edward Buckley, Wisli- 
zenus, Jacob Boll, John Drinker Cope and Julien Reverchon, work¬ 
ing for such internationally famous botanists as Dr. Asa Grey of 

65 


Continuous 

Bloom 


Appreciation 

by 

Botanists 


66 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Source of 

Many 

Varieties 


Tor 

Detailed 

List 

Refer to 
Other Books 


Compara¬ 
tively Few 
on the 
Market 


Harvard, Dr. George Engelmann of St. Louis, Prof. Louis Agassiz, 
Prof. William J. Hooker of Glasgow (later Sir William Hooker of 
Kew) and other great European collectors and experimentalists. 

Today, more than most people realize, many of those flowers 
most treasured by gardeners in every land have been developed from 
the wild denizens of our prairie country. A few varieties remain 
just as they were first seen in Nature’s Garden, while others have 
been superseded by more attractive hybrids, whose colors and man¬ 
ner of growth are often quite different from the parent stock. 

Probably our best known, most appreciated flower is the Phlox 
Drummondii, the seeds of which were introduced by Drummond 
into Europe in 183 5. The flowers of one of the two distinct groups 
of these annuals are more rounded, while those of the others form 
tiny stars. The several plants vary also in height (being dwarf, in¬ 
termediate, and tall), and in the range of their colors. In popu¬ 
larity, the Gaillardia is second only to the Phlox. Marked effects of 
cultivation, however, are seen in its size and form, although noth¬ 
ing of its brilliant coloring has been lost. 

Because of the fact that plants indigenous to a country will 
thrive better there than will any importations, an effort has been 
made to secure a comprehensive list of those that are offered in the 
catalogues of commercial growers. The more detailed descriptions 
of all the numerous native plants and shrubs may be found in 
several excellent books that have recently been published; others 
are in the process of compilation; while some deal only with those 
plants which grow within a radius of two hundred miles, due to 
the fact that there is such a wealth of material within any specified 
locality. 

Yet, with all this wealth to draw from, it is amazing how few 
of the native plants are on the market. The potential value to the 
gardener of these sturdy bushes and flowers that are so peculiarly 
adapted to climate and soil conditions is only beginning to be 
appreciated. 

W. A. Bridewell of Forestburg, Texas, who has spent thirty years 
studying native Southwestern plants, says: 

"A fact now known to many gardeners is that our natives are 


SOUTHWEST NATIVE PLANTS 


67 


much more adaptable than xerophytic plants from other countries. 

“Another fact unrecognized is that Texas probably has more 
bulbous-rooted wild flowers than any other state in the Union. 
So far as I know, the Fern, Cheilanthes tormentosa, is found in 
no other state; and we have the finest Amsonia to be found any¬ 
where. 

“We have the largest assortment and the most brilliant bloomers 
of the great family, Euphorbiaceae, except South Africa. 

“Our Cacti also are wide in range. 

“Our Wild Plums are the finest to be found. 

“The exquisite Southern Maidenhair Fern, Adiantum Capillus- 
Veneris, is more plentiful here than anywhere else; and the same 
is true of the purple cliff-brake, Pellaea atropurpurea. 

“In Eustoma Russellianum we have the most gorgeous-flowered 
Gentian known, and in Sabatia Campestris, and Erythraea Beyri- 
chi the most brilliantly colored. 

“Our native Barberry, Berberis trifoliata (Agarita) is evergreen, 
and grows where those from Asia and the Pacific Coast wither 
and die. 

“We have the largest assortment of Gay Feathers, Liatris punc¬ 
tata, scariosa, squarrosa and pycnostachya. 

“The finest Lobelia, Lobelia splendens, reaches a development 
that is finer here than in other parts of the West. 

“In Penstemmon grandiflora and Penstemmon Cobaea 
we have the biggest and finest on earth. 

“Our Salvia Pitcheri is the finest hardy sage known and 
our Rosa foliolosa is the only wild rose fit for a rockery. 
“In Ephedra we have one of the strangest plants 
known, and it comes to us from prehis¬ 
toric times unchanged. 

“In one thing only I have to haul down 
the Texas flag. The New Mexico Phlox 
Mesoleuca is one 
of the finest na¬ 
tives on earth, 
and undoubted- 



Camassia 


Chinodoxia 


Anemone 


Desert 

Plants 


Bulbous- 

Rooted 

Plants 


Spurge or 

Rubber 

Pamily 


Gentian 


Barberry 

Gay 

Feather 

Lobelia 

Penstemmon 

Salvia 

Ephedra 


Phlox 




6 8 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Conditions 

Required 


ly the finest Phlox for rockeries. It bears clear pink, white-throated 
flowers, as big as silver dollars, blooms all summer long and the 
plant is so small you can cover it with your two hands. It may 
possibly lap over into West Texas, but I know of none coming 
from there.” The Phlox Drummondii, the Texas native named for 
Drummond, who sent it from our prairies to the botanical centers, 
is one of the garden favorites of the world. 

Many of the plants listed by commercial growers are perennials 
that thrive in sandy, lime-impregnated loam; in unobstructed sun¬ 
light; where there is positive drainage and sufficient water in the 
early period of their growth to insure adequate root-growth. Then, 
practically "all of these plants will endure temperatures ranging 
from fifteen degrees Fahrenheit below to one hundred and twelve 
degrees above , and humidity that varies from muggy rainy years to 
desert-like dryness”, such as experienced in 1930-31. 

TRANSPLANTING 

It is many times expedient to transplant native plants, that is, 
where there is great abundance and sufficient roots, or seed that 
will assure the continuance of natural growth; or where the plants 
would be destroyed in the path of construction, or building activi¬ 
ties. When this is true, the following rules should be carefully 
observed. 

First: An effort must be made to give the plant the same type 
of soil it has enjoyed in Nature’s garden, remembering that many 
times wild things thrive only in close proximity to other wildlings, 
including those that surround the plant, and dig deep enough 
that the taproot (should there be one) is not injured or broken, 
lifting the clump out as a whole. 

Second: See that the plant is given the same amount of sunshine 
or shade to which it has been accustomed. 

Third: Transplant wildflowers, or shrubs, at the same season 
that it is advisable to move like varieties of cultivated flowers. 


SOUTHWEST NATIVE PLANTS 


69 


TO PRESS SPECIMENS 

In lieu of a special Botanical Press when on field expeditions, 
experience has proved that the best manner to preserve specimens 
is to place them in wet newspapers, turning in the ends of the 
paper to exclude the air until they can be transferred to fresh, dry 
newspapers, and be placed under heavy weights. Carefully lay out 
the specimen to show the flower, or that characteristic specially 
desired (passing a slightly heated iron over the paper covering it, 
is suggested as an aid in preserving color) before placing under 
pressure. 


Editors. 


*Native Plants* 


ANEMONE (decapetala) Windflower 

This, one of the daintiest of our flowers, 
was named for Anemos, the Wind God 
of the Greeks. Soon after the Dog¬ 
toothed Violet in the early spring, we 
may expect to find this flower under 
trees, by the wayside or even in a sunny 
pasture. "Rising directly from the ob¬ 
long tuberous root are one to several 
slender three-forked leafstalks, with 
three leaflets at the end of each fork” 
(Schultz). The slender flower stalk 
coming from the cluster of root leaves, 
each bearing a circle of deeply cut, 
leaf-like bracts midway between the 
blossom and the ground. The lovely 
flower about an inch across has twelve 
sepals and petals, is sometimes pink 
underneath, varies in color from white 
to blue or bluish purple. They like 
partial shade and a rich, loamy soil. 

ASCLEPIA (tuberosa) Butterfly Weed, 
Pleurisy Root. 

This is our most beautiful milkweed 
and has a wide distribution over the 
country. Its rough, hairy, leafy stems, 
- usually erect, spring from a deep tuber¬ 
ous root. They branch at the summit, 
bearing umbles of bright orange flowers. 
They like the soil of meadow and road¬ 
side, and sun. Unlike most of the fam¬ 
ily, the juice is not milky. It attracts 
butterflies, especially the Monarch, and 
the Indians thought it had medicinal 
qualities, so used it to cure pleurisy, 
hence, its two common names. Asclepia 
is from the Greek God of Medicine, 
Asclepius. 

ARGEMONE (alba) Prickly Poppy or 
Mexican Poppy 

This is a rather tall branching stout¬ 
stemmed plant with long, prickly, pale 
green leaves. The flowers, from two t* 


four inches across, have delicate broad, 
white petals and yellow centers, and are 
very beautiful. They are annuals, but 
in our gardens a plant often lives 
through the second summer. They en¬ 
joy good soil and in return will give an 
abundance of bloom. They reseed them¬ 
selves. 

BOLTONIA (asteroides) 

False Chamomile 

This tall, fall-blooming plant has nu¬ 
merous wiry branches, and each small 
one tipped with a white, aster-like 
flower. Given a good soil and moisture, 
its mass of flowers and graceful form 
will more than pay for the little care 
it requires. There is also a pink variety. 

CALLIRHOE (involucrata) 

Poppy Mallow, Wine Cup 

This bright, showy perennial comes 
from a tuberous root, liking best good, 
loamy soil and some shade. It is a 
trailer, has long petioled leaves, deeply 
cleft. The five petaled, fringed, wine- 
colored flowers are borne on long stems 
from the axils of the leaves. Planted in 
a bed two feet apart, they cover the 
ground and make a lovely picture. 
Callirhoe is from Greek mythology and 
the name of a spring in Athens. 

CENTAUREA (americana) 

Basket Flower 

A fine native annual, bearing large, al¬ 
most flat rose-lavender, thistle-like 
blossoms. It grows about three feet high 
and has coarse leaves. It is used with 
other bedding plants, but makes the 
finest display in a bed or row. It bright¬ 
ens our fields and waysides, where seed 
may be gathered in the fall. 


*See page 3 3. 


70 


NATIVE PLANTS 


71 


COREOPSIS ( grandifiora) 

This perennial is very well-known and 
prized for its hardiness, easy culture, 
and for the beauty and profusion of its 
bright yellow blossoms. Cultivated in 
rich soil, the flower is much larger and 
the stem longer than those growing 
wild. 

COREOPSIS (tinctoria) Calliopsis 

The Calliopsis of catalogues is our an¬ 
nual Coreopsis tinctoria. It is tall and 
graceful with many wiry branched 
stems. The leaves are divided into sev¬ 
eral long, narrow segments. The flow¬ 
ers, composed of several yellow petals 
with red-brown base and yellow center, 
are an added attraction to our gardens, 
and are fine for cutting. The seed may 
be sown in the spring. 

ERYNGIUM (leavenworthii) 

Sea Holly 

This very handsome fall plant is abund¬ 
ant on roadsides and fields. It has deep 
purple oblong flower heads, ornament¬ 
ed on the tip with four, spiny purple 
bracts. The leaves are lanceolate, deep¬ 
ly cleft and spiny. Cut at just the right 
time, they retain their color and are 
much used for winter bouquets. 

EUPHORBIA ( corollata) 

This is a deep-rooted perennial with 
simple stem, more than half its length. 
It usually has five branches which are 
forked through to five times, and each 
one of these is two to three forked. The 
flowers are not pretty, but the invol¬ 
ucre, on a long stem, has showy white 
appendages (resembling petals), making 
a graceful and attractive plant. The 
branches are fine to use as a filler with 
other flowers. All gardens are familiar 
with the annual Poinsettia, but all may 
not know that its name is Euphorbia 
heterophilla, and that it is a native 
Texas flower. The common name is 
Painted Leaf. 

EUPHORBIA (marginata) 
Snow-on-the-Mountain 

These erect, stout-stemmed annuals, 
branching on the upper half of the 
stem, are most attractive in the fall. 
The leaves are oblong, ovate and sessile. 


The upper ones margined white, form a 
rosette in the center of which the in¬ 
conspicuous flower umbles appear. Seen 
massed on a hillside one understands 
the suggested common name. 



EVENING PRIMROSE FAMILY 

( Oenothera) 

This family is well represented in 
Texas, as many as twenty specie grow¬ 
ing in the vicinity of Dallas and Fort 
Worth. Megapterium missourieneses (or 
Fremonti) is a familiar sight on lime¬ 
stone hills, sending its large roots deep 
into the soil. The four large yellow 
petals flare from a yellow tube four or 
five inches long. The stems are a bright 
red, the leaves long and narrow. This 
perennial is a valuable addition to any 
garden, needing only a little lime of 
bonemeal occasionally—or, better still, 
its preferred limestone soil. 

Hartmannia ( rosea) 

This is very similar to Hartmannia 
Specinas, except the pink flowers and 
plant are smaller. Both multiply by 
root and seed and should not be in a 
bed with other perennials. 

Hartmannia (speciosa) 

This plant is the most showy of the 
group of Primroses, as the very dainty 
large white flowers, opening near the 
tip of the erect branches, almost cover 
the foliage. At least this is true in good 
garden soil, as they respond wonder¬ 
fully to cultivation. The leaves are 
lobed and the buds nodding. 

GAILLARDIA (pulchella) 

These bright colored biennials often 
grow in great patches, reminding one of 
the favorite colors of the Indians. This 
composite has a brown center surround¬ 
ed by orange and red rays. They like 
full sun and open meadow. In one’s 
garden they are lovely planted with 




72 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


yellow flowers. If the soil is not dis¬ 
turbed, self-sown seed come up in the 
fall to bloom the next spring. They 
bear the name of a botanical amateur, 
Gaillard de Charentonneau. 

HELIANTHUS (Maximiliani) 

Named for the ill-fated emperor, Max¬ 
imilian of Mexico, this is one of our 
tallest sunflowers, growing sometimes 
eight feet. The very strong stalk does 
not branch but has many long, narrow 
leaves. Coming from the upper part of 
the stalk in the axils of the leaves are 
the flowers, borne on very short 
branches or stems, very similar to the 
Hollyhocks. The large flowers are a 
golden-yellow, long petaled and showy, 
remaining in bloom a long time. This 
likes rich garden soil. 

HELIANTHUS (mollis) 

Growing about four feet, this plant has 
downy foliage, lemon-yellow flowers 
and blooms earlier than H. Maximiliani 
and thrives in good garden soil. 

LIATRIS (lacinaria punctata) 

Blazing Star, Gay Feather 

The erect, very leafy stems, from ten 
to eighteen inches high, spring from a 
perennial tuberous root. The lavender- 
rose flowers develop and bloom on the 
upper part, of the stem as the tip grows. 
This forms a beautiful spike, lasting 
over a long period. 

LOBELIA (cardinalis) 

Cardinal Flower 

This exquisite, intensely red flower has 
a wide distribution, but is rare in Dal¬ 
las County. Like Physostegia and Phlox, 
it is a perennial by offsets. The flowers 
are usually in bracteal racemes. It is 
found in low grounds, even in water. 
Eastern florists all list this as Cardinal 
Flower. The name is from a Flemish 
herbalist, Matthias de l’Obel. 

LUPINUS (texensis) 

Texas Bluebonnet, Buffalo Clover 
This, our Texas State Flower and a 
prominent member of the pea family, 
is known and admired by everyone who 
is fortunate enough to see a hillside 


covered with their beautiful blue 
blossoms. Too rich soil and too much 
water causes rank foliage growth at the 
expense of flowers. They bloom best in 
well-drained soil, in full sunshine. 
They are most attractive in a bed 
alone. An interesting suggestion is to 
plant seeds or plants in the lawn, a 
corner set apart for them. To allow 
them to reseed themselves, the plants 
must be undisturbed until the seed pods 
have popped open, thus scattering seed 
for next season. After this, the old 
plants may be pulled up and the lawn 
mowed. Plants may be bought in the 
spring, but seed should be soaked in 
water all night before they are sown. 
For best results this should be done no 
later than September. 

It is said our Bluebonnets will not 
grow across the Texas border, also that 
fields of them disappear. We are not 
sure about the first, but the last state¬ 
ment is true. The Bluebonnet is an 
annual depending solely on its matured 
seed for preservation of the specie. If 
all flowers or pod bearing branches are 
destroyed or young plants eaten or 
trampled by stock, a most beautiful 
hillside of this flower may be "re¬ 
moved” in a season. 

THE MINT FAMILY 

Salvias (sage) 

There are many natives of this family 
in the Southwest. Salvia farinacea, Blue 
Meadow Sage, grows in fine clumps in 
open fields or roadsides. The stems com¬ 
ing from the root are two feet high 
and terminated by spikes of blue in¬ 
florescence. When the flower drops, the 
soft-hairy lavender bracts persist in 
giving added attraction. 

This sage blooms early and long. 

Salvia Picheri 

Salvia Picheri grows much taller than 
farinacea; has larger, brighter green 
leaves, less grey; blooms in late sum¬ 
mer; the flowers are larger and are sky- 
blue in color. This is beautiful planted 
in a bed with Goldenrod. 

Salvia Greggii (hardy salvia) 

This is a small shrub-like plant of 
West Texas. It has small bright green 


NATIVE PLANTS 


73 


leaves on rather wiry stems. The flowers 
are a beautiful shade of red. It should 
be severely pruned each season, for best 
results. With very little attention it 
blooms through the summer. It is fine 
for the front of the border, but should 
have sun at least half a day. The name, 
Salvia, is from salvare, to save, in allu¬ 
sion to the reputed healing qualities of 
Sage. The ballotaeflora is the blue- 
flowered variety, the mint-scented 
leaves being dried for seasoning meats, 
etc. 

PENSTEMON (Cobaea) 

Beards-Tongue or Dew Flower 

This plant, sending several stout, erect^ 
shiny stems from the perennial root, 
has glossy leaves and bears in the upper 
leaf axils light lavender to purplish 
bell-shaped flowers. The two-lipped 
corolla one and one-half inches long, 
has pretty purplish markings within. 
They are found in pastures or open 
fields, preferring limestone soil. They 
seem to grow or multiply slowly, and 
have been ruthlessly destroyed in many 
sections. The common name is "Wild 
Canterbury Bells” in certain localities. 

PHLOX (pilosa) 

Among our daintiest flowers is this 
perennial Phlox. It likes rich loamy soil 
and partial shade and multiplies rapidly 
in our gardens. It is said that this Phlox 
has been sold under the name of a 
Northern specie. 

PHLOX (Drummondii) 

This Phlox is quite like the Phlox pilosa, 
but is an annual. This is the parent 
from which the first seed came, that 
has resulted in the distribution of an¬ 
nual Phlox over this continent and 
other countries as well. Phlox divari- 
cata, a perennial, prefers rich neutral 
or slightly acid soil and semi-shade. 
Phlox subulata, also a perennial, is also 
an excellent ground cover and blooms 
profusely. 

PHYSOSTEGIA (virginiana) 

An upright, wandlike, square-stemmed 
perennial, growing three to four feet 
high. The leaves are long, narrow and 


toothed. The lower ones are slightly 
purple tinged. The lavender-pink, pur¬ 
ple-veined, two-lipped tubular flowers 
are borne in terminal spikes. They grow 
in mud of lowlands, or ditches or along 
streams. 

PHYSOSTEGIA INTERMEDIA 

( speciosa) 

This perennial is more vigorous every 
way than the preceding. The flowers 
are larger and are a deeper pink. Florists 
list Physostegia virginiana in an im¬ 
proved form, but Intermedia is much 
the most desirable of the three. 

RUDBECKIA (purpurea) 

Giant Cone-Flower, Dreer says, is in¬ 
dispensable in the hardy border, thriv¬ 
ing anywhere. The leaves are parallel, 
veined and quite hirsute. The large cone 
is brown and the ray flowers rose-pur¬ 
ple, long and drooping. They bloom 
after the first spring flowers are gone 
and last a long time. Rudbeckia pallida 
is similar, but has narrower ray flowers. 

SOLIDAGO (altiosima) 

This, one of the tallest of the family 
of Goldenrods, has bright green, lanceo¬ 
late, slightly toothed leaves. The gold¬ 
en-yellow flowers on stout stems or 
branches, are in graceful recurved 
racimes, which form a rather broad 
pyramidal panicles. The flowers last a 
long time and are beautiful, liking sun 
and rich soil. 

Solidago radula is one of the smallest 
of the Goldenrods, growing only about 
fifteen inches high and has yellow 
plume-like inflorescence. The leaves are 
rigid, rough and the upper ones small 
and sessile. These plants prefer rich soil. 
They do well in full sunshine, or partial 
shade. They are very attractive planted 
with blue Ageratum. 

TEXAS PLUME (Gilia rubra) 

Tree Cypress 

This plant is very brilliant and very 
showy. It resents being domesticated. 
The genus is named for the Spanish 
Botanist, Philip Gil. 


74 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


TRADESCANTIA (virginiana) 

Spider Wort 

Named for Tradescant, a gardener to 
Charles I of England. The leaves are 
flat, long and lancelinear. The purplish- 
blue flowers in umbeled clusters, two 
or three opening each day, are freely 
produced over a long period. This 
specie likes partial shade and a rich, 
loose soil. 

TRADESCANTIA (humilis) 

This plant is nearly stemless, with 
rather short leaves, narrow and ribbed, 
sometimes folded and grasslike. The 
flower cluster comes from two leaf¬ 
like bracts at the end of a flower stalk. 
The petals are a purplish-blue. The 
fragrance, the purple stamens and gold¬ 
en anthers, add to the charm of this 
perennial, which grows well in good 
loamy soil. However, it is to be found, 
in its native haunts, growing under dif¬ 
ferent soil conditions. 

YUCCA (treculeana) Spanish Dagger 
This Yucca has a large, stout trunk, 
sometimes attaining a height of eight 
feet. It generally branches and each 
branch has a head of dark green, sword¬ 
like leaves. From the center of this 
comes the stalk bearing creamy-white 
blossoms. It is picturesque and useful 
where the Spanish atmosphere is de¬ 
sired. Miss Schulz says the Mexicans 
gather these leaves while green, soften 
them over a flame and strip off the 
edges. These are then tied together and 
dried to be used to tie cornstalks, oat 
bundles, etc. They also gather the 
blossoms and cook them as we would 
mustard greens. They grow even in 
poor soil. 

HESPERALOE (parvi flora) Red Yucca 
Ramsey says: "This member of the 
Yucca family is one of the rarest plants 


in existence and native of a limited 
area in West Texas and Mexico.” Its 
long gracefully recurving, narrow 
leaves grow somewhat irregularly, but 
form an attractive large clump. From 
this comes one or more (according to 
age of plant) very long, curving stalks 
or scapes, bearing most of the summer 
coral-red flowers. Like all Yuccas it 
likes sun and not too much water and 
thrives with little care. For grouping 
or in the shrub border it is to be highly 
recommended. 

DASYLIRION (texanum) 

Saw Yucca, "Sotol” 

This desert plant has the most attrac¬ 
tive foliage of any in this group. The 
inch-wide dark green leaves are toothed 
and spiny, about two feet long, rather 
rigid, standing in every direction, mak¬ 
ing a very symmetrical clump. From 
the center of this the very tall flower 
stalk rises. But it is not for this the 
plant is most prized. Its leaves retain 
their fine color and symmetry all 
through the year and, given full sun¬ 
shine and any good soil, it will thrive. 

YUCCA (filamentosa) Adam’s Needle 
This is probably the most popular 
Yucca and is sold in the East extensive¬ 
ly. Somewhat broader than the others, 
the sword-like leaves are not so rigid. 
The main beauty of the plant is the 
wonderful flower stalk. Rising from the 
leaf clump to a height of four to six 
feet, it branches from the upper half. 
The stem and branches are laden with 
exquisite gracefully drooping, bell¬ 
shaped creamy-white flowers. This 
grows well in any good garden soil, re¬ 
quiring little attention. The clump is 
not as attractive in the winter as Dasy- 
lirion. 


Anna Hearne Newbury. 


0 0 0 



Color 

the Secret of Charm 


garden that expresses or emphasizes a single 
dominant thought or feeling has been judged 
the height of garden art. It may be quiet or bold—-unassuming or 
gay—florid or demure—in fact, the range is as wide as the com¬ 
plexity of emotional appeal suggests. With the season, its mood 
may be refreshingly varied, yet preserve intact its dominant char¬ 
acteristic—that which is indicative of its designer’s personality. 
All the possibilities from the flamboyance of exuberance, thru 
gayety, to quiet repose or the subtle suggestion of tranquil con¬ 
tent, register an appeal to the senses thru combinations, or shades, 
of color. 

In adapting that fact which the Orientals have long recognized— 
that is, that green is the color which engenders repose and relaxa¬ 
tion from tension—wise Southwestern gardeners provide expanse of 
lawns and vine-covered arbors or trellises, as well as shade-trees and 
groupings of shrubs for boundary or foundation-planting. When 
one chooses a garden of predominant green, a certain graceful dig¬ 
nity is always present, which requires that width of paths, borders 
and central grass-plot which creates the illusion of, or is in actual¬ 
ity, spaciousness. 

Since far objects appear hazy, the smoky grey-green foliage of 
plants like Leucophyllum (Senesa) register distance; while, by 
placing subdued, tho deep, tones nearest the windows of the house, 
and strong virile ones at commanding intervals emphasis may be 
brought in relative force on near and far objects, and perspec¬ 
tive lengthened. Rich dark-green-foliaged plants, especially those 
with stiff geometrical outlines, when spaced within regular rows of 

75 


Power of 
Color 


Green 

Engenders 

Repose 

and 

Relaxation 


How to 

Create 

Perspective 


76 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Gardens 
of One 
Dominant 
Color 
Limited 
in Variety 


Some 

Suggested 

Color 

Treatments 

in Tones of 

Yellow 


planting that are edged by a precision of line, tend to create greater 
formality and at the same time constrict the apparent size of the 
garden, rather than enlarge it. 

Altho shades must blend to create harmony, points of con¬ 
trast are needed to excite interest, and lure one to unexpected 
beauty spots. Paths must blend in tone, ground-covers must be un¬ 
obtrusive, and the general panorama, to be aesthetically pleasing, 
must offer both appeal and promise. 

Many favorites must be rejected when a garden of one color 
only is chosen. There are some plants, such as Roses or Zinnias, that 
offer one a range of color-choice that enables almost any desired 
shade to be selected, yet neither offers the blues or the blue-red 
combinations on the color-wheel, that is to say, the range from pale 
lavenders to deep purples. And the chief plants that offer these sel¬ 
dom include the yellows. In fact the white, yellow, red and blues, 
in their range of blends from one into the other are perhaps to be 
found only in the Iris or the Hardy Aster families. Of the Lilies, 
only those of the water-growing branches include the blues, reds, 
white and yellow. So a single-color garden is necessarily limited 
in variety and is restricted to those families of plants that offer 
what is desired. 

Definite color treatments for a season or 
merely for a corner of portion of the gar¬ 
den, are not difficult to secure. If one wishes 
to have a yellow and green garden from 
Spring until frost, one may have Narcissus, 

Daffodils, Jonquils, Tulips, Pansies, Dog¬ 
toothed Violets, Hyacinths, Forsythia and 
Jasmine humile early, followed by sweet- 
scented Scotch Broom (Genista), California 
Poppies, Hemerocallis (Lemon and Orange 
Lilies), Wall-flowers, Gladioli, Cactus Opuntia (Prick¬ 
ly Pear), Daisies, Columbine, Lemon Phlox, Santoline, 

Iris, Cassia and Nasturtiums. Both Bush and Climbing 
Roses offer shades of yellow and most of the bush varie¬ 
ties bloom again in the fall. The Snapdragons, Oenoth- 



COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 


77 


eras (Evening Primrose) Water lilies, Trumpet Vines and Zinnias 
begin blooming early in the summer and continue until frost. 
Helianthemums, Helianthus and Helioposis begin to flower in the 
early fall and are followed by Lantana, Marigolds, Calendulas, 
Klondike Cosmos and many kinds and shades of yellow and orange 
Chrysanthemums. 

For a garden of blue, Scilla (Squill), Muscari (Grape) and other 
Hyacinths, Pansies and Bluebonnets (Lupinus texensis) come early. 
The dainty Blue-eyed Grass, Cornflowers, Iris and Larkspur begin 
blooming about the same time. The Clematis and the star-like Pas¬ 
sion flowers first show among their curling tendrils. Picture a white 
frame house with snowy picket fence, amass with heavenly blue 
Cornflowers, the sole blossom during its season of bloom! Petunias 
and Verbenas, long spikes of Veronica, exquisite Tropical Water- 
lilies, several varieties of the graceful grey-foliaged Blue Salvias 
and Plumbago; the Vitex and Japanese Morning Glories begin 
blooming in the early summer, and to their ranks are joined, early 
in the fall, the fluffy-plumed Ageratum and the thorny Eryngium. 

Shading toward red come the lavenders and purples. Earliest in 
the spring the lovely Wisteria droops its panicles of blue-lavender 
over Violets and many tones of Pansies and Hyacinths. Sweet Peas, 
Candytuft and pale lavender double Poppies, Penstemon Cobaea, 
many tones of Iris and Columbine, Alyssum, Phlox and Gladioli— 
all pastel tones of delicate beauty—bloom throughout the spring, 
while Physostegia virginiana (False Dragonhead), with Trailing 
Lantana, Senesa and Verbenas carry these pastel shades throughout 
the fall months. Liatris (Blazing Star) is a deeper hue and is one 
of the glories of the fall gardens, together with the many shades 
that tie the blue purples into the reds found in the fall-blooming 
Hardy Asters (Michaelmas Daisies), and Chrysanthemums. 

Brilliant red in the spring is the Standing Tree-Cypress, often 
called Texas Plume, gay and compelling, as outstanding as the fiery 
Cockscomb of the fall. Gaillardia (Indian Blanket or Firewheel) 
is as vividly red and yellow from spring until frost as is another 
native plant, the Poinciana, a graceful shrub with feathery foliage. 


Tones of 
Blue 


Lavender 

and 

Purple 

Blossoms 


Red 

Flowers 


78 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Rose and 

Vink 

Shades 


Rose 

Tones 


Blooming late in the summer comes the unusual Spider or Guernsey 
Lily and the wine-cups of the Hybranthus Lily and the native 
Primrose. The Cypress vine and the Scarlet Runnerbean carry the 
reds on the trellises while Portulaca (Flowering Moss) carpets the 
ground from early summer until late fall. Kochi and Poinsettia are 
brilliant foliage-plants, the former turning its gayest after frost, 
while the latter is fatally sensitive to a breath of cold air. Agarita 
(our native Barberry), with our native Holly and Yaupon are 
cherished all through the winter for their brilliant red berries, 
while Sumac (Rhus) flames when October nights bring frost. 

Certain plants may be had both in the bright or dull reds and 
in the paler rose tones. Among these are the Tulips, Amaryllis, Iris 
and Flowering Almond which bloom in the early spring. Gladioli, 
Sweetpeas, Phlox, Tropical Waterlilies, Pyrethrum (Painted 
Daisies) and Climbing Roses bloom valiantly until the heat of 
summer descends. Bush Roses that blossom twice, together with 
Altheas (shrubs), Zinnias, Crape Myrtle, Touch-me-nots and Snap¬ 
dragons are lovely throughout summer and fall. 

In the rose tones only are the early blooriling Bleeding-Heart 
and Flowering Peach. Weigelia soon follows and the double rose 
Tulips, Poppies and Larkspur bloom together. The pink Crinums 
come in the late summer with the Speciosum Lily, and are followed 
closely by Cleome, the Sedums and that lovely vine known as 
Queen’s Wreath. 

White flowers for purity and moonlight! What could be daintier 
than the early spring Snowdrops (Galanthus), Rainlilies, Snowflakes 
(Leucojum vernum), or the trailing Star Jasmine! Pure white 
hyacinths perfume the air that is wafted over them. Spirea, or 
Bridal Wreath, trails long graceful sprays over low- 
growing Pansies. Delicate Baby’s Breath (Gypsophi- 
la), single Poppy-cups, large and small, golden-cen- 
tered Daisies, all are brought by Spring. The revered 
White Flag (Iris Florentina), beloved for ages by 
the Mohammedans, precedes Regale, Easter and Ma¬ 
donna Lilies. The tall Hollyhocks, double and single 
in variety, Larkspur, Gladioli, Achillea, Mock Orange, 







COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 


79 


Cosmos, Queen’s Lace and Elders lift their lovely sprays of bloom 
above the lowly Candytuft and Phlox. Sweetpeas and Moonvines 
climb the walls and arbors, while Four o’Clocks, Snow-on-the- 
mountain, Magnolias, Alyssum, Snapdragons, Petunias, Verbenas, 
Abelias, Roses, Crinum, Yuccas — that open their bells in the 
moonlight—and Zinnias bloom in early summer and most of them 
continue through till late fall. Datura (Jimson Weed) blossoms in 
late summer and is closely followed by the fragrant old-fashioned 
Tuberose and the Mexican Prickly Poppy. These, in turn, give way 
to the various members of the Chrysanthemum family. After 
every rain dainty Rain Lilies flower and Waterlilies float their 
wax-like cups in their beauty of perfection. Old-fashioned night¬ 
blooming Cereus and Jasmine lure one into the garden on warm 
nights, lest their exquisite loveliness be missed—they pass with the 
kiss of the sun. 

Charming as are single-color schemes, the fascination of color 
combinations intrigues most people to experiment with them rather 
than practice that rigid selectiveness which is invariably necessary 
to insure success with one shade or tone. Yet to obtain the most 
pleasing color combinations, particular attention to the relation¬ 
ship of our strong yellow light to flowers must be carefully con¬ 
sidered. Certain shades are most difficult to place in harmony with 
the rest of the garden. Magenta tones are best in half shade. In 
fact, most of the reds are so insistent that, in general, it is wisest to 
use them sparingly. Against the tropical planting demanded by 
the Spanish-type house, modified and adapted to the requirements 
of the Southwest, reds appear to best advantage. Deep rich red 
Poppies accented by a few spikes of blue Larkspur, Scarlet Lobelia 
cardinalis, or Gilia ruba, Texas Plume, rising from a haze of Plum¬ 
bago Capensis are as effective as Scarlet Salvia amidst pure white 
Alyssum. A bed of rose and purple Petunias are as rich in tone as 
Bluebonnets with annual Scarlet Phlox. Cannas are best grouped 
alone. Dusty Miller, sheltering the delicate grace of the Spider, or 
Guernsey Lily, is an ideal combination. 

It has been long accepted that most flowers show best against 
neutral or light shades. Therefore, the pastel tones are most effec- 


A Wide 
Choice 
of White 
Blossoms 


Combina¬ 
tions of 
Colors 
Fascinating 


80 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


The Fit¬ 
ness of 
Color 
Placing 
Emphasized 


tive in combination with a colonial cottage because of the use of 
cream or white paint on the building. There is also a fit less in 
placing delicacy of coloring against lacy foliage, gaining variabili¬ 
ties through texture and heights rather than by the contrasts of 
rich, warm colors accented by, or accenting, paler tones. 

Sometimes when a definite color scheme, or special treatment is 
desired for a corner, or portion of the garden, certain color-tones 
blended, or a single shade varied only by the texture and tone of 
leaf; or height of plant, it is helpful to have a list of tested shrubs, 
vines and flowers arranged for quick, ready reference. 


Editors. 

















81 


COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 
Flowers Listed for Color and for Special Purposes 


A GARDEN OF WHITE 


Abelia 

Jasmine Cestrum 

Regale Lily 

Alliums 

(Night Blooming) 

Roses 

Alyssum 

Larkspur 

Snapdragon 

Apache Plume 

Lilac 

Snowballs (Viburnum) 

Astilbe 

Madonna Lily 

Snowdrops (Galanthus) 

Baby’s Breath (Gypsophilia) 

Magnolia 

Snow Flakes 

Candytuft 

Mock Orange 

(Leucojum Vernum) 

Chrysanthemum 

Moonvine 

Snow-on-the-mountain 

Cosmos 

Mullein 

Spirea 

Crinum 

Morning Glory 

Star Jasmine 

Daisies 

Pansies 

Stock 

Datura (Jimson Weed) 

Petunias 

Sweet Peas 

Dahlias 

Phlox 

Touch-me-not 

Four o’Clocks 

Poppies, including Prickly 

Tuberose 

Erythronium 

Portulaca 

Tulips 

Gladioli 

Queens Lace 

Verbenas 

Hardy Hydrangea 

Rain Lilies 

Wisteria 

Hollyhocks 


Yarrow (Archillea) 

Hyacinths 


Yucca 

(Paper White, water, etc.) 


Zinnia 



A GARDEN OF YELLOW OR 

ORANGE 

Achillea 

Heliamthemum 

Oenothera 

Ascelepia Tuberosa 

Huisache 

(Evening Primrose) 

Cactus (Opuntia) 

Helianthus 

Orange Lilies 

Calendula 

Heliopsis 

Pansies 

Galliopsis 

Hemoracallys (Lemon Lily) 

Phlox (Light) 

Cassia 

Hyacinths 

Poppies (California) 

Chrysanthemums 

Iris (several kinds) 

Roses (Bush and Climbing) 

(many kinds) 

Jasmine Humile 

Hudbeckia-Coneflower 

Columbine (very light) 

Jasmine Gelsemium 

Santolina 

Cornflower (Montana) 

sempervirens 

Scotch Broom 

Cosmos (Klondike) 

Jasmine Primrose 

Snapdragon 

Daffodils 

Jonquils 

Tiger Lilies 

Dahlias 

Linaria (grown extensively 

Tulips 

Daisies 

in El Paso) 

Trailing Mimosa 

Forsythia 

Lantana 

Umbalatum Lily 

Four o’Clocks 

Marigold 

Wallflower 

Gladioli 

Narcissus 

Waterlilies (three kinds) 

Honeysuckles 

Nasturtiums 

Zinnia 


82 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


A GARDEN OF ROSE OR RED 


Red 

Agarita (Berries) 

Bottle brush 
Cockscomb (Celosia) 
Columbine (with yellow) 
Cypress Vine 
Gaillardia (with yellow) 
Guernsey (Nerine) Lily 
Holly (Berries) 
Honeysuckle 
Hybranthus lily 
Kochi, a Scoparia (foliage) 
Linum rubrum 
(Scarlet Flax) 

Lobelia splendens 
Lobelia cardinalis 
Monarda 
Peppers 

Perennial Pea Vine 

Pomegranates 

Poinsettia 

Tree Cypress (Gilia rubra) 
Salvia splendens (coccinea) 
Salvia Greggii 
Snapdragon 
Sumac (Rhus) 

Tree Cypress 
Yaupon (Berries) 

Yucca (Hesperaloe) 


Ageratum 

Agapanthus 

(Lily of the Nile) 
Anchusa 

Anchusa (myosotidiflora) 
Bluebonnet 
Clematis (vine) 
Cornflowers 

(Batchelor Buttons) 
(Centaurea Cyanus) 
Cynoglossom 

(Chinese Forget-me not) 


Rose 

Anthony Waterer Spirea 

Cleome 

Columbine 

Cornflowers 

(Bachelor Button) 
Crinum 
Hyacinths 
Larkspur 

Mimosa pudica (trailing) 
Peach (flowering) 
Petunias 
Primrose 

Queen’s Wreath Vine 
Oxalis 
Rain Lily 
Sedums 

Tamarix (salt cedar) 
Yarrow (Achillea) 
Trailing Mimosa 



A GARDEN OF BLUE 

Eryngium 
Flax (Linium) 

Hyacinths 

Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) 
Iris 

Larkspur 

Linaria (Toadflax) 

Morning Glory (Jap.) 

Pansies 


Both Tones 

Almond 

Altheas 

Amaryllis 

Cactus 

Cosmos 

Crape-Myrtle 

Dahlia 

Dianthus (Pinks) 

Four o’Clocks 

Geraniums 

Gladioli 

Hibiscus 

Holyhocks 

Iris 

Oleander 

Peonies 

Portulaca 

Phlox paniculata-maculata 

Phlox Drummondii 

Phlox sublata 

Phlox divaricata 

Poppies 

Pyrethrum 

Roses (Bush and Climbers) 

Sweet Peas 

Touch-me-not 

Tulips 

Verbenas 

Waterlilies 

Zinnias 


Plumbago Capensis 

Plumbago Larpentae 

Salvia farinecea 

Salvia ballottaeflora 

Salvia (Pitcheri) 

Squill (Scilla) 

Tropical Water Lilies 

Verbena 

Veronica 

Vitex 

Violet 


COLOR, THE SECRET OF CHARM 
A GARDEN OF LAVENDER OR PURPLE 


83 


Alyssum 
Butterfly Bush 
Candytuft 
Centaurea americana 
(Star Thistle) 
Chrysanthemum 
Clarkia 
Cleome 

Clematis Jackmani (vine) 

Columbine 

Gladiola 

Hyacinths 

Iris 


Larkspur 

Lilac 

Liriope 

Liatris Gay feather 
Blazing Star 
Monarda (purpurea) 
Pansies 

Penstemon Cobaea 
(Beards Tongue) 
Petunias 
Phlox 

Physostegia virginica 


Poppies 

Senisa 

(Leucophyllum texanum) 
Statice ( annual ) 

Sweet Peas 
Sweet Lavender 
Stocks 

Trailing Lantana 

Verbena 

Veronica 

Violets 

Vitex 

Wisteria 


A GARDEN FOR FRAGRANCE 


Bush Honeysuckle, early, 
Lonicera fragrantissima 
Cedars 

Carolina Yellow Jasmine 
(Gelsemium sempervivum) 


Lavender 

Night-blooming Jasmine 
Lemon Verbena 



Mignonette 

Mint 

Rose Geranium 
Thyme 


Herbs* for Seasoning from Sunny Spots 


Anise (Sweet) 

Artemesia Absenthium 
(Wormwood) 

Artemesia Dranculus 
(Tarragon) 

Balm (Sweet) 

Basil (Sweet) 


Bee Balm 
Caraway (Sweet) 
Catnip 
Dill (Sour) 
Fennel (Sour) 
Leeke 



Marjoram (Sweet) 
Menthas (Mint Family) 
Poppy Seeds for pastry 
Parsley (Sweet) 

Sage 

Savory 

Tansy (of rank growth) 


A Few Medicinal Herbs for the Garden 


Castor Bean Horehound 

Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium) 


Foliage Plants 

Coleus Dusty Miller (Artemesia) 

Devil’s Ivy Sumac 


Sow these seeds on a cloudy day. 



84 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


FOR TROPICAL EFFECTS 


Agaves 

Aloes 

Bamboo 

Banana 

Bougainvilla (in South) 
Canna 
Castor Bean 
Catalpa Tree 
Chinaberry Tree 


Crinum 

Elephants Ears (Caladium) 

Fig Tree 

Fountain Grass 

Gourds 

Grapevines 

Hibiscus 

Jimson Weed (Datura) 


Locust Tree 
Mullein 
Magnolia 
Oleander 
Pampas Grass 
Palmetto 
Sycamore Tree 
Trumpet Vine 
Yuccas 


Some Old-fashioned Favorites 


Cape Jasmine (Gardenia) 
Cypress Vine 


Martha Washington 
Geranium 



Moss and Brier Rose 
Tuberose 


A Suggested Reference List of Dependable Plants 
That Bloom in the Fall 


Shrubs 

Abelia 

Althea 

Butterfly Bush 
Coralberry 
Crape Myrtle 
Dusty Miller 
Flowering Willow 
Ilex decidua 
Ligustrum and Privet 
Berries 
Poinciana 
Sumac (Rhus) 

Vitex 

Vines and Trailers 
Cypress Vine 
Morning Glory 
Perennial Pea 
Petunia 

Queen’s Wreath 
Scarlet Runner Bean 


Thunbergia 
Trailing Lantana 
Verbena 

Bulbous Plants 

Canna 
Crinum 
Hemerocallis 
Hybranthus Lily 
Rain Lily 
Spider Lily 
Tuberose 
Water Lilies 

Annuals and Perennials 
Ageratum 
Alyssum 
Calendula 
California Poppy 
Chrysanthemums 
Cleome 

Cosmos (Klondike) 


Cockscomb 

(Princess Feather) 
Datura (Jimson Weed) 
Eryngium 
Evening Primrose 
Four o’Clocks 
Gaura 
Goldenrods 

Hardy Asters 

(Michaelmas Daisies) 
Hibiscus (Mallow) 
Lantana 

Liatris (Gay Feather) 
Marigold 

Mexican Prickly Poppy 

Petunias 

Plumbago 

Roses 

Salvias 

Snapdragon 

Sunflowers in variety 

Zinnias 


Propagation 



here are several ways by which the amateur gardener may 
successfully propagate plants and thus increase his garden 
>y his own efforts without resorting to the professional 
grower; by seeds, divisions, layering, cutting, grafting and bud¬ 
ding. In these days of restrictions on importing plants, those who 
can successfully raise plants by these various methods can bring 
new beauty to their gardens as well as share plants with flower- 
loving friends. 


Various 

Methods 

of 

Propagation 


SEEDS 


Many scientific experiments have been and are still being made 
on raising plants from seed, and the lay-gardener now has a chance 
to take some of the guesswork out of seed germination."* 

Several factors enter into successful growth of plants from 
seeds. First of all the seed must be alive; second, the soil must be 
carefully prepared to suit the special type of seed. The proper 
amount of sun or shade, as well as a suitable temperature, materi¬ 
ally influences the growth of the seeds. It is important also that 
they be neither too damp, nor too dry. 


Growing 

Conditions 


*SEED GERMINATION—"The Plant Physiologists have worked steadily for thirty 
years on the different problems of seed germination. There are three types of seeds. (1) 
Those that start to grow promptly under ordinary germinative conditions. Most plants of 
commonist culture belong here. (2) Seeds that are alive but are hindered from growing by 
something outside the embryo, such as hard seed coat, or the need of high temperature, or 
light, or increased or decreased oxygen supply. Of these factors, hard-coatedness is the 
one most apt to trouble the amateur gardener since the Legumes suffer from it and that 
family is vastly important, especially in the South where the flora is very rich in pod 
bearing trees and plants. Some of the members of this family start with no trouble, but if 
delays occur the first thing to look for is a hard coat. Seeds of Peas, Broom (Cytisus spp.) 
Lupine, Locust, Wisteria, and Red Bud (Cercis) are among those that may give trouble. 
Any method of breaking, scratching or wearing away the seed coat so the water can enter, 
will promote the growth of these seeds. Soaking, rubbing between pieces of sand paper, or 
in the larger seeds filing with a three-cornered file are all good methods. (3) Seeds in which 

85 




86 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Place to 

Germinate 

Seeds 


Soil for 
Raising 
Seed 


FLATS 

The ideal way to germinate seed is, of course, in a greenhouse 
where temperature and moisture are evenly maintained. Under ordi¬ 
nary conditions, however, this is not possible, but any of a num¬ 
ber of containers may be used. Probably the best is the porous 
seedpan, next to which is suggested the use of "flats”, or wooden 
boxes (about thirteen by twenty-one inches, being three or four 
inches deep.) One may also use flowerpots, bulbpans, or even 
cigar boxes, with rare seeds placed in half an eggshell. Put a half 
dozen small holes, and pebbles or clear sand, in the bottom of the 
flats or cigar boxes, for drainage. If the flats have been used before, 
a wise precaution is to whitewash the inside to prevent possible 
fungus growth. 

Probably the ideal soil 
for raising seed is equal 
parts of sand, leaf 
mold, and loam. Some 
prefer equal parts of 
peat-moss and loam. 

Garden soil with sand 
and a little bonemeal, 
and wood ashes may be 



Importance 

of 

Moisture 

and 

Temperature 


the embryo itself is dormant at the time when the seed is ripe and must go through other 
changes before germination can take place. It is of the greatest importance to learn to handle 
this group because it is the special characteristic of the families to which many of our 
finest ornamentals and fruits belong; the Dogwoods, the Barberries, some of the Honey¬ 
suckles such as Viburnum, Snowberry, Honeysuckle itself and Elder, and—most important 
of all—the Rose family where we find the Rose, both the species and the hybrid forms; 
Pear, Apple, Cherry, Plumb, Strawberry, Spirea, Potentilla, and Hawthorn. 

“Seeds with dormant embryos after-ripen, or get ready to grow, most rapidly if they 
are kept moist and cold until certain changes take place in the embryos that permits germi¬ 
nation to start. If the climate of a place is such that during the winter there will be 7J to 
90 days when the temperature of the surface of the soil is just above freezing, seeds sown 
out of doors in the fall will get enough cold weather to start them in the spring. Where 
winters are too cold or not cold enough nature may be helped by placing the seeds in con¬ 
tainers of moist peat and setting the whole thing in the icebox. Keep moist but not wet for 
two to three months, then take the seeds out and sow them as usual. Many will start when 
treated this way that would never start if planted, as soon as when ripened, in a warm 
greenhouse. Remember that in order to germinate seeds right moisture conditions are most 
important.” 


Persis S. Crocker, of Yonkers, N. Y. 

























PROPAGATION 


87 


used, or sandy loam with a little bonemeal, for the first transplant. 
Whatever soil is used should be sifted through a four-inch, or finer 
sieve. 

After placing one-half inch drainage in the container, fill it with 
well-saturated, prepared soil to within one-half inch or less of 
the top, and pack down well with a brick, or block of wood. 

Recently it has been discovered that many plants’ diseases are 
carried in the seed. This is easily prevented by the use of Semesan 
or Fungtrogen, and should by all means be a part of the business 
of seed planting. Put a little of the powder in an open-mouthed 
bottle, or fruitjar, and shake the seeds about in it before planting. 

Seeds sown in "flats” or other containers may be broadcast, or 
sown in shallow drills, thinly, if care is taken not to plant them 
too deeply. Small seeds need barely be covered. Very fine ones 
need not be covered at all, but merely pressed firmly into the sur¬ 
face of the soil. These very small seeds may be mixed with sand 
or cornmeal to prevent crowding. A good rule for larger seeds is to 
plant them to a depth equal to twice their own diameter. After 
planting, moisten the surface of the container well with a gentle 
spray. 

In order to keep the temperature even, it is well to place glass, 
paper, or lath over the containers. Old burlap is apt to contain 
fungus disease. As soon as the seeds have germinated, begin to 
raise the covering, and increase the supply of air until the young 
plants are ready for full sunlight. 

Even moisture is most essential, and should be given from under¬ 
neath whenever possible. One pot may be set into another with the 
larger one packed with peat-moss, which should be kept wet; or 
the seed or bulbpan may be put into a flowerpot saucer. Flats may 
be set into containers of galvanized iron or other cheap metal. If 
watering from below is not possible, use a rubber spray, or a rose 
spray on the hose*. If glass is used to cover the flats, too much mois¬ 
ture will be indicated by excessive condensation on the under¬ 
surface of the glass which may be carefully lifted at one 
corner to give circulation of air. (See page 95.) Great 
care should be taken in watering the seedlings that 

* . . . "As glass heats up so much, it is better to use paper, lath 
screen, or best of all, cheesecloth, and water thru the cheesecloth." 

—Persia Crocker. 



Plant 
Disease 
Prevent¬ 
atives 


Depth to 

Plant 

Seeds 


What 
Cover 
to Use 


Moisture 

Needed 



88 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Care of the so ^ * s not P ac ^ e< ^ ky t ^ ie ^ orce °f the water. Early morning is 

Seedlings the best time to water. After germination is accomplished, bring 

the young plants into full sunlight gradually, and give them an 
abundance of fresh air. While they may have been kept in the 
shade or even in the dark before sprouting, it is best to remove 
the glass and put them in the sunshine as soon as they are up*. 


OPEN BEDS 

To prepare an open bed, spade the ground, water, allow the 
earth to dry and water again. After the first spading, put a thin 
Seeds layer of bonemeal on top. If heavy black soil predominates, put 

Sown three inches of sandy loam on the surface before seeding. Such 

tnOpen see ds as Poppies, Annual Phlox and Larkspur should be broadcast 

in the fall; Sweet Alyssum and Portulaca should be sown in shal¬ 
low drills or broadcast in early spring. Utmost care must be taken 
not to cover the seeds too deeply. Cover the largest seeds to not 
more than three times their thickness. 



Time and 
Method to 
Follow in 
Trans¬ 
planting 


TRANSPLANTING 

Most annuals need be transplanted only once, most perennials 
twice. Seedlings should be transplanted when the second pair of 
true, or characteristic, leaves appear. It is best to throw away all 
weaklings and use only the healthiest plants, except in the case of 
Petunias which sometimes produce finest flowers from smallest 
plants. The seedlings should be carefully lifted in order not to 
injure their roots and, especially in the case of most annuals, should 
be placed in their permanent beds. One is repaid at this point by 
spreading rich, prepared soil about the roots of the seedlings. The 
holes to receive the tiny plants should be made with a dibber, 01 
pointed stick. Press the soil down firmly about the roots, then watei 
with a fine spray. Use shingle or cardboard protectors against the 
sun, if the transplanting cannot be done in cloudy weather. One 
may make protectors from the cardboards in laundered shirts. It 
is nearly always advisable to remove some of the foliage, especially 
if the plant has not been grown in a pot, or if the transplanting is 


* . . . "Shade during the hottest part of the day."—Persis Crocker. 




PROPAGATION 


89 


done in warm weather. Scratch the ground around the small plants 
before it becomes thoroughly dry. 

Plants should be set out far enough apart to allow for their full 
growth and to prevent disease in the garden, but close enough to 
shade the ground to prevent too rapid evaporation. As a rule, allow 
a distance between plants equal to one-half their mature height. 
Thus plants which grow three feet high should bet set out one and 
one-half feet apart, and those which grow only one foot high 
should be set out six inches apart. 

Most perennials need to be shifted twice. The only difference in 
the transplanting of annuals and perennials is that perennials are 
moved to a second "flat” instead of to the open ground. Put a 
handful of bonemeal to each second "flat” of soil. In raising peren¬ 
nials from seed, a shade of some sort is advisable. It is suggested that 
a shelf which holds about six "flats” be attached to the back of a 
building, over which a light screen of unbleached domestic should 
be hinged, operating with a small rope and pulley, to protect the 
seedlings from storm and sun alike. 

After the small plants are well started, either in the second 
"flat” or in the open bed, water them every ten days with weak 
manure-water. (See page 11). 

The roots of plants play an important part in their existence, 
be they taproots or fibrous roots. They hold the plant in position 
and draw sustenance from the soil. Taproots are highly developed 
in such plants as the Poppy and Mignonette, and care must be 
taken in transplanting not to injure them. Too deep cultivation in 
a garden may injure the fibrous roots, resulting in loss of bloom, 
and is, therefore, to be avoided. 

Plants which reseed themselves easily are: Ageratum, Bluebonnet, 
Calliopsis, Coreopsis, Cornflower, Cosmos, Feverfew, Four o’clock, 
Gaillardia, Larkspur, Poppies, Petunias, Annual Phlox, Portulaca, 
Queen’s Lace and Annual Poinsettias. 


Distance 
Apart to 
Place 


Perennials 

Care 


Forcing 

Growth 


Root- 

Growth 

Important 


90 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


What to 
Plant 
in Spring 


What to 
Plant 
in Fall 


What May 
be Planted 
in Late 
Spring 


ANNUALS 

WHAT TO PLANT IN SPRING 

Annuals which may be planted in March or April: 

In Flats or Open Beds are: Ageratum, Alyssum, Arcotis, Calliop- 
sis, Cosmos, Cockscomb, Forget-me-not, Globe Amaranth, 
Hollyhocks (a biannual), Marigold, Periwinkle, Petunia, Por- 
tulaca, Blue and Scarlet Sage (Salvia), Scabiosa, Verbena, Sal- 
piglossis, Klondike Cosmos, Annual Pinks (Dianthus Annual) 
Baby’s Breath, Torenia. 

In Flats in the House: Feverfew, Dahlias and Zinnias. 

In Open Beds: Scarlet Runner Bean, Candytuft, Cypress Bean, 
African Daisy, Four o’Clock, Moonflower, Morning Glories, 
Nasturtium. 

WHAT TO PLANT IN THE FALL 

Annuals which should be started after the first soaking rain in 
September: 

In Flats or Open Beds : Sweet Alyssum, Baby’s Breath, Arcotis, 
the Centaureas, Balsam, Chinese Forget-me-nots, Petunias, 
Pinks, Snapdragons, any Daisies, Blue Salvia, Corsopsis, Pan¬ 
sies, Annual Poinsettias. 

In Flats: Calendula, late African Marigold. 

In Open Beds: Bluebonnet, Candytuft, Anchusa, Clarkia, Daisies, 
Cosmos, Stocks, Four o’Clocks, Larkspur, Mignonette, Phlox, 
Drummondi, Cockscomb. 

For Late Fall Bloom: Sow Zinnias and French and African Mari¬ 
gold in "flats” or open beds. 

It sometimes pays to take a sporting chance on hardy annuals, 
such as Zinnias and plant a few about the fifteenth of February, 
for very early bloom. Likewise, one may fill in some empty (see 
page 55) spots in the Autumn garden by planting French and 
African Marigolds and Zinnias in July. If the proper time for 
planting annuals has been leglected, good Summer bloom may be 
obtained by planting Annual Baby’s Breath, Poppies and Larkspur 
the last of April or the first of May in the beds where bloom is de- 


PROPAGATION 


91 


sired, and Dahlias for Fall bloom may be started out-of-doors at 
this same time. 

PERENNIALS 

The best time for planting perennial and biennial seeds in our 
section of the country is August, but some of them may be started 
in April or May. These are Foxgloves, Columbines and the Cam¬ 
panulas. Some perennials, like Pansies, Sweet William and Snap¬ 
dragons should be treated like annuals, but be planted in the later 
Summer or early Fall. We should make more experiments with per¬ 
ennial seeds, as many will grow here that have hitherto been con¬ 
sidered unavailable. 

DIVISIONS 

Those plants that do not set seed, or do not come true from seed, 
may often be divided at the roots to form new plants and to avoid 
overcrowding. This is also a short cut to obtain promptly bloom¬ 
ing plants. Whenever possible, gently separate the roots, using a 
spade or knife only when necessary. Some plants may be propa¬ 
gated by separating the stolons or suckers which are formed on 
the old plant as trailing branches underground. 

Bulblets are formed in the case of some Lilies, notably the Tiger 
Lily, in the axils of the leaves on the stems; bulbels within the root 
scales of the old bulb as in the case of Narcissi and others; and 
corms, in case of Gladioli. These may be removed, and brought 
to blooming size through several seasons of growth. 

Rhizomes, the underground stems which are formed on Iris and 
Lilies-of-the-Valley, bear roots and eyes from which the plants de¬ 
velop; and may be divided and planted, if care is taken to have at 
least one eye in each portion. Shallow, horizontal planting insures 
the best results. 

Runners which root at intervals are sent out above ground by 
some plants, and spring up as new plants. These may be divided 
and set out in other places. 

Some perennials, such as Violets and Coreopsis, form groups of 
new shoots. These need to be divided to secure new plants and to 
prevent crowding. 


Time to 
Plant 


How to 
Divide 
Roots 


92 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Time 


CUTTINGS 

Three safe methods of increasing without variation varieties 
which do not come true from seeds are: by propagating from cut¬ 
tings, from layers, and by grafting and budding. 

Cuttings may be made from most perennials, roses and from 
trees and shrubs, either evergreen or deciduous. They may be made 
from leaf, stem, or root, according to the type of plant being 
propagated, and at any time of the year, although the early 
spring months are considered safest and best. There are two kinds 
of cuttings—soft wood and hard wood. 

Leaf Cuttings —Leaf cuttings may be easily made from such 
plants as the Begonia and some forms of Cactus. One method is 
to take a whole leaf, cut it through the veins and put in a glass 
jar"' filled with moist sand. Place the leaf so that the veins will 
come in contact with the sand. The glass jar will keep the sand 
from drying out. Many cacti root very easily if the leaves next the 
stem are allowed to lie in moist soil. 

Stem Cuttings —Stem cuttings are the type most often used by 
amateur gardeners. They are a safe and sure method of increasing 
stock and are to be heartily recommended for trial. It is best to cut 
off a piece about three inches long at the end of a stalk. Pull off 
all but the top leaves and put the slip in a bed of sand. Keep it 
well watered and well shaded until the roots are formed, after 
which it should be transplanted to a bed of loamy soil. The stem 
with its newly formed roots constitutes the new plant. The process 
will take on the average about three weeks. Because the food stored 
in the cells of the slip is only enough to maintain life, it must not 
be overtaxed, and hence, all but the top leaves should be removed. 

Soft-wood Cuttings —Cuttings from perennials are best made in 
Spring and Summer. They may be taken from Arabia, Chrysan¬ 
themum, Clematis, Colei, Dahlias, Geranium, Hollyhocks, Del¬ 
phinium, Lobelia, Phlox, Pinks and others. 


***... Generally, jars run up the heat too much unless the whole is kept shaded. I 
like much better to surround the cuttings with the sides of an old flat . . . lay over it one or 
two layers of cheesecloth, then water frequently. In putting the cuttings into the ground, 
place them almost parallel to the surface of the earth so that three inches of a four-inch cutting 
is buried, and the top leaves are in contact with the soil—lay them so the bottom of the leaves 
are on the soil—that cuts down evaporation, and keeps the cuttings fresh—a very important 
rule. Take lots of cuttings. If you want twenty plants get a hundred cuttings, and you are 
much more apt to succeed.”—rersis Crocker. 



PROPAGATION 


93 


Rose Cuttings may be made longer than perennial cuttings, 
usually from six to eight inches long. These cuttings, after being 
planted, should be covered with a glass fruit jar which should not 
be removed until the plant shows vigorous growth. 

Hard Wood Cuttings —Shrubs and trees, such as Hydrangea, 
Spirea, Pomegranate, Althea and Crape Myrtle may easily be rooted 
during the Spring months. Cuttings of mature flower-stems, six or 
eight inches long, may be planted (an inch or so being left above 
the ground) and thoroughly watered. If the cuttings are made in 
the Fall, they are best tied together in bunches, completely buried 
in damp soil or sand, and mulched. They are ready for planting 
in the Spring. (See page 28). 

Evergreen Cuttings , made preferably in the Summer, will also 
root if the lower leaves are removed and the stripped portion 
planted in moist sand. They should remain in the cold frame until 
they are to be moved to open beds, in the Spring. 

Root Cuttings. —Those plants which do not form a mass of 
roots, but have thick, fleshy roots, may be propagated from root 
cuttings. Divide the root into pieces an inch or so long, plant in a 
flat of good soil, and keep watered and shaded until they root. This 
will take place in about a week. Root cuttings are best made in 
August or September, from such plants as Japanese Anemone, Ori¬ 
ental Poppy, and Plumbago. 


LAYERING 

The process of layering , employed especially with the Pink 
(Dianthus) family, is a simple and certain way to reproduce the 
original plant. It consists in rooting a part of the plant without 
detaching it until it is rooted. If young shoots are fastened firmly to 
earth, preferably near an eye or joint, and covered with earth, they 
will form calluses from which roots will soon develop. (See page 
28). The new plants may then be separated from the old and 
moved to their permanent positions. Besides Pinks of various kinds, 
Magnolia, Jasmine, Holly, Verbena, Dogwood, Honeysuckle, Juni¬ 
per and others, may be propagated in this manner. 


94 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


GRAFTING AND BUDDING 

Grafting and budding both mean the union of the growing tis¬ 
sues of two plants. Grafting is the insertion of a twig bearing one 
or more buds of one plant into the growing wood of the other. 
Budding is the insertion of a single bud beneath the bark. 

The scion is the part which is inserted into the stock or rooted 
portion, which supplies food for the scion. Although the bark 
and wood tissues of the scion and the stock are knit together, each 
retains its identifying characteristics. 

The chief reasons for grafting are to perpetuate certain varieties, 
and to enable certain plants to live in different soil or under condi¬ 
tions otherwise unfavorable to them. The stock is made to support 
an entirely different flower or fruit from that which the scion pro¬ 
duces after it has grown. 

Grafting should be done in the Spring after the sap begins to 
rise and is successful only in plants which form a layer of bark 
covering the wood. It is necessary that the cambium layer, or that 
Time ^ ssue lying between bark and wood of both scion and stock, be in 
contact . 

Seedlings may be grafted, thus propagating certain kinds of 
ornamental trees and shrubs; young trees (such as oranges or other 
fruits) and the trunk and branches of older trees, if the choice of 
stock is always made from closely related families. Thus Apples, 
Pears, and Quinces will unite as will Flowering Quince, Hawthorn 
and Photinia. Many Conifers also, such as Arbor Vitae, Juniper 
and Cypress may be grafted. 

After the graft is made, it should be waxed with grafting wax 
to prevent evaporation. It may be applied at each graft, either by 
hand or by means of strips of cloth dipped in the wax and tied 
tightly about the union. This process is a delicate one, requiring 
accuracy of touch and much practice; and a great deal can be 
learned from the books and nurserymen. 

Leda Stimson Doolittle 
Marion Doolittle Potts 


PROPAGATION 


95 


GARDEN SECRETS 

Amateurs are often confused by the apparent conflicting advice 
as to Time of Planting. 

The advantage of planting seed in the Fall is that a deeper root 
system is established, insuring a much stronger plant, finer quality, 
and much longer season of bloom. 

However, a certain amount of success may be secured from 
planting seed in the Spring, remembering that all seed to be sown 
in the Spring should be in the ground by St. Patrick’s Day. 

An easy rule to keep in mind is that Spring-flowering plants 
should be sown in the Fall; Summer and Fall-flowering plants 
should be sown in the Spring. 

Poppy seed must lie in the ground many days before they ger¬ 
minate, so plant them as early in the Fall as possible. 

COLD FRAMES 

"There are various ways of circumventing the seasons and gain¬ 
ing time in size and quickness of bloom. Hot beds, cold-frames 
and small greenhouses will accomplish this. 

"A hotbed in our warm climate is not as satisfactory as a cold 
frame. 

"The cold frame is so called because there is no artificial heat, 
either from fire or fermenting manure. A good size is nine by six 
feet, ten inches high in front and eighteen inches high in the back, 
with three glass sashes. Within this frame, excavate to a depth of 
one foot. Mix with the topsoil, sand and manure (leaf-mold or 
compost) as follows: One wheelbarrow of topsoil to one-half a 
barrow of sand and one-half a barrow of manure. Mix well; 
sift; and replace in the frame, allowing it to settle thoroughly be¬ 
fore planting. 

"Sashes may be secured with double glass, with a space between 
that acts like a thermos bottle, holding the heat. Sashes should be 
attached to the frame with hinges at the top, and must be opened 
during the day, except in freezing weather. Use bricks as props, 
turning on the various sides according to the warmth of the day. 


Time of 
Planting 

Pall 

Spring 

Rule 


96 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Color 

Plant in 
November 


"This is an ideal way to start plants for the hardy borders, to 
be transplanted when the danger of frost is past. Where a great 
number are needed to give a mass effect, the cold frame is much 
the most satisfactory way to propagate them, and very much less 
expensive than buying them by the dozens. 

"Seedlings in the cold frame become acclimated and develop bet¬ 
ter than plants shipped from a distance, so that often flowers 
may be had that have hitherto been thought impossible for a loca¬ 
tion because of the climate. 



"Seedlings must be thinned out by hand, that those remaining 
may grow strong and sturdy. Weeds, too, must be removed care¬ 
fully. 

"It is not generally known that Dahlias may be grown from 
seed. They will bloom the first year if started in March in the cold 
frame. Sow the seed thinly , in rows. Sprinkle sand over them, and 
tamp them with a small, flat board. 

"Another use of the cold frame is to secure bloom during the 
late Winter and early Spring. 

"Calendulas sown in September will begin to flower in Feb¬ 
ruary. 

"Dianthus started in this way are also much earlier than those 
planted in the open. 

"One of the dangers of a cold frame is dampening off of the 
seedlings. This may be controlled by watering sparingly.” (From 
notes contributed by Mrs. Edward Belsterling.) 

An interesting fact is that often the color of a blossom may be 
determined by the stem of the small seedling. This is especially 
noticeable with Snapdragons. 

All leaf-losing trees, shrubs, fruit trees, roses and hardy herba¬ 
ceous border plants are best planted in November. By Spring, the 








PROPAGATION 


97 


best are sold and many will have been stored, often poorly pro¬ 
tected, so that much if not all vitality has disappeared. 

Spring is the best time to plant choice Evergreens, however, al¬ 
though they may be planted successfully as early as September, or 
as late as April. 




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Southwestern gardeners consider early Spring the best time to 
divide; Chrysanthemums, Michaelmas Daisies (Hardy Asters), 
Hardy Phlox, Pyrethrum, Daisies, Perennial Gaillardia, Japanese 
Stonecrop, and Japanese Anemones. 

It has been found that sheep manure, used as a winter protec¬ 
tion and fertilizer on Chrysanthemums, is too strong for them, 
therefore barnyard manure, not too well-rotted, is suggested. 

In certain sections, winter protection is necessary for a number 
of plants, particularly for Queen’s Wreath (Antigonon), Cannas, 
Chrysanthemums, Plumbago, Lantanas and Verbenas. A small 
shovelful of barnyard manure usually affords the sufficient cover¬ 
ing and has the added value of providing fertilization. 

Utilizing the information recently advanced by the scientists 
that Chrysanthemums require the short-length day to blossom, it 
is suggested the experiment be tried of excluding daylight by can¬ 
vas coverings, or even using paper hoods for each individual plant. 


Evergreens 


When to 
Divide 


Winter 

Protection 













98 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Those who are sojourning for a time in a location that is not 
permanent, need not be deprived of the joys of owning a garden. 
There are quick-growing annuals and vines to fill every demand; 
and Iris acquired can be moved from one location to another at 
any season. 


Editors. 


Effect of Light on Vegetation 

The scientific basis for this chapter is found in work being 
done at Boyce-Thompson Institute for Plant Research at 
Yonkers, N. Y., by Dr. John M. Arthur and his associates. 

(T 9 HE greatest factory in the world is the green leaf of the plant. 

X In it, in light, the carbon dioxide of the air, with water and the 
inorganic compounds of the soil, is manufactured into starches and 
sugars—carbohydrates of one sort or another—that form the basis 
of all the foodstuffs of all the world. Every animal must draw its 
sustenance from plants in some way, for animals cannot manu¬ 
facture the foods they need. In their bodies they arrange plant 
foods into animal materials; but the green plant alone can take 
gases from the air, mineral matter and water from the soil, and 
then, activated by the tremendous energy of the sun, can trans¬ 
form these inorganic materials into organic energy suitable for 
plant and animal food. 

Foods made by the plant may be used at once in the processes of 
growth, flowering and setting seed, or the plant may store the 
manufactured materials in its body. The plant body, built up by 
this food storage, gives us wood with all its uses, coal, natural oil 
and gas, besides all the things into which these may be divided. It 
is the stored foods that tie up the sun’s energy and hold it until a 
new process releases it. The source of energy in this great factory 


Editorial Note—Much of the valuable information which is being secured from the 
experiments conducted by the scientists at the Boyce-Thompson Institute will be of vital 
assistance to plant growers in the Southwest, as their deductions explain why certain plants 
that flourish in other locations fail to thrive here. This Institute was founded about seven 
years ago by the late Colonel William Boyce-Thompson, and has already become famous for 
its findings on seed germination, on the control of blight, on locating the cause of mosaic 
disease, and on the speeding up of growth and fruiting of shrubs and plants. This article 
has been contributed by Persis S. Crocker, wife of Dr. William Crocker, Director of the 
Institute. 


Photo- 

Synthesis 


99 



100 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Factors 
in Rate 
of Plant 
Growth 


is light, and the process of food-making taking place in the green 
leaves is called photosynthesis, "Building up by Light”. 

The rate of plant growth is limited not only by the peculiarities 
of the plant itself but also by external factors, such as light inten¬ 
sity and duration, carbon dioxide supply, temperature, and water 
supply. In nature a plant rarely has an opportunity to grow as its 
maximum rate. Possibly many would grow a little faster if the days 
were a little moister, or warmer, or the sun a little brighter. In a 
greenhouse these conditions can be varied and are easily controlled, 
so scientists have long been able to tell us what are the highest and 
the lowest temperatures that a given plant will endure, and also 
what temperature leads to the greatest development. 

One of the hardest things to study is the carbon dioxide supply, 
but recent apparatus, which permits the investigator to control the 
supply of that gas makes it apparent that it too is often the factor 
that limits the rate of the amount of growth. Three-hundredths of 
a per cent of carbon dioxide gas is present in average air. If in 
the course of an experiment the carbon dioxide is kept at ten times 
the average amount or three-tenths of a per cent, and the other 
growth factors are kept at a favorable point, plants kept in these 
conditions show a great increase in rate of growth. If the plants 
are given not only more CO 2 , but also a longer period of light, that 
is, if the normal day is supplanted by artificial light, the increased 
rate of growth is startling. 

A room at Boyce-Thompson Institute, the winter of 1928, was 
equipped with powerful lights, so powerful that their light closely 
approached sunlight, both in intensity and quality. Temperature, 
humidity, and carbon dioxide supply were closely controlled. Beside 
this room was another exactly like it, except it was perfectly dark. 
A variety of plants were placed in these rooms, some of them stay¬ 
ing in the light all the time and some being moved on a regular 
schedule between the light and dark rooms. By means of this 
experiment it has been determined how the length of the day in¬ 
fluences plant growth. Of course, these plants had only artificial 
light, but others like them were kept in greenhouses with normal 
daylight and in many cases grew much more slowly than the plants 
in the constant condition room. Plants grow at an astonishing 


EFFECT OF LIGHT ON VEGETATION 


101 


rate when they are supplied with everything they can use in grow¬ 
ing. Of course, artificial climate is costly and is only to be used 
for experimental purposes, but it is intensely interesting and useful 
to know the part played by everything that contributes to plant 
growth. 

One thing comes out clearly, in many plants it is the length 
of time that they are illuminated each day and not the tem¬ 
perature that brings on flowering. There are short-day plants, long- 
day plants and indifferent plants. Our Fall-blooming flowers, Sal¬ 
via, Cosmos, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, and possibly Sunflower, are 
some of the many plants that flower on the short day. Salvia 
blooms, as a tiny seedling, in the cold frame in the Spring, but 
stops and forms no buds at all as the days grow longer. With more 
than twelve hours of sunlight the plants grow larger and larger, 
but form no buds until the days grow shorter in the Fall. When a 
twelve-hour, or shorter day arrives, bud formation begins and flow¬ 
ering continues until frost. This is not a temperature response, be¬ 
cause when conditions are controlled in the laboratory the tem¬ 
perature may be maintained at any point, and if the illumination 
is longer than twelve hours out of the twenty-four, no buds are 
formed. 



There are very few long-day plants among the greenhouse plants. 
They have no flower on a short day to do well in usual greenhouse 
conditions. So, any plants that are normally grown in a greenhouse 
are either short-day plants or plants that are indifferent. 


Influence 
of Day 
Length 





























102 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Lettuce 
Long Day 
Plants 


Short Day 
Plants 


Plants 
Indifferent 
to Length 
of Day 


Latitude 

Control 


A plant that needs a long day for flowering is Lettuce. One com¬ 
monly hears, "The days are getting warmer, so the Lettuce will 
shoot,” but it has been determined that unless the length of day is 
more than twelve hours, the same Lettuce cannot be kept from 
blossoming, even at a much lower temperature. 

In both Lettuce and Salvia, usefulness is increased by a short day, 
because in one case we want the plant to bloom and in the other 
we want it not to. By planting Salvia close to the east side of a 
building, the heavy shading the plants get in the afternoon will 
shorten their day length and hasten their flowering somewhat. 
Chrysanthemums may be brought into flower much earlier by 
the exclusion of the sunlight for several hours of each day. It has 
been suggested that paper cups may be used for this purpose or 
other protective shade. 

Asters will flower on a short day, but on a funny, shortened 
stem, so the whole plant looks like a blossoming Hyacinth. Petu¬ 
nias, Nasturtiums and Sweet Peas will bloom very sparingly on a 
short day, but reserve their greatest efforts for the long ones. 

Certain plants pay no attention to day length. Marigolds, Snap¬ 
dragons, Roses and Calendulas are notable examples in the garden. 
In these plants blossoming begins as soon as the plant grows big 
enough and continues until cut off by cold weather. In the tropics 
many plants have the characteristic of flowering continuously. 

Since the length of day varies according to the latitude, from the 
twelve-hour day at the equator to the twenty-four hour midsum¬ 
mer day at the poles, it is evident that plants with definite require¬ 
ments in day length will vary greatly in their time of flowering, 
depending on where they are being grown. In general, the plants 
of the very cold regions have to be those that respond to the very 
long days by rushing through their life history at a rate unheard 
of in the regions nearer the tropics. Short-day plants have no place 
in these conditions because cold becomes a limiting factor before 
short days arrive. Just the opposite is the case in the subtropics 
where the days follow one another with little change in tempera¬ 
ture or day-length and there the plants wander through their life 
history, growing to great size, it is true, on account of favorable 


EFFECT OF LIGHT ON VEGETATION 


103 


conditions, but not rushing from one thing to another as a success¬ 
ful plant must in arctic conditions. 

The importance of length of daily illumination ranks with in¬ 
tensity of light, water supply, temperature and soil conditions as 
a factor determining plant development. 

The manufacturing processes carried on in green leaves of plants 
stands alone in efficiency and in importance of the product made. 
The original statement stands—the greatest factory in the world is 
the green leaf of the plant. 


Persis S. Crocker. 


104 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Blossoms for Each of the Twenty-four Hours 

(As Illustrated Opposite) 

Should one wish a unique flower arrangement, a planting around a pool 
can be planned so that blossoms will come into flower each succeeding hour, 
beginning with the 


Ragged Poppy - - 

- at 3 A. M. 

Dandelion and Potato - 

at 

1 P. M. 

Swamp Rose - - - 

- at 4 A.M. 

Whiteday Waterlily - - 

at 

2 P. M. 

Black Night Shade - 

- at 5 A. M. 

Iris ....... 

at 

3 P. M. 

Hemerocallis Lemon 


Four o’Clocks - - - - 

at 

4 P. M. 

Daylily .... 

- at 6 A.M. 

Evening Primrose 



Morning Glories - - 

- at 7 A. M. 

(Oenothera) ... 

at 

5 P. M. 

Deanthus (Pinks) 

- at 8 A. M. 

Jimson Weed (Datura) - 

at 

6 P. M. 

Marigolds - - - - 


Night Blooming Cereus 

at 

7 P. M. 

Poppies. 


Honesty. 

at 

8 P. M. 

Purslane .... 


Night Blooming Jasmine 

at 

9 P. M. 

Thistles. 






While the Pink, White and Yellow Tropical Waterlilies unfurl in suc¬ 
cession from 10 P. M. until 3 A. M., and on moonlight nights the Yuccas 
open their pyramids of white bells, glistening under the moon’s rays with 
unusually satiny sheen. 











. 1 




































































































































































































































•• 







































A Garden of Bulbs 

T has been quite an interesting experiment to determine 
how nearly a garden of continuous bloom may be secured 
from Bulbs and Tubers, framed and softened by a few 
congenial Annuals and Perennials. 

In other parts of the country the opening of the tiny cups of 
the Snowdrops and Crocus may be relied on to welcome the Spring, 
but our first flowers are usually the colorful Dwarf Iris, whose 
time of blossom can never be fixed, as they appear all through the 
winter after every short period of mild weather. 

The old-fashioned yellow Jonquil ventures almost as early. 
Therefore, these, possibly, take first place in our procession of 
Bulbs. 

By careful selection the Bulb garden may be filled with blos¬ 
soms for many weeks. 

As the Iris and Narcissus are the dependable Bulbs for the South¬ 
west, it is very fortunate that each has many types, blossoming at 
various times. 

From the gorgeous array offered by the catalogues it is most be¬ 
wildering to make a choice until one realizes that the several types 
follow each other in their time of bloom. Also the individual varie¬ 
ties under each type offer many possibilities of having early, inter¬ 
mediate and late flowering bulbs. 

The Yellow Jonquils have long been favorites because of the 
delicious fragrance of their clusters of golden-yellow blossoms on 
rush-like stems, amidst a multitude of fine, narrow leaves. These 
are followed by King Alfred and his court of long Trumpeters. 
King Alfred has asserted supremacy through unusual adaptability 
to this region. Literally thousands are being grown in our sandy 
lands for commercial purposes. 

Soon after King Alfred begins to bloom Treserve appears. This, 

105 



Continuous 

Bloom 


Earliest 

in 

Spring 


Yellow 

Jonquil 


Iris 

and 

Narcissus 


Types 


Early 

Jonquils 


106 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Giant 

Trumpets 

Types 


Incompara- 

bilis 

Type 


Overlapping 

°f 

Leedsi 

Barri 

Poeticus 

Types 


Tiny 

Bulbs 


Iris 


in turn, is followed several days later by Robert Syndenham. The 
individual blossoms of each have such amazing durability that a 
wealth of bloom may be secured from a limited number of bulbs 
of these three varieties alone. Should one desire varieties of the 
earlier blooming Trumpets other than King Alfred, Treserve and 
Robert Syndenham, of the ones mentioned in the following article, 
Olympia, Wear dales 9 Perfection and Van Waverings 9 Giant are 
the nearest to follow King Alfred. Emperor and Empress prolong 
the season, blooming about the time of Robert Syndenham. 

Incomparabilis Sir Wat kin begins to flower before the long 
Trumpets have gone. Later-blooming varieties of the Incompara¬ 
bilis overlap, again, the time of the Leedsie’s, the Barris, and the 
Poeticus. 

The season closes with the Poeticus (Pheasant’s Eye or Poet’s 
Narcissus), clusters of medium-sized white and yellow, delight¬ 
fully fragrant blossoms. This variety thrives well under all condi¬ 
tions, when not exposed to high winds. 

In our section of the country few are fortunate enough to have 
prolonged success with all the early spring-flowering Bulbs. Their 
dainty beauty is so alluring and enticing that one cannot resist 
trying to possess them (often with marked success). 

One who has experimented wisely says: “They are in the main 
difficult for the average gardener because of their peculiar soil 
requirements.” (Mrs. H. W. Benners of Dallas.) 

The Iris pageant runs parallel with the Daf¬ 
fodils (see page 133), but extends far beyond 
their time of bloom. These, in turn, have had 
as their companions the early Hemerocallis 
(Lemon Lilies) and Umbellatum Lilies (see 
page 118), Gladioli and various smaller Bulbs. 



^A5M*DN6.D 



A GARDEN OF BULBS 


107 


The later Spring brings the Madonna Lilies, the Regale, the 
Tiger, and the Speciosum, with the Cannas doing their part dur¬ 
ing the extreme hot weather. The Guernsey (Spider Lily) and 
Hydranthus (see page 124), are always a surprise with their inter¬ 
esting blossoms, the very first weeks of Fall; while the Crinum 
(some variety of which has been in flower constantly since June) 
help with Cannas and Dahlias to make a Bulb garden glorious until 
the first frost. 

Editor. 


Lilies 


The Bulb 
Season 


The 

Earliest 

Bloom 


Glory 
of the 
Snow 



Spring-Flowering Bulbs 

/OMEONE has compared the Bulb season to a many- 
( coursed meal. The blossoms of the tiny, early Spring 
Bulbs are the appetizer or relish. What greater whet 
to one’s appetite for beauty could be found? Then come the sub¬ 
stantial things—Daffodils, Hyacinths, Tulips, and Gladioli. These 
are followed by an entree of Lilies, Dahlias and Montbretias, with 
Autumn Crocus for dessert. 

A thrill of joy is experienced on discovering these dainty little 
flowers, many of the first of which are so tiny they elude the eye. 
and only reward one after diligent search. All of these early Spring 
Bulbs may be used for naturalizing under the trees or where grass 
will not grow, or they may be planted in shoals in the perennial 
border. They may be planted fairly deep and do not require trans¬ 
planting (or thinning) for five or six years. 

Glory of the Snow (Chinodoxia) has flowers of white, blue and 
rose. It is one of the first Spring Bulbs to bloom. Mass-planting 
forms a sumptuous display in early Spring. It multiplies rapidly 
in loose soil and can be propagated 
easily from seed. 

Scilla (Squill, in variety) is one of 
the best Bulbs for naturalizing and 
will succeed well in the shade, under 
cedars, and in moist places. Among 
the campanulata types there are caerula, blue; 
rosea, pink; and alba, white. They bear spikes about 
fifteen inches high. 

Anemones are considered half-hardy, so should 
have protection in our coldest weather. S/. Bridget is 
a fine strain, and shows many lovely shades. There 



108 


SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


109 


are native varieties, known as "Woodland Violets”, indigenous to 
the oakwood and limestone rocks of East Texas. 

Galanthus (Snow Drops) are very effective under hedges and 
cedar trees. They multiply well, but resent being moved. Leave 
them undisturbed to become established. 

Erythronium (Dog-toothed Violet) is hardy and very early. 
There are several native varieties, which are much better secured 
from commercial growers. The native varieties are usually light 
lavender; but white, pink and yellow varieties can be obtained. 
They are very lovely for Rock Gardens, but prefer shady or 
semi-shady places. They should be planted about five inches deep. 

Crocus come in several named varieties and are all beautiful. 
They are not as satisfactory here as in many other sections, so 
should be treated as an annual. They apparently do not like heavy 
soil. 

Spring Snowflake (Leucojum vernum), like a giant Snow Drop, 
is perhaps more easily grown in all parts of the Southwest than are 
most of the early Spring-flowering Bulbs. Its profusion of bell¬ 
shaped, pure white flowers, tipped with bright green, are so lovely 
that its failure to have a pleasing perfume is a real disappointment. 
They are very charming in large clumps where it is wise to let 
remain undisturbed for several years under trees, or among other 
plants. Leucojum Autumnale blooms in Fall and has red instead of 
green tips on its white bells. 

Muse art (Grape Hyacinths) are especially effective in mass¬ 
planting. They are bright blue and make a brilliant spot of color 
under trees. They like a loose, sandy soil, just as all Bulbs prefer, 
that they may multiply more readily. 

Hyacinths are suitable for bedding purposes. Their colors of 
yellow, pink, red, blue, lavender, purple and white, with 
their rich, green foliage, form a lovely picture, besides filling 
the air with fragrance. The Dutch and French single varie¬ 
ties are dainty and lovely. These may be used in naturaliz¬ 
ing and are most advisable out of doors. At present they arc 
very high in price. Hyacinths will multiply if not watered 
too much. 


Galanthus 

(Snowdrops) 


Dogtooth 

Violets 


Crocus 


Snowflake 


Muscart 



H«|IXC«NTh6 


110 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Ranunculus must have a light protection in cold weather. They 
Ranunculus have double flowers on strong straight stems, eight or twelve inches 
long. The color range is large. They are very beautiful. They 
grow and bloom well the first year, but it has not been proven that 
they multiply here. Treat them as annuals. 

Montbretias are among the most colorful of the Summer-flow- 
Montbretias er * n S Bulks* They are very like Gladioli and make a brilliant dis¬ 
play in June and July. The blooms are produced in many flowered 
sprays on long stalks, and are fine for cut flowers. They are easy 
to grow, but should be planted in the Fall, three to four inches 
deep and three to six inches or more apart. 


The 

Bulb 

Industry 


NARCISSI 

Shortly after the War a quarantine preventing the importation 
of Narcissus bulbs was put into effect, in the effort to control in¬ 
troduction of those insects and diseases which had attacked this 
bulb in other countries. No Narcissus of any kind were admitted, 
except under special permit, and then only in limited quantities for 
commercial propagation. American growers, as an inevitable re¬ 
sult of this quarantine, started a new industry as 
soon as it was definitely proved that Narcissus 
could be successfully grown in this country on a 
commercial basis. Several Dutch firms transferred 
their stocks, worth hundreds of thousands of 
dollars, to this side of the Atlantic. The Pacific 
Northwest and Virginia have taken the lead in 
bulb-growing and a great number of varieties 
/have already been introduced. However, America has just 
begun to know the joy of growing Daffodils. 

MODERN DAFFODILS 

It would be impossible to give an adequate description of 
the modern Daffodils. They beggar description. Not only in 
size, but in texture, color, harmony and contrast, they arc 
marvelous. 

The Narcissi are divided into many very definite groups. 






SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


111 


It would be most difficult to name all of the types. However, the 
following outline may be of assistance to the amateur in choosing 
a representative collection. 

The Giant Trumpets. —Best known are the Giant Trumpets, 
which are distinguished by their very long cups. The blossoms are 
of tremendous size; many are all yellow; a few all white; and some, 
white and yellow. 

The Yellow Trumpets are valuable because of their early appear¬ 
ance and for their rich color. Among those grown extensively are 
Emperor, King Alfred, Olympia and Van Waveren’s Giant. Robert 
Sydenham and Treserve are new and lovely. 

M me. de Graaff has long been considered the best all-white, but 
she is fast being supplanted by the newer Mrs. E. H. Krelage. 

The Bicolor Trumpets are very striking. Wear dale’s Perfection 
is one of the best; yet, Empress is very popular. 

The Incomparabilis are among the most beautiful with their 
large cups that are shorter or equal in length with the perianth (or 
surrounding circle of petals.) The several types are all-yellow, 
yellow perianth with white cups and yellow perianth with red and 
orange cups. Try Sir Wat kin and Will Scarlet! 

The Leedsii are the nymphs of the Daffodils. They have both 
large and small cups, in which the perianth segments are white, and 
the cups white, cream or lemon. White Lady, Queen of the North, 
Evangeline and Sirdar have proved satisfactory. 

The cups of the Barrii are about one-third the length of the 
petals. The most outstanding of this class is Conspicuous, while 
other varieties are Albatross, Lady Godiva and the newer Bath’s 
Flame. 

The chief characteristic of the Poeticus group is the white peri¬ 
anth that surrounds the short, wide-mouthed cup. The Poeticus, 
or Pheasant’s Eye, has been named the "Poet’s Narcissus”. Other 
varieties are Poeticus Horace and Poeticus Recurvus. 

No collection could be complete without a few of the late- 
blooming Poetaz, for their unusual habit of blooming in clusters 
makes them very distinct and desirable. 

The Double Daffodils are not generally satisfactory, as they are 


Narcissi 

Classifi¬ 

cations 


Giant 

Trumpet 

Group 


Yellow 


White 


Bi-Color 


Incompara¬ 

bilis 

Group 


Leedsii 

Group 


Barrii 

Group 


Poeticus 

Group 


Poetaz 

Group 


112 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


A 

Collection 
of Several 
Types 


Culture 


When 
to Plant 


Origin 


often green and do not open well. Von Sion is considered the best 
of this group for the Southwest. 

A popular group of satisfactory Daffodils for garden purposes, 
representing several types, includes Emperor, Empress, Glory of 
Sassenheim, Victoria, Sir Wat kin, the small Campernelle, Elvira 
and Aspasia. 

Daffodils require much the same culture as other bulbs. Fork 
the ground deep; and, if the soil is heavy, lighten with some sand. 
Add bonemeal and mix thoroughly. Remember that good drainage 
is very essential. Always select the largest, firmest bulbs possible 
when buying, for these are usually the double-nosed, or mother 
bulbs, that will split into three or more the next season. 

Plant four to six inches deep, preferably in August or Sep¬ 
tember, if they can be secured at that time. Narcissi may be left 
where they are planted for several years, or until the clumps need 
dividing; or, after the foliage has died down, they may be dug, 
dried in slatted trays or open baskets, kept in a cool place, and 
replanted in August or September. 

Never cut the foliage off while green, for this year’s foliage 
makes next year’s blossoms. A good plan is to tie it up to a stake 
until mature, or browned, to keep it from sprawling untidily. 



- erwpRMs- 

TULIPS 


As far back as 15 54 we know that the Saracens saw Tulips in 
the gardens of Egypt. They were later carried into Western Europe 
and were seen in the beautiful gardens of Spain at an early date. 
From Spain the Dutch carried Tulip bulbs to their gardens, and 
soon their culture became an important industry in Holland. 


SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS 


113 


In the early part of the seventeenth century this cultivation of 
Tulips developed very rapidly. Everybody wanted Tulips. It was 
a fine hobby, but alas! it degenerated into gambling. A Tulip-mania 
struck the land, and soon the Dutch were gambling with bulbs as 
Americans do with cotton, oil and stocks of all kinds. This gam¬ 
bling lasted from 1634 to 1637. All kinds of auctions were held, 
and enormous sums of money changed hands. People of every walk 
of life tried to make a fortune. In 1637 the States of Holland 
decided to put a stop to this gambling, and issued a proclamation 
to that effect. The gambling mania was finally curbed, yet the fever 
for perfection of bulbs has never died out; so, after many ups 
and downs, the present high standard has gradually evolved. Now 
Tulips have a wealth of form and color, and are amazingly long- 
flowering. 

The different groups come into bloom in this order: single and 
double-flowering Darwins; the Breeder; and, lastly, the Cottage 
Tulips. There are varieties of each of such outstanding merit that 
they retain their popularity year after year. 

Darwins are distinguished by their bright colors and tall stems. 

In Breeder Tulips one finds the blends and pastel shades. They 
are somewhat taller than the Darwins. 

In Cottage Tulips you find every shade and color. Yellow is 
found in this, and, until recently, was not to be had in the Dar¬ 
wins or Breeders. They are still scarce, and very expensive. Tulips 
are best in herbaceous borders in groups, planted generally about 
five inches below the surface. 


The 
Dutch 
Gambling 
of 17th 
Century 


Three 

Groups: 

Darwin, 

Breeder, 

Cottage 


A popular assortment is: 

Darwin Cottage 

Clara Butt Inglescomb Yellow 

Mrs. Farncomb Sanders Inglescomb Pink 
Pride of Holland La Merveille 

Rev. Eubank Picotee 


Breeder 
Bronze Queen 
Cardinal Manning 
Louis XIV 
Panorama 


Bizarre, Rembrandt, Parrot and Lily-flowering Tulips are beau¬ 
tiful oddities. 


Frost Roane Price. 


114 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


The 

Three 

Types 


A 

Suggested 
Collection 
From the 
Three 
Types 


Cultural 

Directions 

for 

Vicinity 
of Austin 


TULIP CULTURE 
(Contributed from Austin) 

Success with Tulips depends a great deal upon buying the best 
grade of bulbs and in getting them planted early. Three kinds have 
proved most successful with me, the Darwin, the Breeder, and 
the May-flowering or Cottage Tulips. In my estimation, the Dar¬ 
win is the best, due to the fact that it produces the best flower and 
will continue to come up and bloom year after year. 

The following have proved most satisfactory: of the Darwins 
(known as the Prince of Tulips because of its stately appearance 
and long stems) Afterglow, Barronne de la Tonnaye, Clara Butt, 
Dream, Euterpe, Harry Veitch and the Pride of Harlem. The best 
Breeder Tulips are: Bronze Queen, Louis XIV, Queen Alexandria 
and Velvet King . The best May-flowering or Cottage Tulips: Ges- 
neriana Spathulata, Inglescome Yellow and John Ruskin. 

There is not a great deal of labor or expense involved in planting 
and caring for Tulips, but from experience I have found that by 
following certain instructions I get the best results. Bulbs must be 
ordered early so that they can be planted during October and 
November. 

Select a sunny or semi-sunny location, well drained. The soil 
should be medium—not too heavy or chalky. This should be 
thoroughly pulverized, and the bulbs planted from six to eight 
inches below the surface. 

Be sure that they are pressed firmly into the ground. 

Around each bulb it is a good idea to sprinkle a little sand. 
After planting, put some fertilizer—bonemeal or manure are both 
good—on top the soil. In this way the additional nourishment is 
carried down to the bulb by the rains. 


Mrs. C. N. Page. 


lh^hJf.b\A i i 



The Lily 

The Iris 


The Rose 





_ hrough song and story, down the ages innu¬ 
merable, has come the fame of the Lily, the Iris, and 
the Rose. This immortal trio continues to hold chief 
place in the hearts and minds of men. 

Lilies are the Aristocrats of the Garden, and so 
they should be treated. The exquisite beauty of a 
single stalk, against soft green (the most comple¬ 
mentary of backgrounds for a Lily’s delicacy) gives 
one that thrill of subtle pleasure which is never at¬ 
tained through mass-effect. 

Symbols that antedate written history picture the 
Lily in intimate association with Royalty, a silent 
testimony to the fact that these early rulers of men 
were capable of appreciation of the most exquisite 
of all of Nature’s offerings; and, appropriating it for 
their individual use, expressed to the world their 
haughty belief in their own and Nature’s attainment 
to perfection. 

The majesty of the Iris has long been immortal-' 
ized, and its pictorial images have been used as sym¬ 
bols of man’s religion and emotions. To the people 
of France, their Fleur de Lis symbolizes the 
Christian religion, and under that conventional¬ 
ized form, Iris was chosen the royal emblem 
of the ancient monarchs of the realm. 

115 














116 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


For many centuries in company with the Lotus of the Egyptian 
Pharoahs (the Lily of the Nile), and the Fleur de Lis of France, 
the Rose of England has been used extensively for ornamentation 
and in heraldry. With them it has shared the love and admiration 
of countless thousands. Its warm beauty nestles close to the hearts 
of men, and glows in the full bloom of their affections. 


Lilies 



ess than a generation ago it was the general belief that 
few Lilies could be grown in the heavy soil of the 
. Southwest, yet, today, a number of varieties are being 
cultivated most successfully. The reason 
for this is that the information which 
*has been so generously published by the 
horticulturists who have been studying the best growing condi¬ 
tions for plants has enabled us to select those types best adapted 
to our climate. 


Scientists have divided the members of the Lily family into 
three groups: (1) those that abhor lime, (2) those that tolerate it, 
and (3) those that seem to thrive under any soil condition. The 
type of soil required by each variety of Lily is often stated in the 
catalogues of the commercial growers who specialize in their 
cultivation. 


Less experimental work has been done by our amateur gardeners 
in the Southwest with Lilies than with any other family of plants. 
When we learn to plant the bulbs at the best season, just what soil 
they require, and the depth they should be planted in that soil, 
how they may be propagated, and the amount of shade and sun 
needed to perfect them, no doubt the number of bulbs and varie¬ 
ties grown will increase surprisingly. 

The interest in Lilies, particularly the hardy varieties, has in¬ 
creased tremendously in recent years, and it can be safely stated 
they are becoming the most popular of hardy bulbs, as they easily 
are the most regal. Not a little of this popularity has come from the 
lovely Lily Regale, lately brought from Western China to this 
country by the reverend E. H. Wilson. 


Lilies 
in the 
Southwest 


The 

Three 

Groups 


Study 

Lily 

Culture 


Increasing 

Popularity 

of 

Lilies 


117 


118 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


SPECIOSUM LILIES 

RUBRUM AND MELPOMENE 

The two most beautiful of all the Lilies that 
are growing in the writer’s garden are Kubrum 
and Melpomene of the Speciosum group. The 
blossoms, whose segments curl back, not unlike the well- 
known Tiger Lily , are "white, shaded rose and spotted 
crimson”. In coloring Melpomene differs from Kubrum 
only by its deeper tones. 

The bulbs of these Lilies should be planted from eight 
to twelve inches deep, for they are stem-rooting, and 
bulblets form between the main bulb and the surface 
of the soil. It is preferable to plant them in the Fall, 
although, as with most Lilies, they may be planted in 
the Spring. 

Unfortunately they do not flower until after the 
Spring pageantry of blossoms has passed, and those who 
are away from home during midsummer fail to see 
the tall graceful bloom-stalks whose blossoms range 
up and down, making a joyous pyramid of daintiness. 



UMBELLATUM 

The Umbellatum Lilies are a brilliant addition to our South¬ 
western gardens. They are perfectly hardy and multiply surpris¬ 
ingly well in our heavy soil. This variety does not seem to be very 
choosey about soil, as it is being grown in several locations where 
soil conditions vary greatly. 

Its blossom-time follows the Jonquils (April), and because 
it does not grow as tall as many other Lilies (only about two and 
one-half feet) its garden value lies in using it in clumps (groups) 
where a strong splash of color is desired. The shape of the flower, 
which clusters at the top of the bloom-stalk, is quite individual, 
while their color ranges from yellow and orange to a brick-dusty 
red. Named varieties are usually more to be desired than a varied 
collection, for one may thus select both color and height of stem. 
Orange and yellow Zinnias and Marigolds may be planted among 


LILIES 


119 


them, to follow them, where the same vivid note is needed until 
frost. 


MADONNA (LILIUM CANDIDUM) 

Madonna Lilies, like the Umbellatum, may be grown in groups, 
yet care must be taken that they never have a "hard” background, 
but must be protected by plants or shrubs having delicate blos¬ 
soms or foliage. 

TIGER LILIES 

The old Tiger Lily that is so common in many sections has been 
greatly improved by cultivation, and the new Tiger Lily is of 
such height and beauty that it takes its place among the Aristo¬ 
crats when placed in the proper setting. In early Spring it may 
be planted in sand, nine inches deep, singly or in small groups. It 
requires less water than most Lilies or bulbs. The bulbils that form 
in the axils of the leaves may be gathered or planted by bending 
the leaves over and covering them with sand. These bulbils will 
grow and flower in three years. (See page 122). 

HEMEROCALLIS 

Of outstanding interest is Mikado, a brilliant yellow with a 
large reddish blotch. Among the best of the older varieties, almost 
continuous bloomers, of a light lemon color are Flava and Flor - 
ham . Vesta, deep orange-yellow with traces of red and Golden 
Bell, have tremendous flowers, but are rather low-growing in 
comparison with Wau-Bun, with its dark green foliage and Ophir, 
a dark golden yellow which are among the latest to bloom. 

AMAZON LILY (EUCHARIS) 

A showy, fragrant Lily is only semi-hardy, requiring to be 
potted during the Winter months. 

LILY OF THE NILE (AGAPANTHUS) 

This gorgeous blue Lily also is semi-hardy, requiring to be 
potted. These two Lilies are most attractive used in those tubs or 


120 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


pots so necessary to create a Spanish atmosphere in that special type 
garden. 

LILY NOTES 

Lilies like their bloom-stalks in the sun, but their feet cool, so 
plant them among low-growing Annuals or Perennials, or near 
shrubs. 

There are many Lilies that will grow where the Dogwood is to 
be found that will not live elsewhere. 

The following Lilies, that have not been mentioned in the article 
on Culture of Lilies, were reported as growing in various sections 
(as may be noted, practically all these towns are not located in 
heavy limestone sections), but as no cultural directions were given 
nor indication as to how long they had been grown satisfactorily, 
they are merely listed. 

Brady— Crown Imperial. Denton— Elegans. El Paso and vicinity 
— Belladonna. Longview — Auratum, Longifolium and Eunkia 
(Plantain). Wichita Falls— Lilium Longifolium and Yellow Calla 
Lily. (Both grown on the south side of the house). 

Editors. 



Lily Culture 


. he lily has been written of for thousands of years. Bibli¬ 
cal writers of both the Old and New Testament extol its 
beauty. It is probable that "The Lily of the Field” in Holy 
Scriptures was the true Lilium Candidum, the Madonna Lily, this 
being a native of parts of the Holy Land. 

Lilies are native of the Northern Hemisphere, and extend 
around the world. China and Japan have furnished us with the 
greatest number of varieties, but Europe and North America have 
quite a number to their credit. 

SOIL 

There seems to be no general agreement as to what constitutes 


LILIES 


121 


the ideal soil for Lilies. However, if the beds are prepared prop¬ 
erly, the Lily will be grateful. My experience has been in sandy 
soil. Yet, I dig out my bed eighteen inches deep, put in about 
three inches of well-decayed compost of leaf-mold, cover this 
about six inches with natural (sandy) soil. The trench is then nine 
inches deep. 

To plant large bulbs, cover the bulb with three inches of same 
soil, then three inches of well-decayed cow manure, the remaining 
three inches cover with same mixture as first. This may apply in 
tight black or clay soil, but the bulbs should be planted seven 
inches instead of nine inches deep. (With all Lilies, he SURE to 
PRESS the bulbs FIRMLY into the sand, so that there are no 
air-pockets left under them. Root-growth will begin quicker and 
be more satisfactory.) Mix the covering soil with fifty per cent 
sand or peat-moss. 

All Lily beds should be slightly above the level of the ground 
to give the proper drainage. 

Grass-clippings, or leaves, make a good mulch to hold moisture 
in our climate. (See page 8). 

DEPTH TO PLANT 

In planting, distinction must be made between what is known as 
stem-rooting and those which only send their roots from the base 
of the bulb. Some of the better known varieties which send no 
roots from the stem are Madonna, Super bum, Martigon, and others. 
These bulbs should not be covered with more than two inches 
in stiff soil, and three inches in sand or 
loam. The Regale, Superbum, Auratum, 
Speciosum and others which root both at 
base of bulb and stem above the bulb 
should be covered seven to eight inches in 
stiff soil, and nine to twelve in sand. It is 
well, before planting, to sprinkle sulphur 
generously over all Lilies whose bulbs con¬ 
sist of loose scales, as a precaution against 
disease (Candium being an example of this 



Mulch 







122 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Bulblets 

°f , 

Regale 

Lily 


Splitting 

Seed 


Bulblets 

°f t 

Lilium 

Tigrinum 


Lily 

Seed 


type). These bulbs should be slightly tilted to one side, and entirely 
surrounded with sand, to give them the correct drainage. 

PROPAGATION 

I have had some experience in growing the Regale Lily. When 
the stalks are about dead, remove the dirt carefully and you will 
find an inch below the surface, down at the mother-bulb, bulb¬ 
lets, one-eighth to one-half inch in diameter, which you may 
remove. Grade these to size; plant immediately, and cover about 
three inches. 

Next year they will not bloom, but as soon as stalks become 
dry, dig and plant at once, about five inches deep. 

The following season these bulbs will produce from one to two 
blooms. 

The next year plant full depth, in their permanent home, and 
let them remain without disturbing for a number of years. I have 
some of these, three years old, which have had as many as fourteen 
blooms. 

This Lily also has the habit of making the mother-bulb split. 
In lifting them after three or four years one may find several large, 
well-formed bulbs. 

I have never grown this Lily from seed, which I understand is 
easily done; I prefer getting them from the stem, as previously 
described. 

I have grown several thousand Lilium Tigrinum from bulblets 
which form in the axil of each leaf. Gather these while the plants 
are blooming. Plant immediately in flats, cold frames, or open 
ground. Cover two inches deep, and keep moist by mulching. 
After a year’s growth, plant five inches deep, and the following 
year, regular depth of eight or ten inches. I understand quite a 
few other varieties of Lilies are propagated in this way. Still others 
are grown from scales, and must have expert attention. 

Lilies can be grown from seed, but seeds of different varieties 
should not be planted together, because some kinds germinate 
within two weeks, while others require six months or more. Con¬ 
tinued moisture is needed to create germination. This is injurious 


LILIES 


123 


to young plants. If the slow-growing kind are kept moist enough, 
it would naturally dampen off those young plants that have begun 
to grow. Therefore, it is best to plant each variety in separate 
flats. 

Lily seeds should be planted in cold frames or flats in Febru¬ 
ary or March, but later in open ground. Cover the frames with 
glass or canvas. Barely cover seed in planting. Gunny sacks, kept 
moist, placed over the bed, quicken germination. Watch closely 
and lift the sacks as soon as the seedlings appear. Seedlings should 
remain in flats or cold frames until the following Spring. Prick 
them out and plant shallow, about two or three inches. The fol¬ 
lowing year they may be planted full depth, provided the bulbs are 
one-half inch or more in diameter . I mention diameter because 
most catalogues describe bulbs as to size in circumference, which 
is very deceptive and disappointing to the average buyer. 

Hardy Lily bulbs can be planted any month in the year by 
carefully lifting and planting. If possible, try to secure domestic 
bulbs. Imported bulbs are often out of the ground so long that 
they do not make a good root-system the first year. These direc¬ 
tions apply particularly to these Lilies whose bulbs are composed 
of scales or slabs. 

A number of varieties that have a smooth, onion-like bulb have 
proved quite successful in the Southwest, as there are several that 
are native to this section. 

SPIDER OR GUERNSEY LILY 

The Guernsey (Nerine, Spider, Resurrection or Coral) Lily is 
of wonderful texture and construction, valuable for cutting and 
perfectly hardy. They become dormant in late Spring; and the 
bulbs, therefore, should be planted during June and July. Early in 
September bloom-stalks spring up about two feet out of the bare 
ground and make a striking appearance with their odd, unusual- 
colored flowers clustered at the top of the stalk. After blooming, 
the foliage starts and remains green all winter. 

The strange habits and unusual season of blooming of the 
Spider Lily (or Guernsey ) and the Hy brant bus suggest unusual 


Separate 

Varieties 

in 

Planting 


When and 
How to 
Plant 
Lily Seed 


Time of 
Planting 


Smooth 

Bulbs 


Culture 


124 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


care in selecting a suitable location. They are especially effective if 
used in masses or bordering shrubbery. These Lilies may be divided 
or transplanted immediately after flowering, before the leaves 
appear. 

HYBRANTHUS (HABRANTHUS) 

Hybranthus comes about the same time as the Guernsey Lily , 
and has the same strange habit of blooming before the leaves ap¬ 
pear. The flowers are a bright crimson. It gives excellent results 
planted either in shade or in sun. (See page 122). It is listed among 
the Hippeastrums. 


RAIN LILIES 


Rain White and pink Rain Lilies and Zephyranthes, some native to 

Lilies Texas, are useful as border plants. They bloom at intervals all 

Summer, after every rain. (See page 64.) 


The various showy Crinums grow well in this sec¬ 
tion. The well-known Milk and Wine blooms from 
August to frost. The Snow-White Angel with its crown of 
gorgeous white bells, begin blooming in May and June, and 
has been known to have as many as twenty-two flowers on one 
stalk. A mature bulb will sometimes produce five or 
six stalks. Lily of the Dawn, a lovely blush-pink, flowers 
from July to frost. The Deep Sea Lily flowers all sea¬ 
son, beginning in June. It is a free bloomer. The flower 
is of good texture and is very valuable for cutting. 
Many people hesitate to grow Crinums because of the 
amount of room their wide, light-green drooping 
leaves require. Gladioli may be planted rather near 
them, and Petunias thoroughly enjoy using their 
leaves to climb up on as a sort of natural trellis. 

They seem to like a sandy soil, and do better when 
the heavier soil has sand mixed in it, yet they will 
grow fairly well without the sand. [Crinums are 












LILIES 


125 


planted, or divided, in the Spring at the same time that Tuberoses 
(see page 126) are planted . Place the long, large bulbs so that the 
top is on the level of the ground .] With them it is never wise to let 
fertilizer touch the bulb . This is true of all Lilies. Yet they need 
the additional nourishment, or feeding, gained by placing it in 
the ground surrounding the plant. This extra nourishment will 
always be received by the bulbs much quicker if the ground is 
scratched or loosened well an inch or two in depth before scat¬ 
tering the fertilizer. It is appreciated especially when the bloom- 
stalks are forming. 

HEMEROCALLIS 

The Lemon Lily or Day Lily, as the various varieties of this 
family are known, has its place in every garden. It is propagated 
by root division. There are many varieties, growing from one 
to six feet in height and have a blooming period from early Spring 
to late Fall. The colors range from lemon to deep orange. The 
Double Orange (Kwanso) grows five feet tall and is very hand¬ 
some, a brighter orange than the single Tawny Lily (Fulva), (See 
page 119). 

From information furnished by 

Pearl Van Horn Stuart 
SOME OLD-FASHIONED FAVORITES 

TUBEROSE 

A quarter of a century ago there were three favorites in the 
Southwestern gardens that have been pushed aside for newer, 
more popular plants. There were the Tuberose, the Canna, and the 
Caladium. 

The Tuberose is the only one of the three whose blossoms are 
treasured for their extreme heavy sweetness, although their tall 
spikes of milk-white flowers have a beauty all their own. These 
come later than most Lilies (late August and early September), 
and are perfectly hardy. There can be secured today an improved 
variety, much larger and taller than the old-time variety, known 
as the Mexican Tuberose . Tuberoses should be planted in Spring, 


Preferences 


Culture of 
Hemerocallis 


Three 

Old 

Varieties 


Tuberose 

Culture 


126 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Varied Color 
Range and 
Tone 


Tropical 

Plant 


Semi- 

Hardy 


As 

Screens 


Caladium 

Culture 


with not more than an inch of earth covering the top of the bulb, 
unless there is an earth-stain on the stalk which indicates the depth 
the plant had been covered. This is true, also, of other bulbs and 
tubers. 

CANNA 

The newer varieties of Canna demonstrate the fact that they, 
too, have received recognition and have profited by the cultiva¬ 
tion and attention given them by plant experts. 

They vary in statue from two and one-half feet to those that 
tower above one’s head. Their colors, that once startled one with 
their brilliancy, have become subdued and softened, and are in 
better accord with other flowers. The blossoms are large and range 
in color from white through yellow to deep maroon. 

Because of the fact that Cannas are rather coarse, with their 
large tropical leaves, they do not combine well with most other 
plants and shrubs. A more pleasing effect is gained by planting 
them in clumps wherever one wishes to give a definitely tropical 
effect. 

Cannas multiply very rapidly and their roots spread in every 
direction. If planted near perennials or shrubs, they crowd out 
the other plants. 

Some varieties of Cannas are perfectly hardy, but many should 
have protection. So in the latitude of Dallas it is safer to take them 
out of the ground and store during the Winter months. 

They have been used extensively as quick-growing hedges or 
screens, although the fact that they die down at the first frost 
makes them questionable for this purpose, especially in the north¬ 
ern portion of the Southwest. 

CALADIUM (ELEPHANT EARS) 

Another bulbous plant that has always been associated with the 
Canna is the Caladium (or Elephant Ears). These, like the Cannas, 
are semi-hardy, for they only weather the mild Winters. They, 
too, should be taken up after the leaves die down in the Fall, 
planted again in the Spring, with only a light covering of earth 
on top of the crown of the bulb. 


LILIES 


127 


Caladiums are grown for the decorative qualities of their tre¬ 
mendous leaves that so distinctly resemble huge Elephant’s Ears. 
These leaves reach unbelievable proportions, if the bulbs are 
planted in sandy, rather moist, soil. The Lily-like, odd blossom is 
completely hidden. 

LIRIOPE (LILY TURF) 

Liriope graminifolia, with its grass-like leaves, is valuable as a 
ground-cover. (See page 203). It seems to grow in any soil. Its 
spikes of lilac to deep purple flowers are not produced freely in 
the shade. 


OPHIOPOGON (JAPONICA) 

belongs to the Lily family, and is excellent as a border plant, in 
flower boxes or as a ground-cover. (See page 203). It is surpris¬ 
ingly vigorous under trying conditions. It resembles the Liriope. 


BLEEDING HEART (DICENTRA SPECTABLIS) 

(dicentra Formosa) The wild variety 

Bleeding-Heart, which is usually classed among the bulbs, has ^ Option 
lovely, pendant, heart-shaped blossoms that appear in the early 0 f 
Spring. Its foliage is unusually attractive, but has the habit of dis- p%Y a e g e and 
appearing before Summer is well advanced. 

This plant is especially fine in a rockery, for its racemes 
of drooping, pink flowers lend contrast to those 
plants generally selected for the hillside. It must 
be placed in the Fall and in a location that is pro- i 
tected from mid-day and afternoon sun. 

ISMENE CALATHINA OR PERUVIAN DAFFODIL 

(Of the Hymenocallis family) 

The Great Ismene is a beautiful addition 
to the list of bulbous plants which we in 
our mild climate may have, although it is 
not hardy in all sections of our Southwest. 

Its large, pure white, amaryllis-like bios- 



128 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


When and 
How to 
Plant 


Care 

During 

Winter 


The 

Varieties 

°f 

Amaryllis 


Hybrids 


Adaptability 
as a 
Plant 


soms are fragrant and bring a distinct charm to the Summer gar¬ 
den. "For such beauty in an unusual flower, its requirements are 
not too exacting, although they must be met"'.” 

The bulbs should be planted in the Spring, two or three inches 
below the surface of the ground. To prepare the soil for planting, 
dig deep and mix in a generous supply of fertilizer to nourish the 
large feeder-roots at the base of the bulb, taking care, as with 
Lilies and Iris, that the fertilizer does not touch these roots. 

Before the first heavy frost, dig the bulbs, leaving the tops 
on until dry (as with Daffodils). Cut these off (about four inches 
above the bulb), and when the latter have become thoroughly 
dried, store in a shallow basket (where the temperature is mod¬ 
erately cool, without moisture) until Spring. 

AMARYLLIS 

Among the most gorgeous of all the bulbous plants which are 
grown extensively in the Southwest are the Amaryllis. They are 
especially noted for their clear, beautiful tones of red. Some have 
solid color with a whitish star in the throat (Hippeastrum Regi- 
nae). Others have a white stripe down the cen¬ 
ter of each petal (Johnsonii), while still others 
have every conceivable combination of red on 
white, which are seen in the so-called 
Hybrids, the markings of many of 
which are more pink than red. 

These latter may be grown from seed 
and, as they cannot be relied on as a 
parent stock, it is impossible to know 
the exact markings to be expected. 

However, all of them are interesting and 
striking. 

Amaryllis is one of the most adaptable 
of the bulb family, for it may be used 
as a window or indoor plant, or for 




* Mrs. W. H. Benners. 









LILIES 


129 


bedding purposes (in a spot where they should not be disturbed 
for a number of years). 

In planning for Winter bloom, these large bulbs should be 
placed quite early in the Fall in pots but very little larger than the 
bulb (which should rise one-fourth of its depth above the surface 
of the soil in which it is planted). Settle the dirt firmly around 
the bulb by watering. Then place the pots where it is dark and 
cool until the leaves appear. Bring the plant gradually out into the 
full sunlight. 

When planted out-of-doors the bulb should be covered with at 
least two inches of dirt. 

Amaryllis do not combine well with other flowers, therefore 
should be placed in beds to themselves or in front of a shrubbery 
border. 

GLADIOLI 

As the Zinnia is by far the outstanding annual, so the Gladiolus 
is the most adaptable of the family of bulbs. It can be planted at 
intervals during the entire season, to blossom at any desired time 
in order to supply a special splash of color at a certain spot in the 
garden. It will rarely fail to produce its flower-spikes at the end 
of six weeks after planting. Its color range is almost unlimited, so 
that one may form exquisite combinations with other plants. 
Nothing could be more beautiful than the tall Hemerocallis 
Golden Bell , and a group of salmon-pink Gladioli. 

This tiny little bulb that produces but one flowerstalk a season 
boasts a society formed of its admirers whose hundreds of members 
are interested in its culture. 

Gladioli are most effective when planted some five or more in 
a circle, with a supporting stake in the center. They should not 
be planted less than five inches deep. They may be left in the 
ground, for they are hardy in the Southwest, but will often dis¬ 
appear after the third or fourth year. However, they may be dug 
each year, dried in shallow baskets, and kept in a dry, moderately 
cool place, through the Winter. 


Culture 
in Pots 


Culture 

Out-of- 

Doors 

Place 


Quick 

Dependable 

Growth 


Most 

Effective 

Planting 


Editor. 








Iris 


W he Iris is revered for its stately beauty; it is beloved for 
M its dainty perfection. It can be found flourishing in 
iMi, marshy places and blooming cheerfully on mud and 
thatched roofs, proclaiming to all its adaptability to every con¬ 
dition. It is at home in many parts of the world, yet each section 
produces a plant having distinct and individual characteristics. 

This old, yet ever new flower, is creating the greatest interest 
in the flower-loving world; in fact its popularity all but rivals 
the Tulip craze that swept through Europe some years ago. 

To appreciate a bit of its fascination, one need only possess a 
small collection of the various types with their alluring tones and 
shades. 

Horticulturalists have classified the Iris into three general 
groups—Bearded Iris, Beardless Iris, and Bulbous Iris. 

The Bearded Iris has been so classed because of the line of tiny 
hair-like fuzz that is to be found on the three lower petals, or 
falls, at the curve of their upper surface. This so-called "beard” is 
one of the distinguishing features of this class. The root-growth 
is another item of unusual interest. This is composed of a thick, 
bulb-like root-stock that grows horizontally along the surface of 
the ground. From these "rhizomes” the feeder-roots extend down 
into the soil. The size of this root-stock does not typify the size 
of the blossoms, however, for some of the varieties having large 
flowers have notably small rhizomes. 

Bearded Iris, like Roses, do not like wet feet. The chief require¬ 
ment in the selection of a location is good drainage and plenty of 
sunlight. Experience has proved, however, that they do not need as 
much sunlight here as they do in the North, but will bloom very 
satisfactorily in partial shade. The lighter shades are more deli- 


Classifi- 
cation 


Bearded 

Iris 


Character¬ 

istics 


Location 


131 


132 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Culture 


When to 
Plant 


Clumps 


Mass 

Effect 



cate if they are not subjected to the rays of the sun all day and 
hold their color better. 

The correct way to plant Iris has caused much discussion, and 
many articles have been written on the 
subject. Possibly a different method is 
required in each part of the country. In 
the Southwest we find that the ground 
should be carefully prepared by taking 
off the topsoil, then spading deep, mixing 
a good fertilizer well into this lower soil 
to nourish the long feeder-roots and in- 
how To n7* an Xf*'* duce them to grow deeply downward 
that the plant may withstand the rigors of the winds the more 
easily. Next surround the rhizomes with the topsoil, taking care 
that no fertilizer touches them, for it may cause the dreaded 
root-rot. 

The experience of growers in this section has been that only 
the strongest plants can survive if planted after the ground is 
thoroughly heated, yet should it become necessary to plant them 
during July and August, cover the rhizomes with one or two 
inches of soil, provided no water stands around them and they 
keep quite dry. When cool weather comes, remove this covering 
of dirt to prevent rotting during the rainy season. 

Planted in June they will become established before the very 
hot weather, but a small amount of soil should be kept over them 
during the Summer. Plants secured near by or subdivided in one’s 
own garden, if the roots are not allowed to become dry, can be 
safely planted in June. 

September seems to be the ideal time for planting if purchased 
from distant growers. Planted at that time the top of the rhizomes 
should be set on the level with the ground. These directions apply 
to single divisions, for clumps of Iris can be transplanted at any 
time during the year if well watered. 

Iris require several years to become established if planted as 
single rhizomes, therefore, to get a mass effect, it is advisable to 
plant several of a kind in a group about six inches apart with the 



IRIS 


133 


fans pointing in different directions in order that the effect will 
be of a large clump when blooming. 

Iris should not be divided until they have become matted and 
crowded. Those varieties that multiply rapidly should be separated 
in three years, while others may remain untouched for several 
years. 

It is a mistake to think that one cannot have a desirable collec¬ 
tion of Iris without undue expense, for the price is entirely de¬ 
termined by the abundance of the supply on the market. Some 
varieties multiply very slowly and continue high priced, while 
the new varieties that receive high rating and special awards are 
very expensive for a time. 

Bearded Iris have been subdivided into three classes that follow 
each other as to time of blooming, prolonging the season for many 
months. 

The Iris season opens early in the new year with the Dwarfs that 
can be found in yellow, blue and purple. The Dwarf Iris are so 
called because of shortness of stem (seldom growing more than 
nine inches) rather than size of blossom. The earliest varieties 
have very short stems, but as the season advances, the height 
increases. This class includes Iris pumila, the pseudo-pumila and 
chamaeiris, all of whom grow from creeping rhizomes. 

These early varieties are followed in March by the well-known 
"Blue, and White Flags” of our Grandmothers’ gardens. These have 
been little valued, possibly because they demand so little care, 
though more probably because they bloom so early in the season 
that the prevailing Spring winds often mar their delicate beauty. 
This variety is more fragile than some of the later ones, and they 
are easily bruised. Yet nothing can be more beautiful than a 
large clump of the lovely Blue, whose name is listed as Germanica, 
growing in well-drained, rich garden soil, especially if Jonquils 
or light yellow wall-flowers nestle at their feet. Its companion, the 
White Flag, or Florentina, has long been identified with the Mo¬ 
hammedans who have carried it with them wherever they have 
journeyed, to be used for the ornamentation of their burial places. 
This custom has made it impossible to determine its place of 


Dividing 


Iris 

Need Not 
Be Ex¬ 
pensive 


Season 

of 

Bloom 


Dwarf 

Iris 


Flags 


Blue 

Germanica 


White 

Florentina 


134 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Intermedi¬ 

ates 


Time of 
Bloom 


Great 
Range of 
Choice 


The Best 

White 

Varieties 


origin. For many centuries this delicate, white Florentine* has been 
loved for its beauty of blossom and greatly valued for the perfume 
derived from powdering the dried roots. This Orris-root has been, 
until quite recently, the best artificial violet scent. 

Kochi , a native of Italy, a very lovely dark purple, blooms 
about the same time. This Iris has an added value in that it often 
blooms a second time, at the end of the Iris season. Kochi is the 
forerunner of a large group of what are known as Intermediates . 
Of these the most popular is Rose Unique , one of the late Mr. 
Farr’s creations. It is the earliest of the pinks. Until the last few 
years not many Intermediates were introduced because the breed¬ 
ers of Iris were directing their attention toward creating Tall- 
Bearded varieties. Nympth (a deep yellow), Z ua, whose exquisite 
fragrance and crinkle-paper appearance make it most unique and 
Z wanenburg, with its unusual, mottled coloring, very odd-looking, 
are most desirable. Intermediates are of special value in the garden 
because of their early-blooming period. 

TALL BEARDED IRIS 

April is the height of the Iris season in the Southwest. A great 
adventure is in store for those gardeners who have yet to learn 
the value of the newer Tall Bearded Iris. 

In the last twenty years a host of varieties, some most brilliant, 
others delicate and exquisite as the beloved Orchid, have been 
developed. This has been done with several ideals in view. One 
group of scientists have striven for color, or the combination of 
colors, while another has been occupied with the effort to com¬ 
bine size and durability of blossom with beauty of form. There¬ 
fore, one finds difficulty in making a selection, even from the 
multitude of desirable old ones that have continued to hold their 
place with the newer creations, which are introduced each year, 
each boasting some alluring feature. 

Among the lighter-toned varieties that give the effect of white, 
what could be lovelier than Fairy with its pencilings of blue? Yet 
San Francisco , one of the new plicates, is much more beautiful. 
Purissama has been considered the finest pure white for a number 


IRIS 


135 


of years, sharing honors with Micheline Charraire, which has a de¬ 
cidedly creamy tone. An interesting creamy-white is Gaviota, a 
more moderately priced Iris. Mildred Presby is quite surprising 
with its white standards and velvety pansy falls. 

It would be impossible to give even a partial list of the desirable 
light blue and lavender Iris, but no collection would be complete 
without the old Pallida Dalmatica or Princess Beatrice, as a form 
of it is called. Queen Caterina and Ballerine are both extremely 
good. The latter is not a true self (standards and falls the same 
shade) for its falls are a little different from the standards. Santa 
Barbara is a wonderful variety which has reached a moderate price, 
while Sensation is all its name implies. Juaniata, a darker blue self, 
is especially desirable because it blooms rather late. 

There are a host of pinks which are not pink at all but quite 
lavender, that are charming under either name. Georgia is one of 
the earliest of these to blossom, followed by Susan Bliss and Dream, 
which are among the latest to bloom. Freda Mohr, Allure and Pink 
Satin are among the most beautiful of the pinks. 

There is a comparatively small group of red Iris, the most bril¬ 
liant of which in our climate is Seminole. If planted in semi-shade, 
the color appears much more vivid. Opera is a different tone and 
is a general favorite. Dauntless is extremely vigorous, and seems 
very adaptable to this climate. It is tall, velvety, handsome and 
very attractive. 

Ambassadeur, quite the best of the moderately-priced bronzes, 
should be included in every collection. Mrs. Valeri West, a most 
gorgeous dark Iris, may also be classed with the bronzes. This Iris 
was considered by its originator, the late Mr. A. J. Bliss, as the 
culmination of his efforts at Iris breeding. The marvelous velvety 
texture of its falls proclaims it a descendant of his great creation, 
Dominion, whose advent in the Iris world was the forerunner of 
a new race much more magnificent than any that had preceded it. 

The most striking of the whole family are the Bicolors that 
have yellow standards, and reddish or purplish falls. Iris King, a 
fine old variety, Arginnis, Flamenschwert and Gay Hussar are 
among the best. 


Light Blue 
and 

Lavender 

Varieties 


Vink 

Varieties 


Red 

Varieties 


Bronze 

Varieties 


Bi-colors 


136 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Yellow 

Varieties 


Blends 


Light 

Blends 


Dark 

Blends 


The hybridizers have vied with each other for several years to 
produce a yellow that had all the qualities of the darker-toned 
Iris. As a result there are a number from which a selection may 
be made. Shekinah (by Miss Sturtevant) continues a favorite, al¬ 
though it was the first good yellow produced. Bonita is not large 
in my garden but looks like a golden ball on the top of its tall, 
slender stem. Coronation is large and fine, retaining its color in 
full sunlight. Noticeable among the yellow blends that are very 
unusual in their colorings are Ochracea and Sonata, while Jubilee 
is most charming. 

While it is a question if the real, great yellow has been developed, 
yet there is no debating the fact that through their endeavors a 
splendid group of blends have appeared, magnificent in their 
strength and beauty. All these have a varying amount of yellow 
that blends with lavender and purple and blue in every conceiv¬ 
able manner. This class has been divided into two groups, the 
light and dark blends. 

Quaker Lady, as demure as its name implies, Isoline, whose pastel 
shades are particularly pleasing, Midgard and Nusku are but a 
few of the light blends. 

The dark blends with their deep, glowing colors, are particu¬ 
larly attractive. There are a number of very beautiful ones, vary¬ 
ing in price, but none has excelled Alcazar, which created a sen¬ 
sation when it was introduced some years ago. It multiplies rapidly 
and has tall, strong stems, carrying magnificent large blossoms 
that do not fade in the bright sunlight. Because it is especially 
suited to the climate, it might well be called the King of the Iris 
in the Southwest. 


IRIS IN ARID SECTIONS 

It has been claimed that there can be found a variety of Iris 
for every climatic condition. So where high winds prevail, it is 
Ty^e^and suggested that the strongest, and those listed as having stems of 
Treatment medium height, be selected. The catalogues usually state the length 
of the stem and the quality of both stem and blossom. By using 
shrubs as windbreaks or planting them where the house will pro- 


IRIS 


137 


tect them, better results will be secured, for Iris will bloom very 
satisfactorily even in partial shade. 

The yellows and delicate blends seem to have the most fragile 
blossoms. The darker-toned have proved most sturdy, wind-re¬ 
sistant and adaptable to all conditions. 

Monsignor was quite a favorite some years ago, but it has been 
discarded by many for more desirable varieties. It has, however, 
the qualifications of being able to thrive under most adverse con¬ 
ditions. 

Possibly the most drought-resistant Iris are the Regalia and 
Oncocyclus Hybrids. But possibly the Pogo-cyclus group will 
be found the most adaptable to our far Western gardens. (See 
page 139). 

BEARDLESS AND BULBOUS IRIS 

A number of interesting types of Iris have been grouped to¬ 
gether and are known as Beardless Iris. These desire similar treat¬ 
ment which differs greatly from that usually considered best for 
Bearded Iris. They like moisture during the growing season and are 
supposed to object to lime, although many varieties have been 
grown very successfully in our heavy limestone section. 

Try to select a moist but sunny location, and plant in soil that 
contains a generous amount of well-rotted manure. The crowns 
(or top of root-growth) should be covered with about two inches 
of soil. 

The Beardless Iris are not grown extensively in the Southwest, 
but the tall-growing Ochroleuca (see page 142) is probably the 
best known. Its long, narrow leaves are quite distinctive, while its 
wealth of white blossoms with a light yellow blotch near the 
center of the petals always suggest a flight of white butterflies. 
My experience has been that it will not tolerate water around its 
roots after blooming. The one objection to it is that the leaves 
often die down after the seed-pods have matured, leaving a large, 
bare spot (to provide for which, quick-growing annuals—Cleome, 
if height is desired, Marigolds, or low-growing Petunias—are sugr 
gested). 


Monsignor 


Regalia and 
Oncocyclus 
Hybrids 


Beardless 


Location 


Ochroleuca 


138 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Kaempferi 


Siberican 


Specie 


Those 
Native 
to the 
Southwest 



The so-called Japanese Iris has not proved de¬ 
pendable as a garden flower for us. It requires 
special care and more often proves a disappoint¬ 
ment, rather than a pleasure. The blossoms are so 
exquisite that a strain adaptable to our climatic 
conditions would be most welcome. This desired 
strain will possibly be secured from seedlings scien¬ 
tifically developed. If in turn seeds can be secured 
from these seedlings, naturally or by hybridization, 
a race of acclimated plants should be the result. 
Japanese Iris seed will mature if planted in the 
Spring but it is much more advisable to plant them 
in the Fall. 

The Siberican group are of special value because 
they will grow in partial shade (further informa¬ 
tion regarding this variety will be found on page 141). 

The Iris is native in general to the North Temperate Zone, the 
majority being found in the far Eastern Asiatic countries, although 
America contributes several varieties. All native Iris in this coun¬ 
try and abroad are classified as Specie. The American Specie of the 
Southern States, particularly, due to the newly aroused interest in 
this type of Iris, are being rapidly destroyed by collectors and un¬ 
trained admirers who have not taken the precaution of leaving a 
sufficient number to replenish and propagate. 

There are several varieties indigenous to our own section of the 
country. Among these Iris versicolor is said to be quite 
abundant in East Texas"*, Iris hexagonaj grows near 
College Station, Texas, and Iris fulva, native to many 
places in the South (see page 64), grows in the East^ 

Texas swamps, also. It has been learned from the ques¬ 
tionnaire that native Iris exist in several other localities, 
although these have not been identified as to variety. 

When native Iris are transplanted into one’s garden, 
they should and must be supplied with the same living 



♦Foster, Texas. 
fYarnell, Texas. 




IRIS 


139 


conditions to which they have been accustomed. The degree of 
semi-shade or bright sunlight, as well as soil and moisture con¬ 
ditions, should all be most carefully considered. 

REGELIA AND ONCOCYCLUS AND THEIR HYBRIDS 

This group are the most drought-resistant of all Iris, but are 
quite the most erratic and difficult to grow in the Atlantic Coast 
States. They are all natives of the hilly regions of Asia Minor, 
where the winters are cold and the summers are hot and dry with¬ 
out any rainfall. They bloom earlier than the Tall-Bearded and, 
like them, are lime-lovers. Possibly the best known variety of this 
group is Susiana, distinctive for its peculiar form and color, while 
Korolkowi and Hoogiana, both natives of Turkestan, are also most 
interesting examples. 

POGOCYCLUS 

A group called Pogocyclus that are the result of crossing the 
Oncocyclus and the Tall-Bearded, may prove to be of special in¬ 
terest to gardeners of the arid sections, for they do not demand 
the dormant period that the Oncocyclus require, yet will endure 
drier conditions than the Tall-Bearded. A good collection of Pogo¬ 
cyclus include Psyche, Shiraz, Xwanenburg, Nazarin and lb-Pall. 

EVANSIA 

Another small but distinct class is known as Evansia, whose chief 
characteristic is the ragged crest which replaces the well known 
"beard” of our familiar varieties. A detailed account may be found 
of these delightful little plants in Mr. Wister’s article. (See 
page 145). 


BULBOUS 

The Spanish, Dutch and English compose the Bulbous Iris group 
(see page 146). They are very showy and are of value if used 
singly, or in groups as points of accent in the border. The colors Spanish 
of the Spanish are white, yellow, brown and blue, while the and Dut 
English include the lavender, deep mauve, and violet tones. The 


140 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Dutch are usually white and shades of blue, the most outsta tding 
being Wedgewood. This must not be confused with the Tall- 
Bearded of the same name. These blossom with the Tall-Bearded 
and do not prolong the season of bloom in the Southwest. The 
Spanish and Dutch Iris require a dry situation, multiply well and 
are exceedingly desirable; while the English prefer partial shade 
and moist, rich soil. 

Marian Price Scruggs. 





*Iris for Trial 

in the Southwest * 

he Southwest is so large and has so many different cli¬ 
matic, soil and moisture conditions that what will succeed 
in one part will not grow in another. But there are many places 
where various species of Iris can undoubtedly be well grown where 
they have not at present been attempted because the interest in 
Iris has not been great, and because it has been simpler merely to 
grow the Bearded Iris and not attempt any of the more unusual 
kinds. 

Bearded Iris like sunshine, heat and dryness and there are many 
situations on high, drained land where they succeed well. A long 
season can be had by having Dwarf Bearded Iris, Intermediate 
Iris, Germanica types and Oncocyclus-hybrids, ending with Tall- 
Bearded Hybrids. The progress that breeders have made in these 
varieties in the last ten or twenty years is astounding. Few gar¬ 
deners who have not visited recent Iris Shows can realize how much 
they are missing by not planting some of the modern kinds. 

There are many Beardless Iris which are worthy of a trial. I 
wish to suggest to adventurous gardeners in the different sec¬ 
tions that they try some of the kinds which I am about to men¬ 
tion. Some of them will undoubtedly succeed in many parts of the 
Southwest. Others may succeed only in a few parts and only 
under special attention. 

The Siberica Section is one of the largest and one of the easiest 
to grow. Many of these undoubtedly will do well if given a situa¬ 
tion where they can have a little extra moisture in the Spring 
months. The best known are the varieties of the species Siberica, 

♦The writer of this article, John C. Wister, is an authority on Iris and other bulbous 
plants. He has written many valuable articles for various publications, and has published 
several books on these subjects. 


Conditions 


Bearded 
Iris in 
Succession 
of Bloom 


Beardless 

Iris 

Suggested 
for Trial 


Sib eric an 
Iris 


141 



142 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Siberica 

and 

Orientalis 


Hybrids 


Spuria 

Iris 


Ochroleuca 


Aurea 


Wild Iris 

Foliosa 

Fulva 


orientalis and their hybrids. Of these Emperor , Perry’s Blue, 
Lactea and Snow Queen are some of the best known, but there 
are many new varieties being introduced from Europe and also 
from one or more American breeders, notably Mrs. Frances Cleve¬ 
land. The best varieties usually combine the height of Siberica 
with the flower of orientalis but the color range is not large, 
running through the whites, blues and purples mainly, although 
reddish purples ( Red Emperor ) are coming in. There are a num¬ 
ber of other species belonging to the Siberica group which are 
worthy of trial. Among them are Forrestti, Wilsoni and chryso- 
graphes. Plants of these are not easy to obtain and it is probably 
best to grow them from seed, which can be had from specialists 
in this country and abroad. 

An important group which deserves a thorough trial is the 
Spuria group. Some of its species (from which the group receives 
its name) ought certainly to grow in many sections. Others are a 
little bit more finicky as to moisture and soil conditions, but are 
very well worth extra effort. At least they should be tried until 
it is known which ones can or cannot succeed. The first of these tc 
be considered is Ochroleuca , which, under good conditions, some¬ 
times grows five feet high. Smaller than Ochroleuca but a very 
fine flower of clear golden yellow is Aurea (not to be confused 
with a Bearded Iris of the same name). I have never been very 
successful with this in Philadelphia and find it best to grow a few 
plants each year from seed. The plants I have bloom well but do 
not increase much. Other types to be considered here are Monneiri, 
Monspur and Ochraurea. 

A group which certainly needs much closer attention from all 
gardeners is the group that comprises the wild Iris foliosa and 
fulva as they grow in our Southern states. Plants under this name 
have been in cultivation for many years in the North and have 
been more or less unsatisfactory on account of shy bloom. But 
they seem to be perfectly hardy as far north as Boston and some¬ 
times even into Canada. The hybrids fulva and fulvala and viola- 
cea as grown by Dykes, and Dorothy K. Williamson as grown by 
Williamson, have been better known in gardens than their parent 


IRIS 


143 


species and do well apparently over a greater climatic range. Cer¬ 
tainly these should be tried in all parts of the Southwest, for they 
are lovely things. 

Recent botanical explorations by Dr. John M. Small'"* have 
brought to light not only new species, but new color-forms in 
known species which are closely related either to fulva or foliosa 
or to versicolor. It is too early to tell how well they will succeed 
under different conditions, but it is certainly well to draw the 
attention of gardeners to the fact that here are not only interesting 
new species from a botanical point of view, but many interesting 
new colors from the garden point of view. The fulva types par¬ 
ticularly run from the usual red color to a deeper crimson on 
one side and yellowish colors on the other. Yet the beautiful species 
fulva is rather sparse blooming under most garden conditions. It 
is, however, well worthy of a place in any garden, no matter how 
small, because it is so absolutely unique in its color, its terra cotta 
red being very seldom seen in out-door flowers. The possibilities 
of this species are only just beginning to be appreciated by plant 
breeders. 

While botanists are disagreeing among each other as to which 
of these plants deserves specific rank and which are varieties, it is 
interesting for gardeners to know that Dr. George M. Reedf, and 
probably other breeders, have produced many of the color similar 
to those on the flowers Dr. Small has found wild, by growing sec¬ 
ond generation seedlings of the hybrid Dorothy A. Williamson. 
It looks as if we were just beginning to understand what valuable 
wild species we have in this country and to make use of them 
for plant breeding. Some of these types undoubtedly grow as far 
west as Texas, but if they are not found wild in certain sections, 
they should at least be tried there in gardens. 

There are many native American beardless Irises. The California 
group, often admired by visitors to the Yosemite, are apparently 
hardy along the Atlantic Coast, but are most difficult garden 
plants, as they resent any disturbance of their roots. They should 
always be grown from seed, therefore, and planted where they 
are to stay. They are certainly not plants for the casual garden, 


New 

Specie 


Fulva 


Specific 
Rank in the 
New Specie 


Pacific 

Coast 


* New York Botanical Garden. 
tBrooklyn Botanical Garden. 



144 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Wild 

Varieties 


Iris 

Versicolor 
Wild on 
Atlantic 
Coast 


Kaempferi 

of 

Japanese 
Iris Wild 
in Asia 


but more for the choice places in the rock garden. Although they 
like and require moisture in the Spring months, they must get a 
thorough baking and ripening after their growing season is over. 

Another important group of Iris includes the wild Iris of our 
Atlantic Coast from Labrador almost to Florida and west almost 
to the Rockies, which is Iris versicolor. This is a beautiful species 
for naturalizing along river banks, ponds or swamps. I am not 
able to tell whether it would need water in the Southwest, but it 
does not need it in gardens in our middle or central states. Very 
closely related to versicolor is the Iris of Europe, pseudacorus, the 
species from which the Fleur de Lis has been taken as a patriotic 
emblem. This plant grows wild in many different climates from 
Sweden on the north through England on to the continent and 
down into Spain and Italy. As yet we know very little about its 
different types, nor do we know definitely whether varieties from 
the different sections vary in hardiness. The type commonly grown 
in this country is hardy in our Iris growing states but is not of 
great importance unless grown in masses and given moist condi¬ 
tions. It may need irrigation under the hotter sun of the South¬ 
west to make it grow well and to make the flowers large and the 
stems tall. Its color is a splendid clear yellow. 

A third closely related species is Kaempferi from which the 
famous Japanese Irises have been developed. These are much more 
finicky as to soil and moisture conditions than most Irises. Curi¬ 
ously enough, they can be grown in many different states and 
climates, while in gardens close together they may succeed in one 
garden and fail in another. We do not know how much of this is 
due to soil conditions and how much may be due to weakening of 
plants by insects or plant diseases, but for the section of country 
from Maine to Virginia and west to the Mississippi Valley, it is in 
general better to grow these Irises from seed, if the gardener is not 
sure as to what conditions they need. The seedlings seem to be 
rather more vigorous. Seed taken from a good collection will give 
good colors, although, of course, it is impossible to tell what the 
distribution of the colors will be. 

Distinct from the beardless group, but for convenience treated 


IRIS 


145 


with them, is the small-crested Iris group con¬ 
sisting of one American species, cristata, and 
two Japanese species, tectorum and gracilipes. 
The group gets its name from the golden 
crest down the center line of the lower petal. 
All the plants are small and suited best to 
half-shaded rock gardens. Cristata is but a 
few inches high, blooming in April or early 
May, delightfully fragrant and of great value to gardens, and 
yet but seldom seen. Any good garden soil with humus in it 
should suit it, and half shade is welcomed by it; the members of 
this group are the only important Irises which do not demand 
full sun. 

Iris tectorum is slightly larger, standing perhaps a foot in height, 
and is easily grown from seed. Its white form is particularly desir¬ 
able. It needs replanting oftener than most Irises and when it 
becomes crowded is apt to die out. I believe it can best be handled 
by saving seed yearly and keeping some young plants coming 
along. Iris gracilipes is the scarcest and perhaps the loveliest of the 
three, a tiny flower held in eight- or ten-inch stems, a gem for any 
rock garden. 

The bulbous Iris group is another great group. Its headquarters 
are around the Mediterranean or in Asia Minor, a small area in 
contrast to the area covered by Beardless Iris. Bulbous Iris should 
be planted in the Fall, just as Tulips are, and north of Richmond 
on our east coast they are not very reliable garden plants. They 
bloom well for a year or two and then are apt to dwindle away 
and disappear. In milder climates they increase rapidly and are of 
great value. This is particularly true in parts of Virginia, and the 
Carolinas, and on the Pacific Coast. The most readily available of 
the bulbous types are the varieties of the Spanish Iris group. These 
are hybrids of Iris Xiphium. If they do not live very many years, 
they are not too expensive to repurchase. 

The English Irises are later blooming and probably more finicky 
as to position. They do not seem to succeed in as many sections 
as Spanish Irises do. The flowers are larger and the color range 



Crested 

Iris 


Bulbous 

Iris 


Spanish 

Iris 


English 

Iris 


146 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 



The Iris 
Library 


rather smaller. An early flowering group of smaller flowers are 
the hybrids of the Dutch Iris group which are the common Irises 
used by the florists for winter forcing. 

There are a good many other bulbous Irises of different types. 
Space does not permit me to mention many, but for those who 
have sheltered positions it might be well to try a few bulbs of 
Iris reticulata, because it blooms so early in the Spring, is such a 
beautiful flower, and is so wonderfully fragrant. Even as far north 
as Massachusetts, it often blooms before the first of April, being 
the first of all Irises to appear in open gardens. 

These are but a few of many types of Iris which might well 
be tried in various parts of the Southwest. I want to emphasize 
that, not being a native, I have no right and no desire to say which 
will or which will not succeed. I hope my article will make some 
gardeners wish to try a few of the various types, and I hope those 
who try them will make their experiments known through the 
various garden clubs and through the State or National Iris Society, 
so that the information can be passed along to other gardeners. I 
should like to call to the attention of garden groups the fact that 
the American Iris Society has recently established as a memorial 
to the great Iris pioneer, Mr. Bertram H. Farr, the Farr Me¬ 
morial Traveling Iris Library. Our members have collected and 
endowed this library and it is available for Horticultural Societies 
and Garden Clubs for the period of one month without any 
charge, except actual express charges for the shipping. Organiza¬ 
tions in the Southwest may apply to the Missouri Botanical Garden, 
St. Louis, Missouri, which is custodian of this library for the 
middle section of the country. 

Iris-growing is still in its pioneer stage everywhere in America. 
It is evident that there are no states in the Union where some 
types will not succeed admirably but many years of careful 
experimentation is needed before we know how many different 
kinds will succeed in each different climatic section of the country. 


John C. Wister, 

President of the American Iris Society . 


























































































































































































oA \ose (garden 

for the Southwest 

I N planning a Rose garden, consideration was given to the limited space 
at the disposal of the average Rose-lover. The plan worked out in the 
accompanying sketch calls for only an average back yard, accommodating 
itself to a plot fifty feet wide and sixty feet long. But in it are included, 
with ample room for each, some four hundred and fifteen Rose plants, 
representing most of the types in commerce today in seventy-eight excel¬ 
lent varieties. 

Directly opposite the gateway at the farther end of the garden is a 
long arbor or summer-house covered with climbing Roses and edged with 
Polyanthas. The remaining space in this garden is divided into four equal 
sections by two main intersecting walks. The main path from the gateway 
to the arbor is planted at ten-foot intervals with climbing Roses trained 
over arches and is bordered with Polyanthas. At either end of the intersect¬ 
ing main path is a seat and at intervals throughout the plan are placed 
accents in the form of tall cypress trees and small evergreens. Both main 
walks are of grass and meet in a large circular plot, in the center of which 
is a sundial. 

The four main sections of the garden contain each three beds of bush 
Roses, one long outside bed for the taller growing varieties and two smaller 
ones for the lower growing sorts. The long beds are eighteen feet long and 
four feet wide and contain twenty-four bushes in two rows of twelve 
bushes each, planted eighteen inches apart one way and two feet the other. 
The two small beds in each section are eight feet long and three and one- 
half feet wide and contain twelve bushes in two rows of six each, planted 
sixteen inches apart. 

The general color arrangement for the garden places the strong shades, 
such as reds, in the foreground and the lighter pinks, yellows and whites 
in the background. This lends an impression of greater distance to the 
perspective. The color arrangement for the beds groups Roses of the same 
or blending shades of one color in a bed; the four beds bordering on the 
central circular plot having shades of flame and orange Roses in those 

147 


148 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


bushes closest to the showy brilliance of the orange Polyanthas, Golden 
Salmon and Gloria Mundi . 

For the full length of two sides of the garden there is a six-foot border 
planted in shrub Roses, Polyanthas and the single varieties with a back¬ 
ground of latticed fence supporting Climbers. This fence may extend across 
the back line of the garden also if the arbor is on the edge of the property. 

Across the front of the garden are tall posts connected by chains or 
rope-swags, over which the Climbing Roses planted at the posts are trained. 
At the base of these festoons there is a low border of Polyanthas, the whole 
of this front treatment being designed to give an unobstructed view of 
the garden. 

The shrub border may be omitted where there is less space or may be 
planted out in perennials and shrubs other than Rose, but its exclusion 
would mean a loss of many lovely varieties. 

The summer-house also might be omitted, but it would be a pity, for 
it is with a probable sigh of relief from all concerned that after such a 
pilgrimage through countless Roses we should come at last to a place of 
rest. The French call such an arbor a "Gloriette” and what name could be 
more fitting when it is canopied with Roses. 

A Rose garden is not just a place to look at, but a place to live in. 
And roofed against the uninterrupted sunlight that the Rose so loves, this 
summer-house offers a needed spot to sit in peace and shade and enjoy the 
fruit of one’s labors. 

We may say "sit in peace”, but what Rose-lover ever really views with 
a peaceful eye the landscape of his making? Given the slightest excuse 

"To grasp this sorry Scheme of Things 
entire 

Would not we shatter it to bits — 
and then 

Remould it nearer to the Heart’s Desire?” 



List of Roses in Garden Sketch 

The list of Rose varieties contained in the accompanying garden sketch 
is by no means to be considered as including all the varieties that should, 
or might, be grown in the Southwest. It is designed for the sole purpose 
of offering some slight help to the amateur who, in the maze of vast and 
varied material the modern Rose world presents, may feel lost without a 
chart of some tried and true Rose friends he may count on to see him 
safely through. 


‘Ttyses in the Southwest 



hat a host of lovely images the word Rose recalls! 
fejSuch happy associations and charming memories 
should make rose-growing the most delightful of 
occupations. But if it is to be so, in this modern 
multiplicity, we must pick and choose our methods and our bushes 
with as much care and experienced judgment as we usually bestow 
on the selection of our friends, for a Rose can be like a friend 
with whom, if wisely chosen and cultivated, association through 
the years will yield an increasing pleasure. 


TYPES OF ROSES 

Roses are among the most diversified of plants in type. The 
main divisions are Shrubs, Climbers, Polyanthas and Bush or Bed¬ 
ding Roses. Each has its particular uses and adaptations. 

SHRUB ROSES 

The Shrubs are made up largely of Rugosas; Specie or wild 
types; old-fashioned kinds like the Moss, Cabbage, Bengal, China 
and Gallica Roses; dwarf and ever-blooming Climbers; Briers and 
the hybrids of all of them. These all make good specimen plants, 
sometimes may be used as hedges, but are not suitable for beds 
or for planting in a small garden. 

RUGOSAS 

The first of the shrub class, the Rugosas, are adapted for culti¬ 
vation only in the eastern or northern part of the Southwest. They 
are ruggedly hardy, thorny plants that can stand any amount of 
cold, but will not bloom well in prolonged heat. The flowers are 


Types of 

Shrub 

Roses 


Chief 
Character - 
istics 


149 


150 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


coarse at best, and often wither and turn yellow without open¬ 
ing, and the hybrids show a strong tendency to mildew. Of those 
grown here are the red and pink F. J. Grootendorst, Conrad Fer¬ 
dinand Meyer, Rugosa Rubra, Rosea Parfum de PHay and Amelie 
GravereauXy the latter two having the unpleasant characteristic 
common to the class, of turning from red to a sickly purple. 


Types of 

Specie 

Roses 


The Specie, or wild types, furnish some of the loveliest of the 
Spring-blooming shrubs. Hugonis, the wild rose of China, 
Jhtp with its sweetly-scented, golden-yellow flowers in April, is 
‘ a great favorite, by far the most beautiful of the Spring- 
/ //£ flowering shrubs, needing plenty of room, at least six feet 
square. Moyesi, very similar except in color, is a blood-red 
gem, if it can become safely established. The Cherokee Roses, 
or Rosa Laevigata, have been naturalized in South Texas and 
make bewilderingly beautiful, fountain-like shrubs, with 
white, pink or red blossoms. But their large size and dreaded 
propensity to "sucker" make them rather difficult to handle 
in an average garden. They are better left to naturalistic 
treatment on a large scale, where their effect is tremendous. 


OLD-FASHIONED TYPES 

Except for sentimental reasons, very few of the old-fash¬ 
ioned types (such as the Moss, Gallica and Cabbage Roses) 
seem to be grown in the Southwest, the only one of which 
there is much mention being Blanche Moreau, an old white 
Moss. But almost every garden has a plant or two of that 
fragrant, dark crimson Bengal, Gruss an Teplitz. 

One of the China Roses still grown in the Southwest is 
Hermosa, with its lavender-pink clusters of small flowers on 
a bushy ever-blooming plant. But with so many Polyanthas 
so similar and with much more attractive coloring, it will not 
likely survive another generation, except in educational col¬ 
lections. 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


151 


DWARF OR SEMI-CLIMBERS 

The dwarf or semi-climbing Roses which make good shrubs are 
mainly of three classes: the Lambertina Roses or multiflora hy¬ 
brids; the Pemberton Roses, moschata or musk hybrids and Cap¬ 
tain Thomas’ Roses. 

The Lambertina Roses are not reported upon in the Southwest, 
but are suggested as possibly good subjects for trial. 

The Pemberton Roses, or hybrids musks, have been grown with 
very good results. The varieties tried are Penelope, soft saffron; 
Prosperity, white; Cornelia, strawberry; and Vanity, rose-colored. 
They seem immune to mildew and leaf diseases, are practically 
ever-blooming, and certainly deserve a much wider distribution. 

Captain Thomas’ ever-blooming dwarf climbers may be recog¬ 
nized by the prefix, Bloomfield, to their names. They have caused 
considerable interest in the Southwest, not only from the viewpoint 
of possibly desirable shrubs, but as good subjects for pillar treat¬ 
ment, to replace the rambler group which has caused more trouble 
in the garden by spreading mildew than any other one class. Cap¬ 
tain Thomas’ Roses are all heartily recommended for trial, as they 
seem immune to mildew and leaf diseases, and, when established, 
bloom more than once. Two are sufficiently vigorous to handle as 
ramblers, Bloomfield Perfection, creamy flesh, and Bloomfield 
Courage, dark red. 


BRIERS 

The Brier Roses, most of which bloom but once, have at least 
one native representative in the Southwest, a low, very thorny 
bush with small, golden yellow blossoms. The flower resembles 
somewhat that of Hugonis, but the latter makes a much larger and 
infinitely more attractive plant, which comment applies to prac¬ 
tically all of the Brier group except the Austrian, which has fur¬ 
nished Austrian Copper, Le Reve, and Star of Persia . 

Austrian Copper, one of the most outstanding shrubs offered 
in commerce today, has small single flowers, coppery-red on the 
inside and bright yellow on the outside. The foliage is very beauti¬ 
ful, but the startling color of the blossoms makes the plant a 


Three 

Classes 


Lambertina 


Pemberton 


Captain 
Thomas* 
Varieties 


Briers 
in the 
Southwest 


Austrian 

Copper 


152 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 



Pruning 


Planting 


Fertilization 


Climbing 
Rose Types 


Character¬ 
istics of 
Climbers 


little difficulty to place in a garden except 
with an evergreen background. 

Le Reve and Star of Persia are usually 
listed as Hardy Climbers, but are really 
■ tall, stiff shrubs, needing some support. 
They are immune to mildew, but are a 
prey to the most devastating black-spot 
and possess a distinctly disagreeable odor. To offset these disadvan¬ 
tages, the beauty of their large, pure yellow blossoms is most com¬ 
pelling to those who are addicted to yellow Roses. 

Harrison’s Yellow, another member of this class, whose name 
appears so often in Northern annals, is practically unknown in the 
Southwest. 

The great majority of us, when we say "Roses”, do not think of 
them as shrubs, but a vast number of Rose plants can be used as 
shrubs in our gardens whether they are Rose gardens or not. A 
few points to bear in mind concerning Rose shrubs are: first, learn 
the probable height and habit of growth of each in order to place 
it to advantage; second, it is better not to prune at all than too 
much. Be content with cutting out dead or very old 
wood at the base of the plant; third, plant them in good 
soil, but do not pile fertilizer around them. They usually 
prefer a little bonemeal and an occasional dressing of 
wood-ashes to anything else in the way of nourishment. 

CLIMBING ROSES 

The correct classification of climbing Roses is 
one of the most difficult things the amateur Rose- 
grower encounters. Only by classifying them 
properly can he learn to care for them, because 
each class demands a different treatment for best 
results. There are four main types of so-called 
climbing Roses— Climbers, Ramblers, Pillars and 
Ground-covers . 

CLIMBERS 

The Climbers are the Roses which 
grow taller each year, new shoots _ 







ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


153 



springing from the ends of 
the old canes. They should 
be pruned very little, as 
they bloom best on mature 
wood. All that is necessary 
is to cut out dead, diseased 
or very old wood, and shorten 
branches which are too long for 
the space allotted to them. True Climbers 
should be grown on a tall fence, a per¬ 
gola, over an archway or against the wall of a 
house, any place where there is sufficient height 
and width for them to spread out. They should 
never be planted as a pillar, since the canes are 
too long, too abundant, and usually too stiff 
and heavy to twist or twine. 

The Climbers are themselves subdivided into Hardy 
and Tender Climbers. 


HARDY CLIMBERS 

The Hardy Climbers are those which are able to endure zero 
weather without protection. They generally bloom only in the 
Spring, but for a long period. The profusion of their flowers, iiardy 
together with their hardiness, make them very desirable for the Climbers 
Southwest as well as for the North (since zero and below is not 
unknown here). Some of the most widely-grown Hardy Climbers 
are American Pillar, Bess Lovett, Mary Lovett, Gardenia, Emily 
Gray, Silver Moon, Albertine and Dr. Van Fleet. Some newer ones 
which are recommended for wider trial are Breeze Hill, Mme. 

Gregoire Staechelin, the new pink Gold Medal Rose, and the New 
Dawn or Ever blooming Dr. Van Fleet. The latter is identical in 
flower with the old Dr. Van Fleet and is said to be ever-blooming, 
which will make it most welcome. M me. Gregoire's chief draw¬ 
back seems to be a tendency to mildew and black-spot, but it is 
hoped it may outgrow it, as its fresh, pink loveliness and long 
period of bloom must endear it to any Rose lover. 


154 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Tender 

Climbers 

Identified 


Polyantba 

Climbers 


Hybrid- 

Tea 


TENDER CLIMBERS 

The Tender Climbers compose a large class which will not 
endure zero weather without protection and are best left for South¬ 
ern planting. They are made up of Noisettes, Teas, Bourbons and 
such types peculiar to Southern climates. Most of the Hybrid-Teas 
and Polyanthas which have developed climbing tendencies belong 
to this group also, although some are not of sufficient vigor to 
climb very high and should be treated as pillars or large shrubs. 

Until the disastrous winter of 1929-1930 with its subzero tem¬ 
perature, many of the Tender Climbers grown in California and 
the true South, such as the Gold of Ophir, William Allen Richard¬ 
son, Bouquet d’Or, the Banksia Roses, white and yellow, M arechal 
Neil, and even the newer Belle of Portugal were thriving in gar¬ 
dens throughout the Southwest. But that winter took its toll, and 
it has been noted with sadness since that many of these Roses have 
disappeared from the lists of our local growers. 

Hybrid-Tea and Polyantha Climbers are relatively hardier than 
the strictly Tender Climbers, since they are seldom killed out¬ 
right by extreme cold. But if their canes are badly nipped back, a 
whole season or two of bloom is lost, according to the severity of 
the cold, since they flower on mature wood. 

There is another disadvantage to the climbing forms of the 
ranker-growing Hybrid-Teas. In the northern part of the South¬ 
west, Spring is almost always a false season. Warm days come early 
and the Tender Climbers put out confidently. Climbing forms are 
usually several weeks ahead of the bushes of the same variety, 
and often a sudden freeze, or a killing frost, destroys the blossoms. 
Only once in about five years does a strong-growing Climbing 
Tea or Hybrid-Tea reach perfection. That one time ought to be 
considered worth waiting for, as the vision of a climbing Columbia, 
thirty feet in extent, with several hundred perfect Roses all open 
at one time, will surely testify. 

There is another class of Climbing Hybrid-Teas in the South¬ 
west that has no dwarf, bush-form, examples of which are Sou¬ 
venir de Wooten and Rene Marie Henriette. The latter, except in 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


155 


the most favorable season, discolors, mildews and balls in most of 
this section, but is still planted because it gives another scattering 
bloom in the Fall. 


RAMBLERS 

Ramblers are those Climbers characterized by long, pliant canes, 
renewing themselves from the ground each year, and covered 
with sprays or clusters of small flowers. They are the worst snare 
awaiting the amateur Rose-grower. Although they are deceptively 
beautiful and healthy-looking at times, even with the most open 
treatment, in the full sunlight, hardly one will prove immune to 
mildew in most sections of the Southwest. A bonfire of Dorothy 
Perkins, White Dorothy, Excelsa, Coronation, Hiawatha, La 
Fiamma and the countless others of similar type, might light the 
way to some really healthy and satisfactory successors, since a gar¬ 
den needs their type (with a new constitution) properly to clothe 
its post and pillars, for the Rambler is the only type of Climber 
which can be used to really good advantage twined around a post 
or in festoons along a rope. 

If you must have Ramblers, the best way to handle them is to 
plant them in the open where they will have free circulation of 
air. Cut out at the ground all the previous season’s growth each 
year immediately after they have finished blooming. Spray as 
often as you have the strength, with any good fungicide or sul¬ 
phur mixture. The results are apt to be the same, no matter what 
you do. In a dry season there will be very little mildew and in a 
wet one, plenty. 


PILLAR ROSES 

The Pillar Roses are those which, not being of such tall, strong 
growth as the true Climbers, may be trained on a high post, or 
like a fan on a fence or trellis. This latter treatment is the more 
desirable as the canes are usually, when mature, too stiff to bend 
without breaking. This pillar group embraces the most desirable 
of all the climbing Roses since as a class they are healthier than the 
Ramblers and more easily handled than the tall Climbers. The 


Ramblers 

Classified 


Suggested 

Locations 


Treatment 
of Pillar 
Roses 


156 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Pruning 


Hardy 

Pillars 


Almost 

Everbloom- 

ing 

Climbers 


only pruning they require is to take out all wood more than three 
years old, and cut back the blooming lateral stems to within two 
eyes or leaf buds of the main canes. 

The Pillars may be divided into the Hardy sorts, and the ever- 
blooming or half-tender varieties. 

Of the Hardy Pillars, Pattis Scarlet tops the list as the most out¬ 
standingly beautiful and generally satisfactory climbing Rose in 
existence. Its color is vivid and unfading, its fragrance delicious, 
and its length of flowering, and multitude of blossoms most gen¬ 
erous. Beginning in early April it often continues through the 
first week of June, its huge lasting clusters of shining red coming 
in a long succession of unbroken bloom. 

Next to Pauls Scarlet perhaps the loveliest of the Hardy Pillars 
is Jacotte , with orange-pink, semi-double profuse flowers and 
holly-like foliage. It should always be planted against a fence or 
trellis where its strong horizontal, lateral canes will not interfere 
with passage, and should never be placed at a gateway or on a 
post, as its canes will usually break if you attempt to bend them 
too soon. 

Primrose is a lovely new pillar which likes a sunny location 
where it will grow to some fifteen feet and bear, over a long sea¬ 
son, large clusters of pure yellow, very double flowers. 

Tausendschon, or Thousand Beauties and its darker twin, 
Roserie , are billowy masses of dainty blossoms and M ary Wallace 
is a pink dream. The new Chaplins Pink Climber should be beau¬ 
tiful and satisfactory, being a cross between Pauls Scarlet and 
American Pillar . Climbing American Beauty fades so badly that 
it cannot be enthusiastically recommended, but it is a lovely thing 
for a few days. Pauls Lemon Pillar , pale cream, and Dr. Huey , 
dark red, are a little too inclined to mildew to make them wel¬ 
come guests, but both make magnificent specimen shrubs when cut 
off at about eight feet and allowed to grow without support on the 
lawn. 

All the Hardy Pillars above mentioned bloom abundantly, al¬ 
though only once, except Mary Wallace which sometimes has a few 
scattered blossoms in the Fall. But there is a class of Half-Tender 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


157 


Pillars which are recurrent. Perhaps no question is more often 
asked than, "Do you know any good everblooming climbing 
Roses?” While not quite everblooming, there is a class of Half- 
Tender Pillar Roses which bloom more than once. Many of them 
come from Australia, such as Black Boy, Scorcher, Miss Marian 
Manifold and Kitty Kinnimoth. All are most desirable and are 
gaining steadily in popularity. 

Then there is the long list of the less rank-growing Hybrid-Tea 
Climbers, increasing every year as the new varieties throw climb¬ 
ing sports. They are much easier to handle than their taller sisters. 
Columbia, Sunburst and Ophelia do well spread out fanwise 
against a fence or trellis. They develop blooming branches from 
those "eyes” or "buds” exposed to the sun, and should have their 
canes trained as nearly horizontal as possible instead of straight 
up. The only pruning they require is to cut off flower stems and 
any diseased or very old wood. Some of the best are Climbing 
Herriot, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Souvenir de Claudius Denoyel, Lady 
Ashtown (the hardiest and best pink), Rose Marie, Los Angeles, 
Hoosier Beauty, Killarney, Irish Fireflame, Clara Bow, Kaiserin 
Auguste Vikoria, Gen. McArthur and Hadley, and two Climbing 
Teas, Lady Hillingdon and Papa Gontier. 

To this group may be added also the climbing forms of two 
Polyanthas, Auguste Kordes, or Climbing Lafayette, and Climbing 
Cecile Brunner. They are mildew proof, a most singular advantage 
in a climbing Rose. Cecile Brunner is densely clothed with almost 
evergreen foliage and makes a good-looking vine. Auguste Kordes 
is most highly recommended for training on a pillar and for fes¬ 
toons. Its early bloom is abundant and after being established, it 
repeats in the Fall. Its only fault is a none-too-fast color, the bright 
cherry red turning to pink. 

To conclude the everblooming Pillars with a description of a 
certain Hybrid Bracteata is like leaving the best for the last. It 
must have been too enchanting to its originator to be burdened 
with a harsh human soubriquet like some of its unfortunate sis¬ 
ters. Looking at its immaculate white or pale yellow loveliness, he 
gave it one of the most charming names in the Rose world, Mer- 


Pruntng 


158 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Ground 

Covers 


Prune 

Character¬ 

istics 

Planting 

Selection 


maid. The flowers are borne in clusters at the tips of long branches, 
on a half-climbing, shrub-like plant with beautiful, waxy foliage, 
immune to disease. It should never be pruned or trained up, but 
allowed to grow as a large shrub in a sunny, sheltered spot where it 
will produce its exquisite, fleeting blossoms continuously from 
early Spring till Fall. 

GROUND COVERS 

Ground covers are those Roses which are suited to trail along 
the ground or over embankments. They are very artistic and at¬ 
tractive looking in a naturalistic garden. Jacotte, while classed as 
a Pillar Rose, may be so used. But the type is most often repre¬ 
sented by Max Graf , Mrs. M. H. Walsh and Wichuraiana. The 
last has practically evergreen, shining foliage and single white 
flowers. 

Some points to remember about Climbing Roses, taken as a 
whole, are: 

Prune, immediately after they bloom in the Spring, and fertil¬ 
ize heavily to induce strong, new growth from which will come 
next year’s blossoms. 

Learn the color, season of bloom, probable size and habit of 
growth of the plant, before planting , so as to locate properly. 
Climbers do not take kindly to being carted about. Be more than 
generous in the width and depth of the hole and the amount of 
fertilizer used when planting, remembering you will seldom be 
given a second chance to correct any initial deficiency. 

Of the Tender Climbers, choose the yellow Banksia, the pink 
2 epbrine Drouhin and perhaps M arechal Neil. 

Of the Hardy Climbers, the New Datvn, Albertine, Silver Moon , 
Bess Lovett , Mme. Gregoire Staechelin and Emily Gray are not 
likely to disappoint you. 

On the Ramblers, don’t indulge, but try the Pillar Roses Bloom¬ 
field Courage and Bloomfield Perfection , Auguste Kordes and the 
Hybrid Musk, Vanity. 

Among the Climbing Teas and Hybrid Teas, buy all you can 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


159 


afford or accommodate, but remember the added care and atten¬ 
tion they demand. 

Of the Hardy Pillars, never rest until you acquire a Pauls Scarlet 
or two, a Roserie or a Thousand Beauties, a Mary Wallace, a Prim - 
rose and a Mermaid . 


POLYANTHA ROSES 

Polyanthas are hardy, everblooming, shrubby, little plants, 
flowering in immense clusters and suitable for massing in beds, 
low hedges, or borders. They are the Roses for the gardener who 
wants to spend the minimum of time and energy on his bushes 
and reap the maximum results. When once established they in¬ 
crease in strength and beauty from year to year but always retain 
their original neat habit of growth. They require little pruning 
except to remove very old, dead or diseased wood; and, if wisely 
chosen, planted in the sun, and not exposed to unhealthy plant 
neighbors, they will make you neither dust nor spray to any 
extent. All they will require is to have the old blooms cut off, and 
a little feeding now and then to keep them energetic. 

The Polyanthas vary considerably in height, size, and type of 
flower, and coloring so that it is a good plan to see a plant before 
ordering in large numbers for any special purpose. The invaluable 
Salmon Spray, La Marne and Alice Amos have fairly large flowers 
and grow as high as four feet. They should be used as hedges, 
massed in beds, or in front of evergreens, and as a border for 
taller-growing shrubs. 

The large-flowered and very lasting Kir¬ 
sten Poulsen and Else Poulsen are almost as 
tall (from two to three feet), and are suit¬ 
able for the same kind of planting. These 
two varieties, together with the low-grow¬ 
ing red and pink Lafayettes are somewhat in¬ 
clined to black-spot, but immune to mildew. 

For beds or edging, or for a gay 
border anywhere, there are seven 
Polyanthas which should be in every 


Habits and 
Pruning of 
Polyanthas 


Suggested 

Uses 


Hedges 




160 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Borders 


Miniature 

Double 

Roses 


Classes 


garden. They are Ideal, dark red; Miss Edith Cavell, brilliant scar¬ 
let; Orleans, bright geranium red; Chatillion, vivid pink; Coral 
Cluster, lighter pink; Golden Salmon, glowing orange and the 
new Gloria Mundia, a deeper shade of orange with more double 
flowers. These varieties, which are practically immune to mildew, 
are indescribably beautiful in coloring, and create a stunning effect 
if planted in large masses in beds of one variety. In fact, no rose 
garden, formal or otherwise, can afford to be without them. 

There is another type of Polyanthas which has been grown very 
widely in the Southwest represented by the Cecile Brunner or 
Sweetheart Rose, Eerie d’Or, Tip Top and George Eiger . Their 
flowers, which come both singly and in clusters, are really minia¬ 
ture double Roses, very attractive when cut in the bud for bou¬ 
quets. But the plants for garden decoration are valueless, as the 
blossoms open too rapidly with their petals flared back in an ugly 
way. A variety grown very largely in this section is Mme. Nor - 
bert Levavasseur, which has the bad habit of fading into an ugly 
lavender, and mildewing. 

Another favorite, Gruss an Aachen, which is said to be really a 
Bengal Bourbon and not a Polyantha, has rather large flowers for 
the class, of an exquisite color when conditions are favorable. 

BUSH OR BEDDING ROSES 

The Bush or Bedding type is the one we usually associate with 
the word ‘'Rose”. This class may be divided into Hybrid Per¬ 
petual, Tea, Hybrid Tea, Pernetiana, and Single Roses. 


HYBRID PERPETUALS 

Hybrid Perpetuals are the strong, tall-growing, winter-hardy, 



ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


161 


in France where they are still very popular and have a wider range 
in variety than in the United States. Germany, too, is fond of them, 
and great advances are being made both abroad and here at home 
in their hybridization. 

Some of the favorite Hybrid Perpetuals are Paul Neyron, Gen¬ 
eral Jacqueminot, XJlricb Brunner, George Amends, Frau Karl 
Druschi and the fast disappearing American Beauty; while of the 
newer kinds being grown here, there are John Russell, a fine red of 
perfect form, and Mme. Albert Barbier, light salmon-flesh and 
apricot. 

Since the Hybrid Perpetuals, however hardy and beautiful, 
bloom only in the Spring, a very few of their kind should be 
included in a small Rose garden. Hybrid Perpetuals grow tall un¬ 
less they are kept sharply pruned. 

In pruning them, all wood more than two years old should be 
taken out at the base of the plant and the remaining canes short¬ 
ened according to the results you want to achieve. The taller they 
are left, the more flowers, and the shorter they are cut, the finer the 
blooms on longer stems. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals make fine tall Pillars or shrubs, especially 
Frau Karl Druschi, which should be in every garden, as it fur¬ 
nishes all the white Roses anyone could wish. 


Hybrid 
Perpetuals 
Bush Roses 


Pruning 


Suggested 

Uses 


SINGLE ROSES 

The single Roses are a decorative group which are being given 
an increasing amount of attention by the amateur grower. They 
usually have only five petals and their color is apt to fade rapidly. 
But cut as buds for the house, they possess an artistic grace that 
will charm the most unenthusiastic observer. 

The Single Roses come in a variety of colors. There is the red 
Vesuvius, the pink Dainty Bess, the yellow Cecil and the white 
Innocence . The Irish group, such as Irish Fireflame, Irish 
Elegans, Irish Beauty and Irish Glory, are lovely things. 

But the finest of all this type is Isobel . 

Give it plenty of room and it will re¬ 
ward you with a multitude of long, 


Attention 
Called to 
Single 
Roses 



162 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Tea Roses 
Identified 


Suggested 

Varieties 


Height 


Pruning 


Chief 

Character¬ 

istics 


Origin 


carmine-orange buds which fade with age to a pretty pink. 

The Teas are an old race of bushy, everblooming Roses, mostly 
in yellow tones with disease-resistant foliage, which is little 
troubled by mildew or black-spot. They are not winter-hardy in 
the North, but are seldom killed by the cold weather in most 
sections of the Southwest. Their chief faults are a restricted range 
of color, and an inclination to "ball”, a term which, when applied 
to Roses (mostly the soft, heavy ones) means that they do not 
open properly. This is due generally to weather conditions, but is 
one of the most exasperating traits that a Rose may possess, for no 
one likes to have a whole crop of blooms "go bad”, and most of 
the Teas bloom in crops. 

One Tea which never balls is Lady Hillington . It is widely 
planted in this section and ranks as the most popular yellow rose. 
An often weak "neck” (a characteristic of the Teas) and a tend¬ 
ency to fade badly in the heat, constitute its major faults, but it 
is one of three Teas that should be in all Rose gardens, the other 
two being the cream-colored William R. Smith and the deep pink 
Lap a Gontier. Other Tea Roses grown in numbers in the Southwest 
are the two Cochets, white and pink, Dudley Cross , Helen Gould , 
Harry Kirk and Mrs. B. R. Cant. 

The Teas are generally of but average height. They require only 
light pruning, as their chief value to a garden lies more in the 
number than in the size of their blossoms. They improve wonder¬ 
fully when given frequent cultivation and heavy feeding. 

The Teas are almost as little adapted to the Southwest as the 
Rugosas and should be left as largely to the true South as the 
Rugosas to the true North. Their strong tea-fragrance and lovely 
foliage cannot make up for the fact that only a few of their 
multitudinous flowers are worth gathering, except in those seasons 
most favorable to their proper development. 

HYBRID TEAS 

The Hybrid-Tea originated as a cross between a Hybrid-Per¬ 
petual and a Tea. It inherited most of the hardiness of the former 
and the everblooming tendency of the latter. Though Hybrid-Teas 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


163 


are of comparatively recent origin, La France being the oldest one 
in existence, their popularity is so widespread that they have dis¬ 
placed most of their original progenitors in the modern Rose- 
garden. 

The work of hybridization continues unabated, such crossing 
and recrossing having been accomplished that it is small wonder 
that in the resultant race there is apparent a decline in hardiness. 

No one Rose can be perfect from every point of view, but the 
following Hybrid-Teas have each their good points which make 
them desirable in any Rose collection. Heading the list of Hybrid- 
Teas is the Radiance group, Fink Radiance, shell-pink Radiance 
(Mrs. Charles Bell) and Red Radiance. And the greatest of these 
is Red Radiance! They are the backbone of any successful Rose- 
garden in this section, with their bright-colored dependable blos¬ 
soms. 

Perhaps next to Red Radiance there is no red Rose that blooms 
more abundantly in the Southwest than the Charles K. Douglas. 
It seems happier in our climate than the lovely Etoile de Hollande 
which every Rose-lover must have. Then there are Sir David Davis, 
Irish Hope, Crusader, Sensation and, best of all, the new E. G. Hill, 
to give that opulent richness to our gardens that only red Roses 
can bestow. Still more good reds of decorative value are Red Let¬ 
ter Day, K. of K., Haivlmark Crimson and Hortulanus Budde. 
Indeed, the numbers of really fine red Roses and the scarcity of 
any pinks one would care to plant in dozens, make one wonder 
sometimes where the odd theory originated that there are so few 
good reds. 

The pink Hybrid-Tea Roses that flourish in this section fall 
easily into kinds that are good for Spring bloom, like Mrs. Henry 
Bowles and Mrs. Henry Morse; those that are good for Summer 
bloom, like the old President Taft and Mary Countess of Ilches- 
ter; those that are good for all season bloom, like Pink Radiance 
and Betty Uprichard; and those that are good for nothing. Some 
other pink Hybrid-Teas that are good, each in its way, are Miss 
Rowena Thom, Lady Alice Stanley, Imperial Potentate, Frank 
Dunlop, Premier, Briarcliff and the dainty Lulu, whose long and 


Suggested 

Collection 


Red 


Pink 


164 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Yellow 


White 


Pruning 


Beware of 
"Forcing” 


shapely Nasturtium-colored buds so captivate the public at flower 
shows. 

The yellow Hybrid-Teas are well represented by such splendid 
acquisitions as Mrs . Pierre S. DuPont , Joanna Hill and the Aus¬ 
tralian Golden Dawn . But yellow in Roses seems to belong more 
exclusively to another race, the Pernetianas. 

In the white Hybrid-Teas the old Kaiserina Augusta Victoria 
and White Killarny are still planted, together with the newer 
Abol, Edel and Nuntius Pacelli . Portadown Ivory is a lovely 
thing, but white Roses hold less interest for the average Rose-lover 
than the gayer-colored varieties. 

CLIMATIC CHARACTERISTICS 

The Southwest is the half-way meeting ground for the East and 
the far West in more ways than one. It is influenced by both 
and yet totally unlike either. It has the long growing-season and 
tropical summer of California, but its winters can remind one 
more often of New England. This makes all rules of either section 
not safe to apply here culturally. But the Southwest has a greater 
leaning toward California than it has toward Pennsylvania, when 
it comes to a matter of plant-growth. Our Rose-plants will more 
closely resemble those of California in size than those of the North. 

When we consider this it must have its direct bearing on the 
pruning of our Hybrid-Teas. Nature demands a balance. This 
greater top-growth which we may expect in the Southwest has its 
correspondingly greater root-growth and by unduly limiting the 
former, we necessarily in time will limit the latter. 

When you are told that you can prune, either to have a fine 
bush or fine flowers, you have heard only half of it. The end of 
that sentence is—if you don’t have a fine bush you won’t have 
any flowers very long. The extremely-low pruning theory comes 
to us from the florists who prune their bushes sharply and feed 
heavily to produce fine blooms. But they usually neglect to say 
what they do with those bushes at the end of one year, two years, 
or at the most, three years. They throw them out. This whole proc¬ 
ess is known as "forcing” and the result is an exhausted bush 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


165 


at the age when it should, in your gardens, be at the height of its 
glory. 

When pruning your Hybrid-Teas, first of all, be sure your prun¬ 
ing shears are sharp. A great deal of harm can be done by hacking 
a Rose with dull shears. The next step is to walk around your bush 
and take a good look at it before you decide what particular type 
its cut should be. A "boyish” or "wind-blown” effect is not always 
becoming to a large and well-developed Red Radiance , which 
leads us to suggest a rule of "proportion” in our pruning of all but 
newly set-out bushes, which latter should be cut back to within 
six inches of the ground. 

The best proportion to use on well-established plants is one- 
half. That is, cut back one-half the new strong growth of a 
bush Rose, leaving a four-foot plant two feet high and a three- 
foot plant eighteen inches. All the old, diseased or weak wood 
should be cut away entirely. Try to create a well-balanced and 
symmetrical appearance. 

And finally, remember, if you want Hybrid Teas in your gar¬ 
den that will "say it with flowers”, the Radiance sisters all talk out 

loud. 


Adapt 
Contour to 
Root System 


Proportion 



PERNETIAN AS 

The Pernetianas are the newest of the bush creations for our 
gardens. And they demand to be treated like the spoiled youngest p ernet 
of any large family. Monsieur Pernet might be considered in the Varieties 
light of a modern Pandora, for when he crossed the Austrian Brier 
with a Hybrid-Perpetual and produced the Pernetiana race, he 
loosed upon the Rose world a host of hitherto unimagined evils. 


1 66 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Chief 

Character¬ 

istics 


Suggested 

Collection 


Pruning 


Black-spot, canker, die back and defoliation all appeared as if by 
magic to confound the Rose-grower. 

But, if unknown evils accompanied the advent of the Perneti- 
anas, it was marked by a great glory as well, for they possessed a 
beauty of color and a grace of form undreamed of, until then. 
The Austrian Brier strain infuses all of them with that dark 
golden or bright Primrose glow that makes them stand out in any 
garden like shining beacons. 

There is a movement on foot among the commercial growers 
to combine the Hybrid-Teas and Pernetianas under the head of 
Hybrid-Tea. They claim that they have been so cross-bred with 
the Hybrid-Tea that only an arbitrary decision could say to which 
class they belonged. But let the growers by all means make such 
an arbitrary decision, for it ought not to be hard to say, if the 
foliage is faulty, “This is surely a Pernetiana”. And it gives the 
amateur something to go by for he knows then that it will demand 
special consideration. If they call them all Hybrid-Teas, they will 
be in honor bound to tell after the virtues of each variety, its 
faults. And it would seem more to their advantage, after all, to 
put simply “Pernet” than “This variety is subject to black-spot 
and die-back; it is moody at times and in the heat of summer, 
wantonly refuses to remain clothed”. 

Some Pernetianas which every Rose-lover should have are: 

. Talisman, 'President Hoover, Angele Pernet, Ville de Paris, Feu 
Joseph Looymans, Mrs. E. P. Thom and that lovely witch, Los 
Angeles. 

Cuba, Padre, Gwentha Jones, Margaret McGredy and Willomere 
are incredibly lovely. Georges Pernet, an amiable giant of a fellow, 
with a low-spreading bush produces his huge deep-pink blossoms 
in the hottest days of a Southwestern summer as though he relished 
it. 

To sum up Pernetianas, the best way to treat them is to prune 
them lightly and plant them in beds to themselves where you can 
indulge their idiosyncrasies and give them the special treatment 
their beauty deserves without endangering the health of their bet¬ 
ter-behaved cousins. 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


167 


And finally, if you would escape their enchantment, never look 
at one, for once beholding their fleeting beauty, you are lost. They 
weave a spell that will rob you of all reason, for knowing they may 
wreck your whole garden, you will yet plant them and in time 
realize that your feeling for them is the same as the Greeks for 
Alcibiades—you 



168 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


To Cure Is 
Difficult 


Health 

Requisites 


Fungus 

Diseases 


Mildew 


Mildew 
Not in 
Western 
Portion 


Use 

Fungicide 

Sprays 


Sulphur 

Dusts 


Soil 

Resistance 

Builders 

Potash 

Sulphur 


T^ose Diseases 

T he more you work among Roses and try first this remedy and that 
for any trouble, once it has started, the more you are apt to recall, 
"To cure disease is not easy; to prevent it, is much more feasible.” 

The same agencies that operate to keen a human being healthy will 
keep a Rose so too, namely, plenty of fresh air, sunshine, water, a well- 
balanced diet and cleanliness. If you remember this and never try to 
substitute drugs and chemicals for intelligence and systematic care, you 
won’t have much need to call in an expert to save your dying plants. 

MILDEW AND BLACK SPOTS 

The medicinal treatment of mildew and black-spot is the same, for 
both are fungus troubles, though widely different in character. The cause 
of mildew is a disputed question. Some say it comes from the soil and 
others say from atmospheric conditions. Probably both are right. But 
one thing is certain. It is as inherent in some plants as the shape of their 
leaves and the color of their blossoms. It is simply that one environment 
will bring it out and another won’t. So, if you really want to get rid of 
the mildew, get rid of certain Roses that can be counted on to produce 
it with the slightest excuse. 

From the replies to the questionnaire sent out all over the Southwest 
on subjects pertaining to the Rose, we may gather that the western por¬ 
tion is little troubled by mildew, due, they say, to "dry atmospheric 
conditions”, but the rest of this section admits it has it. 

Mildew being a fungus trouble, a fungicide is naturally the thing to 
turn to to correct it. Most fungicides are excellent when used as dormant 
sprays, but discolor foliage too seriously to be much used after a plant has 
put out leaves. There are a few sulphur compounds that are good to use 
then as some do not burn. 

Schepps’ spray has proven exceptionally effective, both as a fungicide 
and an insecticide. 

Dusts that contain sulphur are widely used for mildew. But they are 
better for beds of Roses than for Climbers, whose height and size make 
them more easily sprayed. 

For those who believe mildew comes from the ground, there are sev¬ 
eral good things to do to the soil to help build up in your plant a resist¬ 
ance to the disease. Potash, which develops hard wood, is good. Many 
successful growers put a liberal quantity of hardwood ashes, which con¬ 
tain potash, around their Rose plants, especially their Climbers, every 
August and again often in early Spring. Treating the soil as well as the 
plants with any good fungicide is a good preventive measure. Plain pow¬ 
dered sulphur dug into the ground around a plant will help. 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


169 


BLACK SPOT 

For black-spot, just plain commercial sulphur shaken from a flour sifter 
over some plants of Los Angeles once every week or two has been known 
to keep them covered all Summer with luxuriant foliage, free from black- 
spot. 

All the remedies recommended for mildew are effective in control of 
black-spot on most varieties. But, as in the case of the Ramblers and mil¬ 
dew, we have a class of Roses, the Pernetianas, which breed black-spot. 
It would be asking too much to banish them. Better to segregate them 
in beds to themselves, as has been previously suggested. The climbing 
forms of Pernetianas, such as Star of Persia and Le Reve, had better be 
placed in shrubbery where they can black-spot to their hearts’ con¬ 
tent, without doing anything but themselves harm, for black-spot is 
peculiarly a Rose disease. 

The chief precaution which may be taken is to keep the surface of the 
ground in a Rose bed perfectly clean. Never allow old leaves or flowers 
or trash of any kind to accumulate around the plant, and keep all infected 
leaves picked off and burned. 

Some excellent suggestions are: 

a. Withhold all barnyard fertilizer and use a chemical instead until 
the trouble clears up. 

b. Renew the top three inches of soil each year with fresh unin¬ 
fected earth. 

c. In May, before the disease usually presents itself, spray thor¬ 
oughly both the plants and the ground with a non-burning fun¬ 
gicide and then put on an inch or more layer of commercial 
sheep manure. This will give a fresh surface to the bed, provide 
a dust-mulch and furnish some valuable nourishment. 

Adopt this last suggestion for all your Rose beds; add a half cup of 
bonemeal, scratched in first around each bush, and you have a good 
formula for carrying your Roses safely through the hot weather. 

The question of how often to spray or dust, put hopefully, elicits the 
discouraging response that every week or ten days isn’t too often. But if 
the flesh, and even the spirit, quails at such a strenuous regime, take heart. 
Follow the last suggestion above in May. Do your dormant spraying after 
the last Roses are over in December, and again just before they come out 
in late February. And you will have done as much as the Roses themselves 
can reasonably expect of you, unless you happen to like the work. 

ROSE ENEMIES 

As for the control of insects, if you add to your fungicide sprays in 
May, December and February some good nicotine compound for the 
sucking insects and arsenate of lead for the chewing kind, you will go a 
long way toward freeing your garden of an unreasonable amount of pests. 

The sucking insects, such as the Aphis, come in a variety of colors— 
red, green, white, and black. But the one that most often troubles Roses 


Sulphur 

Dust 


Keep 

Rosebed 

Clean 


Suggested 

Remedies 


How Often 
to Spray 
or Dust 


Insects 


170 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Sucking 
Aphis 
"Green 
Bug» 


Nicotine 

Spray 


Fish-Oil 

Soap 

Chewing 

Insects 

Spray 

Poison 

Thrip 


Preventives 


Time for 
Planting 


Pall 


Exceptions 


is green and is widely known as "Green Bug”. It saps the vitality of the 
leaves and ruins the buds. It is particularly virulent in the wet, cool 
weather of early Spring and tends to disappear of itself when the dry 
heat of Summer sets in. 

Spray with a good nicotine solution every day until the insects depart. 
To this spray may be added a soap solution composed of one tablespoonful 
of fish-oil soap dissolved in boiling water and cooled before mixing. The 
soap acts as a "spreader” and makes the spray more effective. But the 
main idea is to wet all the insects thoroughly, since they are destroyed by 
smothering, not by poisoning. One caution to observe in the addition of 
soap is not to use it too strong or in the heat of the day, as it will burn 
tender foliage and do as much harm as the insects themselves. Never add 
soap to a combination spray. 

The chewing insects, caterpillars, cut-worms and the like have to be 
poisoned. Arsenate of lead, either in a spray or dust, is effective. But in a 
spray it discolors and often burns. A better suggestion for the growing 
season is to use a poison food compound around the base of the plant. 

Thrip, small, white, villainous creatures, start on the inside of a bud 
their sapping process, so that it is most difficult to reach them with 
sprays. The Rose turns brown around the edges and usually withers with¬ 
out opening. Thrip resemble lice and breed in open Roses, under blos¬ 
soms left flying on the ground, and in very heavy Roses, which, due to 
their own nature or atmospheric conditions, do not open fast enough. 
The best way to prevent Thrip is to keep full-blown flowers cut off your 
plant, never allow old blossoms to fall on the ground, and to discard all 
those Rose varieties which are known to "ball” consistently. 

To conserve time and energy, kill two bugs (the sucking and chewing) 
with one spray and steer clear of fungus diseases as well by using a good 
all-around Plant Spray before any trouble starts while it is going on and 
after it is apparently over, to safely speed the parting guest. 

PLANTING 

November, after the first light freeze, is planting time for Roses in 
the Southwest. At this season the ground is relatively warmer than the 
air, which induces root-growth. If transplanting is postponed until Feb¬ 
ruary, one will discover, upon taking up the plants, a newly developed 
system of small, white roots which will be largely sacrificed when dis¬ 
turbed at this later time. 

There are, however, two real exemptions from this Fall planting rule— 
pot-grown Roses and California-grown Roses. The former, being thor¬ 
oughly active, if subjected to a sudden freeze will seldom survive. The 
latter, under the same conditions, not being acclimated, will receive a 
shock which often proves fatal. Spring is the best time to plant these 
two sorts in this section. 

If you want the bushes to produce Roses and not just survive, a well- 
drained spot in full sunlight should be selected, well away from trees 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


171 


and hedge-plants, shrubs and flowers, which sap the fertility of the beds, 
and will propagate its enemies. The lovely Spirea and the Chrysanthemum 
are examples, both being hotbeds for the generation of the Aphis. 

Rose beds may be any shape desired, but to arrive at a pleasing effect, 
they should have some definite plan. Not more than two rows of bushes 
to a bed is advisable to make cultivation and cutting easy. Avoid step¬ 
ping in the bed, as it packs the ground, and injures the roots underneath. 
Average Rose-beds should be from three to four feet wide, with from two 
to three-foot paths in between. The distance apart of the bushes is deter¬ 
mined by the size and habit of growth of the varieties chosen. Radiance 
bushes should be planted at least two feet apart in one direction and 
eighteen inches in the other; other bushes from sixteen to eighteen inches, 
depending upon their type of growth. 

PREPARATION OF BEDS 

If possible prepare your beds some time before you will be ready to 
plant. Dig the ground to a depth of at least two feet and then thoroughly 
break up the "hard pan”, if it has been reached. Only the top foot of soil 
taken out will be very fertile, and this should be mixed with an equal 
quantity of well-rotted manure or leaf-mold; both provide humus which 
has the happy faculty of breaking up a heavy soil and binding a light 
one. 

If your bushes have not been pruned, cut out all but the three strong¬ 
est canes and cut these back to within three "eyes” or leaf-buds from the 
ground. Trim off all broken ends of roots; and then carry the bushes 
to the place of planting in a pail of water, exposing them (and especially 
the roots) as little as possible to the sun and wind. 

If making an entire new bed, plant a row at a time by the trench¬ 
ing system. Dig a long trench down one side of the bed to the proper 
depth, piling the earth taken out on the other side of the bed. 

Place the bushes the proper distance apart in this trench with their roots 
spread out, mounding the earth to the center to fit the rounded contour 
of the Rose’s root-system, leaving the bush naturally placed, and not 
in a depressed condition. Set the plants so that the "bud” (or point of 
union of the plant and the understock) will be just beneath the surface 
of the ground. Draw the soil that was put aside around each bush in turn, 
taking care to keep the roots in a natural position, and pointing down. 

In the first layer, incorporate a cup of bonemeal for each bush, being 
careful to thoroughly mix it with the soil; and, if your soil is black and 
heavy, about one-third sand would be a good addition. But don’t attempt 
to make your earth too light, as the heavy soil helps to anchor the Rose 
against the strong winds prevalent in the Southwest. 

When the entire bed has been filled within two inches of the top, firm 
the ground well, and then water. Let the hose run on the bed until it is 
thoroughly saturated. When the water drains away, any air pockets left 
are easily detected and may be filled with sand. Repeat the process until 


Ideal 
Locations 
Lor Roses 


Shape and 
Size of 
Beds 


Depth 
of Bed 


Preparation 
of Bushes 
for 

Planting 


Trenching 

System 


How to 
Place a 
Bush 


Soil 

Preparation 


Water 


172 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Top Cover 


Two-Year- 

Old 

Bushes 


Avoid Over- 
Stimulation 


Essential 

Food 

Demands 


Correct 
Diet Pro¬ 
portion 


Nitrogen 

Humus 


no holes appear. Then fill in the remaining two inches with loose soil. 
On top scatter some well-rotted manure, which will supply humus and 
retain moisture for the soil, and also act as the only Winter protection 
needed for Roses in this section. 

CARE OF NEW BUSHES 

New bushes so planted will need no more fertilizer or nourishment their 
first season. But apropos of a strange custom observed by some amateurs, 
of not allowing new bushes to bloom. It is one of those quaint traditions 
that has been handed down from the gardens of our grandmothers, who 
struggled patiently to develop a small cutting through the years into a 
good-sized bush. It has no real bearing on the supposedly well-grown, 
vigorous, two-year-old bushes sent to you by an up-to-date nurseryman. 
These plants have been grown for the express purpose of giving you 
abundant bloom their first season in your garden. And you are at perfect 
liberty to enjoy it without the least injury to the bush provided you do 
not cut the flowers with long stems before Fall. The plants do need their 
leaves to take care of their root system. But allowing the stem to come to 
full maturity, which occurs with the opening of the flower, does not 
harm the plant. In fact, it is highly probable that premature pinching 
may be really injurious, since the tender stem is bound to "bleed”, thus 
losing vitality, besides receiving a shock. It is not safe to reason from one 
kind of plant to another, but a source of anxiety, it has been said, to the 
orange growers is the harm done their trees by having their fruit pulled 
green before Nature had completed her process. 

FERTILIZATION 

There is a difference between feeding a plant and stimulating it. Too 
much stimulation, through the application of chemicals, may result in a 
"nervous wreck” of a plant. But it is a safe guess that more Roses die of 
starvation than of indigestion induced by too much feeding. 

A well-balanced diet has been called an essential to Rose health. A 
healthy person has an appetite and so has a healthy Rose. Nature does not 
allow a Rose to walk about and look for its food. She has chained it to 
one spot by its roots, but to compensate, she has put within its reach 
all that it needs for sustenance—light, air, water and the friendly earth 
from which to draw its three most essential foods—nitrogen, phosphorus 
and potash. 

Where a plant grows naturally, or "wild” as we say, the soil is neces¬ 
sarily suitable and sufficient. But, when we take up that plant and put 
it in our garden, we may be giving it a soil in which these elements are 
not available, or are in a wrong proportion for it. So the least we can 
do in all hospitality, is to import what it needs for its daily diet. This 
is not as difficult as it may sound. Well-rotted manure, so full of friendly 
bacteria, will release the necessary nitrogen and provide the necessary 
humus. Leaf mold in large quantities will work wonders. A cupful of 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


173 


bonemeal to each plant, in February, will insure its phosphorus for six 
months. A light layer of hardwood ashes will furnish a reasonable amount 
of potash. 

There are a few nice desserts that a Rose is fond of, such as a half cup 
of plain sulphur scratched into the soil occasionally, and a teaspoonful of 
iron sulphate once a month to give the buds "that school-girl complex¬ 
ion”—particularly relished by the yellows. 

It is safer for an amateur, not knowing the probable deficiencies of 
his soil, to employ a first-class, all-around plant food, used according to 
directions. A light application followed by a thorough watering once a 
month during the growing season, until the first of September in the 
Southwest, is not too often for established plants. Liquid fertilizer every 
two weeks is used by some growers. But stimulation after the last of 
August is unwise, since it will cause a late, tender growth, endangering the 
life of the plant if caught in an early freeze. 

WATERING 

The amount of watering that a Rose plant will need depends upon the 
incidental rainfall, how well the soil was prepared, how well and how 
often it is cultivated, and upon the nature of the soil, itself. The less it 
rains, the less well the soil was prepared and the less it is cultivated, the 
more watering will be required. As for the part the soil itself plays in the 
business, no sensible nurseryman would attempt to establish a Rose farm 
where he could not water his plants, such as in the "black-waxy land”, 
whose subterranean cracks, when it dries out, make one speculate on 
the possible distance to China. He chooses instead, a sandy soil with a 
clay base if possible, to conserve moisture. He plants in the open fields 
where, when it rains, the earth over a wide area will receive the full 
amount of the fall, undiminished by such limiting factors as paving, side¬ 
walks, stepping-stones, buildings and the like. There can be no possible 
parallel of comparison drawn between such a field and a city Rose 
garden. 

Certainly your Rose garden needs water and only you who know all 
the conditions can say how much. But when it needs it, give it water and 
plenty of it. Don’t withhold it, because of the theory of some person 
whose conditions are probably not the same any more than you would 
refuse a drink of water to some thirsty mortal on the same paltry grounds. 

WHAT PRICE A GOOD ROSE PLANT? 

Being some facts that every amateur gardener should know. 

An able nurseryman has said, "Most of the Rose troubles which develop 
in the amateur’s Rose bed originated in the nurseries that grew the 
bushes.” How true this statement is will become ever more apparent to 
an experienced grower. 

A naturally strong and healthy Rose is one that has been grown from 
good stock, under conditions as nearly ideal as possible, by an honest 


Phos¬ 

phorus 

Potash 

Sulphur 


Deficiencies 


Amount 

Required 


Origin of 

Most 

Trouble 


174 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Ideally 

Grown 

Bushes 


Popular 

Demand 


nurseryman, who, knowing how to grow good Roses, does it. It is one 
which reaches you soon enough after being dug to have lost the mini¬ 
mum in vitality, and which, in this necessary interim, has been handled, 
packed, and shipped with everv possible effort to conserve this vitality 
through proper moisture and exclusion of air. All this calls for money, 
time, and labor, as well as skilled knowledge. So, little wonder that a 
nurseryman must ask for a first-class bush a first-class price. 

The variety of a bush plays less of a part in an amateur’s success or 
failure with it than is generally supposed. Much more depends on the 
way it was grown previously. Any variety can be built up by a clever 
grower, in time, by propagation from selected stock, under the best 
conditions, and by the best methods. An example of this is the Radiance, 
for the Radiance was rescued from obscurity and bred to the perfection 
it has attained in the Southwest through just such means. 


Good 

Bushes 


Quick 
Results in 
Plant and 
Bloom 


Budded 

Types 


How to Recognise a Good Bush 

A good bush for an amateur to buy is a two-year-old plant 
with a well-developed root system showing no disease. It has from 
three to four strong canes, apparently clean and healthy, with no 
signs of being dried out. 

Whether a plant should be budded or on its own roots is no 
real question, for each kind has its merits and disadvantages, the 
real question being, what do you want from your plant? 

If you want quick results and abundant bloom, by all means 
choose a well-budded plant, but if you prefer longevity in the 
bush, stick to the own-rooted kind, if you can find a good nursery 
that deals in them any more, for from a commercial point of view, 
there is no question about the greater desirability of the budded 
stock. 

Though strong-growing types, such as Shrubs, Climbers, Poly- 
anthas, Radiances and the like will prosper very well on their own 
roots, some new varieties have been too inbred to make roots for 
themselves very rapidly. Two chief faults found in some budded 
stock are that they are too high budded, and are not made as 
nearly as possible "sucker”-proof. 

Unless a plant is budded low enough, the roots will be too far 
below the surface of the soil to survive, for in their natural state, 


ROSES IN THE SOUTHWEST 


175 


Rose roots lie just beneath the surface. For this reason, notice the 
point of union of the bud and the understock of a plant, and if it 
is not close to the root-system, don’t expect the bush either to do 
very well, or to live very long. 

As for the matter of a plant sending up wild shoots or "suckers” 
from the understock, they must be torn off from the rootstock 
deep down, and to do this successfully is often difficult without 
digging up the plant. After all, it might save time and trouble if 
you did dig it up and throw it out at the beginning, for a plant 
rarely gets over such a tendency, it being largely the product of 
a faulty and cheap system of propagation. 

Southwestern-grown Roses are unquestionably best for the 
Southwest. Due to the bright quality of our daylight, to the favor¬ 
able balance here of those two agencies for maturity in a plant 
—heat and cold—and to our long season of growth, no better 
Roses can be grown anywhere for us than in our own section. 

Virginia Shumate Loomis. 


The Quest 
For Con¬ 
tinuous 
Bloom 
in the 
Garden 


Conditions 
Peculiar 
to the 
Southwest 


ft A Cycle of 
M' Continuous Bloom 

VWvJA f we could solve the problem of continuous bloom in 
the garden, much of the fascination of gardening 
-sSyili,*' would be dulled, if not absolutely extinguished. It is 
the constant breathless quest, with disappointment and disaster 
here and there, but success ever around the corner, that lures us 
on. To paraphrase Browning, "The gardens we aspire to have and 
have not comfort us,” and there is pure joy in the quest for a 
perfection which constantly eludes us. A gardener, if he lives to 
be ninety, can fold his hands at the end and say, "Here endeth 
the first lesson”, for his hope is to gather Asphodels and Daisies in 
the Elysian Fields where a cycle of continuous bloom will be his 
reward for grubbing and spraying and sweating here. 

Here in the semi-arid Southwest we are agricultural pioneers. 
We have the thrill of experimentation and of adaptation. We 
have peculiar climatic conditions that thwart our exuberant 
hopes in one direction, only to reward them richly in another. A 
wealth of native trees, shrubs, and flowers is at our command and 
we long, perversely, to grow something that will never be any¬ 
thing but a sickly ghost of its robust parent plant. We are like the 
immortal Tartarian who, oblivious of the beauty of the giant 
Plane-trees of his native Provence, was only happy when he could 
exhibit an African Rubber tree in a four-inch pot. The Rubber 
Tree’s normal spread is nearly an acre. 


SHRUBS 

Let us reform and take stock of what is here at our doors. In 
the Southwest there is no month in the year in which some flower 


176 


A SPRING GARDEN 

Jonquils, Wisteria, Broom, Stocks, Iris, Red Bud and Pansies (border) 
A garden carefully planned will produce 
a succession of different color-effects. 

















A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


177 


is not in bloom. Starting with shrubs and vines we can have 
blooms from January to October, and berries and autumn leaves 
from October to Christmas. It is true that shrubs such as Pyrus 
Japonica and Forsythia, if tempted by a warm January to burst 
into bloom, will be severely nipped and set back one month as 
punishment for their impatient spirit. But the sweet Bush Honey¬ 
suckle, undismayed by freezing temperature, comes out and stays 
out on naked branches without even the protection of leaves. 

On a sunshiny day in early February we see a glint of yellow in 
our still leafless borders—the Jasmine nudiflorum coming into 
bloom. Soon its long sprays with their star-like blossoms form a 
golden shower, the first gay harbinger of Spring. 

This is the time when the Pyrus Japonica in small, tight buds 
can be brought into the house where they will open in lovely shades 
of white, flesh and deep pink and can be used effectively alone or 
with Pussy Willow’s brown stems and gray velvety buds. Soon the 
buds of the early Lilac burst. The Almond and Pear trees, Peach 
and Wild Plum send out their fragrance, and the Japanese Plum 
(Prunus japonica—Pissardi) with its feathery white sprays and 
dark copper foliage and stems make one of the loveliest pictures 
of early Spring. 

March sees the Red Bud pass from lavender-pink in bud to 
ashes-of-roses in bloom. Then follows the procession of shrubs, the 
white clusters of the Blackhaw, pink and white flowering Peach, 
the flowering Almond, the dainty Kerria japonica, the Spiraea Van 
Houttei, the Weigelia, Deutzia, Tamarix africana, Flowering Wil¬ 
low, Parkinsonia and Poinciana. 

Genista hispanica ("Scotch Broom”), which grows radiantly in 
our climate, is nothing less than the wild Genista of Italy and the 
"Planta Genet” of France, once the emblem of the royal house of 
England. It blooms all through May, giving way to that other 
shrub of Spain, the Pomegranate, with its brilliant blossoms and 
fruit. 

The Crape Myrtle begins blooming in June in soft, pale colors 
that are soothing in our Summer heat. 

The most regal plant that grows in this latitude is the Magnolia 


For Inter¬ 
mediate 
Bloom 


Mid-Season 

Bloom 


Summer 

Blooming 

Shrubs 


178 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 



Those That 
Are Berry- 
Bearing or 
Have Color¬ 
ful Foliage 


Evergreens 


grandiflora. Nothing more stately can 
be imagined than a full-grown tree, a 
perfect specimen, towering to a slen¬ 
der point with its dark-green, shining 
leaves, studded with its creamy, wax¬ 
like buds and blossoms. We must wait 
seven years, at least, for a young tree 
to bloom, but the reward is worth it. 
June is ushered in by the small, yel¬ 
low Jasmine, blooming in masses; the 
Abelia with its white clusters and 
copper-colored Calyx; and the blue Lilac, and the white Vitex, 
whose pungent foliage adds to its value as a border background. 

Our berry-bearing shrubs usually fill in spaces in the border, 
unnoticed until Autumn crowns them with orange, scarlet and 
coral berries and varied leaf-shadings of copper and gold. The 
Sumac (Rhus) deserves a place in every garden, as nothing 
surpasses its gorgeous Autumn coloring. Massed as border back¬ 
grounds or on hillsides with the glossy-green leaf and scarlet ber¬ 
ries of the native Yaupon, the Blackhaw, and the orange and red 
berries of the Thorn, we have a combination of Autumn’s richest 
tones. The Nandina, called by the Chinese "Heavenly Bamboo”, is 
a valuable addition to our gardens with its wax-like blossoms in 
May and its scarlet fruit in Winter. The Coral-berry is a sturdy 
native plant and once planted, has to have its runners frequently 
cut back in order to keep it from taking the entire garden. In 
and out, here and there, in all our planting, must be the strong 
accent of Evergreens and the list must start with our native Red 
Cedar, varied by the blue-green of the Arizona Cypress, the many 
varieties of Arbor Vitae, Italian Cypress and Cedrus deodara. The 
Ground Juniper is indispensable for color and form. Mahonia gives 
tone with its creamy-yellow blossoms in Spring and its rich color¬ 
ing in Fall and Winter. 

VINES 

Among the vines there is a wealth to choose from, the first to 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


179 


bloom being Wisteria. Honeysuckle with its perfume and its grace 
still remains a prime favorite, as does the Woodbine, and the 
Clematis paniculata is a grateful sight to the eye in June. The 
lovely yellow Bignonia, a native of Louisiana, and preferring a 
swampy habitat, seems out of place in our arid section, but once 
established, it persists and is one of the most beautiful sights of 
Spring. One of the glories of our special climatic conditions is the 
growth in partial shade and dampness of English Ivy. Nothing 
gives the desired air of age and tradition which a garden must 
have to be interesting like the draping of Ivy upon pillars and 
walls. The historic mantle of Ivy gives an atmosphere of "walls 
that are ancient and stones decayed” which Longfellow says are 
essential to the Ivy’s happiness. The 
Perennial Sweet Pea climbs and throws 
out its pink clusters as a covering to back 
fences and the Coral Vine in Fall adds a charming 
note of color and grace. We must not forget the 
native Sarsaparilla Vine, a vigorous grower, with 
rich crimson berries in Winter. 

CLIMBING ROSES 

There are a number of Climbing Roses that add color 
and beauty to our Spring gardens. We have but to 
choose our color scheme, and a long list is obtainable. 
The most prolific and constant bloomer that I know 
among the Climbers is the old-fashioned Empress of 
China . It is not large, not single, though scantily petaled, 
and of a modest inconspicuous pink, but its blooming 
season is almost incredible. It starts blooming the first 
of April and puts out showers of blooms for two or three 
weeks. From then on, in diminished quantity, it blooms 
continuously till June, and frequently buds forth again 
in September or October. Thousand Beauties blooms 
about May 1st, with Mary Wallace, Silver Moon, Ameri¬ 
can Pillar, Dr . W. Van Fleet and Cherokee (the latter 

may be trained as a hedge). 

UW 



Earliest 
Vines to 
Bloom 


Ivy 


Fall 

Blooming 


Some 

Fink 

Varieties 




180 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Pauls 
Scarlet 
on a 
Pergola 


Earliest 
Bulbs and 
Other Plants 
to Bloom 


Tor Inter 

mediate 

Bloom 


Pauls Scarlet is lovely on the white pillars of a pergola or white 
posts that carry the chains of a rose garland. If your garland or 
pergola is at the end of a vista, nothing could be lovelier, but for 
limited space in smaller gardens, the shell-pink Mary Wallace , the 
salmon Jacotte or the pink Cherokee are better. The Silver Moon is 
lovely for wide spaces. Let it climb to the tops of tall trees, but it is 
too rank for the small garden and must be restrained or banished. 

FLOWERING PLANTS 

With the hedges, shrubs and vines for background, let us take 
up next the problem of plants in their habit and order of bloom. 

It is January and the Violets are blooming in purple sheets, wide 
as our planting of them permits. Their purple is varied by clumps 
of white Violets and of wild Violets of palest blue. Grape Hya¬ 
cinths make vivid splashes of royal blue and the delicate blue oi 
the Triteleias, a dainty flower of the old South, loved and grown 
in Louisiana and the Carolinas, makes a charming border at the 
edge of flagstone paths. Adjoining the Triteleias, under the pergola, 
or in shady places where grass is hard to grow plant Vinca Minor, 
or Gill-over-the-ground. These add a vivid green to the shaded 
garden path which should be accented here and there with clumps 
of Snowflakes. Crocus are not so easy to grow in our climate, but 
their purple and gold, even if the bulbs live only for a season, add 
much to this first preview of the Spring which caries us well into 
March. 

Following the Snow Flakes come the Pansies, English Daisies, 
and Narcissus, Daffodils and Jonquils start their procession of 
bloom. The earliest and smallest, the sweet-scented yellow Jonquil, 
is, to me, the most enchanting of all. It blends harmoniously with 
the early single blue Hyacinth, Azura and Muscari, which are also 
favorites of the old South. The one-tone yellow and the bicolor 
Jonquils combine with the various Narcissus to perfume the gar¬ 
den for weeks while, close on their heels follow the Darwin Tulips. 
As an edging for Jonquil and Tulip beds, Sweet Alyssum is charm¬ 
ing, varied with patches of the Clove-Pink in its various shades of 
flesh, mauve and pink. Sweet Alyssum blooms almost perpetually. 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


181 


It often survives the winter and should be clipped from time to 
time to make it take a fresh start. The Pinks (Dianthus) come out 
in April and bloom profusely for several weeks. If you cut all the 
dead blooms off, they will be dormant for a while and start bloom¬ 
ing again in June. 

March sees the Lilacs come and go, blending in tone with the 
Wisteria where space permits a vista and with the early white 
Florentina and purple Germanica Iris. Stocks in shades of laven¬ 
der, and Wild Flowers of yellow and bronze, tone in with the 
picture. Under the Red Buds make a planting of Tulips, Dream, 
Moonlight, and Clara Butt , in drifts, down to an edging of Phlox 
divaricata and pale yellow Phlox Drummondii. This makes a pic¬ 
ture in soft pastel shades. Approach this picture if possible through 
pillars of Hugonis, or an arch of Lady Banksia, for the clear yellow 
of both these Roses has a luminous quality that is unique. 

After the Tulips go, the Iris symphony of color begins. It starts 
the first week of April and lasts in all its rich and gorgeous color¬ 
ing through the second week of May. The color combination are 
endless—deep purples and lavenders, yellow and blue, vivid dwarf 
varieties in bronze, pink, mauve, and the numberless two-toned 
ones. 

Choose your colors and plant in alternating clumps or drifts 
down a long border. Put the pale shades in the foreground and the 
stronger colors further away. There is no flower that repays us 
in this climate like the Iris. None that stands more neglect and 
none that responds more to intelligent care. With Iris nothing is 
lovelier than Aquilegia (Columbine). The long-spurred varieties 
(Mrs. Scott Elliott strain) are a tremendous advance over the old 
ones. A mauve shade with white, purple, or yellow Iris is beauti- 
tiful, and the delicacy of the Columbine makes it a fitting com¬ 
panion for the queenly flower of France. 

The earliest dwarf varieties of Lemon Lilies (Hemerocallis) are 
blooming now, as well as Sweet William in various shades of pink. 
The Oxford, salmon pink, is the loveliest, and the white with rosy 
eye is a general favorite, with dark, velvety-red for the more dis¬ 
tant borders. Behind them in the borders grow the taller plants, 


The 

Mid-Season 

Bloom 


Iris 

Succession 
of Bloom 


Plant in 
Drifts 


182 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Border 

Plants 


Some 
Contrasts 
To Blue 


Early 

Summer 

Bloom 


The 

Yuccas 


June 

Bloom 


Anchusa italica, and the single blue and pink Campanulas. 

A good edging for a bed of April and May bloom is Nepeta 
Mussini, English Catmint, which cannot be too highly praised. It 
has a gray-green foliage and showers in sprays of lavender blue. 
Just behind it plant pale yellow Phlox, alternating with deeper 
shades of dwarf yellow Iris, and dwarf Lemon Lilies. 

The Larkspur, which started blooming the last of April, con¬ 
tinues to flower all during May and combines well with Corn¬ 
flowers and Poppies of all varieties, including Eschscholtzia in its 
various shades of cream and yellow. The gorgeous Orientate , like 
the Delphinium, is still being coaxed to dwell with us, but they do 
not survive our hot Summer and must be used, as yet, only as 
annuals. Madonna Lilies look well planted behind tall blue Lark¬ 
spur and near clumps of Lemon yellow Lilies (Hemerocallis 
Thunbergi ). I like them, too, planted for strong contrast near 
Red Radiance Roses. 

All the summer flowers now troop in. In front of tall, sentinel 
Hollyhocks of pale yellow and pink, at the back of a border, plant 
drifts of salmon-pink Snapdragons, blue Canterbury Bells, Corn¬ 
flowers, Veronica, Scabiosa, Salvia azurea with clumps of Marguer¬ 
ites and Coreopsis. These combine well with the clear yellow of 
Spanish broom (Genista) which can be used as accents for corners. 
Lavender Pentstemon and Giant Sweet Sultan (Centaurea Imperi - 
alis) grow wild in our fields in May. Like the brilliant red Texas 
Plume of June, they are difficult to transplant to our gardens (see 
page 68), but by experience, we can and must learn how to make 
them at home. 

Large grounds and wide borders permit the planting of groups 
of our native white Yuccas which, alternating with the Coral 
Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora or Engelmannii) are lovely in the 
June border and combine with Gladioli in the cream and salmon 
shades. Rosemary and Hemerocallis (Fluva and Flava) bring the 
order down to an edging of Plumbago Larpentae with its deep- 
blue flowers, which continue in bloom for weeks. 

In June the Syringa still lingers; the Trumpet-Vine flourishes 
and the Clematis spreads its foamy petals over walls and pergolas. 


A CYCLE OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM 


183 


In the bulb borders vivid Cannas bloom. Day Lilies and quick¬ 
growing Zinnias take the place of Poppies and other annuals ex¬ 
hausted and uprooted. The feathery Calliopsis with yellow and 
bronze flowers replaces tired Coreopsis, and Polyantha Roses bloom 
valiantly, while the other Roses rest for a season. Petunias and 
Verbenas spread and make an effort to cover all the bare places 
of the garden and the Chinese Forget-me-not sends up its dainty 
sprays. Portulaca, unafraid of blistering heat, continues to open in 
the evening and close in the morning during most of the Summer. 

July, August and September flowers are almost a repetition of 
those of June with one notable recruit of recent introduction, for 
the purple Spanish Salvia (leucantha) which glorifies the flower 
markets of Spain has come to us from Mexico and has been grown 
with great success here. It forms a large bush which becomes a 
mass of rich purple panicles and blooms from late July till frost. 
The Physostegia virginiana (False Dragonhead) begins to bloom 
in August, and blooms into October. The Eupatorium, commonly 
called "Ageratum”, starts in September and blooms till it is 
exhausted. 

The garden in October has a sort of revival, and becomes a riot 
of color with Chrysanthemums, Heleniums, Cosmos, and Michel- 
mas Daisies. The little French Marigold, Legion of Honor, covers 
the ground in front of the higher plants, and the Sweet Alyssum, 
trimmed back, has bloomed again. The Mexican Coral Vine has 
draped itself over walls and trees and fences. The Roses are bloom¬ 
ing with exaggerated stems and vigor, and the Autumn leaves and 
berries are turning. 

Through November and often up to Christmas we have color 
in the garden. The red and red-copper of the Sumac, the pale gold 
of the Crape Myrtle, the Pear tree’s stunning bronze leaves, and 
the rich shading of the Pomegranate from gold to crimson, the 
fruit and foliage of the Nandina and of the Mahonia, the Coral 
berry, the red and the orange of the Thorn and the crimson ber¬ 
ries of the Yaupon and the Sarsaparilla, all combine to bring the 
year to a close in a burst of gorgeous color. 

The only way to have continuous color in the garden is to study 


Early Fall 
Bloom 


October 

Glory 


Colorful 

Fruit 

and Foliage 


184 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


the practical relation between the combinations of color and the 
art of inter-planting. For example, the Violet or Pansy edging of 
early Spring becomes an edging of pale yellow Phlox Drummondi 
by growing Phlox seed just back of the Violets in the Fall. They 
will be small plants by the first of April when the Violets are cut 
back to get rid of the red spider. The Phlox will grow rapidly and 
form a vigorous border. When this is over, Pink Sorrel (oxalis) 
and a few plants of Plumbago Larpentae will take its place. 

Pansies can be succeeded by Petunias, and Wallflowers by all 
the woody Pinks. Beside Tulip bulbs plant Sweet William and 
Columbine, which will grow as the Tulip matures and dies, and 
will take its place. 

Thin out Iris as soon as it has bloomed to give space to crowded 
Chrysanthemums and Cosmos for Fall blooming. 

Trim back all plants that will have a second blooming, such as 
Nepeta, Clove Pinks, and Sweet Alyssum. 

Roses will do better in Mid-Summer somewhat protected by 
shade from other plants, but later pull up the plants that crowd 
them so that they may bloom at their best in Autumn. 

Clematis paniculata can be planted on a Rose arbor to follow 
the Spring Roses when their season is over, and on a back fence 
the orange and red of the Trumpet Vine look lusty and heat-proof. 

The best time to plant nearly everything in the Southwest is the 
Fall. Study the flower catalogues in Summer and make your plans 
of design and color. Plant vigorously in the Fall and continue to 
plant certain things throughout the Winter. In the Spring, in 
comparative idleness, enjoy the fruits of your labor. 

Stella Hutcheson Dabney. 



A SUMMER GARDEN 


Crape Myrtle, Hemerocallis, White and Red Yucca, Larkspur, Poppies, 
Phlox, Daisies and Alyssum (border) 

A garden carefully planned will produce 
a succession of different color-effects. 




























Native PI ants and Herbs 

that Charm and Heal 

The Lore and Legend of Same Varieties of Southwestern Vegetation 

T T T E are told that our superstitions are but degenerated forms 
V V of scientific facts, and that Science is continually learning 
from Superstition. The Mexican who sows Fennel in his garden 
knows that “to sow Fennel is to sow sorrow,” but he offsets this 
act by planting Rosemary and Blue Sage at his door, the former 
symbolic of happiness and the latter indicative of long life. 

It is said that Charlemagne forced his soldiers to wear Flouseleek 
on their clothing as a measure of good luck; that the young, pious 
Crusader, Louis VII, courted the favor of the Iris which has “a 
sword for its leaf and a lily for its heart,” according to Ruskin; 
and where is the old-fashioned American mother who tied a bit 
of asafetida about her offspring’s neck during periods of con¬ 
tagion? ^ 

A modern poet writes thusly of the native plants— 

"For flowers, like men, are finest when 
There’s least of the wild remaining.” 

Not everyone will agree with this viewpoint. Whatever the 
mission of plants and flowers, it is interesting to note 
that to certain of them there has always been at¬ 
tributed particular mystical powers and curative 
properties. Nature, with her “infinite variety,” 
has seemed to have a definite fondnes for the 
wilding. 

While the various opposing 
medical schools have been warring 


Science 

of 

Superstition 


Herbs 

in 

Legend 



185 



186 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Herbs 

in 

Medical 

Usage 


among themselves as to the cause and cure of disease in the humai i 
body, natural and primitive man has been drawing successfully 
throughout the ages from the vegetable kingdom for his food and 
medicine, and witches, sorcerers, conjurers and others with some 
knowledge of the curative value of plants have plied their trade 
to their own purposes. 

The Southwest grows literally hundreds of medicinal herbs and 
shrubs which have for long been used advantageously by the 
natives, and thru this connection considerable knowledge and much 
folklore has been handed down. Leaves, flowers, roots, and in some 
cases the seeds, are the parts of the plant that are used for medic¬ 
inal purposes. Boiling water or alcohol are the mediums of in¬ 
fusion. The following are but a few of the more important native 
medicinal herbs: 


MEXICAN WORMWOOD (Artemisia 
mexicana), Aster family, grows abund¬ 
antly here. It is from a close relative of 
our Artemisia that the Frenchman gets 
his absinthe. We are told that the genus 
acquired its name from Artemisia, wife of 
Mausolus, king of Hallicarnasus, who 
built a famous tomb for himself and wife. 
Modern gardens display these plants and 
related species as border and bouquet fea¬ 
tures under the name of Dusty Miller. 
Medicinally it is anthelmintic, tonic and 
narcotic. 

CROTON TEA, also called Tea Plant and 
'Mexican Tea (Croton monanthogynus ), 
Spurge family, is a rusty colored, aromatic 
weed whose leaves are gathered while still 
in blossom and used for tea by the Mex¬ 
icans. The dried leaves and stems when 
ground are employed as flavoring or as a 
condiment for meats, and the well-known 
Croton Oil is obtained from a variety. It 
is diaphoretic and sudorific. 

BLUE SAGE (Salvia farinaceae), Salvia 
family, was first discovered in South 
Europe, and it is one of the most prolific, 
most common and most beautiful of the 
Southwestern blue flowers. There are sev¬ 
eral varieties, each blooming at a different 
season, which gives a rather continuous 
blue cast to the landscape. A delicious and 


refreshing tea is made from the leaves 
which, together with the whorls of small 
flowerets, should be carefully gathered 
and dried during the blossoming season. 
It is also much utilized as a seasoning for 
meats and dressings. It is tonic, astringent, 
expectorant and diaphoretic. 

MOTH MULLEIN and Velvet, or Blanket 
Mullein (Verbascum thapsus ), Figwort 
family, is a stout biennial whose straight, 
tall, wooly stem grows alternate, big hairy 
leaves that lie close to the ground mostly. 
It was probably introduced from Europe, 
but is now common in this country, and 
is indigenous to lowlands and moist places. 
According to tradition, the Romans of the 
14th Century sprinkled the powdered 
seeds and roots on water to induce fish to 
bite, and they also dipped the stalks in 
suet, allowed it to dry and used them for 
procession torches. About the same time 
the Greeks were utilizing the leaves, which 
they soaked in oil, for lamp wicks. Roman 
women dyed their tresses to a golden hue 
in an infusion of the flowers. Germans 
carried flambeaux for festivals, mullein 
stalks covered with pitch. Humming birds 
employ the hairs from the leaves in their 
nest building, and primitive folk used the 
dried leaves and flowers for a smoke. The 
plant is demulcent, diuretic, anodyne and 
anti-spasmodic in effect. 


NATIVE PLANTS THAT CHARM AND HEAL 187 


YARROW, or Milfoil (Achillea millefol- 
iuvi), Thistle family, is one of the most 
useful of the native herbs. Achilles, from 
whom the name came, knew of its virtues 
and applied it to the wounds of his 
soldiers. It has figured in the literature, 
mythology, folklore and medicine of 
many lands. Its potency as a love charm, 
its efficacy as a witches brew, its curative 
property as a doctor’s remedy and its 
aesthetic value to the garden have made it 
notable. It is astringent, alterative and 
diuretic. 

WILD LETTUCE, or Sow Thistle ( Lactuca 
canadensis) , Chicory family, is another in¬ 
teresting herb that was introduced from 
Europe. We know little of its early history 
and scarcely more of its near relative, the 
garden variety. Herodotus speaks of its 
being eaten as a salad in 5 50 B.C., and the 
old Roman served it at his table. The 
plant’s milky juice yields an opium substi¬ 
tute that is used by the medical profession. 
Caterpillars and other insects feast on it, 
but the animal world leaves it untouched. 
Verily, "one man’s meat is another’s 
poison!” It is narcotic and demulcent. 

DOG-TOOTHED VIOLET, or Adder’s 
Tongue ( Erythronium albidum) , Lily 
family, is a perennial of short flowering 
season, usually from March to May, ac¬ 
cording to locality, and the flowers and 
leaves wilt soon after being picked. The 
bulb, which is edible, was roasted and en¬ 
joyed both by the Indians and the early 
settlers. As a property it is emetic, emolli¬ 
ent, and antiscorbutic when fresh, but 
when dried, it is nutritive. 

SENNA ( Cassia roemeriana) , Senna family, 
was first used as a medicine by the Arabs. 
The Red-bud (Cercis Occidentalis), be¬ 
longs to this family, and the old settlers 
claimed its bark would relieve chills and 
fevers. The tender buds of a kindred 
variety are in demand in England for 
salads. The leaves make a valuable, mild 
and effectual tea. It is cathartic in princi- 

• pie. 


HORSEMINT (Monarda dispersa), Mint 
family, is a perennial that got its name 
from a Spanish authority on medicinal 
plants, one Nicholas Monardez. Hore- 
hound (Marrubium vulgare); Skullcap 
(Scutellaria drummondii); Wild Berga¬ 
mot (Monarda fistulosa); and several of 
the Pennyroyals are near relatives, and 
members of the Mint family that are use¬ 
ful in the preparation of curative teas. 

Other herbs which are utilized in infu¬ 
sions are the Wormseed (Chenopodium an- 
thelminticum), naturalized from Europe; 
Balsam Groundsel (Senecio balsamitae); 
Watercress (Nasturtium officinale) as a 
salad is rich in Vitamin E; Plantain 
(Plantago occidentalis) ; Wild Parsley 
(Ptilimnium laciniatum); and the Violet 
(Viola missouriensis). 

WILD CARROT ( Daucus pusillus), called 
also Queen Anne’s Lace, is lovely as well 
as useful. The carrot dates its domestica¬ 
tion to the prehistoric period. It is reputed 
to have been used in Rome in Pliny's day, 
and the early Spaniards believed the root 
to be an efficacious remedy for rattle 
snake bite. 

DAMIANA MEXICANA ( Chrysactinia 
mexicana), Thistle family, is pitted with 
oil glands, and is at once aromatic and 
resinous. It is a tonic, stimulative and 
laxative. 

BUTTERFLY WEED ( Asclepias tuberosa), 
Milkweed family, also called Pleurisy 
Root, as the name implies, is much used 
for diseases of the lungs and pulmonary 
organs. 

MISTLETOE ( Phoradendron flavescens) 
Mistletoe family, a parasite growth, is 
similar to the Old World Mistletoe which 
the Druid priests kept in their homes; and 
the Indians chew the leaves to cure tooth¬ 
ache. 

CASTOR BEAN ( Ricinus communis) 
Palma Christi, Spurge family, yields an oil 
that is widely known as a cathartic, and 
as a lubricant for machinery. The plant 
was first introduced as a medicine in 1764 
by Peter Cavone of the West Indies. 


Among the medicinal herbs none was more treasured by the early 
settlers than the lovely Mountain Pink (Erythraea Beyrichii) known as 
Quinine weed. They gathered the plants while in bloom, dried them, and 


Other 

Herbs 


An 

Early 

Fever 

Remedy 


188 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Narcotics 


put them to soak in good brandy; administering a tablespoonful three 
times a day as a remedy for chills and fever. 

Other medicinal herbs that flourish in the Southwest are: Nettle 
(Solanum caroliniensis); Pokeberry (Phytolacca decandra); Golden Rod 
(Solidago serotina); Eryngo (Eryngium leavenworthii); Penstemon 
Cobaea (Foxglove, Beard-tongue); Helianthus (Sunflowers); Wood Sorrel 
(Oxalis drummondii); the Kansas Sunflower (Brauneria); Black Night¬ 
shade (Solanum nigrum) ; and the Jimson Weed , or Thorn Apple (Datura 
stramonium). 

Among the definite narcotics to be found here are Purslane Speedwell 
(Veronica perigrina); Herb-of-the-Cross (Verbena officinalis); Bitter 
Corn Salad (Valerianella amarilla) and a small, dry-looking grayish-green 
weed (Nicotiana repanda), commonly known as Indian Tobacco, which 
frequents city lawns and adjacent fields. What a stiff, soulless little thing 
the latter plant is! And yet, along with all the others, it has a place in the 
Universal Scheme. 

This article lays no claim to exhaustive detail; nor does it deal 
with the plants from the standpoint of medical efficacy; neither 
does it recommend their use medicinally in any form. It features 
only those plants and herbs that are themselves classified under the 
head of Herbal Materia Medica, or such as are related to plants so 
listed, and those that have food value, with regard for interest 
and appeal. 


Mary Daggett Lake. 


FEATURE eARJDBM. 


\ - Desert Plants 

V jf herever one may wish to adopt one of the desert 

Mr jt Ms Yuccas, Sotols, Agaves or Opuntias into the gen- 
era ^ scheme of planting, one finds a surprising list 

s lljga f of variations from which to choose in what is usu¬ 

ally thought to be a strictly limited class of plants. Be sure, how¬ 
ever, that this type of plant fits into the plan and that they are 
truly desired and admired, for very few bear transplanting easily. 
Cactus, especially, seldom survive the second or third season. 
Many gorgeous specimens have been dug, most of which have 
died, for contrary to the popular belief, many are fully as slow 
in growth as forest trees, and as difficult to move with perma¬ 
nent success. They have as many pests and diseases and possibly 
more, than any other family of flowers. Greenhouse varieties often 
become covered with plant lice and scale, which may be con¬ 
trolled by a special spray containing denatured alcohol (the for¬ 
mula published by Desert Magazine ), while out-of-doors, even 
the sturdiest, the Opuntias, often become infested with many kinds 
of bugs and lice. The large bugs that so deface and injure them 
may be controlled by a five per cent solution of kerosene emulsion. 
Yet when Opuntias do live, their blossoms are as lovely as any 
tropical water lily. Of these there are many varieties that propagate 
easily (see page 221) from cuttings and other methods, some of 
which are most strange. 

The Opuntia seed pods, even, when stuck into sand while green, 
will sprout; and often small particles of the plant will become 
detached, taking root where they drop. Sometimes these are car¬ 
ried considerable distances from the parent plant by their light¬ 
ness and the buoying effect of the wind against the long spines. 

Probably the most universally grown of all the large Cactus 


Range of 
Choice 


Propagation 


189 


190 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Opuntia 

Cacti 


Soil Con¬ 
ditions 
Cacti Like 


family are the modernistic-looking Opuntias, whose economic habit 
of growth has dispensed with both stem and stalk, retaining only 
the large fleshy, thorned leaves, usually the size and thickness of 
a man’s hand. Even the exquisite flowers have no stem, but emerge 
from the thin edge of an upright leaf. These golden blossoms re¬ 
mind one of a Water Lily by some strange chance poised lightly 
in an extremely uncongenial environment. However, the Opun¬ 
tias are not stingy in the numbers of their blossoms nor in their 
response in rapid growth to good soil conditions when given them. 
The fact that they do not demand rich soil or much moisture 
(except in Spring), does not deny their liking for it when it is 
provided. They are most adaptable to circumstances, and are very 
resourceful. 

The general impression of Cactus is that it grows best in alka¬ 
line soil and in very dry places; though, in reality, scientists tell 
us they were originally bog plants which have resourcefully 
adapted themselves to the most adverse conditions. They have been 
found fluorishing in rich, decomposed plant matter (or leaf 
mould) that has lodged against trees or rocks. These latter obstruc¬ 
tions have answered a twofold purpose in supplying a soil that 
Cactus delight in having, and in keeping their roots cool by help¬ 
ing to hold what moisture there is in the ground. Therefore, in 
preparing a Cactus bed, it is wise to recognize all these facts. In 
general, Cactus will relish a soil composed of one part good, 
dark earth, to one part leaf-mold, to which is added one part 
large grained sand. 

Of strange, unusual growth is the 
Ocotillo, the "Manicured Fingers of 
the Desert,”—so called because the 
scarlet bloom-cluster is at the tip of 
and is in reality a continuation of the 
long, narrow "fingers,” which seldom 
appear singly—several generally 
^ sprawling irregularly, 

^_* being of as many vary- 

.** ing lengths as are the 








DESERT PLANTS 


191 


fingers on a human hand. The stiff stalks are heavily spined, and 
studded with tiny, rounded, fleshly-soft, green leaves, for a season, 
that scarcely protrude beyond the spines and cover the cane from 
the ground to its extreme length—or to the "bloom”. The plant is 
very odd, decorative, and lends a distinct atmosphere to Spanish 
grounds. 

Others of the Cacti that may be employed for their decidedly 
individual contributions to a garden are those of the Opuntia, 
known as Tree Cactus, of which the Opuntia Aborescens possibly 
has the loveliest blossoms; the Rat-tail Cactus (Opuntia Lepto- 
caulis), an erect bushy plant composed of greyish green stems, 
usually considerably smaller than a pencil and bristling with spines; 
or the various Echinocactus, great rounded heads with fairly long 
spikey thorns radiating from geometrically placed centers, the most 
common being the "Hedgehog,” the "Pin Cushion,” the "Nipple,” 
and the "Barrel” or "Water” Cactus. Of the Echinocereus family, 
probably the "Strawberry” or "Banana” Cactus, or Classen’s Cac¬ 
tus are the most ornamental, both producing shell-pink to deep 
rose-colored flowers in profusion. 

Loveliest of the White Yuccas are the filamentosa (Adams 
Needles) whose bloom stalk grows very tall, having a pyramid of 
white bells drooping from wide-spreading arms. Those which differ 
only by their lower bloom stalks are the Yucca elata, or glauca, 
and the Yucca Arkansas. This group are also locally known as 
"Bear Grass”. The Spanish Dagger (Don Quixote’s Lance or Yucca 
Treculeana) whose bloom stalks are considerably shorter, has wider, 
more sharply-pointed leaves and their habit of growth, instead of 
remaining grass-like near the earth, radiate in a crown from a 
single or branched, palm-like trunk. 

The Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora, or Engelmanni) sends 
up and outward, gracefully curved, arching, bloom stalks whose 
stem in addition to the pendant blossom-bells with golden clap¬ 
pers, is scarlet. Its rush-like rosette of drooping leaves, quite char¬ 
acteristic of Yuccas, have those curling white threads along their 
sword-like sides found on many of the varieties of this family of 
plants. 


Others 
of the 
Cacti 


White 

Yucca 


The Red 
Yucca 


192 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Sotol 


Agaves 


The Sotol, or Dasylirion texanum, grows in a very large rosette 
of long, very slender saw-toothed leaves from which an extremely 
tall, sand-colored flower stalk emerges, ending in a slightly en¬ 
larged spike-head of inconspicuous, creamy-white, tiny flowers 
which attract bees from great distances. This plant is very odd, 
making a striking addition to the planting scheme, particularly 
adaptable to the Spanish-type house. It is peculiarly decorative 
when used judiciously. After the bloom stalk dies, the plant sends 
up several new shoots, that, in turn, die. 

This habit of reproduction is true of many of the desert plants. 
The Agaves, or Century plants (Lecheguilla and americana) which 
have much more fleshy, more upright standing, thicker spiney 
leaves and tall (sometimes twenty feet high) branching flower 
stalks, from which bell-shaped, upward-turned small flower clusters 
that grow out at right angles like opened fans, from the main stem, 
give all their life to the production of this stalk. Its flowers, too, 
are very fragrant and delightful to the bees, yet in the northern 
portion of the Southwest, generally speaking, Agaves or Aloes are 
not hardy—hence they are seldom attempted. Since it usually 
takes from fifteen to twenty years for an Agave to produce a 
flower stalk, the possible reward for nursing a plant through 
inclement weather periods is thought too hazardous. 

On the whole, decidedly the most satisfactory of all the desert 
plants are those that can be secured from reputable commercial 
merchants whose experiments have developed a splendid list of 
desirable specii. 

On a hillside, in a corner, grouped or alone, any and each of 
these desert plants are effective and picturesque. 

Margaret Scruggs. 






















































































. 1 









A FALL GARDEN 

Morning Glories, Chrysanthemums in variety. Marigolds and Alyssum (border) 

A garden carefully planned will produce 
a succession of different color-effects. 



















The Semi-Dry (garden 


Lo make a garden fair there must be water—plenty of 
water. So everyone has always thought. Greedily thirsty 
rare most of the members of the plant world, yet, bend 
low and hear an amazing discovery! An almost dry sum¬ 
mer garden, with a surprising wealth of blossoms, may be yours 
for the making! It matters little whether one has a rocky hillside 
or a bit of level ground, whether the soil is rich, poor, or neutral. 
Even the intensity of the sun has been braved by an in¬ 
credible number of gay, sturdy garden denizens, some of which 
are old favorites, while others can be said to have scarcely shed 
the imprints of the wilds. 

During the great drought of 1930 gardens everywhere suffered. 
It was truly a survival of the fittest among the flowers. Yet an 
astonishing number seemed not to have noticed either the heat, 
or the curtailing of moisture. They continued to blossom, despite 
all adverse conditions. It is true, however, that their Spring root- 
growth was well established by plenty of water some weeks before 
they were called upon to meet the severe test of the Summer. Yet 
it is equally true that the amount of water they received during the 
severe heat of three to four months duration was comparatively 
very little in most cases, and not at all in a few. 

The fern-like foliage and delicate-tinted pinky-orchid flowers 
of the Desert Willow were as unaffected as the Crape Myrtle, 
Althea, Buddlia and Vitex, all of which grow quite as tall. Poin- 
ciana, Parkinsonia, Honey Locust, Senisa, Greasewood, Tamarix 
(salt cedar) and the Sumacs (Rhus) have the additional quali¬ 
fications of being, with the Willow, indigenous to our Southwest. 
Of the good drought-resistant shrubs of medium height and ex¬ 
cellent foliage, but which blossom almost as early in the Spring 

193 


Quantities of 
Water Not 
Always an 
Essential 


Necessary 
in Spring 


Drought- 

Resistant 

Shrubs 


194 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Fall 

Shrubs 


Shrub-like 

Annuals 

and 

Perennials 


as the Red Bud, are the Forsythia, the Spirias, the Syringas, Pome¬ 
granates, and Mulberries. Those of our natives which may be used 
for early-flowering hedges are the many Wild Plums and the Span¬ 
ish Buckeye. The Agarita is our own native Barberry, whose foli¬ 
age and berries make it pleasing used as a specimen plant or 
grouped as a clump for a hedge (though, as with many others of 
the native shrubs, it is not hardy where severe, freezing weather 
must be endured during Winter. (See page 33.) The Salvias carry 
the scarlet and shades of blue throughout the season. Salvia Greggi 
is the perennial sage brush. Salvia splendens is scarlet, while fari- 
nacea and Pitcheri are, respectively, the light and the dark blue 
varieties. 

Artemesia (Dusty Miller) is invaluable as a blending and bind¬ 
ing color-tone for the gay garden. Its grey-green, silvery foliage 
and stems may be dried for winter bouquets, 
being as valuable in this office as is Statice 
though of much more density. It is beautiful 
with the prickly Eryngium ("Blue Thistle”), 
or with the tall plumes of the Liatris (Blazing 
Star) both of which, when dried, retain their 
color for many months. 

Of shrub-height, though grown each year 
from seed, or by division, are 
the tall Cleome, the Coreopsis, 
the Lantana, Four o’Clock, 

Eryngium, Castor bean, various 
Achilleas and Fall Asters, all of 
which, except Four o’Clocks, are 
native and bloom until Fall. 

At least four of our 
native shrubs which 




THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


195 



develop into small trees may be grown readily and quickly from 
seed. And as it happens, these same four very nearly blossom in 
succession. They are Red Bud, Sophora, Mimosa, and Mesquite 
(Acacia Julibrissin). By planting the seed as soon as they are 
matured (in sand deep enough to coax the new little roots down¬ 
ward through it into the layer of well-rotted manure and rich 
earth mixture, that should lie beneath the deep layer of sand), the 
little plants, kept moist and well-shaded, will reach the height of 
eight to ten inches the first season and may be transplanted. By the 
third year they will be nearly four feet high and are usually 
graceful, Japanese-like little shrubs, producing flowers and appear¬ 
ing as fine an ornamental plant as anyone could wish. The foliage 
of each is practically pest-free and differ widely, making a charm¬ 
ing contrast in color and texture. 



Four Native 
Shrubs 
From Seed 

















196 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Semi-Arid 

Plants 


Flowers 
Are Blue- 
Lavender 




Laburnum and Kolkwitzia (Beauty Bush)"* which are not na¬ 
tive to our region, grow well, though probably are not as drought- 
resistant, may also be propagated in the same manner. 

Should one wish to keep these plants of shrub height, their habit 
of growth from the beginning should be encouraged to widen, 
rather than prune for upward tendencies. The Sophora, especially, 
sends several shoots from the original seed. None of these need be 
pinched off, for all will become stout branches. Like the Pussy- 
Willow and Pyrus japonica (Burning Bush), the Red Bud can be 
forced to bloom indoors. So the removal of the superfluous 
branches on the shrubs should be made as soon as the buds begin 
to swell. Place in water and the heat of the house will cause the 
flowers to open much sooner than those out in the open. 

With this wide choice of shrubs for screens and hedges, a varied 
background is amply provided. Against this, the blue Plum¬ 
bago capensis, the dainty Sea-lavender (Statice Latifolia) with the 
deep blue Platycodon bells, combine delightfully with Coreopsis, 
Apache Plume, Snow-on-the-Mountain, Monarda, Jimson-weed 
(Datura), and the large white prickly poppy (Mexican Argemone 
alba), this latter forming an unusually attractive low hedge with 
its spiney leaves and large white flowers. 

All these thrive lustily, for they are natives. The fluffy 
tufts of blue Ageratum, the blue spikes of Veronica, the 
light violet-blue flowers of Nigella and the 
hardy Fall Asters, many of which are native, 
carry the blue-lavender tones into the late Fall, 
blending with the lovely pinky 
tones of the bush Morning 
Glories. 

Gaillardias (Indian Blanket), 
and Rudbeckias (native with 
daisy-like flowers), Thunbergia 
(Black-eyed Susan), Helenium, 
Arctores (African Daisy), An- 
themis (Marguerites), and both 
the English and the Shasta 

* Neither of these is advised for the Dry Garden. 
















THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


197 


daisies, give one white and orange representatives of this family for 
diversification in the semi-dry garden. These are friendly with the 
taller-growing yellow Helianthemums (Sun Rose), the Helianthus 
Maximiliani (and other native Sunflowers), and the orange Heli- 
opsis. The Marigolds, and Lantana (native) have also the same 
intense orange-red tones. 

It seems all the fire-tones (that is, those hues of orange and red, 
varying to the blue-purples of flame) thrive in the heat of the 
sun. The range of colors of those flowering plants that seem un¬ 
affected by scorching weather are similar, too, to those that come 
with the Fall season. The pastel-tones, particularly the shades of 
rose and pink, pale greens, blues, yellows and lavenders, are rare 
compared with the stronger, more vivid tones. 

Zinnias, both short and tall, the Achilleas (Yarrow), and the 
several varieties of Goldenrod (Solidago) contrast in degree, yet 
are most friendly with the more intense orange of the Wall flow¬ 
ers and the native Ascelepias tuberosa (Butterfly Milkweed). The 
brilliant red of Celosia (Cockscomb) must be placed carefully, 
though as an accent it is most valuable; while for variation the 
wide-leafed Mulleins may be used, or Baptisia (False Indigo). 

The exclamation points, one might say, are the Gladioli, which 
bloom well, though are not as tall without water, and the tall spikes 
of the native purple Liatris (Blazing Star), Texas Plume (Gilia 
rubra) and the lovely Lilium speciosum. 

The low White Alyssum and the vari-colored Portulaca are un¬ 
tiring in flowering. Its short bloom-stalks and tendency to develop 
compactly makes the Alyssum an admirable border or rockery 
plant, demanding very little water after the root-growth has 
become well established in the Spring. Portulaca is of more sprawly 
growth and has the advantage of not being restricted to all white 
flowers. It is very gay and makes a charming ground-cover, on a 
hillside or where grass is difficult to grow in any spot that is in 
full sun. It is flatter than the ground Myrtle (Vinca Minor) which, 
however, prefers the semi-shade, Mimosa (or creeping Sensitive- 
plant) with its fluffy, rosy-pink balls or the variety with golden 
yellow balls, and the Passion-flower’s (Passiflora coerula) heaven- 


The Fire 
Tones 


Orange 


Low- 

Growing 

Drought- 

Resistant 

Plants 


198 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Creepers 


Conserva¬ 

tion 

of Moisture 

Methods 

Suggested 


ly-blue stars are contrasting climbers. They will ramble down a 
hillside or up the stems of leggy plants. The Oenotheras* (particu¬ 
larly the large yellow Missouriensis or Evening Primrose) are 
lovely among rocks or clambering over a ledge. Their habitat is 
limestone bluffs of poor soil and their pure gold cups are a delight 
to the eye. The lovely pink variety has been overshadowed by the 
more showy, taller-growing white one. 

Petunias, with a choice of gay colors, when their runners are not 
kept cut back, like to climb over obstacles, just as Verbenas do. 
The gay yellow and orange Thunbergia, that insists on growing up 
a hillside instead of down, and trailing Lantana of such hardy, 
vigorous growth will bloom profusely if the seedpods are kept cut 
to postpone maturing until late Fall. An excellent companion 
for these is the Virginia Creeper (of which there is a native, 
“Texas”, variety) especially where the flowering-creepers need the 
support of the clinging-habit of this vine, or the additional green 
of its profusion of five-fingered leaves. Honeysuckle and the 
coarser-textured Woodbines (orange and scarlet, and yellow 
Trumpet-Creepers) give one further choice of more adventurous 
climbers, which may be trained over a trellis to form a shady 
nook. 

The problem of conservation of moisture for the semi-dry gar¬ 
den may be met in several ways, foremost of which is obviously 
the selection of those plants which have been proved best quali¬ 
fied for drought and heat resistance. Mulching, or cultivating 
these will give the highest degree of satisfaction. In many cases, 
a thorough, slow drenching of the plant once a month, or once 
in every two or three weeks (dependent on the range of the tem¬ 
perature), will be quite sufficient. This moisture may be said to 
be blanketed-in, with a layer of straw-mulching, or grass-clip¬ 
pings (taking care that the grass has not gone to seed when cut) 
or possibly mulched with half-rotted leaf-mold, where this is 
available and of the correct chemical combination for the soil 
over which it will be placed. (See page 8.) If one chooses the 
other method, cultivating, remember it must be frequent. Culti¬ 
vating has its advantages, for only by this method is free circu- 


* Native. 



THE SEMI-DRY GARDEN 


199 


lation of air given the plant-roots; and, where this is a requisite, 
one must cultivate, water, or face the loss of the plant. 

Another item of vital importance to insure success in a semi¬ 
dry garden is—the soil must not be of heavy texture. This may be 
secured by the addition of at least fifty per cent (preferably 
greater) humus (in the form of well-rotted vegetation) leaves, 
cottonseed hulls, straw, or commercial peat-moss, which is sold 
baled. Generally these enumerated plants for a dry garden will 
bloom profusely, but the bushes are more stunted, and the blos¬ 
soms are smaller than where more water is supplied. 

Prepare for the plants as for a cherished, welcome guest. They 
will respond generously, especially if they have been used to the 
climatic conditions and are immune to their intensities. Give them 
nearly the same growing conditions as they had in their habitat, 
with just a little more richness of food, and the reward will far 
exceed expectations. 

Margaret Scruggs. 


Soil 

Texture 

Important 


Ideal 

Hillside 

Garden 


A Natural 

Slope 

Developed 


Kind of 
Stones 
Advised to 
Be Used 



Hillside (gardens 


mass of bloom on a slope or series of terraces 
is the ideal hillside garden, often mistakenly termed Rock 
Garden, for true Rock Gardens in the Orient, notably in 
China, feature the tumbled irregularity and fantastic 
shapes of the rocks themselves, with very little plant- 
growth among them. 

Where one has a natural slope, it may be built up with¬ 
out a great deal of labor, and transformed into a garden of delight 
by terracing it, and confining sufficient good, growing loam for 
various types of plants, through the skillful placing of large or 
medium-sized stones, here and there, with careful carelessness. 
Embed these deep into the hillside with very little surface exposed, 
in order that they may hold the moisture and keep the soil from 
slipping away from the plants. Pack the soil tightly around these 
rocks. Be sure no airpockets are left. The deep spaces between them 
will afford that amount of nourishment required by those plants 
that thrive on slopes. One of the greatest advantages in making a 
Rock Garden, artificially, is the possibility of having many pockets 
of different, friable soil mixtures (acid, neutral, etc.) whose basis 
is topsoil, in which one may experiment with rare, unusual plants. 

Select stones large enough that there may be sufficient space be¬ 
tween them to prevent the soil in the various pockets from inter¬ 
mingling. Varying their sizes gives, also, a more artistic effect, 
just as avoiding the standing on end of many odd-shaped speci¬ 
mens, or the use of rounded, small-sized stones in profusion. The 
general strain of the stratification in which every type of rock is 
found in Nature’s garden appears more realistic when followed in 
transporting them to other locations. Particularly on a hillside, 
the freshly broken surface of a stone should never be exposed. 


200 


HILLSIDE GARDENS 


201 


Where there is a choice of a weathered side, turn it uppermost, for 
it will blend much more naturally into the prevailing tone and 
general composition. 

Remember, a rock pile is not a Rock Garden. 

In designing the slope, certain artificiality may be avoided by 
using curved walks that disappear around a clump of low shrubs, i n f 0 rnaltty 
or winding paths that entice one to explore their length. Straight 
lines or geometrical shapes give that formality which is generally 
undesirable. 

Winding paths and irregular outlines suggest hidden treasures 
around their curves. One may come upon an unexpected dry- 
wall, massed with bloom, the secret of the successful construction 
of which lies largely in tilting or tipping the stones, as they are 
laid in alternate layers of dry earth (composed of two-thirds sandy- Walls 
loam to one-third peat) so tightly packed into the crevices that 
no air-pocket can remain, tilted a bit to let water drain into the 
soil rather than off the wall; and in taking care that the thickness 
of the base is at least one-third the finished, or total height of the 
wall. Such a wall is most useful and effective as a retaining wall for 
the different levels or terraces, especially useful when a pool is 
excavated from level ground. Planted, even overplanted for surer 
life of desired specimens, when in the process of construction, such 
a wall will be a continual joy. 

Of utmost importance, though too often neglected, are those 
little paths that thread the garden, particularly the hillside garden. 

When they are wide enough to insure easy motion, they lure one Paths 
to explore them. When the stuff of which they are made blends in 
color and texture with the general scheme of planting, and with 
the materials of which the building is constructed, they tone in 
as a component part of a perfect unit. There is great diversity both 
in the shades and in the materials, which offer one a wide range 
of choice, from the shiny jet-black of coal; through the duski¬ 
ness of cinders, and certain crushed stones; the blue-greys or tones 
of red-browns in various kinds of stone; the tan of gravel, to 
the clear white of cement. Brick or tile also may be had in prac¬ 
tically any color desired. Cement may be colored, or slate secured in 


202 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Ground 

Covers 


Steps 


Soil- 

Pockets 


dull tones. Yet, wherever possible, the soft, living-green of grass- 
paths is as lovely to walk on as to look at; although the runners 
of our Bermuda are difficult to keep clipped and within bounds. 

In our section, living, non-flowering ground-covers, other than 
grass, generally demand semi-shade, and will not admit of much 
walking-on. Where a light spring-green shade is desired for har¬ 
mony "Creeping Charley” (Nepeta hederacea) or ground ivy 
(known by many other common names)—or the variety known 
as variagata, with its leaves speckled irregularly with white—gives 
a lovely carpet of tiny, rounded leaves. English Ivy’s rich, shiny 
leaves make a distinctly unusual carpet, though it is slow of 
growth, and not so massed. 

Terraces connected by low, never steep, steps—preferably made 
of large, flat stones—lure one by easy stages to the top of the slope. 
Most artistic are stones that are chosen with regard for their tone- 
blend with the predominant color of the soil of the locality in 
which they are to be used. Moss-grown, or practically covered 
with a trailing plant, these stone steps often are the means of ex¬ 
ploiting the vividness and beauty of a plant, rather than being 
themselves too much in evidence. 

In the Southwest, where rocks are more or less foreign, to be 
in keeping with natural conditions the most artistic way to employ 
them is to sink them so deep into the hillside that they serve only 
as retainers of the soil and only very occasionally be allowed to be 
a feature. In planting around them remember proper drainage is 
most necessary. In some cases the soil-pockets should contain a 
layer of four to six inches of cinders, gravel or small pieces of 
stone or brick in the bottom of the hole. Where this is needed, the 
excavation should be at least two feet deep. Sometimes an inch or 
two of coal ashes in an eighteen-inch hole is sufficient. A layer 
of decayed vegetable-matter should be placed between the drain¬ 
age stones and the growing-earth. This top layer should be at 
least twelve inches of equal parts of sand, loam (rich dirt or top¬ 
soil), and leaf-mold. Bonemeal is said to be the best fertilizer to 
use after the plants are established. 

One may make a very effective Rock Garden on level ground 


HILLSIDE GARDENS 


203 


(preferably with an eastern or northern exposure which afford 
most protection) by placing it in a corner with a vine-covered 
fence, or the greenery of massed shrubs as a background. The illu¬ 
sion of its being a portion of a true hillside may thus be cleverly 
simulated. Aesthetic beauty in gardens, as in every other phase 
of life, does not tolerate artificiality, therefore, frame and develop 
a little hillside with the greatest thought and care. 

In general, until one becomes what might be termed an experi¬ 
enced amateur, probably the greater number of gardeners will 
prefer to grow those tested groups of plants which will give the 
surer display of bloom. These may include dwarf bushes and those 
low or creeping plants that have been tested in our climate. It is 
seldom advisable to start Rock Garden plants from seed in the 
pockets. The idea that a Rock Garden or hillside should contain 
only Alpine (snow-level) plants which have developed immunity 
to all the extremes of weather conditions, is being superseded. Each 
locality is adapting the plan of planting slopes with those flowers 
acclimated and suited to its own peculiar requirements, emphasiz¬ 
ing the lowliness of the plants and their diversity of color in foli¬ 
age and blossom, rather than any specific group of varieties. 
Double or variegated flowers are not considered as artistic as large 
clumps of single tones. Simplicity is the keynote. And charm lies 
in the definite note of restraint—most essential in the smaller or 
miniature designs, in which one’s ingenuity is taxed to the fullest. 

One’s hillside may boast many of the smaller bulbs (see page 127) 
for early bloom—among the Alliums, Jonquils, and Dwarf Iris. 
Our native Bluebonnets—(Lupinus texensis), Primroses (Oeno¬ 
theras), Callirhoe (Wine Cups), Pansies, Dogtoothed (Erythroni- 
um) and Wild Violets, and varieties of Astilbe are lovely. Per- 
the most satisfactory plants are the Sedums and Semperviv- 
ums. Low-growing Phlox, Thyme for fragrance, clumps 
of Pinks (Dianthus), white Alyssum, purple 
Teucrium, orange Wallflowers, the dusty foliage 
and fluffy golden balls of Santolina, Tulipas, 
dwarf blue Plumbago, Candytuft, Draba 
(wild Alyssum or Candytuft), Sweet Wil- 



An Arti¬ 
ficial 
Hillside 


Hillside 
Plants to 
Each 
Locality 


Specific 

Hillside 

Plants 

Adapted 

to the 

Southwest 


204 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Unusual 

Effects 


General 
Advice to 
Hillside 
Gardeners 


liam, Daisies, and certain of the Salvias may be varied with climb¬ 
ing and trailing Nasturtiums; California Poppies, Perennial Peas, 
Petunias, Verbenas, Lantanas, or Portulaca. 

Polyantha Roses in some locations, or the native Texas Pixy- 
Rose (Rosa foliolosa), which is very hardy and quite low-growing, 
gives a decidedly different note. The native Penstemon Cobaea 
enjoys both the sun and slope. Certain of the Cacti, Aloes, Agaves 
and Yucca, also, may be used sparingly, for the chief attraction 
of a Rock Garden is the clever combination of ruggedness with 
rustic daintiness. Therefore, creeping plants, those of dwarf height 
and small, even tiny, blossoms should be used. 

Rock gardening is such a new phase in our section that it has 
not yet been tried sufficiently to offer more than these few 
general suggestions for trial. Since in the Southwest the question is 
“not what plants will survive the cold, but Summer’s heat and 
drought, only experience with different genera over a period of 
several years can enable one to say just what will and will not 
prove satisfactory in this respect. Also, it must be constantly re¬ 
membered that there are certain plants and shrubs for Rock Gar¬ 
dens that require a special soil—some acid, others acid of less 
degree, while the greater number revel in lime”—(Mrs. W. H. 
Benners, Dallas). Follow this wise counsel, it is urged, and plan to 
experiment judiciously. 


Margaret Scruggs. 


FEATURE GARDEN 




Where the Sun 



Shines 


o often the question is asked, "What will grow in the 
shade?” that many gardeners must be keenly inter- 
w ested in the answer to this special query. 

< While there are comparatively few plants that 
will bloom in the deep shade, where the sun does 


Semi-Shade 

Loving 

Plants 


not penetrate, yet there are a great many that will 


live only in partial shade. The semi-shade is a gold mine of delight 


for many a Southwestern gardener, especially that spot which re¬ 
ceives approximately three hours, only, of sunlight in the morning, 
for there one may grow successfully certain rare flowers, and also 
many that have been declared unable to be grown in our section. 

Particularly fortunate are those whose soil has been nourished 
by falling oak leaves, which add those necessary chemical quali¬ 
ties that a great group of pi?” 1 ** 

All those cherished, longed 
that have been marked "spe< 
care”, will make this sheltej 
spot a delight—Columbine 
Canterbury Bells, the vari¬ 
ous Erythronium (Dog¬ 
toothed) and Wild Violets, 

Perennial Phlox, Lobelia 


Cardinalis, Foxglove (or 
Digitalis), Hypericum, 


shades, as well as Iris cris- 
tata and Iris pseudacorus, 


those Iris of delicate 



205 




20 6 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


At the Edge 
of the 
Wooded 
Place 


Flowering 
Shrubs 
That Will 
Grow in 
Semi-shade 


Most 

Dependable 
Low Plants 


Gebera, Bleeding Heart and Dutchman’s Breeches (the other va¬ 
riety of Dicentra), Scabiosa and the delicate Spring Beauty (Clay- 
tonia virginiana) . . . Even the lovely Windflower or Japanese 
Anemone, and the other Anemones, and the Hardy Hydrangeas 
have shown their appreciation of such an abiding place, so greatly 
to their liking. 

Where there is a bit more of the morning sun at the edge of a 
woody place, Hemerocallis (or Lemon Lilies) bloom well. Crin- 
ums; the Guernsey or Spider Lily; the Lilium Speciosum, Rubrum 
and Melpomene, and the Lilium Henryi; the red Hybranthus; 
Calla Lilies; Funkias (Hostia, or Plantain Lilies) and Tulips are 
some others of the Bulb and Lily family that enjoy the semi¬ 
shade. Early flowering bulbs, too, will flourish when planted under 
deciduous trees and shrubs, for their blossom-period is gone before 
the leaves mature. 

Of the flowering shrubs, Abelias, the Viburnums, several of 
the Philadelphus, Eleagnus, Jasmines, Spirea, Forsythia, Weigelia 
are some which will blossom well; while Mahonia goes more to 
leaf and the Nandina’s berries are less brilliant than where there 
is more sun. Another interesting fact about those groups of 
plants, of which Nandina and Gaillardias are representative, is 
that contrary to the general belief that sometimes these plants, just 
as a matter of freakishness, develop deeper tones of red than at 
others, there seems to be no question that sandy, acid soil produces 
more gloriously-colored specimens, while clay soils that are highly 
alkaline give the green, with very faint tinges (if any at all) of 
red. 

Coralberries, Hardy Asters, Sedums, Sweet William and Physos- 
tegia virginiana (False Dragonhead) are among the most depend¬ 
able of the lower-growing plants. The Ajuga, or Bugle Weed, 
makes a lovely carpet, yet the Myrtle (Vinca minor) with its 
small blue flowers, and the striped-leaf variety (Vinca minor 
variegata), are perhaps the most dependable low plants. They are 
possibly the most universally grown. Phlox subulata, moss or 
mountain pink, blooms profusely; divaricata is suggested, as no 
definite information has been secured. It is believed it will thrive in 


WHERE THE SUN RARELY SHINES 


207 


neutral to semi-acid soil. Sweet Alyssum, with the Dogtoothed 
Violets and the Hybranthus, are among the few which will flour¬ 
ish in heavy shade. Yet there is another ground cover that is much 
more delicate, known by many names, some of which are Ground 
Ivy, Creeping Charlie, etc. (Nepeta hederacea), which also spreads 
so rapidly that it takes watchful care to keep it within bounds. 

In general one may say that practically all plants that are grown 
in other sections of the country will thrive in the semi-shade in 
the Southwest, if their required soil conditions are supplied. In 
fact, practically all of our plants, even some of the Roses, will give 
better results if shaded from the strong afternoon sun. Yet care 
must be taken to avoid planting under those shrubs and trees that 
have a network of roots near the surface, such as Ligustrums and 
Elms, for these consume the food in the soil, being gross feeders. 

Editors. 


Great 
Variety 
of Choice 


Universal 
Appeal 
of Water 


Charm of 
a Garden 
Enhanced 
by Water 


Plan for 
a Pool 


FEATURE, UARDBM, 

Pools for 'Delight 


m 


'ONG ago the Orientals realized that the green 
garden that so rested their eyes and senses was immeasurably en¬ 
hanced in beauty by the inclusion of water in some manner. 
Dwellers in all semi-arid countries know this deep longing for 
limpid pools and strive to obtain them. So our young civilization 
in the Southwest, having wrested a home from the prairie, is fol¬ 
lowing in the footsteps of past ages in beginning to seek methods 
to secure for themselves this cherished possession, and the attempt 
to overcome and utilize those limitations set by Nature offers a 
most fascinating challenge to them. 

The lure of ever so tiny a bit of water, for reflection if nothing 
more, is always powerful. Everyone loves water, and wherever 
there is a pool, large or small, or a babbling stream, are attracted 
at once to its banks. Even the tiniest, shallow, irregular-shaped bird 
bath that may look like a huge curled waterlily leaf, giving a 
duplicate image of a nodding, scarlet Poppy or a single perfect 
Rose, brings joy to the soul of the beholder. Therefore, to say 
that one’s garden will be infinitely more attractive by the skillful 
inclusion of a pool is true, yet the possibility or probability of being 
able to do so may be questioned. 

Anyone may have a pool. This is a broad statement, yet on most 
peoples’ property there is a spot where a tub may be sunk, or a 
small excavation be made and lined, waterproof. On a city lot, 
averaging 50x150 feet, if one assigns no more than 15x20 feet 
to the garden spot, a corner, an end or the center of this may be 
dug for a pool. Even the ice-box drip may be converted into an 
economical pool! On this limited, perhaps the smallest, space one 


208 


POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


209 


may assign to a comprehensive garden, there are almost unlimited 
possibilities for a great variety of plants, and a succession of bloom 
over which to rejoice. 

Sometimes there is too shady a spot, under trees, along a wall or 
beside the house, to grow grass or most plants. Dig this spot 
out, it is suggested, with irregular outlines. Vary the slope of the 
sides of it toward a three-foot depth. Then prepare cement and 
sand, and pour in a layer of two to three inches thick. Mould it to 
the lines or contours desired, and lay in a piece of wire-netting 
(or some other reinforcing, tying material), and pour on two to 
three inches more of concrete; in which one may embed, while 
soft, boulders or field-stones, the better to simulate nature in pre¬ 
paring an informal pool. 

Let this “set” for three or four days. Then fill with water, and 
allow it to remain for several days. After this, drain off all the 
water (because there is generally something in fresh cement chemi¬ 
cally bad for both fish and plants which the first filling and stand 
of water carries all off in it). It may then be safely filled for use. 

If one wishes to grow aquatic plants, soil must be prepared 
(see page 210) for them. The general proportion for this is one 
part of well-rotted cow-manure. If the plants are to be grown 
directly in the pool (not in pots or tubs), put in six inches of 
manure at the bottom, then a layer of six inches of topsoil. Plant 
the bulbs directly in this and cover with four to six inches of 
sand, or fine gravel, to keep that transparency in the water neces¬ 
sary to enable one to see the darting fish, which are so essential 
aside from their beauty, for they feed on mosquito larvae. 

In preparing the pool, if one has a tiny one, it may be refilled 
and drained with the garden hose. But, if it is somewhat larger, 
it is wisest to provide a drain-pipe within the concrete bed, by 
which the water may escape. This method of drainage may be of 
the simplest—by allowing it to enter the sewerage directly; or it 
may be converted by pipes to be utilized in watering certain other 
parts of the garden; or, what may be most elaborate, a series of 
overflowing, shallow pools may be arranged, terraced one a bit 
above the other with the lowest spilling over to create a marsh, or 


Details of 
Construction 


Special 
Treatment 
of Fish or 
Plants Used 


Soil Prep¬ 
aration for 
Aquatic 
Plants 


Suggestions 

For 

Drainage 


210 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Place Where 
Least 

Evaporation 


Shady 
Pools are 
Mirrors 


Semi-shade 

Planting 


Keep to 
Scale in 
General 
Scheme 


Eor 

Informality 


bog. This is especially adapted to some grounds, though in growing 
aquatic plants, it is usually best to avoid running water. 

Generally speaking, however, our water is too precious to admit 
of this extravagant use. To have a single, simple pool is the goal of 
our desires, for a basin of water lends more to the garden than any 
one other thing. Yet with our copper hot summer skies, one is 
wise to place it where it will suffer least from evaporation. 

In a shaded or semi-shaded spot Waterlilies, however, usually 
will not flourish, though Water-Hyacinths may, or Cat-tails and 
other non-flowering aquatics. Be content, generally, to have a very 
shady pool merely be a mirror, with darting gold-fish for color; 
and, if you are not going to grow aquatic plants in it, put only a 
layer of gravel on the bed of it. This will make it seem more 
like Nature’s handiwork than man’s. 

There are many blooming plants that do well in shade, or semi¬ 
shade ( see page 206), which, if placed to overhang, or at a point 
where their image may be reflected, at once become an integral part 
of an exquisite composition. Pools that mirror green things, only, 
are restful, yet those that reflect other colors, too, in pastel or in 
vivid shades, have an irresistible charm. 

In designing that feast for one’s senses, the pool, it is of greatest 
inportance to keep it to scale with the property and buildings. Do 
not forget how essential is proportion. It, too, should conform to 
the general plan and follow the broad scheme of planting in rela¬ 
tion to the architecture of the buildings. It too should emphasize 
formality or informality of design by its shape, size, and setting. 

Where informality is desired, always place the pool where it is 
screened and secluded, never in the center of the garden. Its most 
effective combination is at the foot of a slope, a hillside, or 
beneath an overhanging ledge. When one has level ground to deal 
with, artificial slopes and ledges, even a miniature rugged hillside 
(see page 200) may be effected by adding a few stones and a 
little more earth to that surplus dirt taken from the excavation of 
the pool. Irregularity of outline, both in the contour of the pool 
and in the borders of shrubs and flowers, demonstrate that level 
ground and straight lines never make as interesting an informal 


POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


211 


garden as undulating irregularity, even in a comparatively small 
area. 

A natural, or man-made rocky ledge, or barren slope, is the 
ideal spot on which to use one’s imagination in an effort to capture 
that holiday spirit of Nature—alluring informality. Trailing vines 
overhanging a pool are always enchanting. Blue or rose Morning- 
glories, or Golden Oenotheras (Evening Primrose) grown from the 
ledge above, droop in panicles of green, studded with color. 

As has often been observed invariably a pool draws one to its 
very edge in the hopes of being able to peep over and down into 
the limpid depths. So, where the reflection is loveliest, what fun 
it is to be able to step out over the water on a large, flat stone! 
From this natural vantage point, one can enjoy to the fullest the 
beauty of the scene. How clever is that artist-gardener who, with 
skillful artifice, reproduces all those chief attractions that one 
finds in Nature’s scenic loveliness! 

What is more graceful than a weeping willow dipping into a 
sheltered pool! Or what exotic beauty more appealing than the 
waxen perfection of a Water Lily! 

Yet Water Lilies must have an abundance of sunlight ... at least 
four or five hours of the direct rays upon them, preferably in the 
middle of the day. Of these there are two kinds, the hardy and 
the tropical. The hardy kinds do not have to be disturbed after the 
original planting oftener than every five or six years, just to thin 
out their too luxuriant root-growth, provided care is taken that 
their roots do not freeze in severe weather. A covering of eight or 
ten inches of water above the surface of the soil, generally gives 
them sufficient protection. Although in extreme conditions a top¬ 
covering of boughs and leaves, held down with wire netting, may 
be loosely put over planks that have been put across the pool, 
taking care that the oxygen of the circulating air is not cut off. 

As oak leaves often contain an acid and tannin bad for aquatic 
plants, it is best never to cover with these. Also see that none of 
these are ever allowed to remain in the water. 

Tropical Lilies are natives of the hot countries—Africa, South 
America and Australia—where they grow in profusion. They are 


Over¬ 

hanging 

Ledges 


Naturalistic 

Effects 


Water 

Lilies 


Care in 
Winter 


Remove 
Oak Leaves 


212 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Tropical 
Water Lilies 


The Two 

Chief 

Varieties 



generally too delicate to survive even our mildest winters, and 
not being expensive, are too much trouble to attempt to keep, 
unless one has a very large indoor pool. Even then, it is usually 
more satisfactory to purchase new young plants rather than try 
to handle the mature old ones. Their spread is slightly greater 
than the hardy varieties (which require a radius of at least three 
feet of space for each plant). They are so lovely, standing several 
inches above the water on their stiff stalks, it would be a decided 
deprivation not to plan to include at least one in every water- 
garden. Their range of colors are exquisite—blues, pinks, white, 
reds and yellows, of wider choice than the hardy varieties, although 
these latter include all colors except blue. 

Where the temperature is about 80 degrees Fahrenheit and there 
is full sunshine, the day-blooming tropical Water Lilies remain 
open between seven in the morning and five or six in the after¬ 
noon, while the rarer night-bloomers open about eight in the 
evening, remaining lovely until the middle of the following morn¬ 
ing. When it is cloudy, or cooler and grey, often these two varie¬ 
ties reverse their usual habits. It is intensely interesting to note that 
both the temperature and the amount of sunlight have such defi¬ 
nite, material effects on these more tender Lilies. 

The initial planting of all Water Lilies may be made directly 
into the pool, when one has placed on the floor of it the layers of 
earth to receive them, leaving at least twelve to fourteen inches 
of water above the soil, which in turn should have a depth of 
at least sixteen to eighteen inches. Or they may be put in large 
earthen pots or wooden tubs, usually two to three feet in diame¬ 
ter, planted under xvater (not outside and submerged after¬ 
ward) , and sunk into gravel to hide the containers. 

This latter process enables one to transplant or divide them, 
especially when the pool is large, easier than when not thus re¬ 
stricted. In dividing roots, there are two types of growth; one, 

like bulbs, forms into 
multiple “crowns” 
(which can be pulled 
apart); the other sends 











POOLS FOR DELIGHT 


213 


out runners or creeping root-stalks, which should be severed by a 
slanting, clean cut. If the Lilies seem to produce fewer flowers than 
expected, often the reason is they are planted too deep, or there is 
too much nitrogen in the soil. They should be planted with the 
"crowns” just below the surface of the soil. 

If one wishes to grow several types of aquatics in and around 
the pool, the habits of each of these plants should be carefully con¬ 
sidered, for some like full sun, some require semi-shade, and each 
likes a particular depth of water above its roots. In fashioning the 
pool, this latter requirement may be provided for by the contour 
of the slope of the sides being formed into steps. Sometimes a large, 
flat-topped stone makes an ideal, natural step, on which to place the 
wooden container in which the plant is to grow (for the use of 
metal, particularly copper, is never advised in a pool, because of 
the chemical reactions). Smaller stones encircling the container 
give a further appearance of naturalness. 

Informal pools admit of an infinite number of varying meth¬ 
ods of treatment. In direct contrast, garden pools adjacent to cer¬ 
tain architectural styles of buildings are required to have geometri¬ 
cal, formal outlines. Rectangular, eliptic, oval, round, triangular, 
in fact any precise, mathematically correct shape should be used 
in connection with such special types of dwellings as a Spanish 
patio, an Italian villa, a French chateau or an English manor house. 
A suggested proportion for a rectangular pool is one whose width 
is two-thirds its length. This placed on the lowest level of the 
grounds (always the ideal place for water) may have a "Prim¬ 
rose path” leading down to it, or it may be near the end of a 
shrub-bordered expanse of lawn, broken by the regular lines of a 
few, effectively featured, specimen plants. 

The most artistic selection possible for the pool is in a semi- 
secluded green spot, giving one a thrill of delight on the unex¬ 
pected discovery of it. The gleam of the white, birch-like bark of 
the sycamore and some of the cottonwoods against the deep green 
of cedars lures one toward the spot where their mirrored image 
shows doubly beautiful in the waters of the pool. Reflections of 
green rather than the harsher lines of buildings are always much 


Other Types 
of Aquatic 
Plants 


Contour and 
Design of 
Pools 


The Most 
Appropriate 
Setting for 
a Pool 


214 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


more pleasing. Variabilities of texture, height and shape of shrubs 
and trees, relieved by contrasts of well-placed color-tones, give one 
continual joy. This—the appropriate setting for a pool—enables 
it to fulfill its greatest possibilities. 


Margaret Scruggs. 


Combating Plant Enemies 

ur gardens’ ultimate success does not depend 
entirely on the selection of the plant material 
best suited to the locality, nor even the prepa¬ 
ration of the soil, but largely on the ability 
to recognize the danger when plants first 
show signs of being "sick”, to be familiar with the symptoms and 
to be ready to apply first aid with the necessary remedies. 

There are several distinct causes for the drooping of the leaves 
or for their slow turning from the living green to the sere yellow 
which foretells ultimate destruction of the plant, such as the 
dreaded mildew and other fungus diseases. Yet, often the real 
trouble is caused by some type of insect. When one has learned to 
recognize that effect which is caused by those insects that suck 
the very life from the leaves and stems, and the one caused by that 
group that chew the foliage to destroy it, and has become familiar 
with the remedies to be applied for each distinct kind of trouble, 
the battle is half won. 

Then there are also a number of large bugs and worms that must 
be dealt with in a different manner. Some can only be killed with 
poisoned bait, while more often cut-worms must be located and 
dug from the ground where they have hidden after a night of 
feasting. 

The mildew and other fungus diseases seem to be caused largely 
by climatic conditions. It is very much better to use preventive 
measures than to wait until the plants become affected where one 
has reason to believe the disease will occur. 

This type of trouble reaches the plant from outside contact by 
means of bacteria and spores. These quickly spread over the entire 



Study Plant 
Enemies and 
Remedies 


Learn to 
Recognize 
Causes of 
Trouble 


Pests are 
Varied 


Some 

Diseases 

Are 

Prevent¬ 

able 


Method of 
Combat 


215 


216 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Chewing 

Insects 


Sucking 

Insects 


When to 
Spray 


Scaly 

Insects 


plant after reaching some part of it. To combat this, the entire sur¬ 
face of the leaves and stems must be covered with some material 
that destroys the disease. Sulphur , in some form, is considered the 
most effective remedy, in solution or as a dusting powder. Massey 
Dust , which can be prepared at home, is extensively used. Bordeaux 
Mixture is often advised, but it has the objectionable quality of 
discoloring the foliage. 

The chewing insects can only be killed by covering the plants 
with poison, for it is swallowed as they eat the foliage. Caterpillars 
and bugs are the greatest offenders of this class. The mixtures that 
contain arsenate of lead and Paris Green are most commonly used. 

The sucking insects cannot be reached by stomach poisons, yet 
there are a number of materials that kill by direct contact. Nico¬ 
tine (tobacco) is the one most generally used. When it covers the 
soft-bodied insects, like plant lice (Aphis), it is absorbed and 
causes death almost immediately. The simplest method is to use 
Black Leaf 40, diluted, or combined with other materials. 

One cannot use this until the pests appear, yet an early applica¬ 
tion after they have been discovered gains control of the situation. 

When the bodies of the insects are not soft and the Nicotine 
cannot penetrate, then an oil spray, or soap and oil, must be used to 
completely smother them, for they breathe through pores. Direct 
contact with each insect is required to entirely destroy them, 
therefore, it is safer to spray once a week for several weeks. 


COMBATING PLANT ENEMIES 


217 



The following suggestions are given for a few of the commoner 
forms of diseases and pests which annoy the home gardener: 


In applying the remedies, be sure to get under the foliage as well as on 
top. 

Ingredients for a spray should be thoroughly mixed in a separate con¬ 
tainer before being placed in the sprayer. 

Cleanliness in the garden, including the removal of weeds, leaves, dead 
flowers and other trash, deprives insects of any easy place in which to lay 
eggs. 

Preventive measures for all plant diseases and insect pests mean early 
spraying or dusting and poison-baiting. 

Always dust plants when wind is not blowing, preferably late in the 
afternoon. 


ROSES 

Remedy. Qua-Sul (2 tablespoonsful to one gallon water.) 

Roses should be sprayed at least three times during the dormant season 
(January and February). The last spraying should come just as the new 
leaves begin to appear. 

Porno Green. (Also known as Massey Dust.) 

Use a duster that gets underneath the leaves and dust the bush lightly. 
Apply all during the growing season. 

Dissolve one tablespoonful of Fish Oil Soap in a little hot water and 
add to solution of two tablespoonsful of Black Leaf 40 to three gallons 
of water. Proportions may be doubled if pests are bad. (For further infor¬ 
mation, see Rose article.) 


Mildew 


Black-Spot 


Aphis 


218 


GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 


Scale 

Red Spider 

Bag 

Worms 

Red Spider 
Mildew 

Plant Lice 
Mealy Bugs 

Rust 


EUONYMUS 

For the West India Scale, or White Peach Scale which attacks this hardy 
shrub, use one pound of Fish Oil Soap to four and one-half gallons of 
water. As a preventive, spray plants in the Fall to kill the larvae. 

CEDARS 

For Red Spider use dry lime of sulphur, two tablespoonsful to one 
gallon of water, or Qua-Sul, two tablespoonsful to one gallon of water. 

Sheps Spray or Arsenate of Lead. Two tablespoonsful to one gallon of 
water. 


VIOLETS 

Qua-Sul, two tablespoonsful to one gallon of water. 

VERBENAS 

Qua-Sul, two tablespoonsful to one gallon of water. 

LARKSPUR AND CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Sheps Spray. 


SNAPDRAGON 

Qua-Sul or Bordeaux Mixture, or other nicotine extract. 

Any Nicotine or Arsenate powder is effective for chewing in¬ 
sects. Snarol placed on the ground around tender plants will poison 
cutworms, pill or sow bugs and caterpillars. 

Dorothy D. Walker 



COMBATING PLANT ENEMIES 


219 


FORMULAS FOR SPRAYS 
(Secured from magazines and Government Bulletins) 


MILDEW 

Massey Dust . . . dust dry. 

9 parts dusting sulphur 
1 part arsenate of lead 

Pomo green is Massey dust colored 
green, that it may not disfigure the foli¬ 
age. 

Fungtrogen. 

A highly concentrated fungicide. 
Should be sprayed on Roses and other 
plants affected with mildew. Will control 
Blackspot; prevents rot, and eliminates 
Rust—on Hollyhocks especially. 

Mildew Control—Spray. 

1 ounce of Bicarbonate of Soda 
1 gallon of water 

and if troubled with aphis also, add 1 
tablespoonful of household ammonia to 
the spray. 

August Mildew. 

On Crape Myrtle and other plants— 
use potassium sulphide freely as a spray. 

Rust on Phlox, Columbine, 

Snapdragon. 

Dust with superfine dusting sulphur— 
or spray with: 

1 ounce potassium sulphide 

2 gallons of water 

Mildew or Rust on Snapdragon. 

Avoid water on foliage. Water in 
mornings; never after sundown, because 
of dew. 

cfc> cfc) cfc 

ROOT-ROT 

Iris Root-rot. 

(a) This, the one dreaded disease of 
Iris, dig up, remove soft parts, and wash 
with a solution of potassium permangan¬ 
ate. (See Mr. Dykes book on Iris.) 

(b) If discovered in early stages, with¬ 
out digging up cut away soft parts, ex¬ 
pose to sun, spray both Iris and ground 
with one tablet corrosive sublimate in one 
pint of water and allow to become very 
dry. 


BLIGHT 

Lily Blight Control. 

(Especially Candidum, Auratum and 
Tigrinum Lilies.) 

Spray with: 

1 ounce of liver sulphide 
or sulphide of potassium 

3 gallons of water 

in which a little soft soap is mixed to 
make the poison adhere to the foliage. 

Bulb Blight Control. 

Dip all bulbs that have been exposed 
to blight, especially Gladioli, in formalde¬ 
hyde before planting, and place a few 
pieces of peat in the hole underneath 
them, taking care to surround the bulb 
with about an inch layer of sand. 

Dahlia Blight Control. 

Spray with nicotine when the leaves 
begin to curl (in July) every ten days to 
two weeks until the blooms come. 

C$3 cfe C$3 

NEUTRAL SOIL 

Soil may be made neutral by adding to 
1 bale of peatmoss 
5 pounds of lime 

or, for Roses, an application of epsom 
salts once or twice a year is efficacious. 

& cfc c$3 

MORE BLOSSOMS 

To produce more blossoms, scatter ni¬ 
trate of soda around the plants and water 
in. 

cfc cfc> cb 

MORE BRILLIANT COLOR 

To intensify color, especially the yel¬ 
lows of Roses, water the plant with: 

1 ounce nitrate of iron 

2 gallons of water 

Nitrate of iron is better than nitrate 
of soda. 


220 GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 

FORMULAS FOR SPRAYS —Continued 


ANTS 

In Flower Beds. 

Water in which potato skins have been 
boiled (let stand twenty-four hours), 
poured in and over ant hills will destroy 
ants. Also, with extreme care, kerosene 
emulsion poured down the nest, or one 
heaping tablespoonful of disulphide car¬ 
bon put into the hole and closed in quick¬ 
ly at once by pressing earth into the open¬ 
ing with the foot, is effective. Thin rings 
of asphaltum paint surrounding the hill 
will catch and destroy all ants going in 
or out. 

In Greenhouse, or Out-of-doors. 

Scatter over dry earth: 

1 teaspoonful powdered borax 

2 teaspoonsful powdered sugar 

Crush fine and mix well. 

Ants and Sow-bugs. 

Mix well and scatter: 

2 parts insect powder 
1 part powdered borax 

cfc do C$D 

POISON BAIT 

For Pill-bugs, Sow-bugs and Cut-worms 

A Crumbly, Sweetened Poison. 

5 pounds of bran 
1 pint of heavy molasses 

Mix with: 

1 quart of water 
4 ounces of Paris Green 

This mixture should be moistened 
thoroughly with the molasses and water, 
but not be dough-like. It should fall 
apart when pressed in the hands. Some 
authorities add the juice and grated rind 
of a lemon to the above. Others claim 
that orange juice attracts some type of 
bugs particularly. 

This mixture should stand for several 
hours until the bran absorbs the poison. 
As it is more effective if slightly damp, it 
should be put out after the yard has 
been watered, or after a rain, in the late 
afternoon. Place it under low foliage, or 
under pieces of wood, or under flower 
pots. 


Great care should be taken to cover the 
mixture so that the birds and animals 
cannot get it. It should be carefully col¬ 
lected, and buried deep in the ground 
after it has gotten hard. 

Another warning: remember that when 
arsenical poisoning is used, if it reaches 
many of the tender, young plants their 
roots will take up the poison and be 
harmed. 

do c|o do 

POISON BAIT 

Pill-bugs, Sow-bugs and Cutworms. 

9 parts sugar 
1 part calcium arsenate 

Use as above, and always place under 
some object, where birds and animals will 
not be able to get at it. It is effective 
spread on potato peelings. 

Pill-bugs, Sow-bugs, Cutworms, Snails. 

A half rind of orange or grapefruit, 
inverted, often serves as an effective trap 
for pill-bugs, sow-bugs, cutworms and 
snails, which may then be gathered up 
and destroyed by dropping them into a 
bucket of boiling water, or water with 
kerosene in it. 

ck & cfc 

INSECTS AND SCALE 

Massey Dust and Tobacco . . . dust dry. 

For chewing insects and mildew. 

9 parts dusting sulphur 
1 part lead arsenate 
1 part tobacco dust. 

Red Spider. 

Spray with nicotine and soap solutions, 
if the strong spray from the hose does not 
destroy them. They particularly dislike 
water, and moist conditions. Dusting sul¬ 
phur is also advised. 

Slugs. 

Slugs can usually be detected by the 
slimy trail they leave behind them as 
they move about the garden. They often 
cause much of the trouble attributed to 
sow-bugs. Happily, the same poison-mash 
can be used for both. 


COMBATING PLANT ENEMIES 


221 


FORMULAS FOR SPRAYS —Continued 


Aphis on Chrysanthemums. 

Spray with quassia-chip water, or with: 

1 wineglassful paraffin 

*4 pound soft soap 

2 gallons warm water 

(well mixed) 

Or use tobacco powder, blown on dry 
for red, green or black Aphis. 

Aphis or Thrip. 

For Chrysanthemums, Salvia, Roses, 
Nasturtiums, etc. 

1 heaping tablespoonful of soap 
1 gallon of water 
One-third ounce of nicotine. 

Dissolve the soap in the water after it 
reaches the boiling point, then add the 
nicotine, stirring vigorously. Spray plants 
after the mixture becomes cold; or dip 
the affected parts into the mixture if very 
thickly covered. 

Scale Insects. 

These should be attacked when plants 
are dormant. 

“Arsenate of lead is superior to Paris 
Green, as it does not settle so quickly in 
the spray-tank, is much more adhesive to 
the foliage, and does not burn the plants.” 
— (By permission of the Texas Agricul¬ 
tural Experimental Station. Bulletin No. 
187.) 

Scale on Cacti. 

“The customary instructions to wash 
scales from plants cannot apply to spiney 
cactus-plants; therefore other methods 
must be used. Spray with: 

1 pint of denatured alcohol 
54 pint of water 
10 drops of Black Leaf 40 

“A cheap atomizer is very handy for 
spraying the plants. After one or two ap¬ 
plications of this mixture have been made, 
a few days apart, use a forceful, fine 
spray of clear water to wash off the dead 
scales.”—(Courtesy of Desert Magazine; 
recommended by E. E. Davis.) 

For stink-bugs on cacti, see page 189. 


Scale on Magnolias and Other Shrubs. 

Spray freely with: 

2 tablesponsful lime sulhpur 

1 gallon of water 

Kerosene Emulsion. 

Kerosene emulsion has been found most 
effective in ridding Opuntia of stink bug. 
It can be used for other large bugs that 
have gathered on trees, or among trash, or 
to kill scale. This is advised during the 
dormant season. It will prove dangerous 
for delicate foliage. It can be used to con¬ 
trol all sucking insects. 

STOCK 

54 pound whale oil (preferably) soap 

1 gallon water 

2 gallons kerosene 

SMALLER QUANTITIES 

1 ounce soap 

1 pint water 

2 pints kerosene 

Cut the soap into chips or shavings and 
dissolve in the water, while it is boiling. 
Remove the hot solution from the fire and 
add the kerosene very slowly, stirring 
constantly. It is important to have the 
solution hot, as well as to agitate it thor¬ 
oughly, while adding the kerosene. After 
all the kerosene has been added, pump the 
emulsion through the nozzle for several 
minutes back into a suitable container. 
This will make a creamy emulsion that 
may be kept tightly bottled until ready 
to use. 

On trees or plants that are dormant, 
dilute this with five or seven parts of 
water, forming a spray containing eight 
to eleven per cent of oil. On trees or 
plants that are in leaf, one should dilute 
the stock solution with ten to fifteen 
parts of water. Soft-bodied insects are 
usually killed with a five per cent solu¬ 
tion . . . 12 54 parts of water to one part 
of emulsion—this is the strength to use 
on Cacti. 

Kerosene emulsion should be applied 
on bright, sunny days when the wind is 
not blowing, since a considerable quan¬ 
tity will evaporate quickly and the danger 
to the plants will be reduced. 



222 GARDENING IN THE SOUTHWEST 

For valuable information on the control of pests, and remedies 
for plants, trees, etc., secure Texas Agricultural Bulletin No. 187, 
and U. S. Farmers Bulletin No. 1495, remembering that the exact 
amount of money (stamps not accepted) MUST accompany all 
requests for bulletins where a sum is charged. 

The great value of attracting the birds other than for their 
beauty of song and flashing colors, cannot be over-estimated—their 
invaluable destruction of worms and other pests on trees, shrubs 
and other plants. 

The three essentials to attract them are to provide adequate 
water, safety from cats and small boys’ guns, and food. This latter 
is secured largely by planting berry-bearing bushes—Mulberries 
are considered by them most delectable—and the weeping tree is 
not as wide in its root-spread as the other varieties. The Virginia 
Creeper and the Blue Cedar berries are equally relished, while the 
Haws, both black and red, vie with them in popularity. The fruit 
of the Hedgehog Cactus, one of the Echinocactus family, is greatly 
enjoyed by them also. 

Editors. 





BIBLIOGRAPHY 

We are indebted and give thanks to the authors of the following 
books that have been used to verify much of the material that has been 
presented— 

Gray’s Botany. 

Bailey’s Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture. 

Curtis’ Botanical Magazine. 

Schulz “Texas Wild Flowers”. 

Fletcher, “Soil”. 

United States and States’ Department of Agriculture, Bulletins and 
other publications. 

As several most valuable books have been written, giving detailed in¬ 
formation on certain types of plants, used for special localities, no effort 
has been made to duplicate the information they contain, especially— 

Ellen D. Schulz’s Cactus Culture, Orange Judd, New York, and 

The Garden Book for Houston, both of which present such adequate, 
specific data on the cultivation of plants in Southwestern Texas. 

Detailed information regarding Garden Clubs, their organization, by¬ 
laws, subjects for programs, flower shows and various items of interest 
can be secured from— 

A Garden Manual, by Mrs. Frederick Fisher. (The Macmillan Co.,N.Y.) 

A Garden Handbook, by Fae Huttenlocker. (Meredith, Des Moines, 
Iowa.) 

Garden Clubs, by Florence C. Speller. (Hohawk Press, N. Y.) 


223 


INDEX 


Abelia, 29, 31, 79, 178, 206 
Acacia, 24, 31, 32 

Farnesiana, Huisache, 3 3 
Julibrissinin, Mesquite, 195 
Achillea, 78, 197 

filipendula, 41, 43; millefolium, 41, 43, 
187, 194 

Adenophora, Ladybell, 41, 43 
(Potanini) 

Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile), 119 
Agarita, see Berberis 
Ageratum, 31, 42, 43, 57, 77, 183, 196 
(Eupatorium) 

Agaves, 189, 192, 204 
(Century Plant) 

Algerita, 32 

Allium, varieties, 63, 111 
Aloes, 33 

Altheas, 24, 31, 32, 78, 193 
Alyssum (Sweet) 42, 57, 77, 79, 180, 207 
Amaryllis, 78; Culture, 128 
Amazon (Eucharis) Lily, 119 
Ampelopsis heptaphylla, 62 
Amelanchier, canadensis, Shad Bush, 31 
Amsonia, 67 
Anchusa, 41-43 
Androstephium caeruleum, 63 
(Wild Hyacinth) 

Anemone, illus., 67 

Japonica (Wind Flower), 43, 97, 206 
St. Bridges, 108 
decapitala, 63, 70 
Anisacanthus, 24, 26, 32, 33 
Annuals 

Directions for planting, 42, 5 5 
Antignon leptocarpus, 59, 61, 78, 97, 179, 
183 

Queen’s Wreath, Coral Vine 
Mexican Love Vine 
Anthemis, tinctoria, 43, 196 
Golden Marguerites 
Apache Plume, 31, 81 
Aquilegia, 43, 76, 181, 205 
Aquatic Plants, 209 to 212 
Arbor Vitae, 24, 25, 28, 31, 32, 178 
Arctotis, 42, 194 
African Daisy 


Argemone Alba, 70, 196 
Prickly Poppy 
Artemesia, 3 3, 44, 186, 194 
Dusty Miller 

Asclepias tuberosa, 43, 70, 187, 197 
Butterfly Weed, illus., 187 
Asters, 42, 43, 56, 77, 97, 183, 194, 206 
Michaelmas Daisies 
Azaleas, 2 3,31 

Bamboo, 84 
Banana, 32 

Baby’s Breath, see Gypsophila 
Baptisia, australis, 34, 41, 43, 193, 197 
False Indigo 
Balloon Vine, 60, 62 
Balsam Apple, 60, 61 
Beauty Berry, see Callicarpa 
Benners, Mrs. W. H., Quoted, 106, 204 
Berberis, 24, 78 

trifoliata (Agarita), 3 3, 67, 194 
Betony, 63 

Bird of Paradise, see Poinciana 
Bignonia, 62, 179 
Trumpet Vine 

Black Haw, 177, 178; Swamp, 32 
Bluebonnet, see Lupinus 
Blueberry, 53 

Blue Thistle, see Eryngium 
Bleeding Heart, see Dicentra 
Bois d’Arc, 32, 34 
Osage Orange 
Mock Orange 
Boltonia 

asteroides, 43, 70 
Bougainvillea, 84 
Box, 32 

Bridwell, W. A., Quoted, 66 
Bridal Wreath, see Spirea 
Broom, see Genista 
Buckeye, 32 

Buddleia, 24, 26, 31, 32, 193 
Butterfly Bush 
Buckthorn, 3 1 
Bush Clover, see Lepedeza 
Bush Morning Glories, see Ipomoea 
Button Bush, see Cephalanthus 


224 


INDEX 


225 


Butterfly Runner Bean, 61 
Butterfly Weed, see Asclepias 

Cactus, 189, 190, 191 
Opuntia, 76, 189 
New Mexico State Flower, illus., 1 
Calendula, 56, 77, 96 
California Poppies, see Eschscholzia 
Callicarpa 

purpurea, Beauty Bush, 26, 31, 32, 3 3 
Americana, French Mulberry, 31 
Calliopsis, see Coreopsis 
Callirhoe 

involcurata, Wine Cup, 70, 203 
pedata, Poppy Mallow, 63, 66 
Camellia, 53 

Camassia, 41, 63, illus., 67 
Campanula, Canterbury Bells, 43, 41 
persicifolia, 44 

Candytuft, 42, 57, 79, 81, 83, 203 
Canarybird Vine, 60, 61 
Canterbury Bells, Wild, see Penstemon 
Cape Jasmine, 3 1 
Caragana, Pea Tree, 31 
Cardinal Climber, 61 
Cardinal Flower, see Lobelia 
Carnation, 43 

Caryopteris, Blue Spirea, 31 
Cassia 

floribunda, 26; roemeriana, Senna, 76, 187 
Castor Bean, 187 
Catnip, English, see Nepeta 
Cedrus, Deodara, 32, 178 
Cedars, 24 

Centaurea, Bachelor Button, 42, 77, 182 
montana, 43, 5 5, 182 
americana, Basket Flower, 70 
imperialis, Giant Sweet Sultan, 182 
Cephalanthus, Button Bush or Button Wil¬ 
low, 34 
Cercis 

canadensis, Red Bud, 26, 28, 31, 32, 35, 
85, 177, 194, 195 
Chaparral, 29 

Cherianthus Allionii, 41, 43 
Cherry Laurel, 3 1 
Chinese Forget-me-not, 5 5 
(Cynoglossum) 

Chionanthus, Fringe Tree, 31, 32 
China Berry Tree, see Melia 
Chrysanthemums, 42, 43, 48 to 52, 97, 183 
maximum, Shaster Daisy, 43 
Clematis, 59, 62, 77, 157, 197, 182 
Clarkia, 58 
Clatonia, virginica, 63 
Cleome, 57, 78, 194 
Clove Pinks, see Dianthus 


Climatic variations, 1, 2, 19, 22, 164, 176 
Citrus, trifoliata, 29 

Cockscomb (Celosia), 42, 59, 77, 183, 197 
Cobaea scandens, 60 
Columbine, see Aquilegia 
Coral Bean, 60, 62 

Coral Berry, Indian Currant, 31, 32, 178, 
183, 206 

Coreopsis, 41, 43, 56, 65 
grandiflora, 71, 194 
tintoria (Calliopsis), 71 
Cold Frames, 41, 95 
Cornflowers, see Centaurea 
Cornus, Dogwood, 31, 32, 34 
Coronarius, 24 
Cosmos, 56, 79, 183 
Klondike, 42, 57, 84 
Cotoneaster, 24, 27, 31, 32 

horizontalis, 27; pannosa, 28; franchet- 
ti, 28 

Crataegus, Hawthorn, 29 

Mackensenii, 31; Crus-galli, 31, 33 
Crape Myrtle, 2 5, 29, 32, 78, 177, 193 
Crocker, Mrs. Persis, Quoted, 8 5, 86, 87, 88 
Crab Apple, see Flowering Crab 
Croton, 186 
Crocus, 109 
Currant, 32 

Cydonia, japonica, 29, 31, 184 
Pyrus japonica 
Flowering Quince 
Cypress (climbing), 157 
Cypress, 24, 32 

Italian, 25, 28, 31, 178 
Arizona, 25, 28, 178 

Dahlias, 46, 96 
Daffodils, see Narcissi 
Daisy, 41, 65, 78, 97 
English, 180, 196 
Shaster, 196 

Damiana Mexicana, 186 
Daphne, 27, 31 
Datura, 83, 196 
Jimson Weed 

Day Lilies, see Hemerocallis 
Delphinium, 43, 45, 182 
Digitalis, 43 

Dicentra, Bleeding Heart, 78, 176, 206 
Dianthus, 41, 43, 44, 57, 96, 203 

barbatus. Sweet William, 44, 181, 186, 
203, 206 

Caryophyllus, Clove Pink, 180, 181 
Dog-toothed Violet, see Erythronium 
Dogwood, see Cornus 
Dry Wall, 201 
Dusty Miller, Artemesia, 79 


226 


INDEX 


Dutchman’s Pipe, 156, 157 
Deutzia, 24, 31, 32, 177 
gracilis, 26,27 

Dwarf Chestnut (Aesculus octandra), 34 

Elder, 31, 79 
Elaeagnus, 24, 206 
fruitlandi 

Elephant Ears (Caladium), 127 
Ephedra, 69 
Eryngium, 71, 77, 194 
Blue Thistle, illus., 194 
Erythrae Beyrichii, Mountain Pink, 195 
Erythronium, 63, 76, 109, 203, 205, 207 
Dog-toothed Violet 
Escholscholzia, 42, 5 5, 182, 204 
Eupatorium, see Ageratum 
Euphorbiaceae, 67 
Euphorbia, illus., 187 
corollata, 71 

marginata, Snow -on-the-Mountain, 71, 
79,196 

Euonymus, 28, 31, 32 

atropurpurea, Spindle Tree, 25, 34 
radicans, 61 

Exochorda, Pearl Bush, 24, 31 
Evolvulus, White Trumpet Vine, 62 

Fall-blooming plants, 84 
False Indigo, see Baptisia 
Feijoa, 32, 33 
Fern, Maidenhair, 67 

Cheilanthes tormentosa, 67 
Fertilizers, see Soil 
Feverfew, 44 
Foliage Plants, 83 
Four o’Clocks, 56, 194 
Foxglove, 43, 91 

Flowering Almond, 31, 32, 78, 177 
Flowering Cherry, 26, 27, 28 
Flowering Crab, 26, 28, 29, 31, 32 
Flowering Peach, 26, 28, 31, 78, 177 
Flowering Plum, 28, 31, 177 
Flowering Quince, see Cydonia japonica 
Flowering Willow, Desert Willow, 31, 3 5, 
177, 193 

Forsythia, 24, 31, 32, 76, 194 
Fringe Tree, see Chionanthus 

Gaillardia, Indian Blanket, 42, 44, 66, 71, 
77, 97, 196, 206 
Galanthus, Snowdrops, 78, 109 
Gardenia, 32 
Garden of Blue, 82 
Garden of Fragrance, 83 
Garden of Lavender, 83 
Garden of Orange, 81 
Garden of Rose or Red, 82 
Garden of White, 81 


Gay Feather, or Blazing Star, see Liatris 
Gazania, 43 
Gentian, 67 

Genista, Broom, 26, 31, 76, 85, 117 
Gerberia, 43, 206 

Gill-over-the-ground, Creeping Charlie, 59, 
180, 202, 207 

Gilliam, R. A., Quoted, 28, 29 
Ginkgo, Maidenhair Tree, 25, 31 
Gladioli, 77, 78, 182, 197 
Glaucium, Horned Poppy, 41 
Globe Amaranth, 90 
Gourds, 157 

Goldenglow, see Rudbeckia 
Grape Hyacinth, see Muscari 
Grease wood, 193 
Grevillea, Silk Oak, 31 
Ground Covers, 127, 158, 198, 202 
Ground Myrtle, see Vinca Minor 
Gypsophila, Baby’s Breath, 43, 78 

Halepensis Pine, 32 
Halesia, 31 

Hawthorn (Red Haw), see Crataegus 
Hedges, 20, 196 
Evergreen, 30 
Flowering, 28 
Rose, 29, 149, 159 
Cactus, 190 
Helenium, 194 

Hoopesii, 41, 43, 183; autumnale, 42 
Heliopsis, 43, 76, 197 
Helianthus, 76, illus., 194 
multiflorus, 43; mollis, 72 
Maximiliatii, Sunflowers, 72, 197 
Hemerocallis, Daylilies, 41, 43, 76, 106, 119 
124, 125, 161, 181, 182, 206 
Herbs 

Herbs for seasoning, 83 
Medicinal Herbs, 83, 188 
Hibiscus, 32, 43 

Hollyhocks, 42, 43, 78, 182; annual, 56 
Holly, Winterberry, ’Possum Haw, see Ilex 
Honeysuckle, see Lonicera 
Hypericum, St. Johns-Wort, 27, 43, 205 
Hydrangea, 32, 43, 206 
Hyacinth, 109, 180 

Ilex, Holly, Youpon 

decidua (Evergreen), 31, 34, 3 5 
vomitoria, 31, 34 
Ink, or Gallberry, 53 
Ipomoea, 59, 90 

Bush Morning Glory, 34, 90 
Japanese Morning Glories, 77 
Mexican Morning Glory, 59, 61 
Dwarf White, 60 
Moon Vine, 79, 59 


INDEX 


227 


Iris, 76, 77, 78, 97, 131, 141, 181, 205 
Classification, 131, 141 
Culture, 152 
Dwarfs, 13 3 
Intermediates, 13 3, 134 
Tall Bearded, 134 
Varieties, 13 5, 136 
In Arid Regions, 136 
Beardless Iris, 137 
Ochroleuca, 137, 142 
Siberica, 13 8, 141, 142 
Spuria, 142 
Special, 13 8 

Kaempferi-Japanese Iris, 13 8, 144 
Evansia (Crested), 139, 145 
Regelia, 139 v 

Ongocyclus, 139 
Pogocyclus, 139 
Bulbous, 145 

Spanish, Dutch, English, 139, 145, 146 
Ismene calathina, Peruvian Daffodil, 127 
Ivy 

English, 59, 179, 202 
Boston, 59 

Jack Bean, Dolichios, 60 
Jasmine, 31, 59, 61, 206 
humile, 77 

nudiflorum (Early), 31, 32, 61, 177 
Star, 32, 78, 81; Cape, 84 
Grand Duke, 32 
Confederate (Carolina), 83 
Jimson Weed, see (Datura) 

Jerusalem Thorn, see Parkinsonia 
Jonquils, see Narcissi 
Juniperus, 24, 27, 31, 178 

virginiana (Red Cedar), 28, 3 5 
lucayana (Southern Red Cedar, blue ber¬ 
ries), 178 

virginiana reptans, 3 5, 178 

Kerria, 24, 2 5, 31, 32 

japonica (single), 26, 177 
Kochia, 5 8, 78 
Kolkwitzia 

amabilis, Beauty Bush, 24, 31, 196 
Kudsu Vine, 59, 61 

Lantana, 31, 3 5, 42, 77, 97, 194, 197 
Trailing, 60, 61, 77, 198 
Laburnum, Golden Chain, 31, 196 
Lady Slippers, Cypripediums, 53 
Larkspur, 42, 5 5, 56, 182 
Lathyrus, Perennial Pea, 44, 61, 179 
Laurel (Mountain), 53 
Laurestinus, Viburnum, 31 
Lemon Verbena, 32 


Lespedeza prairea, Bush Clover, 3 5 
Leucophyllum, texanum, Barometer plant, 
77, 193 

Senisa, or Wild Lilac, 3 5, 75 
Liatris, Gay Feather, 44, 67, 77, 194, 197 
punctata, 63, 72 

Ligustrum, 28 

Lilac (Syringa), 2 5, 26, 31, 32, 177 
Lilies 

Atamasco, Copper Lily, 64 
Guernsey Lily, see Nerine 
Hybranthus, 82, 111, 130, 287 
Madonna (Lilium Candidum), 107, 119, 
182 

Nerine (Spider Lily) 

Guernsey Lily, 78, 107, 123 
Native Lilies, 64 
Rain Lilies (Cooperia), 78, 124 
Regale Lily, 78 
Speciosum Lilies, 118 
Umbellatum Lilies, 107, 118 
Culture, 120 

Preparation of Soil, 121 
How to Plant, 121, 123, 128 
Propagation, 122, 123 
Notes, 120 
Liriope, 127 
Lobelia, Cardinal Flower 
cardinalis, 72, 79, 205 
splendens, 67 

Loniceras, Honeysuckle, 59 
fragrantissima, 31 
Belgian, 32 
Maacki (Asiatic), 28 
Bush, 34, 26, 32 

Lupinus texensis, 65, 72, 79, 85, 203 
Texas Bluebonnet 
Lytheum roseum, 39, 41, 44 
Loosestripe 

Madeira Vine, 61 
Magnolia, 32, 79, 177 
Mahonia, Oregon-Grape, 24, 28, 31, 178, 
183, 206 

Berber is nervosa, 29, 32 
Aquifolia, 29 
Maple, Red-leafed, 2 5 
Marigolds, 42, 57, 77, 183, 197 
Melia, Umbrella Tree, 3 5 
Michaelmas Daisy, see Asters 
Mesquite, see Acacia 
Miniature Garden Designs, 21 
Mimosa (Sensitive Plant), 60, 62, 198 
Mint Family, see Salvias 
Mimosa, 26, 31, 195 

Mistletoe, 187, Okla. State Flower, illus., 12 


228 


INDEX 


Monarch, illus., 187 

purpurea, 39, 41, 44, 196 
didyma, Bee Balm, 41, 44 
Morning Glories, see Ipomoea 
Montbretias, 110 
Mullein, Moth, 186, illus., 187 
Muscari, Grape Hyacinth, 77, 109, 180 
Mugo-pine, 27 

Myrtle, see Vinca, Swamp, 32 

Nandina, 24, 25, 31, 178, 183, 206 

Narcissus, 80, 105, 106, 110, 111, 112, 180 

Nasturtiums, 42, 57 

Nepta Mussini, English Catnip, 182 

Native Bulbs and Tubers, 63 

Native Iris, 64, 13 8, 153 

Native Plants (List of), 65-74 

Native Shrubs, 33, 3 5 

Native Vines, 62 

Ocotillo, 190 

Oenothera, 44, 76, 198, 203 

Evening Primrose Family Group, 71 
Ophiopogon japonica, 127 

Painted Leaf (Poinsettia), annual, 56 
Palmetto, 31, 32 
Pansies, 42, 77, 180, 184 
Parkinsonia aculeata, Jerusalem Thorn, 26, 
35, 177, 193 

Passion Flower (Passiflora), 60, 62, 77, 197 
Paths, 201 

Pavonia, Rose Mallow, 3 5 
Pearl Bush, see Exochorda 
Penstemon, 44, 182 

Cobaea, Wild Canterbury Bells, Beard- 
Tongue, 67, 73, 77 
grandifolia, 67 
Peonies, 41, 44, 45 
Perennial Pea, see Lathyrus 
Perennials, 39 to 55 
Persimmon, 31 

Petunias, 44, 5 5, 77, 79, 183, 198 
Philadelphus (Syringa), 24, 31 
Phlox, Drummondi, 66, 68, 73, 191 
Phlox, 39, 42, 44, 55, 56, 66, 68, 73, 182, 
184, 203, 205 
divaricata, 206 
pilosa, 73 
subulata, 206 
Mesoleuca, 67 
Photinia, 24, 31 
Phygelius (Cape Fuchsia), 44 
Physostegia, False Dragonhead 

virginiana, 41, 42, 44, 73, 77, 183, 206 
intermedia, 73 
Pinks, see Dianthus 
Pitcher Plants, 53 


Pittosporum, 24 
Plant Enemies, 215, 216 
Remedies, 217, 218 
Mildew, 219 
Root-rot, 219 
Blight, 219 

Insects and Scale, 220, 221 
Platycodon grandiflorum, 44, 196 
Plumbago, 77, 97 

Larpentae, capensis, 79, 203, 182, 184, 
176 

Poinciana, Bird-of-Paradise, 26, 31, 32, 34, 
77, 177, 193 

Poinsettia havanensis, 3 5, 78 
Pomegranate (Punica), 26, 32, 177, 193 
Poppies, 42, 57, 78, 183 
Oriental, 182 

Argemone alba, White Prickly Poppy, 
Mexican, 70, 196 
Portulaca, 78, 183, 197 
Primroses, see Oenothera 
Privet, 2 8, 31 
Japanese, 32 
Propagation 

Bulbels or bulblets, 91 
Cuttings, 27, 92, 93 
Division, 40, 91, 97 
Grafting, 94 
Layering, 40, 93 
Rhizomes, 91 
Runners, 91 

Seed, 55, 59, 85, 86, 88, 195 
Pools 

Location, 208, 213; Construction, 209 
Plants, 210 to 213 
Pruning 
Shrubs, 3 8 

Spring Flowering, 29, 38 
Fall Flowering, 29, 3 8 
Evergreens, 30, 37 

Roses, 152, 156, 157, 159, 161, 162, 164 
Prunus, 31, 32 
Pissardi, 2 5, 177 
Reverchon, 3 5 

Pussy Willow, 26, 31, 32, 177 
Pyracantha, Firethorn or Burning Bush 
Coccinea Laplandia, 24, 31, 32 
Pyrethrum, 41, 82, 97 
Pyrus japonica, see Cydonia japonica 

Queen Anne’s Lace, Wild Carrot, 187 
Queen’s Wreath, see Antigonon 

Ranunculas, 109 
Rattan Vine, 62 
Red Bud, see Cercis 
Red Cedars, see Juniperus 
Rhododendron, 23, 31, 53 


INDEX 


229 


Rhus (Sumac), 25, 31, 32, 35, 78, 178, 193 
Rose Acacia, Robinia, 24, 2 5, 31 
Rosemary, 24, 182 
Rose Mallow, see Pavonia 
Roses 

Soil Preparation, 171; Fertilization, 172 
Cultivation, 172, 173; Planting, 170 
Shrub-roses, 28, 149, 152 
Specie, 67, 150 
Old-fashioned Varieties, 150 
Semi-climbers, 151 
Rugosas, 149 
Briers, 151 

Polyanthas, 33, 159, 160, 204 
Bush or Bedding Roses, 160 
Teas, 162 

Hybrid-teas, 162, 163 
Hybrid Perpetuals, 160 
Pernetiana, 165 
Single, 161 

Climbing Roses, 152, 179, 204 
Hardy Climbers, 15 3 
Tender Climbers, 154 
Ramblers, 155 
Pillar Roses 

Diseases, 168, 169; Enemies, 169, 217 
How to know a good bush, 174 
Illustrations 

Wild Rose Spray, 1 

Moss Rose, 150 

Hybrid Sweetbrier, 152 

Climbing New Dawn, 153 

Hugonis (Shrub), and Tree Rose, 159 

Paul Neron, 160 

Single Hybrid Tea, Innocence, 161 
Persian Yellow, Austrian, 165 
Hybrid Teas, Pres. Hoo-ver and Pernet 
Ville de Paris, 167 
Rosa foliolosa, 204 
Rosa Hugonis, 26 
Rudbeckia, 196 

Golden Glow, 42, 44 
purpurea, 44, 73 

Salvias (Sage), 31, 32 
azurea, 42, 44, 182 
farinacea, 42, 44, 72, 186 
Pitcheri, 44, 67, 72 
leucantha, 42, 44, 183 
Greggii, 72 

Santolina, 32, 44, 203 
Sarsaparilla Vine, 179, 183 
Scabiosa, 44, 56, 182, 206 
Scilla, Squills, 108 
Sedum, 44, 78, 203 
Sempervivums, 203 

Senisa or Wild Lilac, see Leucophyllum 
Sesbania, Coffee Bean Tree, 3 5 


Shad Bush, see Amelanchier 
Shade, Plants for, 205, 206 
Shrubs 23 to 3 8 
Smilax, 32, 62 

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum, 39, 56, 78, 96, 
182 

Snowball, Viburnum, 32 
Snowflakes, Leucojum, 78, 109, 180 
Snow-on-the-Mountain, see Euphorbia 
Soil 

Acid Soil, 2, 4, 13, 14, 15, 53, 54 
Adobe Soil, 5; Alkaline Soil, 2, 6 
Alluvial Soil, 4 
Calcareous (Limestone) Soil 

Where found, 2, 6, 7;Treatment, 7 
Clay, 4; Loam, 3; Sand, 3 
Neutral Soil, 219; where found, 2, 13 
Preparation of Soil 

Acid-loving plants, 14, 5 5 
Areas, 88; Trenching, 15-171. 

Aquatic Plants, 209; Bulbs, 112 
Cactus, 198; Lilies, 156 
Perennials, 61, 62, 63, 66 
Seeds and Seedlings 
Fertilizers 

Manures, 10, 11, 49, 89 
Bonemeal, 9, 40, 46, 87 
For Acid-bed, 1 5 
Perennials, 40, 45, 46, 47, 49 
Roses, 172; Lilies, 12 5 
Proportion to use, 12 

Humus, 3; Leaf-mold, 3, 53; Sub-soil, 7; 
Top-soil, 7; Mulches, 8, 121, 198 
Drainage, 86, 202 

Hardwood Ashes, 5, 11, 54, 62, 70, 121 
Trees, 70 
Sawdust, 17, 70 

Solidago, Goldenrod, 73, 197 
Sophora, affinis, 26, 31, 195 
Sotols, see Yucca 
Spider Wort, see Tradescantia 
Spindle Tree (Euonymus atropureas), 
Wahoo Burning Bush, 31 
Spireas, 25, 31, 32, 78, 177, 194, 206 
Statice, 44, 194, 196 
Stephanandra, 31 
Stocks, 58 
Stokesia cyanea, 44 
Sumac, see Rhus 
Sunflowers, see Helianthus 
Sweet-bay, 53 
Sweet Peas, 77, 78 
Sweet Pepper Bush, see Clethra 
Sweet William, see Dianthus 
Symphoricarpus, 31 
albus Snowberry, 32 
vulgaris, Coral Berry, 32, 34 


230 


INDEX 


Syringa (Lilac), 25 

Philadelphia, 78, 206, Philadelphia vir- 
ginalis, 28; Philadelphia pubescens, 28 

Tamarix, Salt Cedar, 24, 25, 31, 193 
africana, 177 
Tecoma, stans , 27 
Teucrium, 27 

Texas Plume (Gilia rubra), 73, 77, 79, 182 
Thermopsis, caroliana, 44; montana, 41 
Tiger Lilies 

Thunbergia, Blackeyed Susan, 196 
climbing, 62, 63, 198 
Trachelium, 41 

Tradescantia, virginiana, 74; humilis, 74 
Triteleias, 180 
Tropical effects, 84 
Tulips, 77, 78, 112, 180, 181 
Varieties, 113, 114 
Tuberose, 83; Varieties, 12 5 

Valerian, 41, 44 

Verbenas, 42, 109, 5 5, 77, 97, 198 
Veronica, 44, 182, 196 
Viburnum, 24, 25, 28, 31, 32, 206 
Opulus (Snowball), 32 
prunifolium (Black Haw), 34 
Vinca Minor (Ground Myrtle), 59, 180, 
197, 206 


Violets, 180, 203, 205 
Viola, missouriensis, 63; Rafinesque Hearts¬ 
ease, 63 

Virginia Creeper, 60 
Vitex, 25, 31, 32, 178, 193 


Yarrow, see Achillea 
Yews, 24, 28, 31 
Japanese, 31 

Yuccas, 31, 78, 182, 189, 204 
Hesperaloe parviflora, 74, 182, 191 
Coral Yucca 

filamentosa, Adam’s Needles, 74, 191 
treculeana, Spanish Dagger, 74, 191 
Arkansana, 191 
Dasylirion Sotol, 74, 192 
elata, or glauca, 191 


Zephyranthes, 124 




Wallflower, 76, 184, 197, 203 
Waterlilies, 212, 213 
Weigela, 24, 26, 31, 78, 177 
Winter Protection, 97 
Wisteria, 59, 77, 8 5, 179, 181 
chinesis, 61; magnified, 61 
Wild Lettuce, Cow Thistle, 188 
Woodbine, 59, 60, 62, 179, 198 







































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Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 
Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: Oct. 2012 

PreservationTechnologies 

A WORLD LEADER IN COLLECTIONS PRESERVATION 

111 Thomson Park Drive 
Cranberry Township, PA 16066 
(724)779-2111 






























































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